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While not ideal - I am pretty pleased with the results of just cleaning. It should have both end-stones replaced - as both have divots in them. And should have a new mainspring. Here is the original timegrapher trace... It couldn't decipher much from the sounds it was getting. Here is the trace now... Again, not ideal - but compared to where it started - and with the known parts issues - I am pretty happy with it. Dial side after reassembly (before dial and case)... Reverse... And cased... I did polish out the crystal a bit - and cleaned up the case - but didn't want to polish (the case) given the appearance of the hands. Too much age showing there for a polished case. I'll replace the mainspring and end-stones if I can figure out what parts I need and find them available for reasonable money. If not, it's still in operating condition. Can be wound, worn, and appreciated. Thanks to all for comments - any suggestions on the end-stones and mainspring would be greatly appreciated. -Paul

There ya go... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Hi *, Originally I did not introduce myself thinking noone is really interested who I am but after a few months and after receiving so many friendly advice and comments I felt i must do it. The story is started with this one: WWW Eterna I knew absolutely nothing about clocks and watches apart from the fact that they do show the time and you can overwound them. Now i am on level 3 with the course and I have already serviced a few watches and clocks. I seem to like clocks more than watches but time will decide. I want to live a 1000 years to see all type of clocks and watches and to try all the food we have on this globe. Id like to learn more about clocks and watches and I would love to have the experience with them but I have a very limited time I can spend with them, anyway I am going to be the new Tompion. If you find a WWW watch in the dirt let me know I am interested in buying it. I am Hungarian but living in UK, Cambridgeshire so I am not just breaking the pivots, but English too time to time. Good luck and my best regards, lui

I would certainly assume that the following is “old news” to the seasoned among you, but if you’re new (or pretty new, like me) to watch repairing, I think and hope you’ll find the following information useful. As most of you know, finding watch movement spare parts can be pretty trying. Oftentimes, they can’t be bought new as they are obsolete or restricted, and as a hobbyist, it is even worse. So, one strategy I intend to use in the future will to buy complete movements on flea markets sold as “for parts/repair”. Even so, finding the exact calibre can take a very long time. I had this problem with a Unitas calibre 6380. I needed a new pallet and an escape wheel. When searching eBay, all I found were expensive complete watches. Searching the Internet, I came across a page here on WRT, which eventually led me to the page “JBorel Products Watch Parts”, and this page felt like a gift from the watch gods. Using this page, once you’ve located the watch movement part you’re looking for, you can, with a simple click, get a list of all other calibres (and sometimes even other brands of calibres) using this exact part. That makes it so much easier to find a donor movement or the part itself if it is not listed, for example, on eBay, for the calibre you’re working on. For example, let’s say we need a minute wheel for a Unitas calibre 6380 (just follow the red arrows, which indicate a click):

I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project.

Happy to have found this forum. I am a lifelong wearer of wrist watches and have just recently started buying with an eye toward collecting with a special emphasis on vintage watches. I currently have a few Sicura jump hours (one of which is my daily watch) and a few automatics. I would like to increase my knowledge of the mechanics and be able to become proficient enough to do basic repairs and servicing/restoration of the watches I am interested in. I am realizing this is a complex proposition, but I look forward to getting to know the members of this community and learning from your many years of collective experience. Best, John PS - I am attaching a picture of my daily watch.

Following on from my intro + initial post, here's what my first round of "OCB fixes watches" tooling looks like: Feel free to laugh/cry etc - don't worry, I most certainly don't take myself seriously First book arrived: "Repairing quartz LCD and analog watches, volume 3" by Scriptar, Lausanne. No ISBN. Bought from formby-clocks.co.uk. I presume he's known on here? I do regret buying the oil from amazon actually, and I've not even opened it! On the active lookout for a decent screwdriver kit, non magnetic tweezers, some more books/PDF, Already have basic electronics kit, a microscope with x4 + x10 which will do for now, and even tempted to try the "smart phone microscope" kit one of my kids has. Now I'm off to pop the back off a few of that lot of 100+ watches I bought and start to play!

That is what I call quick sourcing, finding all you need in eleven mins or less. Sometimes, I think if I did'nt have this hobby ,we,d go crazy. Best

Give OD for the end stones. Also have fhf 70 mainsprings which I think would work.

Oldhippy, was she in your stoking or just under the tree in her's?

Hi Nows the time to start pick what looks like the simplest one and go for it. Remember you are not alone there are many members on here to help and are willing to help. When posting questions about a problem if you can always where possible quote the make and calibre of the watch and a pictures of the front and back, they go along way to help. By The way take pictures as you go for reference in case it all goes pear shaped.

