Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What helps with that is when finished winding the spring reverse wind a few whole turns to ensure it has fully released.Another help is to lightly lubricate the winding arbour.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, chrisdt said:

The other item in the auction was not named but consisted of a tube with finger grips. ten different size winders and ten different crank handles. Any help would be appreciated

The second set is similar to Bergeon mainspring winders.  There should be a matching handle for each of the mainspring adapters.  You select an adapter based on the size of the mainspring barrel into which it will fit.  Then pair the adapter to its winding handle.  The knurled grip is used to hold the adapter.  There is a long pin that locks the adapter to the knurled grip in a bayonet fashion.  You insert the arbor end of the mainspring onto the winding handle, insert the handle into the hole in the grip making sure the spring exits the slot in the adapter and then wind the spring into the adapter.  Carefully remove the winding handle once you've completed this step.  Then insert the adapter into the watch's mainspring barrel and press the button on top of the knurled grip.  This action will push the spring into the barrel at the same time cause the tool to release the spring.  

Review Mark's youtube video to get an idea of what I am talking about.  Hope that helps.

Edited by robmack
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hi everyone

 

I don't do watch repair as a job, but have been doing quite a bit on servicing my one watches and service / restore some wirst watches from family and friends.

 

What now seems to be obvious is that I've been taking some risk and having some 'sweat hands' moments when it gets to manual wind the mainspring back into the mainspring barrel.

 

Any advice of a mid-range set that could be good for amateur use, but with enough quality to last for upcoming years as an amateur? Any special features / characteristics that I must be aware of?

 

Many thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Just keep a close watch on everyone's favorite auction website.

I picked up a set which is aclone of the bergeon watch mainspring winders quite reasonably out of Queensland earlier this year.

The trick is to check every day and hope to be the first that spots the reasonably price BIN item.

As a tip to find them I regularly search using just the term 'watchmaker',  and then tick 'used' items but today I would suggest you search using the phrase 'watchmaker tool favourite'

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, keep an eye out for Bergeon (and Bergeon style) ones. Avoid buying sets which have all the useless sizes and none of the useful ones! You want somewhere vaguely around 9mm diameter for 11-12 ligne wristwatches.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi again,

I'm looking at a vintage Mainspring Winder (Robbins Type from Kendrick and Davis Co), but for barrels number 2-7. It refers to 'Barrel Dias' varying from .395 to .624. From what you guys mentioned previously I'm afraid that this could be for too small barrel measures. As an hobby, I normally service Seiko (7009, 7019, 6139) and various Swiss men's vintage from 1950 - 1980's.

Any thoughts if the above can the right winder measures?

Many thanks

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys and gals,
Now I know that this topic has been beaten to death but I am wondering what the latest concensus on hobbyist spring winding in 2017 is?

Is there a spring winder that I can find for under $50 somewhere? Or worst case <$100.

I have a tiny Omega 625 that has a broken spring, I have broken down the movement with no problems whatsoever, however my replacement spring didn't pop in so easily.
I then broke a tab off the end. Because it is such a small barrel, I can't hand wind it.... I get about 75% of the way in and it doesn't want to go in anymore.

I am winding in clockwise from the beginning of spring. I tried the other way as  some described but it doesn't work.


Youtube has failed me so far.

Cheers
Alex

Posted

If you see a "Master Craft" mainspring winder on eBay I highly recommend you purchase it. I paid approx. £30 for my one & I use it for practically all of my watch repairs. The smallest barrel size it goes down to is 7.5mm which is a small ladies watch. It is really easy to use and is 100% reliable. You wind the spring into its own transfer plate and insert the same way as when fitting a new spring. I have posted some pics 

 

IMG_0899.jpg

IMG_0931.jpg

IMG_0933.jpg

IMG_0936.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

 Hello,

I got the bergeon winders, but am having some issues

Blue steel spring from a waltham is getting jammed in the winder when I go to eject it into the barrel

Specifically, the end that hooks on the barrel wall is sliding between the brass wall of the winder and the steel plunger section

It happened 4 times in a row, and very annoying for the cost of these winders

Anyone else experienced this? or know how to stop it?

 

Edited by mikesomething
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

bump

i am still having tons of trouble with these

just destroyed a seiko spring trying to use the winders

i bought these in the hope that they would reduce the possibility of damage

so far, blue steel springs get jammed

unbreakable springs and automatics just end up looking like birds nests

worst money i have spent in a long time

Posted

Hi

Not that this is of any help to you, but I'm having real difficulty visualising this. My winders aren't Bergeon but are probably made in the same place (I doubt Bergeon actually make them). Anyway the fit between the wall of the winder and the steel plate is to such a small tolerance that there is no way the mainspring could slip into it, the gap is much narrower than any mainspring.

I've had other problems with the winders, the arbours being too big for example, but not this one. In the main they work well and help me re-insert mainsprings easily without deforming them. Sorry.

Stephen

Posted

Are these winders second-hand? The carbon steel plunger inside the brass barrel should be a close fit. There should not be enough room for a mainspring to slide through. 

