Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I began taking work from a local jeweler and finding again that fashion watches can be surprisingly hard to open and close, so I decided to refresh my weaponry a little.

First, the oversize Jaxa tool. I have a bench opener but I'm too lazy to use it on every time.

PA101002.thumb.JPG.49aeec0d4e93d3ad4cf20ea108652339.JPG

It is built well and tight, with no play. The screws are fine thread and allow precise adjustment. Inserts are held by a flat spring instead of a lousy ball, and include the most used square tips - which is not a given with other types. Very happy about it for  $12.88, and will get the regular size from the same brand.

PA101003.thumb.JPG.5ca392827be4e873158739287b56fd82.JPG

Then the Japanese style openers, all the four types. Getting the original Seiko wouldn't have broken the bank but I decided to give these a chance for just $7.61 and receiving in the relatively short time of 2 weeks and an half. I think the rounded tips are good for safety but one may use a bit more grip by flattening it.

I have more coming and will add to this thread. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Peterburke340 said:

Best opening tool I ever bought. Expensive but worth every penny
7b587bf6a89e6ab15b045a41ab175d8d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agree, opening a Rolex (with the correct die) is a must with this tool.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Peterburke340 said:

Best opening tool I ever bought. Expensive but worth every penny
7b587bf6a89e6ab15b045a41ab175d8d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

7 hours ago, Peterburke340 said:

Best opening tool I ever bought. Expensive but worth every penny

Horotec original, £218.95 + VAT, before lugs holding blocks, and, of course, specialty dies.

The Chinese price aren't much lower, much is is the shipping cost. Chainda makes an exact copy
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32891251913.html

There is also another type that can do snap back and crystals. Now that is a real space saver!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32782220492.html

If and when I'll replace the always great 5700, I'll certainly want a compact one.

 

Posted

This is the Rolex tool I had. Worth its weight in gold. I have seen it on ebay for over £2,000. I had a few genuine opening tool, Longines. Tissot and Omega. My favorite was the Jaxa double handed tool, I never came across a screw watch back it wouldn't open.  

2e25a9553163a5dc0d44720136a1d061.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I feel like a bit of a barbarian, when I superglue an M10 nut (other sizes will also work) to the back of some particularly gunked up, cross threaded, corroded or mauled case back, but it does work, and if you take care when removing the nut/glue with acetone, the case will be none the worse for the experience.

I do have a couple of case back removal tools, but sometimes you are up against damaged notches or so much corrosion that you fear the tool may slip, or something will break. Don't try the superglue and nut trick on soft precious metals or some forms of plating, as it may not end well. Stick to stainless backs. One other obvious advantage is that you get a helluva lot of M10 nuts for £2,000

  • Like 4
Posted
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

My favorite was the Jaxa double handed tool, I never came across a screw watch back it wouldn't open.  

Just for you OH...

 

P1080209.thumb.JPG.8137cc09805ed1309ddb054434b4eb8d.JPG

It has a bit of a mix'n match assortment of bits but it's a great tool.

  • Like 1
Posted
23 minutes ago, AndyHull said:

I feel like a bit of a barbarian, when I superglue an M10 nut (other sizes will also work) to the back of some particularly gunked up, cross threaded, corroded or mauled case back, but it does work, and if you take care when removing the nut/glue with acetone, the case will be none the worse for the experience.

I do have a couple of case back removal tools, but sometimes you are up against damaged notches or so much corrosion that you fear the tool may slip, or something will break. Don't try the superglue and nut trick on soft precious metals or some forms of plating, as it may not end well. Stick to stainless backs. One other obvious advantage is that you get a helluva lot of M10 nuts for £2,000

     if you use penitrating oil on the back seam,     you might not need to go to all this trouble.   vin

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, Marc said:

Just for you OH...

 

P1080209.thumb.JPG.8137cc09805ed1309ddb054434b4eb8d.JPG

It has a bit of a mix'n match assortment of bits but it's a great tool.

   that tool looks very good!   can you buy one today?   vin

Edited by vinn3
s p
Posted
1 minute ago, vinn3 said:

     if you use penitrating oil on the back seam,     you might not need to go to all this trouble.   vin

It depends what is gumming or binding them up. Some of them feel like they wouldn't budge, even with an oxyacetylene torch. Don't forget, I'm not always dealing with the tidiest of watches when sprucing up candidates for the 404 club. Years of neglect pretty much comes as standard. Penetrating oil works in many cases, as does warming them in front of an electric fan heater, not too hot obviously, just enough to make them hot to the touch, in combination with penetrating oil may work, but if some ancient seal has turned into adhesive or the influx of verdigris and ancient DNA has set like concrete, then penetrating oil may not get to the heart of the problem.

