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Everything posted by RyMoeller

  1. Forgot I had one of these- it might be helpful (sadly I only have the first page). Pierce 134.pdf
  2. I think the PDF was a reference to the Esemble-O-Graf service manual for the Pierce 134 (volume 15). I did a bit of hunting on the internet and cannot find pdf's of the Esembl-O-Grafs anymore. You can purchase them secondhand from eBay though. I would suggest the CD version which has a PDF of each of the 28 volumes.
  3. Still trying to get a Rolex in the collection - looks like 2020 won't be the year though. (sigh)
  4. That's a beautiful watch but the market is small. I have a nearly identical Tissot in 14k white gold which I picked up for $75. An Omega would command more I'm sure.
  5. Looks like a Venus 150 or 175 movement. Good chronograph.
  6. Old radium based luminescent paint will age to rust red color but I think it all started green. If moisture gets to it, it will turn an ash black. Generally, collectors look for a mocha color. Haven't seen much of that in radium watches though.
  7. Wait a minute- you won the watch in the first picture only to have the listing updated stating the watch had been re-lumed and a new picture posted? Yeah, I wouldn't accept that- too shady. The luminous paint in the second image is too bright and doesn't look proper. It might be possible to remove it without damaging the dial but that's not guaranteed. The value of the piece has taken a hit too since the original luminous paint on the dial is gone- even if it's under the new paint, there's no way to remove just the new paint and recover the old paint. The old paint is probably radium based which is another reason to avoid messing with the dial. Lastly, the regulator pushed way off to the side is an ominous sign.
  8. Looking at my Moebius Sales Brochure (which appears to date to the mid 70's) 8300 and 8301 have good adherence but poor response to pressure which I imagine means it would be pushed out of the bearing by torque on the arbor. My (certainly outdated) Moebius document suggests 8030 or 8040 as thick oils for arbors. Might work... D5 is typically what I use unless the technical sheet specifically states otherwise, my understanding is that HP1300 is essentially the synthetic replacement of D5. I don't work on Seikos too often but have viewed almost all of Spencer Klein's videos on them and have noticed worn arbor bearings seem to be a very common problem. Considering that, I'd say the thicker the oil the better.
  9. Well I could have just called it an alternating current motor because it's not really run on direct current; I should have called it an electric motor. AC motor isn't really a great name because that's usually referring to motors used for air conditioning. AC/DC motor is simply incorrect in this case so I apologize for the confusion. The bit that you can see inside the casing is the backside of the reversing switch (and the tubes for the brushes).
  10. Oh yes, I did this. As you can see from the images- it wasn't grounded when I started! I'm glad I only got a mild shock instead of the 115V and 10 amps I could have received!
  11. Yeah I was pleasantly surprised. Just one frayed wire and the insulation was in good shape. I did consider doing a complete rewiring though but everything was holding up so well I figured best to leave it be. You can see a lot of oil has been slung around in there over the years though. Oh and it smelled wonderful- 1960's machine shop. Yum.
  12. It's fixed. A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business. Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now.
  13. Looks like progress. I've got the field coil out and found the wire which I thought was shorted was in fact frayed and touching the inside of the case.
  14. Here's some pics of the disassembly (thus far): My thinking is that the two posts (left and right in the last picture) run through the iron core and are threaded into the other side of the casing. It's just a guess though. Yes @vinn3, I"m leaning towards a new motor for a replacement. The only issue will be getting it mounted securely to the lathe table. I never could decide if I was a machinist or a carpenter so my I'm always scrambling for the right tools for the job!
  15. Yes, I'll provide one as soon as I return home from work.
  16. Hello all, I was cutting brass bushing on my Peerless lathe this weekend when I began to feel an unpleasant sensation in my arm- a bit like a high frequency vibration but somehow not quite. Well, having been on the wrong end of a few electrical escapades I knew my brain was confused by what turned out to be a continuous electrical shock. I pulled out my multi-meter and confirmed that the lathe bed was receiving 3-5 volts back while the motor ran. The lathe is powered by a very nice Watch Craft 1/10 HP AC/DC motor which has operated without fail until now. It is long in the tooth though, I would guess it was manufactured in the 50's or 60's. The internet advises that when an AC/DC motor is shorted it's time to discard it. I pulled the motor from the lathe and found that one of leads will register continuity when tested against the motor casing and that leads me to believe there's a short somewhere between the field coil and the case- although if it was that simple I'd probably be reading a lot more than 3-5 volts from the bed... anyhow, I can't figure out how to remove the field coil from of the case- there doesn't seem to be any visible screws to hold it in place. So this leads to my inquiry- has anyone removed a field coil from one of these motors before? And then of course my second inquiry- any experience swapping a lathe motor out with a modern replacement? I'm thinking one of the 1/15 HP Dayton motors would work well but if anyone has previous experience and would like to offer a suggestion I'm all ears.
  17. Interesting. I've not even heard of the Perrelet watch brand until this very post but they have some cool timepieces- I like the "Turbine Family". Often the color of a watch dial is achieved through a chemical process. To repeat it you would need to know what metal is used for the substrate (brass, steel, aluminum, etc.) Anodizing also comes to mind because you can get some vivid really vivid colors.
  18. Very nice collection of watches you've listed there- vintage lot, perfect for this forum; welcome aboard.
  19. What's the magnification level your using? I have a 5x loupe that I lean on and a 10x loupe that pretty much puts my nose into the movement. I think even using the 5x loupe I'm within two or three inches of what I'm working on though and this does create an ergonomics issue. You'll notice if you look around that most watchmaker desks are raised quite high so that you can work on the watch while keeping your back straight. I have a stereo microscope that I just love using for just this reason. The magnification can be adjusted as needed and I'm not leaning far over the work area.
  20. Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  21. I second this approach. I'll just add heat can also be used to break down the superglue.
  22. If "Al" is Al Archer, then the advice is certainly sound. From what I know of Al, he's an exceptional watchmaker and is the go-to guy for Speedmaster repairs. I'd have to agree with most of what was laid out in the two posts. You have to really love the process and be willing to challenge yourself if you want to get good at it. Assume there's always a better way of doing things, then find it. You'll never be happy with your tools either- start with good stuff, replace it with better stuff, and be prepared to make your own. One thing about doing your own work- it's certain to meet your standards.
  23. The dial looks good for it's age. From my experience there is really much that can be done to improve the look of a vintage dial. Often what appears to be dirt is instead oxidation and cannot be removed without changing the appearance of the dial. I would stick to using Rodico and Q-Tips dipped in distilled water. If you do anything, be very careful and work very slow. Keep in mind the printing on the dial is often placed on top of the lacquer and it's the first to go when "cleaning" is attempted.
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