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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/09/17 in all areas
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Picked up this Poljot Sturmanskie from the Bay the other day after following @Endeavor through his Poljot 31659 service. I may have paid a little much but this one did come with the original box and papers and also the original bracelet (which is absolute garbage). It's a 1988 model which should have the 31659 movement inside. Most everything runs fine although the stem is bent as the crown wobbles and the hack doesn't seem to work. It also sounds a bit tinny... I'll have to get it properly cleaned and lubricated before wearing it. I would offer up a pic of the movement but getting the case open is about as easy as getting into Fort Knox. I'll have to figure out how to get inside without damaging the piece. I'll post picks of the service when I get to it but right now I'm knee deep in another chronograph repair.3 points
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Gotta agree with these guys, for what it's worth, I have been a member of several MB's and I would not have stayed at WRT this long, if there wasn't something I could gain from it, even as an amateur repair person, not to mention the diverse personalities and colorful commentary. Your have to admit there is no other site like this and I don't try to curry favor with anyone. Curry: to seek to gain favor by flattery or attention We all get discouraged at sometime or another, when you get stuck trying to do repairs or things in general just don't seem to work no matter what you do. I've wanted to get out of watches altogether a few times but my determination to conquer the seemingly impossible tasks won't let me, maybe it's just me. I do know one thing: you can't be successful at repairs, if you give up. You can PM me with why you want to not be a part of this, maybe I can help change your mind. Dave2 points
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@RyMoeller Nice find As in my walkthrough, IMHO best is to take a scalpel knife and a small hammer. Put the case on a scratch free "hardish" surface (so the vibrations don't get through to the movement) and slowly work, gently tapping with the hammer, the scalpel around the whole seam (360 degrees around), slowly opening the seam. After you created a big enough gap (you still need some dynamite) you insert your blunt watch case opening knife and it should "pop-off". Next to the damage I had already done trying it the "supposedly" way, this caused no additional, or minimum extra damage / scratches, but it may damage the flat O-ring (which isn't that hard to get, not the original, mind you). The movement number 31659 should be stamped on the chrono-bridge, and the date on the balance bridge; at least that was the case on mine, which had never been opened since it left the factory in 1988. Having said that, I noticed missing screws in mine, so one never knows what the factory worker decided to do with your watch on that day Oh, yes ......... you may need a 10 ton press to close it @ricardopalamino Me president?2 points
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Well, the upside to this (very useable whole watch adverts for "steampunk") is the purchase price is usually lower when the parts are sold for "steampunk". Of course, I prefer my watch parts in packaging with part number and caliber labels. I really have mixed emotions about steampunk, though. On the one hand (pun duplicated), because vintage watch parts are so hard to find, I would be devastated to find a part I had been hunting for encased in resin. On the other hand (duplicate groan), I have seen some really cool pieces made with watch parts. Incidentally (look, Ma, no hands), I have a mixed-media (another name for steampunk) little montage of a steam (no punk) engine from David of London that hung in my dad's shop for about 30 or 40 years. Crazy, huh? Shirley2 points
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Wearing a HMT 'Slim' handwind today. It's from India (HMT is an Indian watch manufacturer) and it's a new watch for around USD20 plus shipping. DIal is an orangey salmon pink, not usually my first choice but I was attracted to the simple design. Even though its advertised as slim, its not really slim.. I figure its about 8mm thick, but it wears thin because of the case design. The movement is based on the Citizen 0200 series movement, even the Citizen 'parashock' is used but the retaining jewel's mount is not as 'glossy' as on an original Citizen! Textured dial n Citizen ancestry is visible but the finishing is not a patch on the original, pretty co**BLEEP** actually. I'm pretty sure dials will swap across, actual parts like wheels may not. Will probably try it one day. Its a chrome plated case so it may not last as long as a Stainless steel one but as an occasional watch watch it should be fine as long as I wipe it down with a wet tissue after putting it away. Performance wise it's fine, I strapped it on Monday morning and 24 hours later its pretty much spot on, thanks to that big balance! Good value in my opinion. Anilv2 points
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Just a wee reminder to everyone. Please do not make any posts that either directly or indirectly constitute a sales advert, as it contravenes the long established forum rules and it will be removed. Thank you.1 point
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Please explain, not sure I understand. Can this be done on any watch? (Right now the amplitude is 276, 12 hours after I wound it last)1 point
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Well, if those weren't rapid responses! Thank you! I just talked to the manufacturer and he said, like you suspected, that the mic should have a built-in amp. And after checking the connection again I noticed it's not a 5 din but a 6 din (an old timomat 2000). So I'll try to find an adapter for that and post the results. For those of you already running some kind of software timegrapher, what has your experience been compared to a dedicated timegrapher like witschi or greiner? Especially the difference/tolerance, I also read the timegrapher software thread and only a few posted numbers for comparison.1 point
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Thanks for all your helpful feedback, rodabog, matabog and svorkoetter! I think I will keep it, then. I would be happy to post a photo of the watch, but I am not sure the rules of this site allows me to do just that, though, because the watch kind of bears an unintentional? resemblance to a famous brand/model automatic flying carousel tourbillon that costs around €90,000, so to speak. It has a 42 mm SS body with brushed sides, 13mm thick, a dark gray grained dial w roman numerals printed in white, silver hands, a has railroad chapter ring surrounding the tourbillon window. I Think there is a Shanghai/Seagull SF8 showing up there. It has Sapphire glass both on the front and on the back. The backside of the movement is quite nicely machined SS and the weight that powers the auto drive mechanism has some nice gold design clues. The watch band is made from glossy, black alligator skin with a designed deployment buckle. I will try to find a dark grey nubuck alligator band instead, the glossy black finish is a bit over-the-top, if I can find one that matches the price of the watch.1 point
