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Deggsie

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Everything posted by Deggsie

  1. I like your blend of philosophical and economical response JDM. It makes sense what you say, but .....seiko still seem to lack the charisma other old Swiss lever wrist watches boast. This discussion is similar the old argument about what constitutes a fine red wine. I think the best answer I read was “whichever tastes best to taster”. Perhaps I will grow to enjoy seiko when I repair and wear the one I inherited recently. Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hi JDM, thank you for sharing your most uninteresting walkthroughs. I am envious of your skill to produce such professionally written documents but moreover your skill in working with seiko. No offence, but personally I don’t like seiko, maybe because they are not old enough. However, I do have an inherited seiko waiting to be repaired, so who knows I might just come to love it when (or if) I get it running again [emoji6] Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Hello. Somewhere on here, a year or so ago, I reported an experiment where I purposely placed a scrap pallet fork into ipa (that’s not Indian pale ale[emoji16]) For several hours between me leaving home in the morning for work and then returning midday it was left soaking. I inspected it at midday (5 hours later) and probed the shellac with a sharpened oiler. There was no sign of softening nor where the pallets moveable. I put the pallet fork back into the ipa, and returned to work. After returning from work in the evening (some 10 hours after initial immersion) I probed the shellac again. This time it was sponge like and degraded. The pallets moved when pressed. A watch maker whom was giving me lessons at the time always used ipa for final rinse with the ultrasonic action as well. He bought ipa in bulk to save money. He was horrified that I implied its use was frowned upon by some some watchmakers. In 30+ years of running a watch repair business he claimed he had not ever had an issue with ipa softening shellac. So, I think as long as you don’t submerse the parts for hours, then ipa is fine to use for a quick final rinse, and will not effect the shellac.... imho. Personally, I use it for only 3 minutes then put the parts straight onto absorbent paper to dry. Regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Oops. I did mean to say ‘Breguet over-coil hairspring’. Apologies, auto spell correct cut in and I didn’t notice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hi. The hairspring is supposed to be like that. Google breguet overcook hairspring. Please don’t try to straighten it - it look great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Well the watch guys database turned out to be extremely handy indeed! I filtered all GR4502 springs and noted it is also used in the ST1686 - the very movement I bought in a box of spares a couple of years back. So, I installed the ST1686 main spring into the AS1186 (much longer and now looks proportionately correct) and immediately it ran up with gusto! On the timegrapher, with no regulation Im getting 280degrees amplitude, +7s/day rate and a BE of 1.0ms This is similar in all planes except pendant down. I think after another clean and proper lubrication this will improve. [emoji106][emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yes. You’re right. I just took out the barrel, removed the lid and measured the internal diameter of the AS1187 barrel. It’s 9.25mm. The anodised washer in which the new spring was safely stored has 6.50 stamped into it. Here are the photos I promised: I image it’s feeble compared to the correct spring. By the way, the watch guy has an excellent database for GR (General Ressorts) mainsprings on his web site. It will now hopefully allow me to search eBay for movt numbers other than AS1187/94 to find the same mainspring. https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Just to give this topic some closure, I believe my watch is a Bel-Air, the same as below, except the case on my watch is 20 micron gold plated and not stainless steel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hi again Marc. I recollect the newly installed spring seemed to occupy a small volume in the barrel. Just looked at Donald Decarlo and reminded myself that he says spring should appear 1/3rd arbour, 1/3rd air-gap and 1/3rd spring wound out tight to barrel wall. If I’d remembered this, alarm bells should have gone off! I’ll post a photo later showing the spring in the barrel, but convinced now that the lack lustre amplitude is mainspring related. Everything else seems to run very freely both in isolation and as a system. Can I just say many thanks to everyone who has kindly taken the time to help me with the two issues I’ve had relating to this watch, and, also in a previous post relating to the same watch where I asked if anyone recognised it - it’s a Bel-Air by the way. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hello Marc. Thanks so much for your well informed response. Fortunately the mainspring was only £3 on eBay and I’m sure the seller played no part in marking or identifying the spring. He or she probably just went by what was on the packet and made a mistake. So, if I correctly interpret what you’ve written, the ms length dictates the reserve time, and ms cross sectional area + ms material properties will dictate the strength (and hence the kick to the impulse jewel?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hello saswatch and thank you. Reading your reply gave me a eureka moment. It seems the nos mainspring I purchased was not correctly identified by the eBay seller and is too short as well as too narrow and too thin! The photos below show the mainspring dims as per Ranft and the dims of the mainspring I purchased. Presumably such undersizing would mean the impulse kick to the balance wheel would not be strong enough to achieve correct amplitude? Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Sorry, I will report back on this maybe next week. I didn’t get chance to re-clean the movement today. Out of courtesy for the good help you’ve offered, I will keep you informed of the results. What I would add is the hair spring appears perfect - no kinks, concentric is good and it lays flat. Usually my low amplitude issues lead back to poor hairsprings, (or old mainspring) but I don’t think it can get better in this case. I also degaussed the movement but it made no difference. Thinking aloud here, if the balance has lost poise, would amplitude be effected in the horizontal planes ie dial up or dial down? Am I over thinking this? All the best Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hello Vin and thanks for your kind words re my sketch [emoji16] The escape wheel is definitely sandwiched between the gear bridge and the main plate. Definitely not the balance cock and main plate on the one. I’ve now managed to eliminate the friction temporarily by slackening off the tiny screws which hold the end-stone keeper plates in position. This has eliminated the resistance, but... still no end-shake which I do want to see with the screws nipped up, so some work required in the future to get that. Good news is it’s now assembled and running, but the bad news is it’s very poor. Even with a nos mainspring installed, the timegrapher results are poor for different orientations. Just as a rough idea, here are the recordings from my note book a moment ago I’m going to clean this movement again using WP Pro which I purchased from cousins, reassemble it dry, and retest to see if the amplitude improves. If it has... then I will lubricate it. