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mwilkes

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mwilkes last won the day on March 21 2015

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About mwilkes

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  1. Evening all Just wondering how you folks generally remove the balance & cock from your movement! In general, you see people simply lifting the cock out with the balance dangling from it. In my (limited!) experience, more often than not I find this distorts the hairspring on everything except modern ETA movements How do you lift yours? :-)
  2. Yup I’ll post a pic when it’s back together (the case is being de-wormed, poor thing) - not a beautiful clock. The thing is, regardless of your pendulum length you can’t get a regular number of beats per hour (though you’re making me doubt myself). In reality the .14 is irrelevant - it’s just curiosity.
  3. Thanks for posting that - I’ve always loved barographs. I had similar issues with a Baro I found in an auction. I found sucking it hard and crimping the bellows did the job! The movement was in good nick, just needed a bush or two. I didn’t lacquer the brass - I just used renaissance wax (less fuss!)
  4. Evening fellow clockies I’ve just spent a long time counting wheel teeth over and over again... centre 84 third 78 & 7 leaves on the pinion escape 33 & 7 leaves ...which gives me, I think, 8825.14ish beats per hour! Does that mean someone’s changed a wheel/pinion in the past? Or did they not really care that there’s no integer beat rate (it’s late 19thC fusee clock from Co. Cork)
  5. Thanks folks - it does look like most of the parts are interchangeable. Nice movement to work on - the mainspring can be changed without disturbing the rest of the movement
  6. Hi all - just realised I haven't been on the forum for 2 years! Time flies... I have a watch on my bench with a 13''' Felsa 4033 movement in it. Can't find any info on the movement at all...wonder if any of you folks have heard of it or if there are equivalents or other variants. Not even Ranfft.de seems to have info on it! It's an automatic movement with a little spring clip holding the oscillating weight on - i need to replace that, and put a new mainspring in. Thanks!
  7. That's a shame... For what it's worth I never use the swan neck adjuster - I just move the regulator itself. It's a friction fit, which allows the watch to be adjusted while leaving the pointer centred so it looks nice for the customer :-) So although your watch man has bodged your watch, you can still adjust it, albeit with more care...
  8. +1 for the not-forcing-or-rushing Also: have lots of light and the right tools for the job. Most of my mistakes have been due at least in part to not having the right tool for the job (mainsprings - i'm looking at you!)
  9. On my wrist today is my "online bits watch" - titanium case from Ickler, dial from eBay, hands from somewhere in the US, Sellita SW200 movement from eBay, Hirsch strap from somewhere in France! I think it comes together rather nicely, and the movement runs with a dead-flat line on the timegrapher. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial, but otherwise a straightforward assembly job, apart from servicing the movement.
  10. With old-style cap jewels, I find the main thing to watch out for, and the main reason i've caused damage to older watches as I've learned, is slipping while loosening the hairspring stud screw and stabbing the hairspring in the heart... ...on the plus side, you get to re-shape the hairspring then, and that's character-building.
  11. Same thing happened mine, and I don't think I was forcing it beyond what it looked like it could take....
  12. Looks ok, easy to clean up, and it's a very useful thing to have...I'm very fond of mine - use it all the time.
  13. That's happened to me too. I broke one when I was adjusting the beat - stupidly, I was using it as an anchor point for my tweezers when rotating the stud. It's possible that a previous repairer did the same thing?
  14. I would use the oil as a hand moisturizer :-) Putting oil in a dirty watch will produce an abrasive sludge that will accelerate wear on the movement. I suppose you could *cover* the movement in oil to prevent rust, but in that case you shouldn't let it run!
  15. I'm a leftie too - and actually using a watchmaker's lathe is a bit tricky. I have to use it end-on, which has its own disadvantages.
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