Jump to content

saswatch88

Advanced Member
  • Content Count

    488
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. I have used this on steel, iron, nickel, aluminum, brass, zinc, black oxide, and anything with rust or surface rust. As far as carbs go there are steel components that do rust but this solution cleans not just the rust but everything else as well including the old gas varnish. Most watch movements are made of non ferrous metals so they can be anti-magnetic, but the stems for example are consisted of ferrous carbon steel for its tensile strength and they are much more susceptible to rust and corrosion esp. since it has the most exposure to boot. So the stems tend to rust first and then it sprea
  2. at this point iam leaving it as is, i feel like if i service. it it wont run as good
  3. its a vintage watch which i normally dont wear them but i wore it for a few hours around the house until i went to bed and it was ticking away kept perfect time and was still good in the AM. New from the factory it had a 40hr power reserve it finally stopped at 45 hrs and was ahead by 1 min. but that 1 min happened after the first 40hr which iam going to chock up to the MS not having enough power since it was on it last leg causing low amp and high friction which would have sped up the watch in the final 5 hrs
  4. Not really saying evaporust isnt good or didnt work it just took longer to dissolve the rust esp if it was heavy. The metal rescue actually polishes the metal too so not only does it remove the rust it leaves the metal nice and shiny, just remove the part and wipe down with a cloth looks brand new.....if i could show you some of the motorcycle carbs i did you would think that it was new from the factory.
  5. i have used the evaporust and i swear it does not compare to metal rescue...i never really looked at the difference in the solution so i dont know why that is but, I have put many other watchmakers on to this solution and all of them no longer use evaporust....Only suggestion is if you tend to do soaks instead of shorter ultrasonic all you need is 24hrs you can do 48hr but dont push it because it will then start to turn the metal black.....if you have deep corrosion i do one soak then wire brush then a second soak
  6. I swear by this stuff, I use it to remove rust and restore old motorcycle parts, I even use it on carbs since it wont damage plastic and rubber seals. I wish I had some before and afters to show you but you just wouldnt believe it if i did. It looks like one of those fake pitch commercials that air on TV at 4am.....they actually sell a similar product on some watch material sites but i have only seen "Vaporust" which sucks compared to this....its also non toxic and non corrosive. You can actually drink this stuff. Use with ultrasonic for faster results....you can buy this at a hardware store l
  7. So check this out I had an elgin 539 a-11 hacking movement with a bad balance, i swapped the balance and realized it just did not work, (and yes i checked the hack lever, the stem was still in) I did nothing to this movement, didnt disassemble clean or do anything. I put the movement back in my organizer bin, and a couple days ago I opened it to start the service on it. However oddly enough as soon as I picked it up it started ticking away, so then I winded it up put a dial and hands on it and boom! This thing is still running! its been almost 42 hrs now and its keeping DEAD accurate time. I h
  8. John........and that us why I dread balance work, i try to always find a suitable replacement but i know i shouldnt do that because i will never learn. The process is crazy, removing roller, staff, installing setting impulse jewel in beat, etc etc....at least most of the waltham/elgins are friction fit, the riveted balances i dont even bother doing since i dont have a lathe and the platax tool doesnt really help to not distort the wheel. Good thing that most movements including the later elgin 5xx grades with riveted balances would sell a complete balance, and they are quite easy to come by. S
  9. watch running fast..... 1. What is the amplitude? 2. demagnetize movement and tools 3. Are hairspring coils sticking? If so how did you clean the balance assembly? 4. Mainspring replacement? If so what strength did you use. There air about 4-6 different strengths for each caliber waltham movement which will vary based on jewel count. 5. Oiling the escapement, what oil did you use and how did you apply it. Did you get any on the hairspring, or on the top of the pallet jewels?
  10. maybe the jewel is cracked. Never had any issues like this on any seiko 7xxx movements.
  11. I have to agree with this whole heartedly because coming from a guy who has always worked on older waltham/eglin movements this is almost always the case even when using the same grade and calibre. However I have swapped parts between 554 movements and they are supposed to be interchangeable but as John stated they rarely are. My rule of thumb is always keep the wheels and top plates together as much as possible. Its not always how they were made but how they had worn down in the last 80 years. Some pivots could have worn down much more or even differently than others. But not sure why you hav
