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This curious little ladies pendant watch was manufactured long before transparent Swatches arrived on the scent. I'm going to guess this is from the late 1950s or early 1960s, but it is difficult to tell, as the caliber looks older, perhaps 1940s. There is quite a lot of wear on the acrylic and the plating, and since it is not shock protected, there is a pretty high chance the balance pivots may be damaged, but even if it proves unrepairable it is still quite an interesting piece.

New Noob Daytona V4 with 4130 movement it didn’t come from watch time it’s the only pic I found. also a Franck Muller Vanguard yachting anchor skeleton. Gotta change the band on that one. I Think blue leather with white stitch. They Should be here in a couple weeks

Here is a clock that belonged to my great Aunt who likely bought it in France in the latte 19th century when she lived over there. It has been displayed in my home for a long time and now I am servicing it. The clock was serviced four previous times by a person who also did clock work for my Dad's business. He was a machinist and quite skillful, but I am somewhat disappointed by the work I see here. Moreover, he marked it serviced four times over an eleven year period. That seems excessive to me. So, it is a bit of a mystery. Anyway, I am showing pictures of the tear down here. I have cleaned it, and it is reassembled and running--in test phase. I will post other pictures later. Because of the warnings I received here, I did not use ammoniated cleaner. Instead, I used Dawn soap in water in an ultrasonic, and then rinsed in alcohol (not the drinkable kind!). Not so pretty of a result, so I did use Brasso on the back plate...the one that will be visible. Then I did another clean in the ultrasonic with an alcohol bath. The regulator on the ones I have seen has a spring detent on the regulator sprocket. It was not present on this clock. A fella gave me a box of French clock movements like this, so I pinched the detent from one of those. It looks factory now...and works properly.

Front view

I'm loving this place (so far) and I certainly don't envy the volunteer moderators, it's just that there are better ways of dealing with things. Granted, it's certainly easier to toss every post that vaguely relates to an already pinned post but come on, after 7 years and 25 pages of not really replies, some of the pinned posts here ought to be retired in favor of FAQ's. There could even be a requirement for reading FAQ's before posting. With AI being implemented in all sort of new and interesting ways a post could be scanned for a covered topic and put on hold until the OP read the FAQ. I realize that message board s/w may not be there yet but just think how much less whining we'd need to hear from those who find it beneath their station in life to answer a simple question. When a brand-new-to-the-hobby person asks (for the millionth time) about what oils do I need, rather than dumping their question on top of 7 years worth of replies wouldn't it be easier to refer to a FAQ? I've been a message board moderator and I know that it's a thankless job, so to everyone of the moderators here: THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU... It could be better.

Minor correction is as far as I can tell it's only one moderator and he's not even listed as a moderator but he is the moderator. Then yes the combining of subjects is something that will make you grumpy. For instance I get an email they've replied I go there and it's gone? Then you have to make a decision as to whether you want to try to figure out where the heck it's gone to. It be nice if the message board would have a way of redirecting you to wherever your discussion has gone to as opposed to trying to find it.

When I was in school this was the textbook we used definitely a good book to have. Another interesting book to get is the bench practice book. I have the title page and the table of contents as it came in many versions which represents a problem. I've known a people purchasing it and you notice on the table of contents that some sections don't have numbers I'm guessing it's because this is the later version of this section got inserted in. So view of an earlier version you just not going to have that section at all. The one section I marked fixing bents hairsprings not that hairsprings ever get Damaged in watches but just in case they do it's a nice section on how to deal with that. Then having actually met Henry definitely a very interesting person.

@KarlvonKoln And here I thought your idea might have been to delete all of the pinned posts with hundreds of replies (many of which are by the same person saying the same thing over and over and getting grumpy about it) and replace them with pinned FAQ documents.

Been thinking this morning about a clever snarky response, but my mind is blank. They make great tubs for parts during disassembly.