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I realise I’m not the clearest of people when describing in text... so here is a sketch I did over breakfast which hopefully clarifies the setup. I think it’s typical for 1000’s of movement types. With both end stone keepers screwed in, the stones compress onto the tips of the escape wheel pivot causing it to bind Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hi Nucejoe. Good to hear from you. I agree adjusting the pivot length is like amputating an arm because it’s itching. But... all things considered, I believe it may be out of specification, (perhaps replaced and not properly adjusted?) Try to bear with me and visualise this if you can. The overall length of the escape wheel axle (pivot to pivot) is x.xxx mm. Now, as you know, the end stones are ‘rubbed’ into a stepped pocket in their keeper-plates and the keeper-plates are then screwed snugly into pockets - one machined in the main-plate, the other machined in the bridge. So far so good? Ok, with bridge screwed nicely onto the main-plate, the distance from bottom of pocket in the bridge to the bottom of the pocket in the main-plate is measured less than x.xxx mm. I.e the escape wheel staff axle is definitely too long. So, your suggestion that changing position and/or geometry of the end stones could correct the problem seemed a logical one. But.... I pressed the buggers as hard into their keeper plates as I dare (I fear the thin stones may crack if if push any harder). They were bottomed out and didn’t move any deeper, so no gain in end shake. Changing the geometry of the end stones to concave..... phew, it may be easier hone the pivot length after all [emoji3] Reluctantly I may just trim a gold foil dial-washer and place it under the keeper-plates to pack them up. It’s a bodge, but not sure what more to do? Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Hello JDM and saswatch88. Thanks both for your quick replies. I should have mentioned the watch came to me as a non-running project, and also that the movement is an AS1187/94. With the top and bottom end stones installed the escape wheel will just about respond to a puffer at full burst. It isnt possible to transmit power through the gear train if power is applied to the great wheel with brass tweezers. However, slacken off either the top or bottom end stone (thus creating clearance) and the gear train passes my test criteria - that is the escape wheel responds smoothly to the slightest steady puff of air and transmits rotation back to the great gear. Also power applied externally at the great gear is now smoothly transmitted to the escape wheel. What I cannot recall during stripdown is discovering any non standard spacers which might have jacked up the end stones or the bridge, thus artificially creating clearance. I agree with your sentiments JDM ... shortening the pivot isn’t desirable as it’s irreversible. Usually I work on watches which present a problem related to excess end shake! This is a first. Oh one last thing, yes saswatch - I have tried pushing the end stones into their plate. But thank you for pointing this out. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Hello all. This is the first occasion I have had a need to increase end shake, but the escape wheel on my current project is being ‘clamped’ when the top and bottom end stones are installed. The type of end stones are as shown in the photo below: The effect of the zero end-shake is that the watch will just about run at best or not at all. With the pallets removed the gear train runs like it’s been lubricated with tar. I cannot imagine how incorrect assembly would decrease the end-shake, only increase it. So, my conclusion is that the escape wheel has been replaced at some time and not correctly fitted. What would you suggest as a best method to shorten the pivot please? We are talking just microns to prevent binding taking place Thanks in advance Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Apologies JDM, it’s easy for the conversation to get derailed and for the scope to widen when chatting with intellectual like-minded folk on such a friendly helpful channel. [emoji53] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Ah, yes! Well done Yankeedog - the fish scale effect is so characteristic of the pressed pattern on the outside of the ‘John doe’ dial. Many thanks for your help with this [emoji106]. I’ll get to work researching Clarin watches, and hopefully I’ll find my exact dial. There are some very talented folk on here who have managed to revive dial artwork with none printed decals. Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Could it be Bolova if Swiss made? I’m not an expert on Bolova but I thought they were manufactured in the USA? Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. [emoji848]I don’t think Adolf would look too endearing either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Fantastic idea! I hadn’t considered that. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Hi, thanks for your reply. Definitely defaced - if you look at 1,2 & 3 o’clock positions you can see that the dial has been harshly scrubbed with something like peg wood. All the minute markings and branding was erased from the dial [emoji53]. Jon Doe would really go against the grain I’m afraid Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Does anyone recognise this watch please? Sadly the dial has been defaced by the previous owner and the brand name has been rubbed off. If I can positively identify it, I will reproduce the dial markings using water slide decals. The movement is an AS1186/94. Is it possibly a Sully Special? This one is definitely remaining in my collection [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Hi watchweasel. sorry for the late reply I’ve been a bit busy recently and only just managed to check in here. I shall look out for a working TY2530 and use it as a donor to. I only gave a few pounds for it anyway Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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