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Everything posted by Deggsie

  1. 1 small dot of 9415 applied to every 3rd tooth, installed new main spring, and she started up beautifully. Did need just a slight swing to get it going after a few clicks, but I understand this is normal as the cylinder escapement design doesn't allow for self start up like the Swiss lever design? For a 100 year old watch I am just happy to have it ticking again, and not too concerned yet about its time keeping abiity. Regards Deggsie
  2. Thank you NickelSilver. I trust your reply over one other I found, saying use vaseline and fill the hollow of the staff Have a good weekend and Happy Christmas to all.
  3. Hello all, hope you are all keeping well? Ive just cleaned and reassembled my first cylinder movement, it’s a 1900 (ish) Fontainemelon, 13 Ligne. Can someone tell me if I should lubricate the escapement teeth please, and what should I use - I was thinking moebius 9145 Grease? Or should they be Left clean and dry? Thanks in advanced Deggsie
  4. Hello Nucejoe and Canthus. Thanks for your replies, and I apologise I’ve only just got round to reading them. Nuce’ that’s a blooming good idea, an engineer like what I is should have thought of that too [emoji19]. I’ll mark with a very fine art pen tonight. I rebuilt this one last time at the weekend and think I may have discovered a contributing factor. There is much play (side shake) between the arbor and barrel. It is as serious as a sausage in an alley! Now this seems wrong, but why would that only cause an issue in the vertical plane??[emoji3166] Canthus, since I need to potential
  5. Here you go JDM. Sorry about the professionalism (or lack of it), it’s my first ever production. I hope it’s of use to help determine the cause of the movement stopping when in the vertical plane. For information, the movement has not been fitted with the calendar ring or calendar works. I also left the auto winder and cannon pinion off. Therefore it’s just the basic works. https://youtu.be/1znAJQro4DI I started the video saying “it was a series of short videos”, but managed to get it into one. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Hello JDM. Ok, will do. Please give me a little time tomorrow to get this for you. Thanks in advance for offering help. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hi All apologies for not updating you for a while on this watch. As some of you may recall I inherited a seiko 7009A 3040 and felt inclined to give it a service and get it running with a view to wearing it as a day watch. The movement runs well in the horizontal plane for 12 hours or more. However in the vertical plane it will stop anytime but never runs longer than 3 hours in the vertical plane. If I put the watch into the horizontal plane, give the balance a gentle swing it starts to run immediately. I have cleaned the movement 3 times, paying special attention to the dia shocks, end je
  8. Thanks for the pointer jdm [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks watchweasol. I’ll try and get some 8217 if it’s not silly money. I’ve got to place an order with cousins Uk Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hi watchweasol. I’m sure you are correct regarding seiko not intending for the barrel/ spring to be serviced. The fact that a man assembled it means a man can disassemble it, and once open it’s exactly the same in principle as the Swiss design the Japanese so eloquently replicated. I know there are some good debates on here regarding to service or discard, but nothing to advise on the best grease to use on the barrel wall. That’s really the advise I’m seeking. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Could anyone please tell me how to correctly service the mainspring/ barrel assembly on a seiko 7009a? I’ve managed to split the barrel with a very sharp knife and walked out the mainspring. What is the correct breaking grease for the barrel wall please. Should I also oil the spring? Thanks in advance Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I have been to two meetings, the last was cancelled due to covid19. Nice people and very interesting talks. But then I enjoy anything watch and clock related. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Yes. Elma WF pro is safe with shellac. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Awww. Mine are definitely much better JDR. [emoji6][emoji3][emoji38]. To be honest I don’t know, but that’s certainly an enviable display of screwdrivers. The grips aside, the main improvement I found was the precision ground stainless steel blade. Nice display box! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Isopropanol will soften and wash away the shellac. Take care with the balance and pallet fork. Just a quick dip of a few seconds, then straight onto watch paper to take off the excess, then use a puffer to dry the critical areas where the shellac bonds on the jewels. After 4 years using lighter fluid and thinking I was getting parts clean, I now use Elma watch cleaning product. Amazing how I fooled myself about how clean was clean. Also, try an ultrasonic which are very cheap nowadays. In general, IPA (isopropyl alcohol)is not a good cleaner, but is good for the final fine rinse if done
  16. I just had proper opportunity to use my new Bergeron Ergonomic screwdrivers with stainless steel tips. I never thought I’d hear myself say this, but really worth the premium price. No slip and screws look like they’ve never been removed. The stainless steel blades are still looking like they are fresh from the packet. One spend I’m not regretting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I’m not a chemical engineer, but..... I would say what you say is True, however the fundamental hydrocarbon in gasoline (which provides the cleaning) has still not changed. You are correct that there will be changes such as additives and of course the octane rating will be higher nowadays (which I think means it ignites at a lower temperature). If you can get hold of WF Pro, I bet it’s very close to the formula in the old book. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Here is the latest watch I’m pleased to have completed for my collection. I bought this watch in a pretty poor condition described as runs intermittently and in need of a crystal. Well, that was not very accurate. One of the dual springs was snapped, the lower Inca lyre spring was snapped and by fortune the cap stone was found in the works. That explains the intermittent running [emoji23] Anyway, here it is, 2 new mainspring, a new gilt ring crystal and a nice brown leather strap. I only wish it was larger in diameter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Hi all. Sorry I didn’t mean to try and make anyone’s statement look wrong, I was merely curious, as to be honest I’d never personally tried it. I think what was meant is that the majority of the gasoline can be hosed off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Hello everyone Apologies if any of you feel this should be a new topic, but it runs on perfectly from Jon’s previous message, and I’m not looking to turn it into a discussion. You mention “lock” of the pallet jewels. This is a topic I know little of. Could you please advise me of a good source of explanation? Thank you in advance and apologies if this seems out of the original poster’s topic Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. This is a Breitling Ladies Diver, which is half diameter of the Mens Breitling Marine Star. I’m currently restoring it but struggling to obtain a new crystal (chrome armour ring, diver profile). I’m going to try to obtain one direct from SternKreuz. In the photo, the bezel is missing but I have now managed to acquire one with the wire retaining spring which is a bonus. The movement is an Adolf Shilds, automatic (I forget the calibre) but it is running so well I’m reluctant to service it. New stainless steel crown with double o ring is on order from cousins, but the case seal
  22. Are you sure gasoline is water soluble? I don’t think it can be washed off, it’s a product of oil and therefore immiscible with water. Please tell me if I’m wrong. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. The original question relates to use of gasoline (petrol) and whether or not it will dissolve/soften shellac. A good question. Not mentioned is the use of stoddards, which is the lion share of some expensive proprietary watch and clock cleaning solutions. Stoddards is fine with shellac. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. And the NAME out of the hat is ........... (imagine drum roll........ continuing on to enhance the suspense)...... ANDY HULL Please pm me with your address and I’ll post it on to you mate. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. I have 270 to 280 in DU and DD positions. 210 to 240 in all other positions. The beat error increases when not in DU/DD. For a 1940’s movement I’m happy with this. The hair spring is as well formed as I can get it and I fear if I tweak it any more it may fatigue and break. Poising is definitely out, but I shall not be trying to rectify that just now as I don’t have the correct tooling. All that will come later - hopefully[emoji848] Have you considered installing a new mainspring? That is after all the root of all energy in the watch. The stored spring energy is converted to ki
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