Khan

I now doubt the fitting with a glass one way curved only? The closest I could find of double curved glasses on CousinsUK was: Does it matter if it´s 0.22 mm shorter in length? Do I cut, buff or file it? If cutting, what tool needed? I currently have a dremel with polishing pad and compound.

Hello I´d like to replace a broken glass on a art deco rectangular vintage watch from possibly 40´s. The glass size is odd: Length=32.22 mm and Width=21.38mm. Existing acrylic glass is curved in both directions. Cousinsuk has for example following glass closest to desired size. This one is curved in longitudinal direction only. The one curved in both ways available was relatively larger and may require cutting. Do I buff it away?I have a dremel with polish pads and polishing compound.

That couldn't be more explanative and informative. I'm amazed of the effort done in the research. My order record says I have replaced the escape wheel from a 1950. Therefore, I just ordered a spare 1803 movement to make it right. Thanks again, much appreciated.

Hi Marc Thanks for letting me know. Are there any parts that can be interchangeable in such case? And what makes a watch beating at higher rate designwise?

Hello Darak Yes, the spring bar tool may be one of best starting gifts you can give yourself. Buy a larger fork 6767-A as replacement end as well and you all set. Description in previous link. As long as the low budget case knife is not sharpened, it will be fine. The jaxa openers are expensive, but a middle range screw down opener will hopefully be less rocking when turning. It's mostly a challenge when back is immensely stuck. The rest is practice and a deep breath.

Hi Ajdo. I use following from Bergeon which is the money worth and prevent you from sweating. https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-7767-f-stainless-steel-spring-bar-tool/ https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-7403-swiss-case-knife-2-blade/

Thanks to both of you for enriching knowledge sharing. Very grateful for your effort. I just took cleaned and assembled the movement again. It still doesn't keep time. It looses 20 seconds per minute. The good news is that it's now running. I also tightened the off set canon pinion slightly and turning hands now seems with the correct resistance. When taking apart the movement, I realized the pivot of center wheel on dial side was tilting. I straightened it as good as possible and now it's 'dancing' within its outer width when you look from side. (Hope it's good enough). I believe that could be the reason for movement in stopping. I have maybe taken the escape wheel from as 1950/51, if any spare part from a family movement, which has higher beat. The balance is original.

Hi Ajdo Buy a quality spring bar tool and case knife to prevent unnecessary slippery and/or scratches.

I might have a spare for escape wheel. Notice that prior to cleaning, it was running on a long power reserve but with terribly time loss. Like 2 hours per day. Yes, it runs more than a turn in the escape wheel, maybe half minute. Please introduce me to overbanking fault, thanks in advance.

Hi It ran many seconds slow per minute, even though my app time measurer told it was running absolutely fine. Now after full cleaning and lubrication, it seems better in amplitude but same time loss, but stops after half minute run. I also checked the balance with another spare part, so it can't be magnetisation, hairspring looks fine. Visually, the escapement wheel freezes and the rest stops immediately. It's a mystery for me this time: Is it a loose off center canon pinion??

Thank You guys for responses. Here's a picture. The existing long piped crown is not deep enough to fit the tube on the case. The winding is a litte stiff despite service, so would prefer not to go down in thread size. I'm a little confused by tap conversions, seems it's different from US and UK? I found some on eBay Spain by typing 'tissot vintage crown's but not sure of them yet relatively pricy.

Dear enthusiasts I measured the stem thread to be approx. 1.05 mm. When I choose a crown, should I go for tap 10 (1.00 mm) or tap 11 (1.10 mm). Correct me if I'm wrong in conversions. Cousinsuk sells new Tissot crowns but these are standardized tap 9(0.90 mm) and unfortunately not compatible. The watch is from end 40s. Thanks for helping.

Now solved! I figured the canon pinion in center was too tight, so used your suggestion to loosen it supplied by rolling it forth/back on rear of a thick oiler Moreover, I slightly tightened the offset minor canon pinion and now all hands moving without too low/high friction when setting. Thanks again!

Thanks, Nucejoe I might have tightened it slightly too much. Any way to loosen it? I guess the key is the friction wheel marked red on attached image. This wheel is not running when crown pulled in, wherefore the rest of the wheels towards center not running either. Do I have to tighten that instead?

Hello I just did an overhaul on the movement (image is another test movement). To me, it's a mystery why the hands not moving when the crown is pulled in. Actually, the watch won't run(seems there is no activity in the center wheel). Prior to service, it was running, but turning the hands occasionally, wherefore I took it apart. I tightened the canon pinion as well, but that only helped with resistance when turning hands. Is the gap between center wheel pin and canon pinion causing the issue?