I measured my Omega Caliber 1120 through an timegrapher app. (Dial Up, full wind)
I know the app is not very accurate.
I checked about +100s/d difference and sharply tilted graph .
The odd thing is that the bottom part of the graph is not printed every 100+- seconds.(red-colored circle)
Is this a feature of the timegrapher, or does it indicate abnormal state of movement component?
Thank you for the comments.
Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
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Thanks for the reply! I live in the US and I do have most of the stuff I need. I do have a full set of Moebius greases and oils as well. Looking at the 1900 for a while now, so I'll probably pick that up. As I said, I have a pretty good set of tools including hand levers, Presto Tools, Bergeon Screwdrivers, Dumont tweezers, loupes and other magnifiers, movement bed, Bergeon hand oilers and pots, Bergeon movement-holder, pith and peg wood, Rodico, etc, etc, etc. I have a couple of Seagull 6498s and a Seagul 2824-2 to practice destroying....er.....assembling and reassembling.
you left out an important detail by the way? A lot of this depends upon where you live.. One of the recommendations I like to give beginners is purchasing a brand-new 6497 Chinese clone as the Swiss originals too expensive in the clone works just fine.. Then you definitely want a timegrapher iin the beginning there very cheap now compared to what they once cost either the Chinese 1000 or the 1900 are both excellent machines. So if you have a new timing machine and a new watch you can llearn how to properly time things on the machine. You can look at your brand-new watch see how it functions. Then you can taken apart and put it back together and put it back on the timing machine and see if it still functions. Timing machines are more than just timing their diagnostic devices. There's so many questions newbies ask where if they just a timing machine it would help narrow the problem down considerably. Does not like you can hold the watch to your four head and absorb the knowledge of its problems you need ways of doing diagnostics. Then unfortunately magnetized watches don't run well they will have issues. aa unfortunate problem with watch repair is that is a heck of a lot of specialty tools that sooner or later would be really nice to have.. As long a basic tools you have to have. Then when you get in the lubrication is some of those are nice to have an they're not exactly cheap so this isn't exactly a really cheap hobby.
The latest 404 club member. A very new looking, but slightly broken "Sekonda Classique" branded skeletonized Chinese standard movement full hunter pocket watch. Listed as not working, spares or repair, it cost 99p plus shipping. The click spring was broken and the original movement holder is missing. The donors I have, all had had various different arrangement of barrel bridge and click spring, and none matched, so I swapped the whole lot. Barrel with mainspring, barrel bridge and click. The mechanisms are very easy to work on, and in general parts from one variant of the "Standard" movement have a good chance of fitting in another, but obviously not always. It is now running nicely, and looks quite attractive, although the over all build quality is not spectacular.
Hi, Just getting into watchmaking/repair as a hobby, and I have most of the tools and practice movements I'll need. My question is about timing (no pun intended) of purchase of a Timegrapher, Demagnetizer and Ultrasonic Cleaner. My plan is to practice on the movements, taking them apart, lubricating and reassembling repeatedly until I can begin to amass enough skill to begin to work on cheap and/or damaged watches, slowly building up to purchasing non-working, older, eventually vintage, watches and repairing/restoring. However, I'm just at the beginning stages, so my question is: Is it worth it to grab a timegrapher and demag now, and wait for the ultrasonic cleaner, should I wait on all of them, or should I grab them all as I will want to clean and relube my practice movements. Thanks! Imp