I like this watch. It is a decent example of my preferences. My taste in aesthetics tend to lean toward VWacthie's most of the time. I do think a quality watch should be pleasing to look at, because they convey their information to us largely by sight. But whenever a watchmaker can make a watch with multiple useful complications, and still make it easily readable (at a glance when possible) then he has made an art and science combined. It takes skill to arrange the mechanism in such a way that all things which it can show us are plain to see, rather than overlapping awkwardly. Form following function often brings its own kind of beauty.

So oops I've been on ebay again and bought some more watches mainly for the parts Seiko 5 I think there are two. I plan to restore those two Seiko 5's should receive them next week. I'm house bound at the moment " COVID " Yep the wife caught it from a 'of all things' at a medical meeting and has been lock in the bed room since Sunday But I now have it. I have had 4 booster jab's last one 11 day's ago O'well it's got me lets hope it's going to be just like having a cold

Has everyone calmed down now ?

I think a two-tiered system would work. What if the newbies were limited to a FAQ heavy area that included the collected wisdom of the group on lubrication, screwdrivers, time graphers, etc... and they weren't allowed into the big boys area until they showed they actually were going to stick around and contribute? @JohnR725 also said: Because no one is ever going to read through a multipage discussion... In the last weeks I've read through some of the 25 page threads because I was embarrassed that perhaps the answer actually was buried there. Usually it is but getting to it is pretty painful.

I'm starting to get the feeling that I might be wise to move on from trying to fix 100 year pocket watches that require more then a new mainspring or good cleaning. Out of 12 movements I purchased since Jan/2022 off of eBay, I've only been able to get 5 in working order--the rest have proven more challenging due to limited parts availability and/or my lack of skills with more advanced tools beyond a staking set. I did reach out to Otto Frei and they have one of the jewels I need (bottom jewel for escape wheel), but I also need bottoms for the fourth wheel and pallet (working on three different movements). So at this point can't justify investing in a Seitz tool if I can't find the parts and/or make them myself. Thanks Levine98

The question you didn't ask obviously if the jewel is too big that would be an issue worst case you could damage the fork. Too small I doubt it's going to damage anything but? You're probably going to see a loss of amplitude because it would change how the escapement's working. In other words it changes the timing of things as the roller jewel is hitting the fork and unlocking the escapement there'd be a delay of the fork pushing on the roller jewel giving its energy. That would cause a loss of amplitude.

The Daniels book essentially tells you how to make your own watch, from scratch using a lathe and cutting your own gear teeth. That said it doesn't really spend a lot of time on how one might design their own movement but if you need to know how to cut (and undercut) your own screws for a balance wheel, he's your guy.

Eyup matey. Yup I nearly bought one of those, but then a binocular scope popped up on ebay and I grabbed it quick. I don't think I could do without it now, I think most folk on here like the bi scopes, although I did here Mark mention on a vid he prefers loupes. It's what you are used to I suppose. I'm about ready for an upgrade now, as field of view isn't that great at only 20mm or so . If you're in no rush wait out something will come up, it always does.

Hi David the DGMS is a German patent the trademark Schlenker-Kienzle registered 06-10-1889 Re-registered 1889.

something like one of these?

I apologize for my missing that the OP's post was in the "Introduction" section. I just saw it in the recent posts at the right of the page. Let me add my "welcome" to the rest. They really are a helpful bunch, assembled from around the world, that frequent the site. Enjoy your new foray into the world of watches. Again, best of luck with the Benrus. Cheers.

ign30, I just scored an incredible deal on those types of winders myself although they came with a handle. In messing around with some scrappers and installing and removing mainsprings, I found you don't really need a handle for them to work as it only makes it easier to hold onto while winding. You have access to the plunger to eject the mainspring into the barrel once its wound into the winding drum. So in a pinch or until you get a handle for the RH or LH winders, you still can wind mainsprings with just the crank arbor and winder drum.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

Welcome to WRT forum.

