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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. OK the one movement that both balances were tight in, i replaced the balance staff and used a different cock from another parts movement, i set the watch in beat and now its running like a champ, the other one i got to work but not 100% i replaced one of the banking pins but balance stops cold at one position, if i leave the movement laying on the table both dial up and down it runs perfect, as soon as i pick it up it stops. i noticed the balance is wobbling so i think roller jewel is getting stuck on pallet safety do too excessive wobble. i def feel something rubbing at the stopping point. i think this may be due to a bent staff.
  2. saswatch88

    UPDATE Mind boggling escapement issue

    i replaced the inner banking pin, and i went off of the position of the last one, but i adjusted the screw while looking at the lock of the escape tooth on the pallet jewel. i made sure the pallet fork was resting on the banking pin as i turned it. the balance wheel stops at like a certain angle and sometimes just me holding. for example iam holding it it stops as soon as i put it down it starts to tick, pick it up again it stops. it does seem to lock but the escapement does not lock, i know its not an issue with pallet or escape wheel because like i said it ran overnight now problem sitting on my bench. the BW does wobble so iam thinking a bent upper pivot, bottom looks fine but cant see the upper till i take the HS off
  3. saswatch88

    Escape wheel needed for seiko 4006a

    it is seiko part# 251805.....below is a link to parts list and manual for the 4006 https://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Seiko/4006A.pdf I found one on ebay NOS $21 with shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEIKO-Escape-Wheel-Pinion-Mechanical-Watch-251-Part-Japan-Made-NOS/303066393666?hash=item46902a2c42:m:m0LlX7sqVJ04bDwEXo-OtUw&frcectupt=true
  4. saswatch88

    Stem availability

    i was going to say a spring sounds like the culprit here, glad you figured it out
  5. saswatch88

    Lesson: Part 2 - Removing Balance

    usually i use a balance tack but i only have one so if i have an extra balance iam working on i place it with bottom pivot down on a piece of rodico. i dont like flipping balance over because i always grab it by the cock, unlike mark how he grabs the cock and balance together. i guess its a matter of preference. placing it briefly on the desk like mark did will not cause any damage to the lower pivot though.
  6. OK i want to get a GOOD cleaning solution, iam tired of using naptha. Was looking at LR but i think i may want to go with zenith. I want the movement to really shine so the zenith 777 is what i may go with but iam assuming it has fumes, all my equipment is indoors so was thinking to go with zenith 67 instead, but how well is the shine compared to the 777 does anyone know? also since both of these cleaners are solvent based iam sure i will also have to get the rinsing solution as well. Also when i clean parts in my ultrasonic i put them in glass jars will any of these solutions have problem being in a closed off glass jar while cleaning, i figured this may also help with any fumes while cleaning. and one last question: i hate cleaning balances in the ultrasonic i had a few hairsprings get screwed up cleaning them in an ultrasonic, sometime if i pull the balance out by the cock the wheel gets stuck in the solution. so i was gunna go with one dip but i read that it leaves a sticky residue and that doesnt sound acceptable esp for a cleaner designed specifically for hairsprings.
  7. ok here we go: i have two of the same exact movement, caliber and make, waltham 1907 6/0 size. iam having the same issue with both of them. i took them apart cleaned and oiled them. mainspring is good in both. when i put the pallet fork in and wind the watch, iam not getting the snapping back and forth action from the pallet. if i operate it manually it spins the escape wheel just fine. when i take it out the train unwinds and its very smooth and i even get the little wind back at the end so i knowwww its not a mainspring problem, and i swapped pallets and pallet cocks in every combo possible and iam getting the same result in both movements. The pallet jewels are fine no chips or loose jewels. I really dont get it, i have never had this issue. as i said if i operate the pallet lever with tweezers and move them back and forth the escape wheel turns, but the pallet will not snap by itself. what in the world could the issue be. The fact that its happening in both movements using different but same parts makes it even more of a mystery. any ideas????
  8. saswatch88

    Pocket watch stem/case?

    looks like you can fit a sharp blade in there pretty easy, some of these old pocket watches had a groove shaved under the lid in order to fit a case knife under it, if you get it off you can do it yourself making it easier to remove next time
  9. saswatch88

    ANOTHER mind boggling escapement issue!

    hey nuce where did you see that video that mark made, is it a part of the dial up dial down series videos
  10. saswatch88

    ANOTHER mind boggling escapement issue!

    ah ok watch paper i also heard you can use a dial washer.
  11. saswatch88

    ANOTHER mind boggling escapement issue!

    i believe this was the issue at first and i fixed it. but now balance stops on dial side up. come to think of it jrichard i noticed a coning at the bottom of the upper balance pivot, i know this is normal but this looked different and this was from the balance that was original to the movement the other balance looks better but still stops. Nuce joe as far as other movement goes that is very tight i lifted the cock a bit but did it wayyyy too much now the balance is all over the place, and laxy me tried to do it with balance installed and i think i bent the pivot, so thats one is finished it was one of those moments when you realize that you knew that was going happen before you did it but did it anyway and cant figure out why. also how do you shim a balance, never really tried it. what do you use? also i would never gouge the plate.
  12. saswatch88

    ANOTHER mind boggling escapement issue!

