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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. Yes you should and makes no point in doing testing on parts and movements if they haven’t been cleaned, inspected, and serviced
  2. Did you properly clean/lube the arbor prior to testing?
  3. You can buy aftermarket hands pushers and springs all over ebay they work fine. I also found a couple movement rings as well not sure these use the spring type spacers found on the 6139s. I have one but never opened it up. The glass will be very difficult i think you can use one from a 6139 which i know spencer klein makes them. You can ask if they are compatible Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. God i hate when that happens
  5. - Air purifier -stay away from open doors, windows, ac vents, fans, pretty much anything that can cause a draft. -use trays with covers to store parts before re assembling. When assembling put a clear plastic bag over the movement or buy a clear plastic storage container big enough to cut holes into the side for your arms to slip in.
  6. Did you fully wind it or was it already fully wound? If it was already then it could be the mainspring, or it could be the balance staff, or both. Not to mention many other potential Robles’s but those are the usual suspects. I suggest you remove the movement and start making your checks.
  7. YESSS very important! Great input MK. this is why i never rely on machinery I have a timegrapher, but always do the slow motion video, i actually have a video editing software where i have all the geometry mapped out. I import the video under the template and when i slow it down i can see the amplitude very precisely.
  8. its a big difference when dealing with split wheels with weights,
  9. Maybe iam using the wrong nomenclature but..... Yes if the roller/ jewel is turned too far it will slip out of the fork causing the balance to stop And fork will stay banked to one side and escapement will lock up. And as you stated a fine adjustment “1 degree” that should be the Margain of error, but if a hairspring is not aligned well prior to assembly it will take much more than just a 1 degree adjustment to get everything to work right. The point iam trying to make is to get everything lined up as close as possible before attaching everything, checking pallet entry and draw with power on prior to installing a balance that has already been adjusted is also good practice. i went way too far into it with angles and geometry but it does play a big part in understanding how to diagnose issues with the escapement and what would need adjusting to solve it.
  10. This is an old pocket watch so issues with banking pins can 100% be the issue i have seen it more often than not on old movements. Bent or previously moved. I would say damage to the pallet jewels if anything but i have seen loose jewels. you can make adjustments to the roller/jewel after attachment, but its not ideal. Going by the collet is best and I have the tool but this procedure is done with hairspring attached to the wheel but not the cock, and hence “making the adjustment before attaching the balance and spring” which is how i should have worded it. These pocket watch balance wheels are split and have weights and the jewel should rest at 90 degrees between the arms, having the roller turned too far to one side to compensate a misaligned stud can actually cause the jewel to slip out of the fork and lock the escapement. If the amp is at 270 degrees ideally then it should be equal on both ends in relationship to the arms esp. on a split wheel.
  11. Double post i realized i said 30 degrees but to be actual it should be 60 degrees. This is very tricky stuff and hard to translate to an actual escapement, but with high magnification and a good eye it can be done without any actual measuring.
  12. Yes guard pin I call it safety pin. A diagram would be better to illustrate what i mean. But when pallet rest on the left bank it should measure the same degree as the other side. Looking at the escapement from the top if you where to draw a half a circle with 90 degree point at center of balance pivot jewel the “guard pin” should run a path of lets say 30 degree then it should be at +15 degrees at one bank and -15 degree on other bank equal on both sides.
  13. This is a typical benrus case they been making these since the 40s. You have to remove the crystal using a brass jaw type crystal remover. Once it’s out you have to separate the split stem. I could explain how to do it but a video is much easier and there are plenty out there. Just do a search on the net “ how to remove a split stem” and there is a tutorial on Esslinger.com on how to use the crystal remover. https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-crystal/?_ga=2.79089757.839292711.1581400550-1065094695.1581400550 what i will suggest is to use a wire cutting plier and go from the outside of the case not between the movement and the case to avoid damage. Do not pry just allow the tapered shanks of the pliers to pull it as you close down. You may need to do pull it a bit yourself just make sure you pull straight don’t wiggle or pry. It may take some force so don’t be shy with it. do not push on the crystal and remove crystal before separating the stem
  14. ok considering the impulse jewel is dead center between banking pins 3things you should check: 1. Pallet. Check the lock and draw of the pallet stones is a must when changing balance staff, improper lock will cause a beat error. the tooth of the escape wheel should lock no more 1/3 of the way onto the pallet stone and the draw angle should be the same on both stones. Make sure pallet jewels are not chipped, damaged, or loose. In this case pallet jewels may need to be adjusted. 2. Banking Pins. the safety pin should rest at same angle of degree from the center of the balance pivot jewel on both banks. If the left or right banking pin is allowing the pallet to rest at a higher or lower angle from one banking pin to the other, banking pins will need to be adjusted. I see this to be the case with a lot of pocket watches since in some cases during the watches history a watchmaker will adjust banking pins due to misaligned jewels. Its a quick fix to get a watch running but does not help with accuracy. 3. Hairspring Stud. Did you replaced the hairspring? if so it needs to be vibrated or the spring coils could not be concentric. Did you adjust the roller after or before attaching the balance to the spring? You have to mark the location of the stud on the balance wheel first. You should make all your alignments with balance wheel and cock installed without hairspring. Then while holding the balance wheel with impulse jewel in perfect center of the pins you lay the spring on top of the cock to mark the location of the stud on the wheel. If you did not do this the stud could be in the wrong location, and any adjustments to the impulse jewel after balance being attached will just cause more beat error.