Cunning and careful use of technique beats brute force and ignorance any day. If it feels like you are about to do some damage, then re-asses and try a different tack.

Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

That's the one. With the vice it was bloody good. Made some other opening tools redundant. 

Here's my case vice..

P1080210.thumb.JPG.4e49abb520f3e2d9f444f8ce3ab5a629.JPG

Mounted on a "T" block so that I can drop it into a bench vice to use it, but keep it in a drawer when not using it.

P1080211.JPG.cc800eb44259f81795f1036a10a3248f.JPG

 

2 hours ago, vinn3 said:

that tool looks very good!   can you buy one today?   vin

 

Cousins do this one..

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm

It's not too bad a price either.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Marc said:

Here's my case vice..

P1080210.thumb.JPG.4e49abb520f3e2d9f444f8ce3ab5a629.JPG

Mounted on a "T" block so that I can drop it into a bench vice to use it, but keep it in a drawer when not using it.

 

7 hours ago, vinn3 said:

   that tool looks very good!   can you buy one today?   vin

 

7 hours ago, vinn3 said:

   that tool looks very good!   can you buy one today?   vin

       thanks;  ill try to find one in the US..vin

 

 

Cousins do this one..

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm

It's not too bad a price either.

 

Posted
7 hours ago, AndyHull said:

It depends what is gumming or binding them up. Some of them feel like they wouldn't budge, even with an oxyacetylene torch. Don't forget, I'm not always dealing with the tidiest of watches when sprucing up candidates for the 404 club. Years of neglect pretty much comes as standard. Penetrating oil works in many cases, as does warming them in front of an electric fan heater, not too hot obviously, just enough to make them hot to the touch, in combination with penetrating oil may work, but if some ancient seal has turned into adhesive or the influx of verdigris and ancient DNA has set like concrete, then penetrating oil may not get to the heart of the problem.

Cunning and careful use of technique beats brute force and ignorance any day. If it feels like you are about to do some damage, then re-asses and try a different tack.

   one step at a time, if it is stuck - and, or not a screw back, i  use P.O. first.   vin

  • Like 1
Posted
47 minutes ago, vinn3 said:

   one step at a time, if it is stuck - and, or not a screw back, i  use P.O. first.   vin

Agreed.. start with the penetrating oil... work up from there to superglue.. then finally dynamite.  :P

Posted
20 hours ago, AndyHull said:

Agreed.. start with the penetrating oil... work up from there to superglue.. then finally dynamite.  :P

   maybe "torch and hammer" - then nitro

  • Haha 1
Posted
8 hours ago, jdrichard said:

What about this baby 

Looks like it can replace a lot of chucks, mandrels and faceplate on a lathe! 

  • Like 1
Posted
Looks like it can replace a lot of chucks, mandrels and faceplate on a lathe! 

It can open anything...over engineered. ..and I'm an engineer:)

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, jdrichard said:


It can open anything...over engineered. ..and I'm an engineer:)

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
 

    as an E, you might uderstand;  HONDA  made a new watch with a case opener in the box. it looked like a knurled disk, about 2 or 3 inch o.d.,   a hole in the center with the case notches. like an inturnal gear.    i did not keep the photo of it.   vin 

Posted
    as an E, you might uderstand;  HONDA  made a new watch with a case opener in the box. it looked like a knurled disk, about 2 or 3 inch o.d.,   a hole in the center with the case notches. like an inturnal gear.    i did not keep the photo of it.   vin 

Sounds like a nice option, include the opener with the watch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

Here's the new one I was waiting for, I have received it today for $33. Why am writing all this, I have ran into a $20 quartz which was surprising difficult to open, so I've ordered the tool and my initial review here. There are various other similar pivoting ones available, form $15 all-plastic one, to the "King of the Orient", $100+ Seiko S-261.

DSC_0073.thumb.JPG.8782fee99f70fd01a32ee52f3172b06a.JPG

Sturdy construction. The reversible blade has two widths, 12 and 16mm, but the prying slot (where present) of some snap-back watches is like 5mm wide. That will be easy to correct, even if a replacement blade is relatively expensive for about $10.

