Janta / Pearl Watch Cleaning Machine

[jdrichard]

12 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

My mentor taught me to reassemble the balance onto the main plate, with the jewels in place and run the cleaning machine for 5 minutes per pot and a 2 minute spin dry cycle between each pot. 

Final drying is 5 minutes with medium speed spin to circulate the hot air. The shellac came out fine.

Much appreciated for the answer. Even though the EE said rewire the machine, I will simply watch it with a extinguisher:)

[EScissorhands]

@Colditz

Hello Sir,

I got my Perl Supreme last week and did a check of the innards.

I was rather concerned that 230v AC (UK) was going through 20 gauge wire.
I've wired it up to a UK three pin plug with a 3 amp fuse and also used single socket surge protector before plugging it into the mains. I'm given to believe most surge protectors will work both ways. The idea being that if the Perl misbehaves it doesn't take out anything else.

But, I'd love to know the details on how you made yours safer please, if you have the time.

Anyone, the instructions also say to oil the bush every six months, does anyone know how to do that please?

Best regards,

Ed.   

[oldhippy]

I don't know much about this sort of thing but shouldn't you have a 13 amp fuse. 

[HectorLooi]

1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

Much appreciated for the answer. Even though the EE said rewire the machine, I will simply watch it with a extinguisher:)

If you got the 110V version, you should really check the wire gauge because the current is going to be double that of a 230V version.

I think a RCCB would be a better upgrade than a surge protector. 

[Plato]

56 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I don't know much about this sort of thing but shouldn't you have a 13 amp fuse. 

A 3A fuse is safer. 250V x 3A = 750W, I doubt it would ever use that much power unless it's faulty. 

[Plato]

Safer for the equipment, not the person operating it. 

[clockboy]

It runs on 13 amp. The heating is just a chamber and the basket just spins in the  heat for 5 mins. 

[jdm]

13 minutes ago, clockboy said:

It runs on 13 amp. The heating is just a chamber and the basket just spins in the  heat for 5 mins. 

13 Amps  could be the rating for wire or plug. As correctly noted above with 230V  the correct fuse should be 3 or 4 Amps.

[Plato]

35 minutes ago, clockboy said:

It runs on 13 amp. The heating is just a chamber and the basket just spins in the  heat for 5 mins. 

Everything will run on 13A. It's the old default fuse for electrical equipment. I think it's only useful for cookers as nothing else will ever consume that much current/power safely. 

[clockboy]

Sorry for the confusion what I should have said it just runs off a standard UK 13amp socket/plug. 

[jdrichard]

6 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

If you got the 110V version, you should really check the wire gauge because the current is going to be double that of a 230V version.

I think a RCCB would be a better upgrade than a surge protector. 

Thanks. I’m going to have a look at my wiring tomorrow and look and the wire gauge and fuse. Funny how many old school electronics I have plugged in over the last 10 yeas. Make sure the darn thing is grounded

[jdrichard]

Note that the current “AMPs” will only be what the motor and heater will draw from the mains. The plate said that the Pearl is rated for 0.5 Amps, however, I believe this was for the 230V version as you can see in the Plate. So the Amos for 120V would be around 1 Amp, correct?

[rodabod]

2 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

Note that the current “AMPs” will only be what the motor and heater will draw from the mains. The plate said that the Pearl is rated for 0.5 Amps, however, I believe this was for the 230V version as you can see in the Plate. So the Amos for 120V would be around 1 Amp, correct?

 

Correct.

[jdrichard]

6 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

If you got the 110V version, you should really check the wire gauge because the current is going to be double that of a 230V version.

I think a RCCB would be a better upgrade than a surge protector. 

So then the wiring needs to be rated for 2 Amps to be safe.  14 Gauge will take 5.9 amps and the smaller 20 Gauge will take a max of 1.5 Amps. I think I am safe, but I will check the wire gauge.

[jdrichard]

Here is the information plate for an Elma machine. It says 1 amp 110 volts.  However, I would hope that it's considering the power drawn from the heater unit at the same time it is drawn from the motor as you typically would turn on the heater unit prior to the last cycle

Edited October 30, 2021 by jdrichard

[jdrichard]

Also, just purchased a serge protector with a 15A circuit breaker that I’ll plug it into.

[jdrichard]

Here are some pictures of the wiring 

[jdrichard]

17 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

If you got the 110V version, you should really check the wire gauge because the current is going to be double that of a 230V version.

I think a RCCB would be a better upgrade than a surge protector. 

So from my pictures, this device has a 2amp 250v breaker, and I am in Canada 120 volts and I assume that I will draw 1.1 Amps. Does this breaker even matter?

Edited October 30, 2021 by jdrichard
More info

[jdm]

On 10/30/2021 at 2:41 PM, jdrichard said:

Does this breaker even matter?

I don't think it does but if it's there already leave it in place. 

When dealing with devices having a metal case human safety is provided by GFI breakers in the electrical cabinet or in the wall socket, not fuses and the like. 

[HectorLooi]

1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

So from my pictures, this device has a 2amp 250v breaker, and I am in Canada 120 volts and I assume that I will draw 1.1 Amps. Does this breaker even matter?

I think that breaker is a resettable fuse. If there is an overload, this breaker will trip and interrupt the circuit. It's either an auto-reset or manual reset, whereby there is button that pops out.

[GuyMontag]

On 10/29/2021 at 7:28 AM, Colditz said:

If anyone wants details on how to get their machine safe please ask.

Detail would be much appreciated, although I'm not sure how much of it I will understand Pictures might be helpful if you have any.

[gary17]

hey guys

finally got this motor open but now i am stuck.

In pic two,  the wires that are inside going to the bushes????(i think thats what you call em)

the same wires go into the magnets (i think thats what they are????????)

Now in pic one then two wires come out of the magenets .

Am i right in thinking that is were the wires should be connected to the power source (the electricity) or am i about to have to make a insurance claim????

any help appreciated.

cheers

gary

 

[watchweasol]

Hi Gary    The commutator on the motor shaft  (armature) looks dirty and will be better for s clean,  The magnets (field coils,.   stator) are the laminiations through which the current flows creating a magnetic field driving the moor shaft    The following video explains the theory.  Its known as a universal motor.  

 

[Plato]

26 minutes ago, gary17 said:

hey guys

finally got this motor open but now i am stuck.

In pic two,  the wires that are inside going to the bushes????(i think thats what you call em)

the same wires go into the magnets (i think thats what they are????????)

Now in pic one then two wires come out of the magenets .

Am i right in thinking that is were the wires should be connected to the power source (the electricity) or am i about to have to make a insurance claim????

any help appreciated.

cheers

gary

 

I think that bit is the commutator:

content://com.android.chrome.FileProvider/images/screenshot/16357151459631601770686.jpg

[jdrichard]

7 minutes ago, Plato said:

I think that bit is the commutator:

content://com.android.chrome.FileProvider/images/screenshot/16357151459631601770686.jpg

This reminds me of my old EE machines class. Did I tell you I hated synchronization of motors to make all three phases light up. Went into Electronics