Alright, some more spoilers. The yellow case holder is crap but the black one is damn good. Fit it in a vice or clamp it. The pin remover is also good. Punches, on pin and collar bracelets all you need is 0.8 or 0.9, and 1.1mm. Also urgently needed Seiko style (there are 4 types, pick based on your mood) caseback opener, which you may need to sharpen. A crystal press and lot of other cheap stuff. Some you can also use for electronic repair, some is just cute to look at. Once in there is no way out. Sorry.

I buy from Cousins UK but if you're not in the UK /EU that can be a bit slow for small orders. However it's true they have unrivaled inventory. Batteries are easily found at the hardware or electronics store.

Your tools look a lot like mine at the beginning. I still haven't bought better oilers and cups. Part of the fun is also finding which tools do work and which don't, and where is worth to save from 1 Euro to 1,000, with anything in between. Spoiler, that "caseback wrench", may get you very, very upset when presented to the "right" caseback. In that case (pun intended) the latter -albeit scratched- always come out winning.

Merhaba, Welcome and Afrin. Learned them words touring the beautiful Antalia.

Sorry I had missed that the watch had been dropped. If the watch has already been serviced recently then it can make sense to concentrate right away on the balance and escapement. In similar please post the relevant timegrapher pictures as pattern and amplitude actually do tell more than just rate values.

Assuming this watch is not antique and has a shock proof system on the balance i would say that would need to be checked first. It could mean a cracked balance pivot jewel even more so than a broken or bent staff. I would say this because of the changes in behavior in different positions, a watch should run slower at when standing vertical in all 4 positions but -60 is way out of the realm of acceptability. That fact that it speeds up and slows down by just sitting and not being touched could suggest a broken jewel as well, but it could also mean something else in the train, but i would say unlikely. In my experience shock proof or not any kind of drop usually results in damage somewhere in the balance. Either way its needs to be fully disassembled. You must put the balance jewels under a microscope as well at the balance staff. Check shakes but side shakes in particular. Make sure balance wheel is true and not weaving up and down. Remove caseback and observe the balance in 6 positions with movement out of the case.

Third time's the charm, I hope. This guy came in the post yesterday (2024 2467): And these two arrived today (2024 2464): JerseyMo, if you tell me these are Mercuries... Hah!

They look like keepers to me.

Hi *, Inspired by Andy I decided to record the things I do with clocks and watches here, for the unforeseen future it will mean that I am going to describe the mistakes i make and complain a lot, and cry, and cry a like a baby a little bit more. Mark put a Valjoux (ETA) 7750 movement together using spare parts from the scrap heap, now i am planning to do something similar, if I can spend enough time with watches I am going to try to put a movement together using parts coming from my carpet only. Tonight there is no mistake or complaints i made a few wrist watch display holders still made out of my neighbor cut-down tree. I am planning to make another set where the middle section will be wider. lui

both are Marlins. they need new stem crowns and the crystals buffed. do thye run?

A new ultrasonic cleaning machine with a heater and big enough to take clock bits

Puller did arrive yesterday - and after looking it over decided to pull the wheel. It worked beautifully. No problems at all. Here is the puller for odd number of spokes... Here you can see the "pushers" are brass. Not nylon as they are for cannon pinion or hand pullers. So, all small enough to work with easily. There are still nylon blocks - but the pushers are captured under them and extend out further. So, will have unobstructed access to everything for cleaning. -P.

You may have noticed a few changes - I have removed the Gallery section and the CMS pages app from the site as it costs too much to 'rent' those modules with comparatively very little use by members - it just did not make sense to keep them going. I apologise if this inconveniences or annoys anybody but I think it is better to keep the core of this website to be a discussion forum. The WRT website is costing me a lot of money per month to run and I am making a few changes to help with that - there is a little income from eBay affiliate ads but not enough to cover the cost of hosting and some help from Patrons and for this we are very grateful. The site has over 30GB in uploaded media now!!! And the notification emails generated is quite high too - I have to use a separate company to handle this so that the site doesn't get email black-listed. One of these services suddenly and without notice stopped our service a few months ago and it was a few days before anybody even noticed (password reset emails were no longer working). I did manage to find a new email provider and things have been running smoothly ever since. Getting back to the uploaded media, as mentioned it's over 30GB and this covers images in topics going back several years. I do back this up every night and I backup the site database every hour in order to protect the content should we ever have a disaster I have a Synology NAS here in the office which has a full backup on and I also keep a backup offsite on a cloud service. I have also decided to use Amazon Cloudfront to host all the uploaded media. I am in the process of migrating this content over and you may notice broken images for a very short period during the migration. But ultimately this will maintain and even improve performance of the site. Anyway, all being said, this is a fantastic community and I am fully committed to continuing with it's administration, keeping our little corner of the net alive - Just a little update to let you know what's happening -

George, I have this bomb ............