Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 minute ago, Kanie said:

And would that be true on all timegrapher results on all movements read?

Yes, on this timegrapher. In the main menu change the accuracy from 999 sec/day to 99 sec/day and you'll understand better. Only set it to 999 sec/day if the movement is wildly out in respect of the rate; so, gaining or losing more than 100 sec/day otherwise the timegrapher won't be able to give you a reading

Posted
Just now, Kanie said:

Like this one?

3B751C40-DEC3-406E-B0F0-86395161E16C.jpeg

So, at some point the movement was losing 326 sec/day, but the main display hadn't caught up to it yet to display that

Posted

As I said, if you set the display in the main menu to display the reading every 2 seconds then your main display will display the accurate reading every 2 seconds than every 40 seconds and really, not displaying an accurate figure, because the rate has changed before the 40 seconds has elapsed, so the timegrapher reads an average

Posted

Ok,understood…I will do the setting change when I get home from work and retest my movements…only had it one day and really having fun!

Jon,thank you so much for your help!!

Posted
On 8/22/2021 at 12:47 AM, Jon said:

Although your main readout says zero seconds a day, probably because in the main menu you have it set to 999 sec/day instead of a more accurate 99 sec/day, those small numbers are telling you that the movement is losing one second per day. In the main menu you can change how often those smaller numbers are displayed, such as every 2 seconds, 4 sec, 10, 20, and so on. I like to set mine to have a readout every 2 seconds, but that is just my preference.

Once you set the main menu to 99 sec/day, the main display that currently say zero sec/day will then become more accurate and reflect those numbers that say -1 sec/day, because at present it is not giving a reading other than a whole number and you want to see 0.1 sec/day (as an example) rather than rounding it to the nearest whole number which would be zero.

I have the same as model as pictured (Weishi 1000), my menu doesn't have this option discussed to change the display refresh rate as these instructions are inferring. Am confused lol.

 

Posted
On 7/25/2021 at 4:50 PM, oldhippy said:

Going off subject. Have you watched Kalle’s video on Ultrasonic cleaners? Many on here need to change how they clean watch movements.

Which video are you referring as I am having trouble finding this mate.

Posted
On 8/21/2021 at 7:47 AM, Jon said:

Although your main readout says zero seconds a day, probably because in the main menu you have it set to 999 sec/day instead of a more accurate 99 sec/day,

the problem with this suggestion is it only works for the 1900. It is not a feature of the 1000.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 8/21/2021 at 7:34 AM, Kanie said:

Hey,guys…Recently bought a Weishi timegrapher and would like to know what the smaller numbers mean that are under the main readout numbers..have searched the net but no luck…thanks in advance.

just so everyone understands what were talking about I snipped out an image from your question and circle the numbers I assume these are the numbers are asking about?

I have a theory about the numbers we can try an experiment. Go into the menu screen go down to the menu item which says test period which usually by default is four seconds change it to eight seconds and see if the numbers change their spacing on the screen.

 

 

time Grapher averaging numbers.JPG

Posted
23 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

the problem with this suggestion is it only works for the 1900. It is not a feature of the 1000.

Thanks John, I never realised the 1000 model was that limiting with the timing display. Another feature the 1000 doesn't have is different coloured traces for the tic and toc. I always advise people to spend a few quid more on the 1900

Posted

I think I could add this feature to tg.  What would be the most useful way to generate the average?

I was thinking a simple moving average of the last X seconds of data points.  For example a 10 Hz movement and 5 seconds period, one would take how many s/d off each of the last 50 beats was and average it.  Or, another way to think of that, is you find the actual time between two beats 50 beats apart and divide that by 5 seconds.  Mathematically, both of those will find the same value.

But one could also use an exponential moving average, which would have the effect of weighting the most recent part of the averaging interval move than the least recent part.

