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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. it seems like the spring is way to weak....a spring with correct strength for the barrel should be sitting a lot closer to the barrel wall, and the bridal should have more curvature to it which also not helping with the situation, so i would get a pair of round shank beading pliers and curve the bridle a bit more then see if it slips.
  2. The movement is a much older eta, so it could very well need a cleaning, the hairspring could be sticking like NUCE said causing the dramatic increase in rate.
  3. A: because laws of physics do exist inside of a watch escapement. Vigorous movement will add force to the balance wheel, causing it to store more energy and run faster. The amount of energy stored will depend on the duration of the activity...and that will determine how long it takes for the additional force to be expensed and return back to normal rate. B: nothing you can do its the laws of physics at work.
  4. American pocket watches use Dennison measurements, other companies who make Mainspring like Samson for example will use both measurements on their packages
  5. You definitely ordered the correct mean spring. I always go by ranfft whenever or wherever i can. It is common to see springs with same height and length but different strengths for same caliber movement. A spring for 7 jewel will be stronger than a spring for 15 jewel, and 15 jewel stronger than 17 jewel, if the particular movement caliber is offered in different grades. I have never heard of a main spring with different heights. Height 10 vs height 9 could mean a world of difference in some barrels but none in others so it could be possible. You can find a conversion chart on the net. Its all based on region when it comes to movements and parts. Iam usa so i always go by dennison. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I had an extra one i just sold on the bay for $62 they can be pricey for the very reason you mentioned. I was lucky to get one at bid for $27. But its worth every penny even at $60-$70. All you need is one for any type of movement and it will last you forever. Sometimes if you search vintage watchmakers Tool lot on ebay you can get one as a part of a lot for about the same price for one by itself. Then just sell the other tools Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yes there is a tool that will fit see pictures Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Doesnt sound right amp should be at least 270 DU/DD. I wouldn’t mess with it I would just return it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Pin vise.... or flat beading pliers. You can even get a vintage one that will fit any size. Which is what i use. Don’t use tweezers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. It’s a Venus movement. I cant make out the number under the logo on the dial side, but whatever that number is should be the caliber
  11. you want to get exactly what is on ranfft. Especially the height and length. That is very important since the main spring cannot take up more than half of the radius inside the barrel and if the height is too high you won’t be able to close the barrel lid Or have very high friction and rubbing which will give you very low amplitude. Strength You should get the exact number but if it’s .05 off then I think you will be OK but you really should get the exact spring and I’m sure you can find it somewhere. Ranfft uses metric sizes height x strength x length 1.8mm height the 9.0 is height size in dennison measurement. The .09 is strength which is a 12 in dennison and length is 315mm which is about 12 1/2” dennison size. So metric = 1.8 x .09 x 315 Dennison = 9 x 12 x 12 1/2 The 8 at the end of the one GR I believe is the barrel size. I don’t worry about that since you already have the exact measurements of the spring that should be in the Barrel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I agree as a novice I would do the same thing I would just find a donor movement and replace parts as needed. In this particular case he may not be able to find a suitable donor. Eventually he’s going to have to learn either way because for example I work a lot on Waltham Elgin movements and sometimes I get a movement that is a very high grade and I can’t use parts from a lower grade so I am left with no choice but to deal with what I have in front of me and I’m sure the OP will find himself in similar situations in the future. But he should definitely still try to diagnose the problem at least then if you can find a replacement part then great. But the point is just diagnosed the problem. Diagnosing is where the experience comes from Sexting with a solution comes later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Wow! Your not oiling them?! That’s your issue. Believe it or not by cleaning it and not oiling it it’s better off the way it was before. Ok a dry watch can run....but it will NOT run well and it will surely wear down pivots and pinions quicker than you can imagine. You can do a soap water with brush rinse than a naptha soak for about 12 hours. Then a 91% isopropyl alcohol bath for about 5 min. You can get The alcohol at any pharmacy. Do not put the balance or the pallet in the alcohol. But you really do need to get yourself some oil do not buy the cheap stuff I would say the cheapest that you could buy that would be”OK” to use is moebius 8000, Its about $10. a $4 oiler small and one medium.....for future you start of with synthetics moebius 9010 for high friction areas, moebius HP 1300 for low friction and molykote grease for high torque areas and keyless works total for these 3 will be about $70 shipped from esslinger. These oils will last you a very very long time. Some say these have a shelflife but since they are synthetic they will last much longer. I know some people that are still using Elgin 56 synthetics from the 1950s. If you don’t start oiling your movements you are always going to have problems Even if you handled the balance correctly. Do not use toothpicks use pegwood Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. It is high risk but we should encourage him to learn how to work on the escapement. It’s risky I know I have been there I was always so nervous to mess with balance or escapement but I finally got tired of not doing things right and I got the tools and learned. Many more running movements in my drawers now.
