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Just finished this the other day and had to wear it. Got the casino/poker feel and I wish I had the gold medallion and robins egg blue tracksuit to go with it. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Unfortunately I've interacted with a few such sellers of watch parts lately, all with strange or bad communication skills. I'm not talking about bad language or anything like that but some people would reply to my first email and then go completely mum if I sent a follow-up with a few more details or requesting info about other parts as well (which would basically mean even more money for them). I don't know why that is but whenever people ask me questions I always answer them as best as I can...

Good to hear your are so positive . It probably will come in a few days. Just me that is a little nervous. Have been searching a long time and finally selected this case for a Valjoux 7734 movement i have. So really want it to come. And was thinking of buying a dial from the same seller. But think i chose some other seller for that. Asked them a few times which diameter of the dial the case took. But no answer on that either. So need it to come before i order a dial.

The 7546 is very similar to a mechanical 6309. It happens to be the first Quartz movement I serviced, and it was ok (I had already done plenty of 6309, so the dial side felt familiar!) otherwise I would say a 955.112 is a good choice, because you find it in so many watches. There are plenty of spare movements on ebay should you need spares. There is also the usual ETA service manual, so you know exactly what to do with lubrication, orde of assembly etc...

Hi Rogart, I wouldn't worry too much. If you look at the companies reviews, the experience you are having is quite normal! By all accounts the owner is gruff and opens and closes the shop whenever it suits him, but has vast stocks of normally unobtainable parts. One of the reviews said "painfully slow delivery" so at least you know that you have not been singled out for special treatment LOL.

I used them a couple of years ago to purchase a genuine Rolex mainspring. It was pricey & delivery was very slow. But it was the only supplier I could find that sold genuine Rolex mainsprings

Try using this website as an alternative. It gathers the best data. Sometimes more info than that from the actual courier. Try to fill in all the spaces required. https://en.trackitonline.ru/? It takes a few days for something to get processed when it gets into the country. Maybe give it a few more days and only afterwards see what's up... It doesn't look like a shady website.

Thanks for the advice. I've just taken the balance+ jewels out. The pics are before re-cleaning. It looks like there could be some muck on the shoulder of the lower pivot. Could be hardened oil that's worked loose. Would explain the drop in amplitude after a couple of days. I'll clean it and see.

I've yet to service any quartz movements and I'm looking recommendations on a few different calibers to practice on. I've read that the Seiko 7546 is meant to be a good one to learn on, so will look at chasing one of those up, but I'm also looking for a Swiss movement to practice on too. Does anyone have a recommendation?

Bought some batteries for this just for kicks - got it for my birhday in about 1982. I don’t think I’ve worn since the millennium as I had to set the date to 1978 to get it to show the right day. 2017 was not an option, but neither was 1917, so less of a millennium bug and more built in obsolescence...

Problem solved I think... I thought the movement can be hand wound but I don't think it can. I think i was charging the alarm spring rather than the main spring... Oh dear... Lots more to learn hehe...

Ok so I pulled out the pinion from the center wheel. Took a bit of force. Should I just clean these 2 parts or must they be lubricated as well ? The pinion slides into the center wheel with resistance...

