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Well that worked brilliantly! I now have the rest of the evening to ponder why I couldn't have thought that out for myself. Thanks again for your very prompt help.

The problem lies on putting some one else's name on your product. You can build anything you want you have no right putting someone else's name on it.

Hi Guys this is a PDF supplied by Witchi explainging the mechanical watch, hope its of use Witschi Training Course.pdf

VWatchie, thank you ever so much for those videos. While I am quite satisfied with my new re-jeweling tool, it seems I am missing quite a few stumps. I see the size of the stump is quite significant, lest the mainplate no be held perpendicular to the pusher/reamer. I'm learning quite a lot here. I've taken all 3 or Marks courses, and am quite satisfied with the progress I'm making. It's guys like you who make the experience that much easier.

The one VW sent is it their other kinds besides seitz. hard to find complete without missing jewels, they also make a gauge that is the slide in type kinda like a mainspring gauge. It’s a metal plate with a slit in it and you take the pivot and slide it down till it stops and that will take you the pivot size and can gauge the jewel size needed. I have one but I don’t have it right now to send a picture.

Thank you kindly to both. Forgot to mention, I have a JKA Feintaster so I know the jewel ODs. If luck prevails, I'll have several correct OD jewels from which to choose, and I'll try the 3rd wheel in the pivot hole for side shake. I'm happy to hear that there's a bit more wiggle room with sideshake for the train wheels. And no, Saswatch88, the Seitz unit lacked a jeweled pivot sizer. But now this is something that I can look for--now knowing the name. I started a thread about a week ago about this. I was calling them pin gauges. The absolute smallest pin gauge I could find was .060", or 1.5mm, far too large for our work.

I've used all sorts of paper a high gloss photo paper printed on a inkjet does a good job of looking like an enamel dial. I use a canon inkjet there is a setting on it that puts more ink onto the paper for the blacks, Epson heavy weight matte paper is fantastic for non glossy printed dials it has a very fine surface finish to the paper.

I'm not an expert, but that is definitely what I would do!

So guessing the seitz set didn’t come with the jeweled pivot sizer. These are hard to come by. I would say trying anything you can to get the correct measurement will work if you don’t have the right measuring device. But i would say you could also measure the pivot with a digital caliper and If you had the matching wheel to each jewel on parts movements you could compare the pivot sizes but you already removed them all. And I would check end and side shakes after your selected jewel is installed. A little more play is allowed on the train then the balance or escapement.

Open the video in youtube and in the description field you will find a link to the "paper".

That is def a string of bad luck. Dont throw in the towel just yet. There are plenty of good people out there representing truthfully what they are selling. If you're ever unsure reach out to us. Id be happy to help. If you have anything that needs repair Id be happy to help with that as well. I have plenty of free time in my hands and do it for fun. I agree Paypal is def the way to go for resolution......they dont mess around. I spent a couple hours trying to find that rep hamilton for sale last night but have yet to locate it. I guess when you get down to a cheaper watch they arent made as reps per se but for the specific reason of being counterfeit and with the intent to defraud so I may not be able to locate it with the rep dealers I know. If I do I will let you know. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Remember that you also have you Credit Card protection (if you paid with that), and nothing can prevent you from filing a claim at any time. It comes to PayPal as a the dreaded "charge back", and gets them moving real fast to recoup money and refund the buyer. No need to submit any proof like "expert assessment", etc. Of course the item must be returned with traceable shipping.

The spring inside a springbar can work .

Here is my humble collection of Fob watches over the years as fr Nineteen seventies.

I see ,yes you are right , I have come across this a few times and have found that if you have a heavy duty case holder screwed to a bench top it gives you 2 free hands to try different options such as using a screw driver around the edge twisting it whist turning with the case back gently gripped in multigrips with a piece of thin cloth for protection and work your way around .It will come off

Hes got 3 items listed from what I see. He doesnt appear to be knowingly selling fakes as gens. He probably got duped and doesnt want to admit it. Ebay should take care of you. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I was gonna say give the person who sold it to you the benifit of the doubt that they themselves thought it was real. Ebay will take care of you. If you need help providing the evidence let me know but you should be able to return it regardless........just say youre unsatisfied and you shouldnt have to say why. If theyre smart they will accept the return unless they are the scum I was referring to that are in fact giving the rep game a bad name by trying to pass off reps as gens. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

also, there was a shim under the balance cock. SO; it must have been a half ass job by an amature. vin

Def a fake there are many on eBay, ou will def get your money back just open a case against the seller

