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mwilkes last won the day on March 21 2015

mwilkes had the most liked content!

About mwilkes

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  1. That's a shame... For what it's worth I never use the swan neck adjuster - I just move the regulator itself. It's a friction fit, which allows the watch to be adjusted while leaving the pointer centred so it looks nice for the customer :-) So although your watch man has bodged your watch, you can still adjust it, albeit with more care...
  2. +1 for the not-forcing-or-rushing Also: have lots of light and the right tools for the job. Most of my mistakes have been due at least in part to not having the right tool for the job (mainsprings - i'm looking at you!)
  3. On my wrist today is my "online bits watch" - titanium case from Ickler, dial from eBay, hands from somewhere in the US, Sellita SW200 movement from eBay, Hirsch strap from somewhere in France! I think it comes together rather nicely, and the movement runs with a dead-flat line on the timegrapher. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial, but otherwise a straightforward assembly job, apart from servicing the movement.
  4. With old-style cap jewels, I find the main thing to watch out for, and the main reason i've caused damage to older watches as I've learned, is slipping while loosening the hairspring stud screw and stabbing the hairspring in the heart... ...on the plus side, you get to re-shape the hairspring then, and that's character-building.
  5. Same thing happened mine, and I don't think I was forcing it beyond what it looked like it could take....
  6. Looks ok, easy to clean up, and it's a very useful thing to have...I'm very fond of mine - use it all the time.
  7. That's happened to me too. I broke one when I was adjusting the beat - stupidly, I was using it as an anchor point for my tweezers when rotating the stud. It's possible that a previous repairer did the same thing?
  8. I would use the oil as a hand moisturizer :-) Putting oil in a dirty watch will produce an abrasive sludge that will accelerate wear on the movement. I suppose you could *cover* the movement in oil to prevent rust, but in that case you shouldn't let it run!
  9. I'm a leftie too - and actually using a watchmaker's lathe is a bit tricky. I have to use it end-on, which has its own disadvantages.
  10. I recommend picking up Archie Perkins's "Antique Watch Restoration" vols 1&2 - it's expensive, but it's probably just what you need. The book starts with a strip down and overhaul of a verge/fusee watch, and it goes into detail about fusee chain repair and how to pre-load the mainspring. I bought it last week - it's a good read!
  11. Close, but not quite! The keyless works were in perfect condition, but the cover-plate was VERY slightly bent - just enough to snag a tooth of an intermediate wheel.
  12. Here's one that got me: The watch only ran when the cannon pinion was removed.... Guess what the problem was.
  13. Is there an arrow pointing to a hole? I think you stick a Pointy Thing in there...
  14. The fruits of my labour... The keyless cover for a (clapped-out) rolex was made from a bit of mainspring: The setting lever spring for a 40's movado was made from a hacksaw blade: A pleasant evening's work.
  15. I used an old bandsaw blade - lovely steel!
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