Nice watch! With regards to the pushers. Methinks you don't have a watch with one pusher sticking too far out. Instead you have one with the pusher stuck halfway down. I would recommend a good clean of the case and pushers/crown for a start. I don't know how capable you are with regards to watches but a general clean-up is well within the capabilities of someone with basic watchmaking tools. You need to get the watchback off first, then remove the crown (if I remember correctly the button is accessible thru a hole in the plate) paying attention to the spring and gear which turns the inner ring.. these should come out with the crown/stem assembly. You then have to press both pushers in a bit and while applying pressure remove the movement spacer. Once the ring is out the pushers will pull away as the movement ring is the only thing holding them in. Once the pushers and crown are out of the watch the movement will just drop out of the case so be careful not to drop it. A good way is to place a movement pad (or a round thingy) on the rear of the watch, flip the whole thing over and lift the case off, leaving the movement sitting on the movement pad. Once you have the pushers and crown out of the case you can use some sharpened pegwood to remove bits of DNA from the recesses of the crown and pushers. Work on a piece of clean paper you can throw away later as it can get pretty dirty. Once you've got them clean you can use some Zippo fluid or similar to flush them out followed by a final pass thru with fresh pegwood. Put them aside for the moment. Next remove all the springbars from the strap and examine them and replace if they're rusty or bent. Seikos usually have good springbars but neglect and wear can ruin them. The clasp may have a fixed bar instead of a spring bar on the end where you pull so don't worry if you can't get it off. Just try to pull it apart and if it holds then its good. Once the parts are out give them a good scrub with soap and water (only the strap parts! not the case!). Hot water helps and if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner so much better. Next pay attention to the case, especially around the holes where the pushers and crown goes..there will be some dirt in there as well. Clean them up followed by cleaning the area where the watchband goes. Next go around the watch exterior cleaning everything. The o-ring will probably be as hard as a rock and you will probably break it when trying to remove it. There is no escaping this as this is a common area for rust. You will need some o-rings and some silicon oil on reassembly here. ebay usually has some acceptable parts or watch factors may be able to help. The gap between crystal and crystal ring can be cleaned with a sharp pegwood.. likewise the seam between crystal ring and case. Amazing how much dirt accumulates. Finally use a clean soft tissue to wipe the inside of the crystal and blow out with your puffer tool thing to remove the dust from the tissue. If you are tempted to polish out the case with autosol or similar..be careful around the edges as sharp edges are a key point in maintaining the value of the watch. Now get rid of the paper with all the dirt and replace with a fresh one. You now rebuild the watch starting by lowering the case onto the movement (which you have perched on the suitable round thing), This is easier to manage than dropping the movement into the case. Once lowered, flip the case, movement, round thing over as a unit and remove the round thing. Next lightly oil the seal on the pushers with some silicon oil and insert them into the case. If they seem tight swap them around and see if that helps. So now you have the case loose in the movement and the pushers in their tube, applying light pressure (not enough to activate the chrono mech) on both pushers, reinstall the movement ring, making sure it seats fully in its recess and then remove pressure on the pushers. Next oil the crown o-ring with some silicon oil and insert the crown/stem back into its place. It should click nicely with no drama as long as the movement is lined up correctly with the hole in the case. Finally get the new o-ring into its groove having first oiled it with some silicon grease and re-install the caseback followed by the freshly cleaned strap. This is as far as you can go without access to new parts and some more advanced skills. The problem with these Seikos is basically the hands.. or to be more specific, the seconds hand. Chronos need a seconds hand which can be indexed to the pinion so the relationship between the two does not change. Seiko does this by having a flat side machined on the end of the seconds pinion. A new seconds hand deforms when installed and so will not move. Pattern parts are available but I've heard some horror stories on the quality. New old stock (NOS) may come up for sale but at high prices. Used seconds-hand will not work as the flat on the pinion is not in the same place on every seconds pinion. Assuming you have managed to secure a new seconds hand, it needs to be installed with some force, enough to get it down the pinion, deforming as it goes. As you're pushing it down you need to ensure the pinion does not move. The proper movement holder has pushers which allow you to press the reset button in while pressing the new seconds hand down to ensure it is exactly on the '0'. The movement itself is pretty simple as far as chronographs go. If it looks clean when you open it up I would say its ok for an occasional watch. On these watches a typical sign it needs a service is if the watch stops with the second hand at the 58 seconds mark or thereabouts. If you're planning to use it more often then a service by someone who knows what they're doing is required. Restoration with aftermarket parts is possible but I believe these unmolested examples are more sought after now. A notch case denotes an early watch but the 'water-resist dial means it is not the earliest as the very early ones had 'water-proof' on the dial. The crystal is polishable but I think its better done by a proffessional. There are some experts on polishing crystals here so maybe they could comment? Enjoy your Seiko.. Anilv

Hi Anilv , i have had some Seikos with Japanese engravings and I kinda like them . It gives interest to the watch .

