Jump to content

Recommended Posts

As far as I can ascertain both Ronsonal & Essence of Renata are basically the same, it just that the former can be bought cheaper & in bulk from fleabay. As for Ronsonal or similar having any affect on shellac I have yet to see it, having left pallet forks in the stuff for a week or more, then blasted in the ultrasonic without any ill effects......yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I can ascertain both Ronsonal & Essence of Renata are basically the same, it just that the former can be bought cheaper & in bulk from fleabay. As for Ronsonal or similar having any affect on shellac I have yet to see it, having left pallet forks in the stuff for a week or more, then blasted in the ultrasonic without any ill effects......yet.

 

Yes, Ronsonal or lighter fluid will not attack shellac. Alcohol, however, will dissolve shellac and should be avoided on pallets and roller jewels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Afternoon Guys,

 

I have just purchased and Tissot with a 2824-2 that needs a refresh.

 

I have repaired 2 of the same movement before but this will be my 1st full strip and re build.

 

What's the best way of cleaning the parts either by hand or ultrasonic?

 

do I need specialist chemicals? bear in mind I wont be doing this all the time :)

 

list of parts would be appreciated.

 

Many thanks

James.

 

post-1206-0-56116000-1439987291_thumb.jp

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the movement is an ETA 2836-2. If so the strip down and drawings can be found on the ETA web site. It looks like the movement has had water ingress so a complete strip down,clean reassembly & lubrication will be required.

Agree with CB that acctually looks like a ETA 2836-2 movement . Tissot only has 21 jewels and has a different rotor .

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ginger, the 2.5x magnification should be fine for stripping and assembly, although being old and blind I tend to use a 3.5x. The 8" means you will have roughly 8" of space to work between the visor and movement.

If you are just starting off, I would recommend using Ronsol or Zippo lighter fuel and a small brush to clean the parts. An ultrasonic tank would be a lot better, but I would hold back on that and proprietary cleaners until you find out how keen you are going to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ginger, the 2.5x magnification should be fine for stripping and assembly, although being old and blind I tend to use a 3.5x. The 8" means you will have roughly 8" of space to work between the visor and movement.

If you are just starting off, I would recommend using Ronsol or Zippo lighter fuel and a small brush to clean the parts. An ultrasonic tank would be a lot better, but I would hold back on that and proprietary cleaners until you find out how keen you are going to be.

Excellent. I guessed as much on the 8".

Good tip about the lighter fluid :) thanks.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, I'm looking for watch cleaning fluids, I've not used any before! So I'm looking types & makes of fluids, I've not got a ultrasonic machine yet, so I'll be cleaning parts by hand in glass jars....... Cheers!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by bosstaki
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I've been absent of late due to decorating to keep the wife happy. But I'd like to discuss a conversation I had with a friend who is the technical manager for a leading Swiss watch manufacturer. I asked him what he felt was the best degreaser to buy at present. He said" without question & nothing can compare, isopropanol which is available from the chemist. I was surprised to hear that they also use it in the final rinse pot during cleaning". He said you can't leave the lid off as it evaporates. He said it's ideal for the last rinse because of this fact.

Has anybody else used this product. I've just order 5ltr off amazon for £15,so pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

I wash the parts in neophaline (benzine) but after that the parts sometimes have a thin layer of grease on them. For that I use isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).

But be very careful - the alcohol dissolves the shellac so don't use it on the pallets and the balance wheel.

 

Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

I wash the parts in neophaline (benzine) but after that the parts sometimes have a thin layer of grease on them. For that I use isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).

But be very careful - the alcohol dissolves the shellac so don't use it on the pallets and the balance wheel.

Bogdan

Glad you told me that, I was going to drop the whole balance assembly in to degrease the hairspring.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too use it as a final rinse when using water based cleaners in my ultrasonic cleaner, not for it's de-greasing qualities, but being alcohol it absorbs any residual moisture and aids drying.

Heed Bogdan's advice and never put anything with shellac in alcohol.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean the balance and hairspring mounted on the main plate. I rinse off the cleaner by submerging the plate in a basin of water at 50 degrees centigrade for about ten seconds, then blow off the excess water with a puffer. The plate is then placed in a container with alcohol and agitated with the puffer for about thirty seconds. I then remove the plate and place the plate onto a folded piece of kitchen roll to absorb the majority of the alcohol and gently use the puffer to blow air on the balance until it starts to swing correctly. At this point I remove the balance from the plate and store it separately until assembly. It is only at the point of assembly that I remove the balance jewels and clean them separately in lighter fuel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean the balance and hairspring mounted on the main plate. I rinse off the cleaner by submerging the plate in a basin of water at 50 degrees centigrade for about ten seconds, then blow off the excess water with a puffer. The plate is then placed in a container with alcohol and agitated with the puffer for about thirty seconds. I then remove the plate and place the plate onto a folded piece of kitchen roll to absorb the majority of the alcohol and gently use the puffer to blow air on the balance until it starts to swing correctly. At this point I remove the balance from the plate and store it separately until assembly. It is only at the point of assembly that I remove the balance jewels and clean them separately in lighter fuel.

Thanks for the detailed steps Geo, I assumed that would be the way to go, leaving the balance on the mainplate etc.. Just got confused, as Bogdan suggested not to clean the balance in alcohol.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do not soak the balance for any great length of time if you will could have a problem with the roller jewel. That's why I say to dip it only for seconds before puffing it dry.

PS I have been doing this for years when cleaning parts in the ultrasonic tank and have never had a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
    • I overhauled a ladies Rolex and noticed erratic performance so I stripped in down again and did fault finding. This is what I saw. The lower jewel (the one in the plate) is cracked and the hole is too big. Before discovering this, I stripped down and re-cleaned the main-plate (and parts) by hand with a fine natural fiber brush. I somehow missed the fault the first time and cannot understand how it was still running. Perhaps re-cleaning it dislodged some pieces of the jewel widening the hole? I don't know. Now I need to replace the jewel but don't have a Seitz tool. The Rolex part is 2130-0913 and the top and bottom are the same. The part comes complete in brass setting with KIF elastor spring and cap jewel. Note: I have never replaced a jewel. I do have a good vintage stacking set that I've used quite a bit.  Can I replace using a stacking set? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  
×
×
  • Create New...