Rep is replica. I dont have an issue at all with reps as long as they are advertised as such. The places I get my reps from advertise them as reps and I have found that many are of high quality. Its when people try and pass them as genuine where we get into an issue. Quite frankly high end makers dont even really care about reps......Rolex for instance the rep industry has virtually zero affect on there bottom line as a person who is going to spend 18k vs 350 bucks.....its two separate markets and one doesnt impact the other. I seriously doubt a person ever said ohhhhh instead of spending the 18k why not just spend the 350. Im sure there are some negative impacts but imagine they are negligible. My wife has a couple gen rolexs and quite honestly I dont see the 10k plus variance in cost. The rep market is huge and when I got into it I was quite surprised at the extent of it. There are also the Franken watches where they are a mix of gen parts and rep parts. There are many hobbiest that are heavy into this as well. Like I said above the laser etching on the movement appears to be that of the clone varient. Rest assured though they will correct it. I have a Rolex submariner that is a rep that I can gurantee the vast majority of the folks on here would not be able to tell that its a rep. The rep makers are getting very very good at their craft and a good rep can easily set you back 1k all day. Im sure Ill get a lot of heat for this comment but at the end of the day its still a watch and as long as its known up front and theres no deciet in it then I just dont see the big deal. There are assholes out there that will buy a rep and try to pass it off knowingly as a gen. Not sure if thats what the case is here but you always half to be on the lookout. I have in fact seen this model on rep sites. For me a Hammy really isnt worth repping. A gen watch that retails for less than 5k probably isnt worth it.......but there are reps of virtually every make and model out there. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Has the HS broken off from the stud? Is there a small length of HS still in the stud? Is so, if you reattach then the length will change. So regulating may be difficult. Plus the terminal curve will need adjusting so it’s between the regulating pins. It’s a tough repair. Dynamic poising may help correct for the too short HS. But to be honest, replacing the balance assembly might be easier.

Welcome Michael to the forum, follow watchies advice and enjoy your self.

I've used Gimp quite a lot for flat dials, just scan the original and edit out the defects, the beauty of this you can lay the new dial over the top of the old, so if in the future you decide you want a dial restorer to work on it you have preserved it for future restoration. You can print on off white paper or card to make the dial look aged.

Miraculously, I found the two parts that went pinging off. Both were installed inside a ziploc baggie to ensure no repeat pingings! Thank you for the advice @watchweasol

You could try to take a picture of it and edit (removing the dirt and to make it 1 to 1) it in GIMP for example then you could use the same technique what Mark used in his video: I am not sure how difficult it would be to find a spare dial to use that for the experiment and not the original one. I also like the original as it is.

40mm maximum for me, with my skinny wrists that's pretty big. 38mm is perfect for me in a modern watch. In vintage, my favorite is the Bulova "23" from the fifties. These guys were pretty small, 33-34 mm usually, but at the time smallness was an indicator of "high tech" and elegance. It's nice wearing a watch that doesn't clang around on the wrist. Maybe I should move to pocket watches :-)

Just 'discovered' the early Timex electrics, I've got five up and running now (Model 40 and derivatives), currently waiting for this rather novel example to arrive... seems a bit scarce, cant find anything about it on the internet, just pictures of two other examples, one chrome and the other gold..

I think it depends on the size of your hands and arms and the work you do!

Hi Having worked on a few of the big jobs it seems the ones I got were just big dials with a Miyota 2030/35 movement driving the hands. Ostensibly fashion watches although some were mechanical again with a big dial, like you I prefer the smaller ones that fit snug

You would need to remove the calendar mechanism to reveal the click. I’ve added a photo again showing the brass plate removed. You can then release the mainspring tension using the crown as normal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I may not quite understand what you're asking as far as I know with most hairsprings the regulator pins or as the Swiss call them curb pins should be as close as possible to the hairspring without grabbing. Then the problem of specifically where did I get my information from is far too many sources too many years so as you're asking for an exact specific I grabbed a book from the shelf. The book is titled Watch Adjustmentv by Hans Jendritzki. I've scanned the relevant paragraph and attached the images.

I tried to go through paypal but it just referred me to ebay's resolution center. Paypal must require items bought on ebay to first go through ebay. In any case, I have to wait until 1/8 until ebay will begin pursuing the return. Thanks for the comments. I will say this, I recently renewed an old interest in wristwatches, having purchased a dozen or so vintage pieces about 20 years ago. I have bought 6 watches in the last 6 months. I have had issues with 5 of them: I bought a rather cheap Ingersoll chronograph that had a telemeter which turned out to be cosmetic (the watch wasn't really a chronograph- the pushers just changed the date represented with the small hands and did not time anything); a Swiss Army chrono that arrived broken; a Hamilton chrono that arrived broken; a Citizen chrono from Germany that never arrived; and now this fake Hamilton. Maybe I am cursed.