***Sorry the text went missing the first time round and edit didn't work*** Wearing a Seiko automatic from the 70s today. The caseback starts with 77xxxx so its either from July 77 or Aug 77 as production of the 7xxx series of movement spanned more than 20 years. I'm betting on '77 based on the design of the case. Anyway it a pretty run of the mill Seiko, not even a '5'on the dial to make things interesting. The dial finishing gives a 'Geneva stripes'' effect but that's about it. The Daini logo is discreet to the point that its practically invisible. On the caseback, however is some engraving which gives this watch some character. Instead of a name or initial to mark a life event, it has ÇOMPLIMENTS FROM JT SENG and the year 1978. In asia Chinese names start with the family name followed by the given name (often in two parts) and could it be that Mr Seng Jxx Txxx gave this watch as a present (Chinese New Year)? Probably from a boss to his team as there is no name which you would expect on a gift to an individual on an occasion like retirement etc. I googled the name for fun and came up with this. An electronics store in Kuala Lumpur called JT Seng. I would imagine that this company gave it as a gift to its staff during say Chinese New Year as it is the typical time of year to reward employees but cash is more common (and more appreciated I guess!). Interesting to note that the watch took at least 6 months from the factory to leaving the shelf. Of course if it was a Christmas present it would have sat for at around 18mths! I'm neither for or against casebacks with engravings but in this case the engraving gives some history to an otherwise humdrum watch. Anilv

Thanks for the replies. I remonted it on the movement and used a stake to loosen the stud and the used an oiler to push it out the rest of the way. All is good for now. Thanks

So long as you have your rabbits foot, white heather and a black cat crossing your path, on a Sunday with a blue moon, it’ll work every time. Otherwise, no Good luck Neil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if you are turning steel and the chips are blue, its too hot and may harden. vin

Then the movement has to be taken apart. I recommend you do not try to do by yourself before having acquired all the necessary tools and oils, and practiced on broken, worthless quartz movements.

Thanks Mark. I did purchase a foot petal from china and it seems to have 5 rheostat steps, each providing more speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Will be wearing this one today IF I'd doesn't rain

Rolex charge £600+ and take 4 months to return the watch.As an independent I charge £350 and return within 2-3 weeks maximum. I was told from a very highly qualified watchmaker when I was starting out 1) Don’t be too cheap or the customer will think your work will be sub standard. 2)Don’t be too quick or the customer will think your work will be sub standard Wise words that have served me well. I always give a 12 month guarantee but never give a guarantee on water resistance. I do, however, tell the customer whether the pressure test passed or failed. To date, it’s never been an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing to be sorry about . That is a true beauty to look at .

You’ll need a bit of practice before you tackle this one probably. Beautiful watch, I love it. You asked about differences between 6139-6002and 6139-6009... 6139 refers to the movement, so you know both watches have the same workings. 6002 and 6009 are both 600x case styles, the last digit tells you that 6002 was destined for Europe and 6009 is one of the USA ones I think. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not sure why the day is half showing But could be that it doesn't sit properly in the movement. You shift the day by pressing the crown inwards. Does the inner bezel moves when you turn the crown? A service is probably what it needs in the future. good thing that the chronograph is working . Then you now that the chronograph wheel is okay. Almost everything else is obtainable.

It certainly looks like it needs a service. If you service it you've got one hell of a watch!

Nice one. Looks okay to me. The upper pusher is a shorter version. That is to short. Gummed up pushers is usually gaskets that is sticky. New gaskets you can find on Ebay or from VTA . Other then that it looks like it's original. https://thespringbar.com/blogs/guides/the-seiko-6139-600x-collectors-guide