If the brass barrel of the winder is very clean, it may be worth wiping it with a very thin film of grease to reduce friction. And don't push the winding tool hard into the mainspring barrel when plunging as it's not necessary. 

Posted

Just on a note to add for any mainspring winder.

If the spring you are winding up is considerably shorter than the gap between the plunger and the top of the winder the spring will not wind neatly up and you can have trouble ejecting it.

To fit this up you need to machine 2 washers that just fit inside the winder, one goes against the plunger, the other against the top of the winder. You will need to file a slot on the top winder so it will fit past the spring hook.

The idea is the washers will reduce the gap inside the winder to just slightly bigger than the spring you are winding up, so they need to be made to size to fit the springs.

An example of when to do this would be when fitting the mainspring to a Seiko 7006a, the spring size is 0.95 x .11 x 400 x 10 whilst the winder height gap is around 2.6mm.

I've never come across the issue you are having with your winder, if you can I would talk to the place you bought it from.

Posted

Hi All,  I have exhausted google and various pdf's on the Bergeon mainspring winder sets, and I have wasted enough money on ebay buying worn out vintage "universal" winders.

Does anyone know which Bergeon winder drum/arbor you need for the seiko 7s26 mainspring?  Any help here would be greatly appreciated!  Thank you, ,,,,,,Erik

Posted

I’ve found that for some Seiko mainspring it’s best to use a combination of one handle and another drum. The appropriate size drum has too wide of a post.

Anyway, my 2 cents.

May just have to do it by hand...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I know Seiko parts are not so easy to buy these days. Seiko back in the 70’s and 80’s advised, you should replace the barrel complete after (I think 5 or 7 years) you’re not supposed to take them apart. Its possible you will not find a winder that will fit.

  • Thanks 2
Posted
4 hours ago, fireftr45 said:

Hi All,  I have exhausted google and various pdf's on the Bergeon mainspring winder sets, and I have wasted enough money on ebay buying worn out vintage "universal" winders.

Does anyone know which Bergeon winder drum/arbor you need for the seiko 7s26 mainspring?  Any help here would be greatly appreciated!  Thank you, ,,,,,,Erik

There is no barrel supplied by Bergeon that fits the Seiko 7s26. If I remember correctly with the Bergeon set they are either too small or to large. I used a K&D winder that I usually use for the larger pocket watch barrels. Oldhippy is correct Seiko recommend a new barrel & mainspring. I have noticed Cousins have the mainspring as obsolete.

However I have done a little research & the consensus is the mainspring size required is:  0.95 x 0.12 x 400 x 10.5.

Which is ref: GR2378X

Cousins have this in stock.

  • Thanks 2
Posted

I had to service my Seiko, same callibre, worked the mainspring by hand. 

If you haven't seen this, keep in mind the barrel lid comes off a little differently to normal barrels, as shown.

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HI everyone Some context: I'm "in love" with old Timex. As someone who has always liked watches, I knew Timex (my first watch and another project) but, in fact, the brand had never really caught my attention. By pure chance I bought, in a set of two others watches, a small m24 that was sold as not working (run and stop), which actually started working by setting the date by manually moving the hands (15 days). This coincidence made me interested in its history, its reputation, simplicity/complexity of the movements and also because some were made in Portugal back in 70’s and 80’s. A few days later I found this beautiful 1975 Viscount, m33 (very low price, almost offered) and this is where I need your help.  It is in very good condition and works well (-20s per day is not a problem for me), and although the day of the week changes correctly, the date is "stuck" on the 10th. I live in a small town that only has one watchmaker and when I purchased this watch (and having read about these movements) I thought that since it was something theoretically "simple" (probably not related to the movement), he would easily solve the problem. I couldn't be more wrong. It was as if I had proposed a pact with the devil. He refused and said he wouldn't touch the watch (although he had serviced several of my watches before - Seikos and old Swiss brands). He suggested I wear the watch like this or trash it. As I mentioned in my presentation to the forum, I have some experience in digital watches, but in manual watches I am a complete beginner. I know how to remove hands, crowns and little else. I've been doing my homework, reading the technical manual and watching a few videos on YouTube. I think I can get to the part of removing the dial without any major problems. I know that in the Date Frame there is a wheel that at the top has a tab that activates the Day Wheel and that at the bottom activates the Date Lever My aim is to try not to ruin anything and  get the date working again. The help I needed (I intend to post photos) is that what should I expect? What are the most common problems that cause this system to get stuck (in this case just the date).   PS -  My secondary objective is to buy a strap at a overpriced value from the watchmaker just to rub it in his face that I managed to get the watch working properly. PS2 - In the photos you can see that before midnight the day of the week is already changing but the day of the month has not changed.   Sorry about the english. Best Regards Vasco  
    • What is it from and how did it become bent ? It should bend back - I would heat it whilst bending
    • Ha, same here. I just looked and I've lots of pictures of my cars, be hardly any of me - I have a face better suited for radio. I did find this from about 20+ years ago. I'm the young looking one at the back, under the front nozzle.  
    • I have a 6564 with me what is take a same tropic 12 crystal,most likely have the same parameters for the bezel. Do you need the measurement for that?
×
×
  • Create New...