  15. Is it me or do i see some carbs on that bench. Those cases should come with tabs to space it correctly. Iam guessing the kit didn’t come with any? It does look like the movement ring is made to accommodate a tension wire ring which will not help you here. One thing you can do that will be easier than pressing a wire in the case would be to swap out the crystal to higher domed crystal. Did the case come with a sapphire glass or mineral?
  16. Look for mainspring that has metric size on package but most should have both Dennison and metric like Samson springs.
  17. Don’t use alcohol on pallets and balance if you do just dip then dry, but it’s good for a final rinse. A dry cleaner which is used for electrical is best for balance and fork it’s safe on shellac. For cleaning I like naphtha just make sure you dry it quickly preferably with heated air like a blow dryer it will leave less residue. Get some pegwood and nylon brushes to do some hand cleaning. Also rodico is a must have for cleaning pinions wheels and sopping up excess oil.
  18. that is true... this caliber had a version with 2 cap jewels for the escape, which is why i think someone must have had their hands in it before replacing the wrong escape wheel. Which would explain why this would be happening before the OP touched it. You can find these AS movements all over the bay. Same parts are interchangeable from one caliber to the next. i would try sourcing a parts movement before messing with jewels and pivots. The ranfft link below will list similar calibers. After doing an ebay search there plenty of 1187 watches, movements, and parts available since it happened to be a very popular movement during the time. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1187
  19. Its Sweep Seconds movement Cal. 12.68N. Used In Longines military watches during wwii. Maybe your not seeing the 12 it may be hidden by the balance cock or wheel. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Longines_12_68N
  20. how was it behaving before you dis-assembled it? if it was the same then it could be any number of things, wrong jewels replaced, wrong escape wheel, jewels inserted wrong, bent bridge etc. if it started after you touched it then it may be something you did, but just to understand it runs fine without cap jewels installed? Dig you peg the jewel hole and maybe accidentally push the stone too far in? you can try using penetrating oil and gently pushing the cap jewel out a bit, just make sure you re-clean them afterwards. also do you have a pic of the entire movement?
  21. Yes but its organic acids lactic and gluconic and its heavily diluted with water, using straight up vinegar will most likely instantly remove the lettering. You can dilute these acids but i dont trust my mix of water to acid ratios and I wouldn’t recommend it to the OP. For $6 a pint its already pre-mixed ready to go and hasn’t failed me yet. I have also used these products on radium lumed dials without any issues with the lume afterwards. I attached an example. I wish i had a before pic with dial out the yellow crystal hides all the lime that was on the surface. With all that being said, this is a varnished dial and since there is ink on it so there isn’t many alternatives here without having to reprint. But with the CLR and W&D 40 the OP can make it look much better than it looks now.
  22. I would be careful using anything acidic, you really run the risk of removing more of the writing on the dial, esp since some of is already coming off. there are two things you can use that are safe. Calcium Lime Rust (CLR) and WD-40. I like to do a cleaning with CLR first then finish off with the WD-40. It’s safe on writing and varnish, u have to do some wiping, i suggest using a make up remover pad to gently wipe off the lime. Use the WD-40 to remove any CLR residue
  23. What parts are you looking to interchange.
  24. Man everybody beat me to punch lol. Its a Marvin 362 and i know it like the back of my hand. I have a few parts movements one actually in running condition.
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