I think that in theory it could be improved. As it comes, the blade pries down, meaning that case hast to be put dial up and maybe one finger on top of it. Now, I'm sure that it will easily open 99.9% of snap-backs, and even remove stubborn bezels or similar feats, but I had liked it more if there was a way to hold down the case opposite side from the screw, and prying up.

However the Chinese (or whatever Swiss maker it was copied from) may be right after all. Because in theory, theory and practice are the same thing, but in practice, they aren't.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Still think the chinese copy of the Bergeon 5700 is the best value for money. Never failed to remove a stubborn caseback yet and without marks. Had mine for nearly a year now and at £160 as against £700 its a no brainer...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Since I've learned lots here I thought I'd share a tip I picked up elsewhere and put to the test... For that 6105/6309 bezel lume pip look I've punched a clear plastic bottle of water, sanded it for the frost effect, removed the (smaller) pip from a standard/cheap replacement bezel, drilled it out to 2.5mm and fitted it using a smaller punch - fresh lume to hold into place.  Pressing into place is a bit awkward but you soon get the hang of it, and the end result is pretty decent I'd say... The worst part probably being the drilling rather than the pip!      It started out like this: 
    • Ive asked this at a Seiko forum but I know there's plenty of experience here too...   As I have it the recently discovered servicing technique on these is that you stuff the crown full of gaskets and work it until the recessed washer pops, remove the washer, switch the gasket out, dish the washer and push it back into place, levelling out the washer in the process? First attempt did not go to plan... I tried using a plastic pusher to manipulate the gaskets in the crown... Wasn't strong enough and I was struggling to even get the gaskets in up until it broke.   Rethink consists of making/using actual tools: I don't have a staking set, so I've got the old man fashioning a metal pusher, essentially a 2.45mm OD tube with 1.6mm ID with a 6mm press the other end. Also got him on a dishing block/conical stake (sorry I'm terrible with terms) and a holder for the crown while I'm working on it...   I figure that's enough to do the process described above? Push with the metal pusher, dish the washer with the conical stake, press back in with wider flat press (drilled centre so it doesn't catch on the tap).    Plan is to stuff, press by hand and repeat? If that doesn't work by hand I've a drill press I could attach the pusher to for a little more leverage if needed. (Obviously I don't want to go too mad with that, and hopefully can avoid it altogether...)   Sounds like a plan? I'd welcome any advice here, since I really don't want to wreck a crown. Having replaced all the other seals though id really like to sort these too. I welcome any input/advice from those who have been there and done it... Thanks!
    • Hello and welcome to the forum.  Enjoy
    • You need to be more careful modifying the dial area. How does the bezel/lens fit on the front?
    • Recently inherited a box of my Grandfathers watches, nothing valuable, but some cool and some unique items.  Seiko SQ, my aunt went to Hong Kong in the 80's I believe and picked one up for my Dad and Grandpa. Below are picture, I believe its a 1987 5Y22-8A08. Put a new battery in it and it fired right up! Its probably been a drawer for 20+ years. Looks like he only wore it a few times.   Citizen Quartz 46-9181 with a seven jewel 7961B movement. It had what looked like some moisture damage, and a corroded battery. Swapped it with a 371 but it would only vibrate the second hand. Tried trouble shooting while in the case but eventually ended up pulling the movement out and cleaning with some naphtha and blowing it out and running it on the demagnetizer for a while to free up the movement before cleaning the band and case lightly oiling and reassembling everything. Now its back up and running. Based on the adjustment of the band I believe my Grandmother actually wore this watch, and I made the mistake of telling my wife that. Now its her watch! The most interesting so far is a 72-73 Benrus.  I tried putting a battery in it, but no joy. Ran it on my little tester, no signal from the coil, tried to spin it up. Just the slightest flicker of the second hand. Put some naphtha where I could reach, and tried again to spin it up. Nope. This watch is interesting in that it does not look like the back comes off, there is a window you unscrew to access the battery, a huge SR44. Ordered a crystal puller and will begin disassembly next week.  I was able to find a little bit about this watch though a google image search; BENRUS H010 TECHNIQUARTZ 1972 1st US made Quartz made by Benrus. Using a custom E-block with the step Motor, a power switch and a Moto Chip driven by MotoQ at 32KHz, on modified ETA mechanical movement. https://www.crazywatches.pl/benrus-h010-techniquartz-1972  
×
×
  • Create New...