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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. check each as old hippy said but end shakes on a 3rd wheel allow a lot more play than lets say a balance or escape. you can get away with too much end shake and not loose much amplitude, too little will def not work though and will def result in a very low amp and or stop the movement. train wheels being loose is always better than too tight in my opinion
  2. its farfo.com dont put the www. or just google farfo vintage watches ridgewood nj. archer is a memeber on teh Watchuseek forums and is very good esp when it comes to high end watches like omega. he is a certified omega repairer, not many of those around. he uses the same equipment they uses at the omega facilities. 100,000s worth of equipment
  3. research IWW international watch works - you ship the watch to him but prepare to wait a few months, he is really good and does not work on chronos. sometimes you have to ship a watch to get the best service. there is also a guy in my state NJ. Farvo.com. he does a lot of vintage watches and restorations. but he does have high end watches on his site. I used him from an old 40s breitling chronomat
  4. ok just checked i only have hands up to 12s. plus no sub seconds. here are some listings for full sets, different styles, with free shipping outside the US. There are more sets available from the same seller just type waltham 16s hands in ebay search https://www.ebay.com/itm/XF-COND-WALTHAM-16S-ORIG-RR-BOLD-BLUE-MATCHED-WHIP-HANDS-VANGUARD-CRESCENT-ST/283525664560?hash=item4203724f30:g:AmAAAOSwTxhdD88K https://www.ebay.com/itm/XXXF-COND-WALTHAM-16S-ORIG-RR-BOLD-BLACK-MATCHED-WHIP-HANDS-VANGUARD-CRESCENT-ST/283520578164?hash=item420324b274:g:4esAAOSwPdhdCRGD https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINT-COND-BALL-WALTHAM-16S-ORIG-FANCY-PLUM-MATCHING-WHIP-HANDS-ALL-DRESS-RR-B-Ws/312665711411?hash=item48cc542333:g:ZxsAAOSwdUVdC9-c
  5. yes get the serial number and look it up on pocketwatchdatabase.com. its not always accurate but it will let you know the model, size, and will show images of the movement and cases as well. i have the official waltham pocket watch ID and price guide from 1976, which is 100% accurate. so get that serial # and post it
  6. sorry to tell you but you cant buy these hands from suppliers. Ebay is the way to go but try searching based on movement size instead of hole size you will get more results. plus shipping should not be too much since most sellers participate in the global shipping program which allows you to ship an item to any country outside the US for the same cost as within. The items gets shipped to an exchange center in Kentucky where they ship the item to the destination country, its great because the exchange gives you a separate tracking number once it leaves their warehouse, and the shipping time is pretty much the same. I however may have some hands, i can list them on ebay for only the postage charge and this way ill ship using the GSP, which probably be like $7. what is the size of the movement? If i dont have them i can send a link to some ebay listings
  7. you can get a 7s26 for $25 complete and running on ebay
  8. 1. As weasol said your problem with balance indicates an end shake problem due to a broken/bent staff pivot and/or issue with shock system. But you mentioned its a new balance so iam pretty sure its not OEM and is an aftermarket balance most likely for an NH35 chinese knock off of the 7002. These parts notoriously DO NOT mesh well with original seiko movements. They also come from the factory with major imperfections, I have seen flakes of skin under the balance cap jewel in these things. Best to find an oem or parts movement with a good balance and staff. But this could also be a problem with power reserve and the mainspring, you already stated in another post you had issues with this so i would look into that as well by checking the "action" of the pallet fork. remove the balance and (ever so gently) touch the pallet fork's safety pin with tweezers or preferably a paint brush with a couple bristols left on it, the fork should snap quickly and smoothly back and forth without any force. you should not have to push it or apply force in any way. if it seems sluggish in any direction or you have to push on it to get it to snap then that tells you that you are loosing power somewhere from the Mainspring through the train, or even the mainspring itself. 2. date wheel slipping could be the loss of the yoke spring, the jumper is all one piece on a metal plate so highly doubt you lost that, but check to make sure jumper isnt bent or broken anyway. but my best guess is you lost the yoke spring on disassembly since they sometimes fly of when removing the date wheel under spring tension. this is very common in seiko movements. and yoke springs are always for sale on ebay, and are almost the same throughout most seiko movements. 3. Grinding is basically what weasol said it was. 4. if hands are bent i dont agree with weasol to use stroking action for that may warp the hands and/or remove lume. the best way is to heat a pair of smooth shank pliers or wide flat shank tweezer and press the hand in between them tightly, the heat will soften the metal and flatten it straight within seconds but this will also melt off any lume on the hands. i would wedge it between two (small) hard flat pieces of metal clamp it down firmly with a small C-clamp and leave it over night. thats the fail proof way since it will preserve the lume.
  9. I work a lot on seikos and old hippy is right, for the 70XX series you can buy the MS and barrel separate now and i have never seen them sold complete. but good servicing practice is to replace the MS, esp if its been 3+ years since the last service. breaking grease is a must, i only use 8217 on manual winds. kluber makes an excellent breaking grease but cost about $65 a worthy investment if plan on working on more automatics. I dont however agree with hippy on using breaking grease on the spring, i havent heard of this before and i would imagine could decrease your amplitude, but then again old hippy knows his stuff so i could be wrong here. also i recommend using a MS winder for sure, you can easily warp an MS when hand winding it, and that could also cause a decrease in wind down time and amp. clean the mainspring with a dry cleaner or ultrasonic, the only time you should stretch is when applying the grease. as far as sanding goes never done it and never plan to but thats not to say it wont work.
