Jump to content

Do you see anything strange in this balance wheel?


Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, frenchie said:

One easy thing to check is to remove the automatic bridge and see how the watch runs.

What do you mean? I can wind it manually and it will work until the charge is gone, auto winding is not working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, chriz74 said:

What do you mean? I can wind it manually and it will work until the charge is gone, auto winding is not working.

Oh ok. So your issue has nothing to do with the balance.

When you slowly turn the weight (with a piece of wood or equivalent), does it turn smoothly? If so, do any of the wheels on the automatic bridge turn?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, frenchie said:

Oh ok. So your issue has nothing to do with the balance.

When you slowly turn the weight (with a piece of wood or equivalent), does it turn smoothly? If so, do any of the wheels on the automatic bridge turn?

Yes it turns smoothly and the wheels turn, all three wheels are turning regardless of rotor direction

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What frencie means is that you should remove the automatic bridge to see if there is any problem with that? 

But i think you answered your own question? It can be wind manually but not wind automatic. 

So think the problem is in the automatic winding? Broken reverse wheel probably? 

When you turn the rotor does it wind the mainspring? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

What frencie means is that you should remove the automatic bridge to see if there is any problem with that? 

But i think you answered your own question? It can be wind manually but not wind automatic. 

So think the problem is in the automatic winding? Broken reverse wheel probably? 

When you turn the rotor does it wind the mainspring? 

How can I see it? If the rotor does wind the mainspring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note: it might be hard to see the movement of the barrel or the click (it's very slow), so you can make a small mark as a reference point with a felt tip pen on the barrel (wipes of with a q-tip dipped in alcohol).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, frenchie said:

Note: it might be hard to see the movement of the barrel or the click (it's very slow), so you can make a small mark as a reference point with a felt tip pen on the barrel (wipes of with a q-tip dipped in alcohol).

I did a video, please check it at 720p.

 

Edited by chriz74
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm... The mystery remains.

Here's a few things I'd look for-

  1. How much play is there in the rotor?  Is it possible it's colliding with the caseback?  I've only worked on a single autowind but I've heard that the bearing for the rotor will wear over time and this will cause issues (of course you'd probably hear or feel it on your wrist).
  2. Do you move around enough?  I'd sleep all day if I could but of course that would result in my watch not winding.  Obviously this sounds unlikely but I guess it is a possibility (you can tell I'm grasping at straws here).  :unsure:
  3. Here's a link to another non-winding Rolex.  It might give you some ideas of where to look if you've got the tools, skill, inclination, etc. to disassemble the autowinding mechanism.

I hope you are able to solve the mystery here.  It's must be enormously frustrating to have such a wonderful timepiece that just doesn't want to run properly.  Reminds me a bit of my old Fiero GT.  :mellow:

Edited by RyMoeller
grammar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, frenchie said:

The barrel is moving, the click is moving too. It almost looks like something is slipping but it's really hard to tell... (no reference point).

I think I see the click you are referring to. The little wheel on the bigger one right? But it seems the big one is not moving , am I wrong? Isn't that the barrel wheel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, RyMoeller said:

Hmmm... The mystery remains.

Here's a few things I'd look for-

  1. How much play is there in the rotor?  Is it possible it's colliding with the caseback?  I've only worked on a single autowind but I've heard that the bearing for the rotor will wear over time and this will cause issues (of course you'd probably hear or feel it on your wrist).
  2. Do you move around enough?  I'd sleep all day if I could but of course that would result in my watch not winding.  Obviously this sounds unlikely but I guess it is a possibility (you can tell I'm grasping at straws here).  :unsure:
  3. Here's a link to another non-winding Rolex.  It might give you some ideas of where to look if you've got the tools, skill, inclination, etc. to disassemble the autowinding mechanism.

I hope you are able to solve the mystery here.  It's must be enormously frustrating to have such a wonderful timepiece that just doesn't want to run properly.  Reminds me a bit of my old Fiero GT.  :mellow:

Very frustrating as if you also think the service  for this at Rolex is quoted 950 euros and there are a lot of problems regarding the policy on aged dials and parts... however I also tried to unscrew the case back so that there is more space between the rotor and the back and put it on the watch winder and nothing. The watch stops. I'll check the post 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, chriz74 said:

I think I see the click you are referring to. The little wheel on the bigger one right? But it seems the big one is not moving , am I wrong? Isn't that the barrel wheel?

The click is the small device that allows the barrel to turn in only one direction (it makes the "click" sound when you wind a watch). See attached picture.

If it's easier to see, make a small mark as a reference point with a felt tip pen on the barrel (wipes of with a q-tip dipped in alcohol), and do the same test.

At this point, I'd say a wheel has a broken tooth (or teeth) on the automatic bridge, or the bridge is loose (broken screw)... You really should try to find a watch repair shop to look at it. It's not very easy to fix or diagnose with no experience.

2017-03-13_12-51-51.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you turn the rotor this wheel should turn? Can't  see in the video if it does? Still think it's a broken reverse wheel? Can't be the click?  If it was that  the manual winding shouldn't work either? Which is does?

Red line should turn in one direction regardless of which direction you turn the rotor.2017-03-13_12-51-51.jpg.b06b34353a8b91135f58ea7545cb1e5b.jpg.42e89c9e77f1f924ff0b928962be930f.jpg

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Extra photo of a similar cal 1570 here:

IMG_2388.jpg

The ratchet wheel and click are the bronze coloured wheel at the bottom with the screw in the middle, and the clock sitting to its lower left. 

As Rogart says, you want to check that the ratchet wheel is turning when the rotor rotates. It will take many rotor turns for one tooth of the ratchet wheel to pass the click. 

It may be easiest to demonstrate to yourself its operation by first observing the ratchet wheel and click while slowly manual winding. Then rotate the rotor and check it also turns the ratchet wheel. 

Also, just for clarification of some of the comments above, you will not see the barrel move as it moves extremely slowly. The barrel is the section underneath the ratchet wheel, and it is the barrel which drives the train of wheels. The ratchet wheel turns the barrel arbor when winding, the barrel arbor winds the spring, and then the spring tries to unwind by turning the barrel which in turn drives the gear train.  Maybe the terms "ratchet wheel" and "barrel" are being confused. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To have an idea of how the click and ratchet wheel interact, hand-wind the watch and observe these parts.

The rotation of the rotor will have the same effect on the click and ratchet wheel.. it just takes a lot of rotations of the rotor.  These watches have reverser wheels which can act up.. cleaning and lubrication helps but sometimes the only option are new parts. If the reverser wheels are indeed the problem, it goes without saying that the whole watch will probably need a service.

950 euros is big money, but reputable repair is possible at a lesser cost at non-authorised repair shops. The problem is that if parts need changing they may not be able to source them.

The watch looks pretty decent so you could get lucky and all it needs is a clean and oil.

Personally, I would put the watch away while I save some money to get it done right (not neccessarily Rolex dealer). Using the watch as it is may cause more damage.

Anilv

Edited by anilv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The barrel is moving, the click is moving too. It almost looks like something is slipping but it's really hard to tell... (no reference point).

I am a novice so please excuse my input if it is rubbish. But might the fact that 'something is slipping' point to a problem with the mainspring or problem with it being unhooked? As I say I'm a novice but I read of a similar issue and wanted to share that with you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, chriz74 said:

I zoomed in big on my video and to me it seems that the click is being skipped. The wheel doesn't advance past the click, it trys to advance but it fails and goes back.

Sounds like you may have found your fault. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...