    "couple of hundreds of a millimeter" thats what drives me nuts how can you tell just by moving the balance with tweezers that it is the measurement of shakes you are getting? Pallet and roller jewels are good, and pivots look straight i even polished them on levin pivot polisher, bottom jewel looks good but iam thinking its the jewel on the balance cock it looks like it has a crack in it, as far as the other movement goes i didnt get to that one yet. i really need to invest in one of those lcd microscopes this 15x eye loop does no justice. well at this point i need a new balance for the other movement because i dont have a seitz kit and in order to replace these jewels i also need a jewel setting kit which they are go for 100+ on ebay and they are hard to come by complete since they are usually pre 1940. You have to spread the metal out to remove the jewel then close it back up. Jewel changing is something i have not gotten into yet, the equipment is expensive and normally i will just get another movement and swap and replace parts until i get one to work. another weird aspect of these old waltham/elgin movements is that on some grades even though same model the pallet fork will have the safety pin on the top sticking straight up, and i noticed on one movement it was bent down a bit probably from last guy trying to install it, and the roller jewel kept rubbing against it, but sadly not the case here
  13. saswatch88

    ANOTHER mind boggling escapement issue!

    yes i checked all this i finally got the pallet to snap back and forth and finally got it running but it stops immediately on dial up. i think there something with the jewels. as i said i have two of the same movements and on the one both balances are too tight and the other it just stops on dial up with both balances. i really hate escapement work, its so tedious and seems impossible to figure out the exact problem and a solid solution
  14. saswatch88

    ANOTHER mind boggling escapement issue!

    all correct but remember it the force of the mainspring which travels through the train up to the escape wheel then to the pallet which powers the balance although the balance keeps the watch running. i always like to think of the mainspring as the transmission and the balance as the motor. anyway i cranked the mainspring up even more and i finally got it to spin but it dies out quickly in certain positions i dont believe there is and end skake problem the blance spins very nice and straight when installed by itself. thinking maybe mainspring is too weak and needs to be changed anyone agree
  15. yes thats the one! yes you should hold reset button on all chronos
  16. You cant do any harm really, but when you hold the button down while setting the chrono hand there is no need to press down too hard that may cause damage to the recording wheel hearts. Just hold it firmly but dont over do it. there is a hand setting press on ebay that is only $13 this helps keep the chrono hand steady while holding down the reset button. trying to hold down the reset button with one hand and then using other hand to grab tweezers, place the hand on the pinion, and then press it with a hand held press without making it move off zero can be tricky. the hand press helps with that, and is an overall good tool because even when putting hands on in a normal situation it will allow you to press hands down so they lay parallel with the dial.
  17. Dumont #8 tweezers are advertised for pivot straightening. Can anyone attest to how well they work, and also how do you actually use them. I read you can also use these to straighten a bent hand. Just want to get some info since they cost about $80 new and been looking for a decent used pair.
  18. saswatch88

    Question about Dumont #8

    iam always holding my breath when working on watches, i feel like american sniper. lol
  19. boosting value can also be subjective because it all depends on who is buying. a completely refinished watch may bring in big money because there is someone out there who will pay the big bucks to get it. But most collectors like original. Original meaning the same parts on the watch from the day it was manufactured. I have seen some original watches that were not restored but remained in excellent condition, in some cases vintage watches being sold NOS, those watches bring in the big bucks. i guess all original in the best possible condition is what collectors look for.
  20. me personally i dont refinish vintage dials, esp those that served as military watches or purpose watches, like pre-moon speedmaster for example, some spend $2000+ to get theirs refinished from omega and i think thats a sin. Same as rolex, how many 1675 Gmts have sold for 5 figures with faded bezels no one would dare replace them even if it was NOS. I collect vintage war watches, ww1, ww2, vietnam. when i buy i want them too look like they survived a war. I have a friend who collects them as well and he refinished them with all original parts and sells them for $700 plus, they look like they are brand new. Some people like that i dont, it takes away from the watches history and it loses its character and uniqueness. I have ww1 waltham that belonged to a Captain who was a doctor in the 331st machine gune battalion. His name, rank, and unit is engraved on the back, its beat up and doesnt run, i dont care i left it the way it is, and i still paid $480 for it at an auction. however cleaning a dial i feel is a nice middle ground, clean it up wipe the dirt off, cool. but then again it is preference, ask yourself are you a collector or an admirer. If you are a collector leave it as is, if you are an admirer refinish it.
  21. saswatch88

    HELP with escapement

    i have a vintage trench watch movements, i cleaned an oiled the movement reassembled it. the hair spring and balance are perfect with good shakes when installed. but for some reason i can only get it to tick for a few seconds then it stops, then if i try to get it to spin with an air puffer it banks to the left then stops. i played with the banking pins a bit and did not get any good results. the lock on the pallet jewels look fine too. mainspring is new and the fork banks left to right perfect when balance is not installed. its not over banking since the roller jewel is not slipping from the fork, its under banking. the left banking pin was already bent to the outside. pushing the pins in did not allow escapement lock. so Iam thinking the right banking pin needs to be spread out. because when balance started to move it looks as if the pallet is not banking off the right pin, then it just rests on the right every time it stops. only other thing i can think off is adjust the roller. any ideas or suggestions?
  22. saswatch88

    HELP with escapement

    I found a complete seitz kit for less than $200 once on ebay was only missing one reamer, just no there are other things you may need esp for replacing jewels. 1: jewel setting tool set for opening and closing the surrounding metal hold a non pressure fitted jewel in place, and a jewel guage which are dam near impossible to find complete, or buy a new one from seitz which big $$$ Nuce i do the same thing and dont think its bad advice, i have seen other watchmakers do it as well, sometimes its even better than using a caliper, do you poise the wheels too? i usually only poise older watch BS's with the weights attached.
  23. you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750. also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers. as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.