  10. difficult without practice. steady hands are a must. Iam an avid seiko collector and reluming an original dial is sacrilege. Collectors of seikos like me will pay 100s more for original patina lume dial. I suggest you leave it be or just buy an aftermarket dial
  11. i suggest you DO NOT try and re-solder the dial it is not an easy task and if you dont have extensive soldering experience you will just damage the dial even more to where it will no longer lay flat on the movement. you can take it to a jeweler to do this. as far as getting a new dial. Seiko does not sell dials individually but there are plenty of aftermarket dials for the 7002, but if you are a stickler for original you can buy a parts watch or there are sellers from phillipines that sell used 7002 dials but most are pretty beat up and nice ones do just as much as parts watch so mine as well go with that. another great site is speedtimerkollektion just type that in the google search to get to their site. There is a good chance your dial may be aftermarket if it already is than just get the AM dial for $15
  12. I Live in US and i guess you are right, there really is nothing out here besides moebius, they completely cornered the market. there are other lubricants I use besides moebius and thats kluber for automatic mainspring breaking its betetr than moebius and actually cost alot more. other than that i use molykote for metal to metal friction grease. as far as the wide variety i dont believe its for marketing at all because each oil has a specific purpose and even if they make 5 oils for the same purpose they all have different properties, such as viscosity which some prefer different viscosities for different types, sizes or brand movements. I.E. 9010 and 9415 are made for the same purpose, but 9010 is an oil 9415 is a grease but liquifies into oil when there is friction. This gives that type of lubricant excellent anti spreading quality and eliminates the use of epilame on the escapement. some moebius oils will have two versions of the same oil one will have fluorescent tracers in them so they can be seen under UV light. Comes in handy when trying to see how much oil you applied, and knowing if you applied too much. so def. not a gimmick each oil is engineered to give the watch maker as much versatility as possible in the ever expanding technologies in watch making
  13. 1. NO. You need to brush all the spokes and leaves of the train wheels. Peg the jewel holes not just rub them if thats what you are doing. Use rodico after the ultrasonic to sop up any residue. 2 + 3. Yes way better results using LR or Zenith ultrasonic cleaning products, No residue ( rinse is needed), makes the movement shine like new. It can be filtered and reused. It will cost a $100 total for a gallon of the cleaner and rinse and will last you at least a year depending on how often you service movements. Esp since they come in bottles that wont let the solution go bad. if you dont want to spend the money start using Ronsonol Lighter fluid. but use rodico on everything after the cleaning. Your Machine is fine, i know a lot of pros that do everything manually by hand. the old fashioned way with no cleaning machines.
  14. Never heard of augusta oils but i wouldnt use anything other than moebius unless there is another watch oil made or specified by the watch's manufacturer.
  15. YEA I adjusted mine and now its good
  16. the 532 was limited production for the military, only a few thousand pieces made, and they were only made for the marines with the white dial. If you google search USMC elgin 532 you will see it. I have seen black dial versions but I believe they were for civilian use. The watch was quickly replaced with the 539 since the 532 was a non hacking movement. The 539/ and other A-11 movements started the whole military hacking movement wave. It has since been the standard for any military watch.
  17. did not think of that. great will try this out and update the post
  18. Citizens dont always yield the best amplitudes but none the less 180-200 is still too low - if both movements were serviced with no broken jewels or excess wear and they both dont have good amp then like any experiment we have to see what was the constant here. The barrel and mainspring right, so an educated guess would say there lies your problem. This is the beauty of having two movements to work with. I know you posted on this before about ordering a new mainspring and barrel, and if i recall the one that was pulled was a stronger strength than the OEM one. Then there was an issue with breaking grease, correct me if iam wrong here. I would say this: It was very common for old watchmakers to replace mainsprings with one that had a higher strength to account for amplitude issues due to wear, i work on old pocket watches and you will find that there are mainsprings designed for the same movement with usually 3-4 different strengths available from the factory. When I service a 50-100 year old movement i replace it with a mainspring that is at least 2/100th stronger than what was in there originally. try that, if that dont work then my next guess would be the hairspring, they too wear down and loose strength over the years, but a stronger MS should help with that as well but how much in your case i wouldnt know.
  19. I have an Elgin 532 produced from 39-44. It’s a non hacking military movement which was the predecessor of the 539. I serviced the movement, and reassembled. Watch ticks great but second hand is very jittery it doesn’t sweep as it should. Center wheel and pinion looked fine. I also made sure sweep bridge screw was tightened. The second hand is secured to the pinion, it’s not loose at all. When it ticks I can see the center wheel turning smoothly so I can’t understand why the hand would act like it’s loose. And last but not least the hand is not hitting anything it’s acts the same way out of the case and is spaced well enough away from the minute hand any ideas?
  20. you can buy a vintage pallet setter off ebay for $15
  21. automatic oilers definitely help when it comes to oiling but you can do the same job with regular oilers. its like driving a mercedes instead of a chevy they will both get you where your going but one will be a smoother ride because there is more bells and whistles. Personally I agree with clockboy with only the 1A really being worth it. I like it because it makes servicing quicker, guarantees correct oil amount, and fits perfectly in jewel holes. Not to mention keeping the oil safe from contamination.
  22. oh yea thats a vintage movement and cases are not available aftermarket. but you can find a parts citizen and use the case
  23. not sure but seems like you have to measure the diameter and collet bore, then select material. My concern would be the stud, guessing you have to attach the old stud to the new spring. seems like too much of a hassle. there are plenty of working movements on ebay for $30 or less. I have two of them if you need one
  24. yea i get that but would be nice to see a how to video
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