Posted

I found a teardown report on the 1900 and was happily surprised to find that it has one of my chips in it.  The C8051F360 was developed by a company I started in 1999 and later sold to Silicon Labs.  So my opinion of the Weishi has gone up a notch!!  I even own one!1915944004_2021-08-2511_56_50-PCB_Moderndesignseemstobedecentquality._ThomasStrand_FlickrMozi.thumb.png.b234c7af3f508164e0a8cb8cecbaff7c.png

  • Like 3
Posted
18 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

C8051F360

I'm pretty sure if you look somewhere in the discussion group we have a picture of the inside of the machine. Then thanks for pointing out that this isn't an ordinary 8051 I just thought it was ordinary nothing special. Roffealizing that I didn't grasp the 8051 could be enhanced looking at the 1000 machine it's the same chip. then the reason I know that the pictures exist on the group somewhere I photographed both machines.

What makes both machines interesting is a incredible degree of similarity to the point where they were both made by the same company. Very likely designed by the exact same person with the programming being very very similar.

Then isn't it amazing what you can find out there if you look? Somewhere somebody even did a schematic for the microphone minus all the values for the capacitors because of course are surfacemount.

then for those that don't know what enhanced 8051 is snipped out an image. But don't get too excited is no longer in stock in the US for sale as it's obsolete.

obsolete 8051 enhanced.JPG

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted

What they were thinking? 

Before I file it down, i'm wondering why the plastic jaw is shaped to project into space or floor a mov.t placed on its top. Maybe there is a reason just can't fathom. 

DSC_0642_copy_1024x768.thumb.jpg.fb9f2f540539458d76cb5bbe671962be.jpg

Posted
42 minutes ago, jdm said:

What they were thinking? 

Before I file it down, i'm wondering why the plastic jaw is shaped to project into space or floor a mov.t placed on its top. Maybe there is a reason just can't fathom. 

DSC_0642_copy_1024x768.thumb.jpg.fb9f2f540539458d76cb5bbe671962be.jpg

Here is mine

2022-01-27 11_32_12-20220127_110921.jpg ‎- Photos.png

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, jdm said:

What they were thinking? 

Before I file it down, i'm wondering why the plastic jaw is shaped to project into space or floor a mov.t placed on its top. Maybe there is a reason just can't fathom. 

Yes. Please file it down. And make the offset even deeper. I had an accident while using using my unmodified timegrapher. The jaws slipped while I was regulating the movement and it knocked off 2 dial indices and mangled the logo.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

While i still wonder if there's a debug serial port exposed somewhere that might dump cooked data, I'm strongly considering tapping the audio signal that comes in from the mic and connecting it to a 3.5mm jack hacked into the back of the nr. 1000. So i can use a program on my computer to monitor performance over an extended period. 

Posted

No need to go to that trouble.  There's already posts about how to connect the 1000/1900 microphone to a computer.  You just need the matching connector, a 3.5mm plug, a usb cable for power, and connect them up.

  • Mark unpinned this topic
  • Mark pinned, unpinned and featured this topic
  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

The Chinese microphones to be used with a timegrapher software or app get better and cheaper! Here is what I got today. I used the free tg timegrapher software (tg-timer 0.5.0)

D62928FC-40EC-42B2-87EC-F1CF09495576.jpeg

6740958E-6FE8-4C11-B04D-12346BDAD250.jpeg

3622ED41-DE84-47AA-A68F-1869EF8395F0.jpeg

D28628CF-01D0-4178-8B7E-57B5E006A442.jpeg

1B1C888D-6ADF-4E02-87AF-270B2B87C4DC.jpeg

67620034-E39B-406C-B6BA-20D5795300E8.jpeg

Edited by Kalanag
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Posted
30 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Just what I've been waiting for. Can you report back when you have some more experience with it, and the software ?

I use one of those microphones and Watch-o-Scope software, and have been very impressed with both.

The microphone does exactly what it's supposed to. You can put it on its sides to get all 6 positions. I use my casing cushion to isolate it from the wood desk, but if you're less lazy you can put rubber feetsies on it.

image.png.b86ee3e8263ff38fd65804623183ae30.png

Watch-o-Scope is super versatile, and the free version is completely functional. The paid version is just nice-to-haves, IMO.