  12. hello guys, been a while but I have a movement that is really starting to get the best of me. problem after problem then finally when i got it all together and thinks its good to go I realize the hands are not moving even though watch is ticking away......now I know what your gunna say "loose cannon pinion" well no if anything its seems too tight. Its stiff when changing time from the crown, i checked each wheel separately and doesnt seem to be any binding until i put the canon pinion and the wheel that moves the canon pinion from the stem (whatever that wheel is called drawing a blank). I rea
  13. Demagnetize is good practice but wont solve your problem. either you have a positional balance issue, broken or cracked bottom balance pivot jewel, and/or you did a poor job cleaning and servicing the watch particularly on the mainspring and barrel arbor.
  14. def. brass, looks as if it was plated and somebody tried removing it using a chemical process (acids) and tried to dry it with heat and accidentally overheated it, minerals and water can also have the same affect on brass, its highly unlikely but its the first thing that comes to mind due to the purple/blue discoloration, this is a very common problem when people try to clean empty shell casing in order re-case them and make their own ammunition. The brass is treated or heated improperly.
  15. peroxide gotta try that too. yes you def need to be careful with the bleach, if you get a little on the dial just quickly wipe it up or use an air duster to dry it up.....it is somewhat forgiving, but extra care is needed with black dials like the seikos...watches that have lume plots like the 6105 makes it much easier than a lumed matte dial like the 6309.
  16. no it doesnt matter at this point i will take what i can get. i would prefer a new arbor as well. i just like to use oem whenever possible
  17. hello, i need to source a 6105 mainspring, i use to get oem ones from a seller on ebay but he is currently out of stock. I need to know where i kind find a new oem one or maybe is there a part number i can search. I would be open to buying an aftermarket from ofrei or borgel. I just need someone to point me in the right direction as to where i can get one that i know will fit and not give me any issues. I know the part# Seiko 401615 which seems to work with all 61xx seikos, but only few sellers outside US have it and they are like $60....wondering if a GR24571x from cousins would work. I
  18. Hey guys long time just wanted to share some finding with you, I have been searching for a way to clean vintage watch lume, particularly in Seiko's which seems to be one of the top brands where collectors look for clean original lume. Esp when it comes to the 6105's, re-lumes kill the value of these, an old moldy patina lume is better than a re-lume, but is obviously not as good as nice clean white lume. These pull in prices that go for about double the cost of an original moldy lumed one. SO i picked up an all original 72' 6105 very clean, except for dial it wasnt that bad really but on
  19. Took rotor off and it runs put it back on and stopped now the movement is no longer working and rotor bearings are screwed up in a fit of rage i launched it accross the room so its now in my junk bin. Never in my 8 years of experience have i ever had an issue like this come from simply removing then installing a caseback Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I also tried with no gasket and no ring and with gasket but no ring i tried every wich way i could Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I tried it without gasket too and no dice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I dont see any groova for the stem Or any markings inside of the back that indicate any rubbing of the counter weight. Are used a photo from the auction showing the orientation of the case back and I snapped the back back on in the same exact position. And it still has no effect I cannot understand this at all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Hey guys i just got a cheapo swiss waltham automatic That was surprisingly running pretty accurate. I decided to take the back off just to see what kind of movement was inside andvthats it. Now the issue is when I snap the caseback back on it stops the watch! I do not hear the counterweight spinning. So it’s definitely pressing on top of the movement. I swear I literally did nothing to this watch except open it to see the movement. And FYI this has nothing to do with the gasket or the movement ring. I have tried putting it on 100 million different ways. The movement is in the exact position i
  24. .8 not .08 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. .08 is too high for shimming plus it messes with the height of the hands Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...