Jump to content

Oil cups


teegee

Recommended Posts

Currently, I'm using the hard-plastic type of oil cup that has three reservoirs with one lid. Works fine, but is prone to scoring a bit if you stab them with an oiler.

Last month I did exams at the BHI, and they had very nice Bergeon metal agate-cup oilers with individual lids.

On ebay I found a Chinese version that seems OK -- but has anyone here used a set of these?

(This link is link is just one of many sellers with the same product, as usual)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-New-Oil-Cup-Stand-with-4-Agate-Containers-For-Watchmaker-Watch-Repair-Tool/292568705943

Cheers!

     Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, rogart63 said:

Bought mine from cousinsuk . Works okay. And is a little cheaper on cousinsuk . Have tested the Bergeon so have nothing to compare  with. Have a small red Bregeon with agate and that works fine. 

I have these as well and I think they are grate .....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, rogart63 said:

Bought mine from cousinsuk . Works okay. And is a little cheaper on cousinsuk . Have tested the Bergeon so have nothing to compare  with. Have a small red Bregeon with agate and that works fine. 

Bregeon is not a special brand. It's me that can't spell the to Bergeon :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great, time to get a set :)

Cousins is much more expensive at 35 UKP, plus shipping vs 28 USD including shipping on ebay. The proper bergeon one is 90 UKP, which is not even as much as I expected. The full metal one is 260 quid though, lol

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I do not recommend these.
I noticed small particles in the oil, and on closer inspection I saw that it comes from the hinges. When opening and closing, the hinges grind away paint and material that ends up in the oil.

But it is much nicer to use this kind of oil cups than the cheap plastic ones, so there is no going back now. I will invest in the original Bergeon version

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, that didn't work out..  I received a set from China, and it turns out the cups are made of plastic -- some sort of nylon (see picture). That's even worse than the hard plastic ones I'm using at the moment. 

The seller clearly stated that they are agate cups and apologized for the incorrect description (probably just copied from another seller anyway).  Working out a resolution now, sigh. At least he's responsive.

So now I'm very hesitant to buy another set from ebay, since I don't want to run into this issue with another seller as well.

 

oil-cup-plastic.thumb.jpg.18380de5b44ec8489fc39baa643744b8.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/17/2018 at 6:45 AM, teegee said:
Well, that didn't work out..  I received a set from China, and it turns out the cups are made of plastic -- some sort of nylon (see picture). That's even worse than the hard plastic ones I'm using at the moment. 
The seller clearly stated that they are agate cups and apologized for the incorrect description (probably just copied from another seller anyway).  Working out a resolution now, sigh. At least he's responsive.
So now I'm very hesitant to buy another set from ebay, since I don't want to run into this issue with another seller as well.

As I said, I'm not happy with mine either, so I would not get another from ebay. I found out after it was too late to file a complaint, so that is a loss for me.

In the end the real deal is probably a better value. I have one on the way.

Edited by jdm
Please don't include pictures in quoting
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Halvis said:

As I said, I'm not happy with mine either, so I would not get another from ebay. I found out after it was too late to file a complaint, so that is a loss for me.

In the end the real deal is probably a better value. I have one on the way.

I have the hard plastic ones, have tested them with no problems. I did re-finish the concave oil recesses though. Works well for me. I do re-finish most watch repair equipment though to my satisfaction. Expensive screwdrivers and tweezers are an example and still need to be "touched up" to make spot on.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the hard plastic ones, have tested them with no problems. I did re-finish the concave oil recesses though. Works well for me. I do re-finish most watch repair equipment though to my satisfaction. Expensive screwdrivers and tweezers are an example and still need to be "touched up" to make spot on.
 
My oil cups contaminate the oil. The hinges grind away paint and material that ends up in the oil. To remedy this is simply not worth the hassle (to me)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Halvis said:
35 minutes ago, ecodec said:
I have the hard plastic ones, have tested them with no problems. I did re-finish the concave oil recesses though. Works well for me. I do re-finish most watch repair equipment though to my satisfaction. Expensive screwdrivers and tweezers are an example and still need to be "touched up" to make spot on.
 

My oil cups contaminate the oil. The hinges grind away paint and material that ends up in the oil. To remedy this is simply not worth the hassle (to me)

No paint or hinges on mine !! Just cover caps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 the vintage oil cups are the best.  designed to be free of contamination.  either the high quality steel ( 3 hinged cups),  or the hard jewel single cups encased in wood.   they should be easy to find in "used tools for sale".    any contamination is not acceptable.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 the vintage oil cups are the best.  designed to be free of contamination.  either the high quality steel ( 3 hinged cups),  or the hard jewel single cups encased in wood.   they should be easy to find in "used tools for sale".    any contamination is not acceptable.  vin
I sure hope the modern Bergeon oil cups are free from contamination as well.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A amusement with the link above eBay now makes recommendations as that item is no longer available. Of course the recommendation is the same item but side-by-side one seller claims agate which is slightly cheaper then the other seller claiming plastic then of course they all look identical

A problem with plastic is each time you insert the oiler in there's the possibility of scratching the plastic with little particles coming off with time. Then there's the long term consequences of oil and plastic? As we have zero idea of the chemical makeups of the plastics the oil is going to be sitting in their basically forever even if you do change it from time to time it's still long-term oil and plastic no idea what good and bad will come from that.

Personally what I use and like is the individual cups. These are the classic oil cups originally made out of wood and agate. Later generation ones like I have or more affordable is the agate is replaced with tinted glass to look like agate and much later ones the top is plastic rather than wood.  Then I like individual cups because typically I have quite a few different lubricants. Then with individual cups they can be moved right next to the watch makes it easy to see what you're doing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Personally what I use and like is the individual cups. These are the classic oil cups originally made out of wood and agate. Later generation ones like I have or more affordable is the agate is replaced with tinted glass to look like agate and much later ones the top is plastic rather than wood.  Then I like individual cups because typically I have quite a few different lubricants. Then with individual cups they can be moved right next to the watch makes it easy to see what you're doing.

Interesting.. I wonder if I should try to get a few single cups instead. For rarer oils (like braking grease), it doesn't matter if it's in a 3-cup hard plastic oil pot. Old oil cups are not that easy to find though. 

For funsies, I had a look at Cousins. Single cup, glass wells, Bergeon is 14.50. That adds up quickly.   Single cup, plastic, A*F: 23.50. Wow..  

Perhaps I should just stick with 1.50 single cup Indian ones, and teach myself to stop stabbing chips off the cup wall :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

I actually 3D printed some for myself.  Took an hour of sanding and polishing but they should serve okay until I can afford better. I originally wanted to make my own cups similar to that on clickspring, but I just can't find the little agate cups for less than buying the Bergeon ones.  Oil and all the related bits to go with oiling has so far been the most expensive part of getting into watch repair for me.

IMG_0997_small.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...