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UPDATE: This past weekend, I picked up a NOS Waltham 4856 arbor with straight pivots and replaced the broken arbor with this part. The operation was straight forward although it took me much longer to do it because I was learning a new skill and working with new-to-me tools. I used a staking tool to press out the old arbor and to fit the new one into the original fork. The pallet fork is back in the watch and appears that it will work once I am able to replace the broken mainspring.1 point
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I'm not sure when the styles changed but I do know that as the Seiko Pogue 6139 - 600x evolved from the first model , 1969 I believe , the words on the dial changed from "Water70Proof", to "Water70Resist " . to no depth markings . If you see a watch that says Water Proof on the dial or case back you can be sure it is pre 70's ......... i think that there were some regulation changes that mandated this because most of these watches were not in fact waterproof to depth , but water resistantant for swimming , showering , etc .1 point
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Today I'm wearing my 37mm Seiko 5. Give my poor old wrist a rest from my bigger watches Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk1 point
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For no reason but the crystal reflection, which I find kind of sexy. Since then I've got a real macro lens but in hindsight maybe it wasn't so necessary...1 point
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I have added another member to my collection . This one is a Hamilton Electric RR Special . This one was sold as a non-runner and had no hands , Otherwise this watch is complete and original . The RR Special case is 37mm , has a screw down back , and the watches date from the mid 60's . The RR Specials used the 505 movement and had a micro-sdjuster on the balance cock to regulate the time more accurately . as can be seen in the last photo. These watches came in 3 variations in the case selection . They being the models 50 , 51 , and 52 . The 50 is all stainless steel , the 51 has a stainless steel case and back and a 10k gold filled bezel , and the 52 is all 10k gold filled . I have the 51 . Below is a pic taken from the site , Electric Watches UK , that shows all 3 models and their variations ....and also the correct hands that came with this model . As I stated , this watch came as a non-runner and I found 2 issues to that affect . First , there was a tiny screw stuck to one of the case magnets under the balance wheel that hindered movement ,...and second , I had to replace the very tiny contact on the dial side that provided power from the Neg side of the battery , through the contact , to the coil on the balance via the index wheel . After a complete service and with the replacement contact in place , this puppy took off running ....and keeping good time so far.... Finally after reassembling the watch , I found a set of blued minute and hour hands in my stash that needed a bit if reaming to fit , and also a genuine Hamilton Electric second hand , and set them to the watch . I will wait a while and see how the watch runs and then re-lume the hands and paint the second hand red .1 point
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The more I look at these Hamiltons the more I wish I'd lived in the era they were manufactured.... Astonishing case design and technology...1 point
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I was able to pick up this Hamilton Electric Meteor today for the low price of an arm and a leg . I scratched that itch with the other arm . I am hoping for the best , but I am pretty sure it's all original , including the bracelet . I don't know which movement is installed ,...the 500 or the 505 . I'm going to have to recuperate and hold off on any sizable purchases for a bit . The sellers remarks on the description,,,," Vintage Hamilton Electric Asymmetrical Mid Century Modern Watch 10K Gold Filled. Men's watch. Good vintage condition. Minor scratches & scuffs. Rub marks on back. See pictures. Currently does not keep time. May just need new battery. Hands can be moved with side button. Please feel free to ask questions. This watch belonged to my husband's grandfather. I am not a dealer. "... I'm using the sellers pics to show it........1 point
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Ah yes, the Esembl-O-Graf. I have the complete collection in hardback and I use them on just about every chronograph repair. Deviating a bit off topic... I did a little internet research a while back on William O. Smith Sr. who put together the Esembl-O-Graf collection for his watchmaking school, the Western Pennsylvania Horological Institute (I was interested in the American connection since there seem to be no examples of actual US made chronographs). Unfortunately the watchmaker school is no longer around but it looks like watchmaking still runs in the family.1 point
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It's a Mondia for me today. My first "proper" watch was a Mondia Sea Scout. It was my 16th birthday present from my parents and I still have it, but it was the start of my interest in Mondia watches and I now have 5 of various vintages. This one was an eBay non-runner that required no more than a service and clean up.1 point
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The Bradley is attached below although it still needs some cosmetic work but it is now happily ticking away and thus far seems to be keeping good time. Maybe you can find the same model Bradley you had for sale somewhere and refurbish it as a project? My first ever watch as a boy was a Timex which is probably why I have a bit of a soft spot for them even now.1 point
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@Geo - It is always a shame when a pretty movement is hidden isn't it. I have an early 1940's Elgin A-11 military watch opened up on my desk with a gold toned 539 movement in it, the movement was actually more aesthetically pleasing than I imagined, I hadn't seen pictures of the movement beforehand so was expecting a very generic movement like a Timex, surprisingly it was better than anticipated. The band may even be original but not sure, someone has at some stage replaced the original springbars with sewing pins and bent them over. It looks exactly like THIS picture I found whilst searching for some more information about them. From what I have read so far, it seems that the gold toned movement and that case are the scarcer variant of this watch but would love to get a second opinion on that. Anyway, as promised, here is the Timex.1 point
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