I think you might be referring to this video:

Hi again @Neverenoughwatches Information on Ebosa is sparse and Ackro doesn't appear in Mikrolisk's comprehensive list of trademarks. There's some basic information at https://watch-wiki.org/index.php?title=Ebosa_S.A. if you let your browser take the strain on translation. Could the 'RG' signify R.Glocker since this family owned Ebosa? Maybe to confirm you have an Ebosa - and assuming this is a 10.5 ligne* sized movement too - then take a look at the keyless works. [*Bestfit lists the 65 as a 10.5 ligne movement but Ranfft indicates it also came in an 11.5 ligne size]. This is the silhouette of the keyless works from Bestfit: You ask if I've worked on this movement type ... and I don't believe I have. However given your post history on this forum indicating a good experience level I don't think this movement will throw up challenges. Just take pics as you go along in the disassembly since information is clearly sparse. Noting that Cousins does stock a few parts for the Ebosa.

Hello and welcome to the forum enjoy

Forgot to ask what's then sour cream for ?

@HectorLooiyou can try flipping the balance cock over and press the stud down a bit to loosen the stud with a jeweling tool and a flat punch. You would need a staking block with small holes as the “anvil”. You can then press it out again from the reverse direction if it’s loosened.

By coincidence, I've just been dealing with a couple of electronic watches over the past couple of days. I know that the Benrus uses movement made by ESA, probably an ESA9154 in yours. That's a 12 ligne version of the transistorized electronic watch. It's the same movement that was used by Wittnauer, Elgin, Waltham, even Hamilton, when electronic movements were the rage. I happen to like them. They are usually very seventies looking, and the movements use a circuit board, coil, and mechanical balance wheel to keep time. It is true that the proper battery (1.35V) is no longer available, at least in any great numbers. The correct battery to use today would probably be a #344/SR1136SW. While they do have a higher voltage rating (1.55V), they do seem to work. In fact, I just put a 394 (1.55V) in mine by accident, and while it was of a smaller diameter, the thickness was similar and the watch is working fine right now. I'll order a couple of 344's soon. Even if the battery does get it running, it would probably be a good idea to get it cleaned and oiled. While there's not a lot of torque on the wheels, they do a lot of spinning, and should not be run dry in the jewels for long periods, the way a battery will power a watch. JMHO. If the battery doesn't get it running, be aware that a common failure on these (Again, taking it for granted that yours is an ESA 9150 series.) is the coil goes open circuit. Anyway, I hope you get it (Benrus Citation?) running soon. Enjoy. Benrus Citation with ESA9157 Post with ESA 9154 (The post on the 9154 says he has a 9150, but I believe that it's a 9154, as the 9150 seems to have 4 contact points on the coil rather than the 3 the 9154 has.)

Last night I tried getting the hairspring stud out of the hole again but it was really tight. I didn't want to risk damaging anything in case I the tool slipped, so I aborted the mission. I'll try again tonight after applying some acetone and WD40 to loosen things up. I don't think the stud is friction fitted, as a large gap is visible around it. Also, there is a groove in the stud for the retaining screw. I tried @Nucejoe suggestion of flipping the endstone. It definitely works. So I'll leave it for the moment until my skill level catches up with the problem.

Wow you must be my brother from another mother. My grandfather was born the same year and my daughter Is named after my grandmother. Sorry the suba was a predictive misspelling. I'll post it up tomorrow.

When I got my Zenith I wasn't sure if my dial was cut or stamped (I'm still not sure but I suspect stamped). I lived in Pennsylvania from 1967 through 1980 and was surprised that such a boutique watch works was "right down the street" from where I lived. While RGM does enhance and case other movements they've also designed some of their own. Somewhere there is a video of their rose engine work - I think learning to decorate with a rose engine would be therapeutic.

Hi all, check these animated disassembley and assembly videos. Great for educational purposes.

Having worked in the CAD/CAM industry for 25 years, I liked this animation. I watched it with the sound off.

As long a the primary focus is function I don't mind aesthetics one bit, quite the contrary. It can be extremely satisfying to enjoy. However, aesthetics (like a golden dragon on the dial) without function, no matter how beautiful and well executed, just isn't my cup of tea.