  15. I dont think 1 jewel will make the amp go up that high but it is possible. The strength difference would prob be .01 greater so if your original MS is too spec then maybe try going .01 less in strength, again this is a band aid solution, if it is one at all....personally i would check the escapement. It is a good learning experience...i use to have tons of issues with balance and escapement then i purchased Fried’s book “the watch escapement” which is very good at learning how to diagnose issues and remedy them, some of the practices are old school but the overall principles remain the same...i also purchased the tools needed, staking set, roller removers, collet removers, tuning fork, shellac, pallet warmer, etc. One thing i have not done yet is adjust HS length and vibrate them....it really is tedious work that keeps you tight in the shoulders, i just cant do it but, hairsprings can always be measured purchased, although quite difficult but math is easier than sitting their sweating trying to attach a stud to the HS. but either way now that i can identify escapement issues i see past repairs done poorly in these older movements more often than not....banking pins and pallet jewels being number 1 on the list....the movement has screw type banking pins so they will be easy to adjust, get a very strong magnifier or loupe like 5-10x and observe the drop and lock. The escape tooth needs to travel about 2/3rds of the way across the surface of the pallet jewel, tooth short escapement will lock to far and overbanking will occur. It doesn’t seem to have done this before but a through cleaning and possible over-oiling or not using correct oils could have caused it, or if you cleaned the pallet in alcohol the pallet jewels could have moved out of position.
  16. YESSS! Do that so you can see if what’s in there is correct before you go killing yourself trying to get a weaker MS.
  17. Yes you would remove HS collect for beat error but the high amplitude and knocking must be addressed first. You would have the remove the HS collet but there is a tool called a “tuning fork” which can be used to rotate the collet without removal. Vintage ones can be found on eBay I have one i can post a pic when i get back to my office.....as far white alloy springs go YES they are matched but they just deliver force more consistently for a longer period of time opposed to blue steel as far as how weak you should go its just a guess.....again 80 year old movement some one could have used wrong MS at some point.....what were the readings prior to you cleaning and reassembling? Some times people will use a mainspring used for a 7 jewel on a 15 or 17 jewel....not sure how this caliber was configured but i have seen it a lot in the Elgin’s and Waltham’s.
  18. These are designed and managed by power delivered from a blue alloy spring which will not deliver force as consistent as an alloy spring because it takes shape of a coil rather quickly and a white alloy does not. This is part of the reason why knocking is common in these older movements.....normally you get the exact size and strength but in your case your best bandaid option is a weaker alloy spring since we wont be changing the hairspring.....at this point regulating the watch is not going to help you much but after looking up this movement it does seem to have an ad adjustment lever on the balance cock. Turning the HS collet will just adjust the position of the impulse jewel, the length of the HS is where the adjustment should be made.
  19. If balance was changed i would get a new HS as well but in most cases isn’t the answer alone.....yes i do believe they come complete. They also come complete for the American watches as too but hard to find. If he doesn’t have the tools to regulate (which iam sure the OP does and just doesn’t know it) then iam sure he would not have a staking set with correct K&D 50/51 staff remover to remove and fit a new balance staff
  20. Not sure about this particular movement but I have gotten for Elgin 5xx 6xx movements and even Hamilton’s and Waltham’s. I don’t see why you couldn’t find one either way.
  21. Sticking or magnetized hairspring would yield a much lower amp than 336. And your watch would run very fast. Which it is but with high amplitude aka (knocking) however on the verticals positions it will be lower just because of gravity and increased friction. this is an older movement so it could be that at some point someone made adjustments to the banking pins and did not adjust the depth of the pallet jewels. You need to check your drop and lock in the escapement and make adjustments there. A new hairspring could be the answer bust most often is not. There other ways to fix this but they are not recommended but would just be putting a band aid on it so iam not going to make those suggestions. Older movements can be a pain to diagnose because gold knows ho many people had their hands on it the last 80 years not mention those that had no clue what they were doing...... Also did you put a new mainspring in it?
  22. These movements you quoted are very old (1940/50s era) so they are much more inclined to fault when not handled properly.my first question is are you cleaning and oiling these before reassembling? If not then that can be your issue to begin with but here’s what i think...... the one that stops on the side = bent balance staff and/or broken jewel why? Because you did not set the balance properly before screwing down the bridge. It’s should be ticking as soon as you seat it correctly if there is power from the mainspring. I always wind up the watch and check action of the pallet before installing the balance. Once you see it running put the screw in and gently rest your finger on the bridge while you screw it down, sometimes they wiggle as you screw it down and the staff can pop out of the pivot. Just use the weight of your finger do not apply any additional pressure. Do not screw it down all the way at first, screw it until bridge is secure remove finger the tighten it as much as you can from there...balance screws should be tight too loose can cause watch to stop. the one that runs fast = magnetized or sticking hairspring coil why? Because you didn’t clean the movement. Or demagnetize the movement and or your tools. You could also be warping the hairspring when you remove it or not setting it down properly after you remove it. It should be laid on its back with wheel sitting into the balance cock pivot, or put up on a balance tack...some are against this but i have used a balance tack forever and never once had an issue....i just wouldn’t leave it there too long. When a movement runs fast look very closely at the coils expanding and contracting - a cell phone video with slow motion works good. Make sure none of the coils are sticking and also make sure the expansion is even on both sides. when not laid properly the hairspring can get off center and coils will contract much more on one side causing it to run fast.
  23. Just revive this thread as a motorcyclist I use dish soap to stop my goggles from fogging up. It works I even use it on a mirror in my shower so I can shave....just take a drop of soap and apply a thin layer to the lense...it won’t affect clarity
  24. Well looks like a broken pivot as we can all see, you must have not seated the balance properly before screwing it down which is why it doesn’t look even which was pointed out by John...which is was what I thought to begin with.
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