You can calibrate it to your specific setup using a quartz watch (mine needed a 1.5 second/day adjustment), and every parameter is completely variable, which came in handy when I had a watch that ran at 21,306 BPH.

image.png.a43db4b3bd2ae7d9405c54dd0bd2fae6.png

I also really like the fact that you can see the raw waveform of what the microphone is hearing in real time.

image.thumb.png.c227e8b1cfcc216c86c36d983d304c8f.png

image.thumb.png.c591570372f4950c1c076ed4e3c1b704.png

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

My version is not a 3D printed „prototype“ anymore but industrially injection moulded.

The software Tg is well known and works perfectly: download page

There are cell phone apps as well!

 

Edited by Kalanag
  • Like 1
Posted
36 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

My version is not a 3D printed „prototype“ anymore but industrially injection moulded.

The software Tg is well known and works perfectly: download page

There are cell phone apps as well!

 

Interesting.  It digitizes the signal and sends it over USB.  This is in contrast to the other solutions talked about around here where the signal goes into the audio port.  Cute

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
    • One of the problems with trying to Photograph Phils things are that his enjoyment was building these things so they tended to E falls on what will see if I can find some earlier pictures or any pictures I wasn't even sure because I was looking for that specific picture for somebody else and even it got the last version and that would have been the last version. You will note that he put the indexing on something that he could unscrew it or whatever and it can slide back out of the way so the rest of the lathe can be used as a lathe. With the lathe cut are actually coming down from the top I was there once where he demonstrated how to cut a pivot with the setup it was really beautiful. Older set up if I remember it's not a worm gear assembly in the thing in between the stepping motor and the holding block I believe this particular one was like a 100 to 1 gear ratio. Earlier version with watchmaker's lathe. Even looks like he is the watchmakers bed and then switch to something he made. Then I do have other pictures and things of the rotary stage in use. In the raw so if you tube videos here is an example of one were somebody's mounting a three jaw chuck. At one time there were available on eBay they were not cheap but if you're patient like I was I found one cheap on eBay. After you watch the video it look at his other videos he is a whole bunch of other examples of the same rotary stage. That I do know there are other pictures examples and possibly videos you just have to track them down. One of the minor issues of finding this particular tech sheet for the unit is I believe it was a custom manufacturer and the company change their name but I remember the new name here's a link to the company https://www.ondrivesus.com/rino-mechanical-components                
    • Escapement adjusting always interesting and depending upon the reference always confusing. Okay maybe it's not always confusing but it does lead to confusion. I have a PDF below it's actually a whole bunch of separate stuff including a hand out that came from a lecture that's on you tube. Then from that we get this image Consequences of doing things especially if you do things out of order or you do things for the wrong reason. Oh and even if the watches working I made the mistake one so showing my boss how tweaking the banking pins on a full plate on the timing machine made the amplitude get better and now he thinks that's what they're for and I don't think a fully grasped exactly what horn clearance means. Consequence of doing things. Notice what it says about opening and closing the banking pins and total lock? So yes I've had that on a full plate where it won't unlock at all and that's the banking pins or a combination of things basically. So banking pins unfortunately get moved. One of the ways to tell if it's been moved is the look straight down at the end of the fork with the balance wheel removed. Power on the fork push at the one side look at it push it to the other side also look at it and compare anything with the center reference the balance jewel and see if both sides of the same. No guarantee after the same there in the right place but at least are the same typically when people play with things one side will be way off from the other because they had no idea what they were doing at all because of course it's a full plate and you really have to paying attention and even then there's still hard to do. Then the other thing that comes up like it shows below is people often adjust the banking pins to do all those other things as opposed to horn clearance which is all that it's therefore and maybe bonus Guard pin clearance although you're supposed to deal with the guard pin is a separate thing like single roller gets bent in Or out or sometimes physically gets moved in and out. Some full plates older escapement's typically pallet forks held together with screws and you can actually unscrew and move the entire assembly in Or out more complications to deal with.     Escapement handout wostep nscc.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...