dieale2

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  1. Hello folks, I got a Landeron 48 and I wanted to case it. To my surprise, cases for chronographs can be more expensive than the movement itself. Are there cheaper ways to case chronographs? Could I drill some holes for the pushers in a regular case? Thanks, dieale2
  2. Here are some relevant microscope pictures. This is a pretty normal modern movement with calendar complications. The balance is shock protected. The first photo was me shooting at 200X through the upper balance jewel. Sorry for the lack of context. The watch didn't run at all at the start. The pivots do look a bit "mushroomed"? I put the balance cock on a jeweler's anvil and it looked straight on. I included a picture of the cock sideways. Looks straight to me.
  3. ETA 2824 Hairspring

    Why do manufacturers use this system? A screw is simpler imo. Maybe it's easier to automate manufacturing if you remove sideways screws? So you can jig the part and do everything on one side. Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk
  4. Hello folks, I am practising on a Gruen 522CD. I installed the train wheels and escapement to make sure the watch is running fine. I use my microscope to inspect the jewels and pivots because I can't see them with a 20X loupe. I found that the balance pivot won't go into unless I force the balance cock down with the cock screwed in. Maybe I need to bent the cock down? That seems pretty barbaric. Below you can see the pivot barely moving into the jewel. The bottom pivot does the same thing.
  5. Hello folks. I been working on this Elgin watch. A few days ago I asked about the trains seizing and now I am working on this hairspring. I have been messing with it for a couple hours and now I am kinda stuck on what to do. The inner coils are messed up but I am having a super hard time seeing them. Should I try to get finer tweezers? Right now they are bigger the space between the coils.
  6. Subtle timegraph issues?

    Here's another timegraph of a watch. It's a vintage Russian watch that I bought from ebay. It looks like it obliviously needs a rebuilt from the irregular chart. It doesn't say it's been serviced and you can see the results.
  7. I am using tg-timer to time an Unitas 6340. The ebay seller said it was serviced. Apart from the slow rate, it actually looks pretty good. However, I noticed some subtle problems with the waveform of the graph. First, on the bottom panel, there is an extra noise detected. According to this, something is glazing in the balance. Second, in the middle panel, right before the pallet locks the wheel, there is an extra noise. Does that mean the balance is hitting something it's not suppose to? I am new to watch repairing so I am wondering if I am reading this graph right.
  8. I certainly didn't. I will always appreciate you guy's advice. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  9. I took a picture of the hairspring. I am not sure how much was me or the last person... The hairspring bent when I used the adjuster lever. I am not sure why it caught on the pins. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  10. It doesn't get any pretty when you get close. I guess being 80+ years old does a number on you.
  11. I removed the pallet fork and balance wheel and saw that none of the train wheels were running on full power. I loosed the barrel bridge and suddenly the power was released. It looks like when I screw down the bridge, it jams the barrel somehow and stops the power. After loosing the bridge screws, it started to tick. It looks like the amplitude is pretty low after setting the adjustment lever to something more reasonable. The hairspring seems a bit out of wack. Looking up the serial number, the production date was 1930 and grade 487. It's a really beautiful vintage movement. I hope to collect more of these vintage Elgin wristwatches. It doesn't look like many people care about them since the price is pretty low.
  12. I am pretty new at this and I decided to repair a vintage 1920s Elgin. I got it off from Goodwill and it couldn't be wound. Several people serviced the watch before me as seen in all the screwdriver marks.I found it was very dirty and there were brass shaving in my cleaning solution. I looked like something want installed right and it grinded the plates. Anyway, when I installed and oil the train wheels, they ran freely. I installed and oiled the pallet fork and manually checked the locking. The pallet fork would lock as intended. The winding mechanism works good and I wound it until I couldn't move the crown. When I installed the balance cock, the wheel would spin freely but wouldn't sustain itself. I could move the wheel manually and it would slowly lose energy and stop even though the watch was fully wound. The endshake is good from what I could tell. The balance is slightly move up and down. I found another thread here suggesting the cannon pinon was stopping the movement. I removed the cannon pinon and the problem was the same. I looked at the pivots of the train and balance staff and they looked fine to me. I didn't replace the mainspring but it looks like it's holding power just fine. Not really sure what to do, any help would be great. I could upload pictures tomorrow if needed. Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk
  13. Watchmaker's Part & Tool Lot

    Very interesting! I find it funny how the article derails people for mistaking them for center punches. Are there pictures or guides on doing this properly? It seems like punching dents into a movement is an ugly way to fix a problem. Especially since installing a new bushing would look much cleaner.
  14. Watchmaker's Part & Tool Lot

    I am a newbie so grain of salt and etc... Left to right: The stamping on the tweezers indicates what model it is. It seems like the letters and numbers are standard among manufactures. I looked up "C" and nothing came up. I could be that the watchmaker grind a spare tweezer for a special purpose. Maybe holding pivots? No idea. I seen that on Ebay listing so it's probably another wacky looking watch tool. No idea. I am guessing that the collar on the tool slides on the arms to tighten on a pinion. It's basically a pin vise. This is probably to heat up pieces to put shellac on it. You put the brass plate over a flame and put the shellac on it. You attach jewels in way. This funny looking tool is a holder for the roller impulse jewel on the balance staff. People use this tool to replace the impulse on very old pocket watches where parts are extremely scarce. This blog post showcases the usage of two of your tools. I don't know about the last two. Looks like some sort of holder for a part. For the first picture, it looks like something you put pinions into to true a wheel. Although it missing the upper half if that's the case. Maybe it's part of a staking set and it holds parts with pinions? For the second picture, I agree. It does look like center punches. You can easily figure that out by using it.
  15. You probably know that the Hamilton Khaki Field watch are popular sub $500 dollar Swiss watches. I was reading the blog, asian-watches.com, and the author mention that Swatch doesn't sell Hamilton on Amazon. Only grey market dealers are actually selling on Amazon. I was surprised because at lower end markets because volume is everything. If you want volume, you sell on Amazon. I figured Swatch realized how big Amazon was and sold watches on Amazon. Turns out, their actual website for selling online is at MSRP which is $200 more. The problem here is that it's extremely confusing to consumers. If I buy a $300 watch, I figure that there is going to be some warranty. It turns out that because I bought from Amazon, Swatch doesn't offer their warranty and I have to use a third party. If you read the warranty on their pages, you notice they always state their warranty is a third party. Meaning depending who I buy from, servicing might be a crap shoot. This is especially the case with Amazon because they sell watches through third party sellers. These sellers tend to change meaning their warranty also changes. So you are buying a watch from a third party seller from Amazon which is also a third party unauthorized seller from Swatch... To me, it's surprising that Swatch is using the same retail model for their $10k+ watches and $300 watches. I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the Swiss isn't up with the times.