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Hi John and welcome to the asylum, I think you will fit in rather well !

Reading the responses, I would say everyone is right in their own way. I was taught to always use breaking grease on the inside of the barrel walls, oil around the arbor and a little oil on the mainspring. Because inside the barrel the mainspring moves, so contact is made on the spring and to prevent rubbing of the spring the oil will prevent this from happening. Except with Seiko mainsprings, in my time back in the 70’s & 80’s you would replace the whole unit. That is what Seiko recommended; I think every 5 years it was recommended. Not always the case even then not all were available. For those auto springs it was suggest to use a graphite type grease, this would be put inside the barrel wall, between the arbor and spring and over the spring, so when the spring coils moved the compound would work itself between the coils of the spring to prevent rubbing. A dry spring can cause what is known as barrel bound. That is when the spring cannot unwind, a little lube can prevent this from happening. I’m not saying it always causes this situation, there are many others as well.

Hi, just joined this forum as I'm branching out from my previous collecting of early Seiko analogue quartz watches to the lesser loved electro mechanical 'missing link' watches of the 1960's, before the quartz revolution...... I am a retired mechanical design engineer who started his working life as an apprentice scientific instrument maker for a now long defunct company called 'Hilger & Watts', more years ago than I care to remember.. I discovered the 'joys' of tinkering with watch movements about 5 years ago and have resurrected quite a few since then, my wife is beginning to think that I'm certifiable . John....

Family have bought me these for christmas. Can't play with them until the big day.

Read it and it was really funny. Perhaps I should dip the movement in Rustcheck. It does not conduct electricity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Another one below brought brought back to life with WD40 LoL It's a Sunon China apparently not distributed as spare. You would have to measure "everything" to see if something can replace it. It could be this https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?SearchTerm=PE702M# I can't believe that a so-called luxury brand is so greedy to chose the cheapest module ever, I think it's just a fake.

Thank you kind Sir and merry Christmas to you also. Rogart63 is a gentleman and has helped me out with parts which has been and is appreciated.

coincedently, i just yesterday i recived a box from Essengers. i was going to post a pic's, but i better step out and drop a Christmass tree. merry Christmass to all. vin

Hi John I think that most of us on here fit into that catagory. I think the mental insability is refered to Horologalgia. No known cure but can be stabalised by purchasing more watches or clocks. Withdrawl symptoms include tuneless humming, drumming of idle fingers or in exreem cases looking at a watch and talking to it. At this point the wife moves into another room.

This form of insanity must have a clinical name...I wonder if I could claim it as a disability.

Hi Mark know the area well got a mate in connisborough, and dia lot of work in sheffield.

a tip for when you insert the seconds hand is to rest the backside movement on a coin. this prevents the pinion from retracting down. Notice how it is held in by the spring clip.

and that is a #22

perhaps you need a young lady to answer the phone? vin

Shock protection...17 jewels...what's not to like?

Certainly not a landeron 48. No column wheel on the 48 series. I'm working on one here currently. (54) Could be an earlier calibre though certainly.

Leave them alone, just oil the pivot. Get some junk 7S26 to try remove and set and you'll understand why.

I've used enamel paint (as you'd just get from a model shop) with good results. I suspect the lacquer you've found is the same thing ... but perhaps thinned to a consistency that makes it easier to apply. When painting you want to do it in one stroke; don't be tempted to go back and fiddle as you'll be less likely to get a smooth finish. One coat is usually fine but if you think you need a second wait until the first is fully dried first.

Its a early Landeron possibly a Calibre 13, only way to identify for sure would be a pic of the keyless works, Eberhard in my experience from a number of years ago are a very good company to deal with if you require parts they will supply if they have them in stock, they also seem to have good factory records so if you contact them with the serial number they may be able to help.

Unfortunately quartz modules are quite unpredictable, they may work for decades or mysteriously quit anytime. Also unfortunate is that the module used in your watch, Miyota 6760 doesn't seem to be available from known sources, but you could ask Invicta customer service about. I can only see that a replacement circuit is available for $84 from Julius Borel. If a reputable watchmaker could confirm with the proper testing that is indeed the faulty part, that could fix it. But I'm talking in theory and don't take any responsibility. Some testing procedures are in the attached technical document. 6760.pdf

Hi and welcome from another former Yorkshireman who is now in Scotland. As above, hope the severe weather hasn't affected you.

Hi Mark welcome to the forum from another tyke, Lived in Tadcaster for 40yrs then moved to Scotland , where are you located.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. You have some very bad weather around parts of Yorkshire. Hope its not to bad around you.

Hi Mark, welcome to the forum.

there are penitrating oils available for metal. after useing that, wash the parts and add the proper viscosity OIL . plastic parts - i don't know, may be silicon spray? wd 40 - a waxy, oily spray, good for ?? vin