Thanks for sharing! It would seem to me that Arnold & Son has a very different approach to watches than a manufacturer such as for example German Sinn. "Functionality is our top priority and ultimately determines the design. Only the technical features that are really needed can be found on our watches" ~Lothar Schmidt, Owner of Sinn Watches It's really amazing to see all this diversity in design and approach to watches. Personally I have a typical Sinn mentality. If a feature of watch is only there for aesthetical reasons or to show off technical brilliance it just doesn't resonate that much with me.

I have nothing to show at the moment. It's stowed away in a drawer. This was when I just fixed the brushless sewing machine motor to the lathe bed. I'm only using for odd jobs and practice at the moment.

I have a lathe, a K&D balance staff remover, staking set, etc... My mentor has been bugging me to do a staff replacement and cutting a staff from scratch. I've done some practice staffs but not an actual one yet. Probably when I have my lathe permanently setup with a microscope overhead, then I'll do more lathe work.

This is exactly the kind of "Mumbai Special" test that my mentor prescribes. When I tell him about all the problems I find in the watch, he'll say, "Good! Now go and fix it".

As this is a single roller it was probably held In with shellac at least at one time it's probably washed off or disintegrated with time. Whenever you lose a roller jewel you should always search the movement if you're lucky you might find it. And yes some watch companies much later on like in the 40s when they change the production methods did use friction jewels but not a single roller like this. You also have to be careful with which assortment you get because American pocket watches used two different lengths of roller jewel's depending upon whether was a single roller or a double roller. So basically out to find an assortment that has the longer length of jewels that you need for the single roller escapement's. Which is becoming harder and harder fine for the large size pocket watches. Then just for future reference they do make special tools for sizing roller jewel's. Plus I threw in a few more pictures of what the tools would look like even though you didn't need the tools. More for future reference

That is very kind of you, and I may take you up on it if things do not go well. So far, I have been able to remove the micrometer screw from the body, but not without some cosmetic damage to the scale (clumsy use of grips) and the paint (hot air gun). @HectorLooiyou were right on the money with the dried up grease. That's what it looked like to me, anyway. A tiny amount of residue, but because the thread is such a precise fit, it was enough. Now I am working on the markers (stuck all the way down, with very little to grip on; the 4.0mm collet in the lathe just slips off). Any ideas? Now they are soaking in WD-40 for a week, while visit my parents. Also not moving freely is the micrometer zeroing screw in the chromed cap. If anyone can explain how the component parts of that work, or has photos of a disassembled one, that would be a great help.

I'm waiting on a Buren 10.5 Grand Prix similar to this one. While the one coming is a sidewinder, I'm not certain that the dial/numerals are the same. Will post shots once it arrives (possibly as soon as this Saturday 16 APR).

I show "Texas" and Texas is a country!!

It would be nice if we just knew the home country of where people were as answers can change depending upon your country. Like when you're looking for material the resources available in different countries very. The only problem with the time schedule is it assumes that the person is maintaining something resembling a normal time schedule and not hopelessly out of sync with the world like some of us are. So for instance at 3 AM I'm unfortunately typically awake. Then I was really happy I slept in past 12 Today as it was nice and quiet out there.

Hi Having the caliber number would be helpful. Just below the corner of the balance cock there is a makers mark and caliber number, can you post it please it may help members to determine the make and battery type, Have a look at Ranfft ESA 9154 as I think its a ESA movement and the 9154 looks pretty close. Origional battery was a 343 mercury now replaced with the 344 silver oxide.

If you want to get into manual watch repairing I always suggest you start with a pocket watch, they’re a lot bigger than a standard manual watch movement, you learn how to take it to pieces and put it back, you don’t need to bother about repairing it just practice, this will help you in using your screwdrivers and tweezers. Get to know what the parts are called. Do not work on fusee pocket watches, as those are completely different to manual watches

This is not the best type to start of with. It is fundementaly a two plate construction that will make reassembly very difficult indeed when it comes to aligning the drive train pinions. A far better choice would be to go for a movement that consists of separate bridges and balance c o c k. This type is a lot easier to work on because you do not have so many pinions to align at the same time. Also it is easier to asses the free running of the components as you go.

Then you want to look for an ETA 6498 or 6497 or maybe a Hamilton 917, 921, 923, 945...