Jump to content

Most Useless Watch Tool

jdrichard

By jdrichard
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

yankeedog Distinguished Member

yankeedog

Posted
Posted (edited)

I disagree with the premise.It has one use.so it is not useless..It would more correctly be called the least useful watch tool.

Edited by yankeedog
Content
  • Like 2
MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

Posted
Posted

I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.

 

  • Like 2
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.
 

Just need a proper plastic crystal press.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, jdrichard said:


Just need a proper plastic crystal press.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You mean a GS type press? I do have one, but for some reason I didn't think it would work on my monocoque Wittnauers, etc. My thinking is that the GS press that I have, you have to put the crystal facing down in the support. The case, generally without a back, has to go over the plunger facing downward in order drop over the crystal. With the one-piece case, the back is not removable, so the plunger cannot pass through a bezel or open back case. Am I wrong, or is this a different type than you are referring to?

vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, jdrichard said:

 

I think it is the crystal lift. Any comments or additions?5dae8ef0a28cd77837e3f882f9232491.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

   yes;  this is a very good tool.  IF you ever work on vintage watches.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

Posted
Posted

I use mine regularly, as vinn3 states on vintage watches.

Just used it the other day to fit a 14.4mm crystal onto a late 1950s ladies Certina.

That's the smallest crystal I've fitted and it was nearly at the limit of my tool as I just have the cheap Anchor brand one, but it has worked every time I have used it..

You also need the small base for holding the crystal for the tool to work though, this makes the claw grip the crystal just off the base of it so you can drop the crystal home whilst still compressed and then release the tension and it just expands into place.

  • Thanks 1
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, jdrichard said:

 

I think it is the crystal lift. Any comments or additions?5dae8ef0a28cd77837e3f882f9232491.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Good and useful if genuine bergeon. 

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

Talking about the crystal press with he flat dyes. They are cheap from amazon.bba683824e3f83b031b40ad72e960818.jpg

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
 

Not a quality make. Useful.

  • Like 1
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted

I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.

I wouldn't say it is  *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.

Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

  • Like 1
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted

I was going to nominate one of these... 

hammer.jpg&f=1

... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches.

Sacrilege to my eyes.

Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced  Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.  :P

  • Like 1
berniethebolt WRT Addict

berniethebolt

Posted
Posted

just used my crystal lift on a friends roamer(question posted earlier!) and it was a doddle both off and on.mine is a Liberty made in india,a good price and quite solid.does the job well.also use a crystal press when needed.both handy to have.B

  • Like 1
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just used my crystal lift on a friends roamer(question posted earlier!) and it was a doddle both off and on.mine is a Liberty made in india,a good price and quite solid.does the job well.also use a crystal press when needed.both handy to have.B

I find removing the crystal May be ok, however, installing it with those very touchy claws is way too difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I was going to nominate one of these... 
hammer.jpg%26f=1&key=b24d126953cea2e57cb43cdd67a9e6af46678fe4b0c8ddde7ceb61f3949788fa
... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches.
Sacrilege to my eyes.
Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced  Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.  [emoji14]

Is that a Left or Right Handed Hammer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Haha 1
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.
I wouldn't say it is  *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.
Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

I too use my thumbs to pop out the crystal and a front loader would need the claws??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, jdrichard said:


... and a front loader would need the claws??
 

I grabbed the crystal with the claws, then held the lift tool between my knees and gave the movement plate a playful tap with a plastic rod and the useless tool I mentioned above.

Not the most subtle method, but very reliable for sending the watch in to orbit, and you do need to do that at least once a week, or you 'aint trying hard enough. Second try worked like a charm, and the movement, crystal and movement plate parted with the case quite nicely.

Something makes me suspect there may be a better way of doing this. 

  • Like 1
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, jdrichard said:


Is that a Left or Right Handed Hammer?
 

Check the price. If it is left handed, it will be at least three times the cost of a right handed one. :P

  • Like 1
m1ks WRT Addict

m1ks

Posted
Posted

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:

At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.

Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?:D

  • Like 2
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:
At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.
Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?[emoji3]

Spring winder sets are easy to find on eBay. Or just do it by hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:
At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.
Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?[emoji3]

But you printed a mainspring winder?! Do you have a photo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
m1ks WRT Addict

m1ks

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, jdrichard said:


Spring winder sets are easy to find on eBay. Or just do it by hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes, they're very easy to find, less easy to afford. :thumbsd:

Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

Posted
Posted

I wonder if I could scale that up to work with my aircraft clocks as the NOS alloy mainsprings I've got I can't wind in by hand and they are too big for all my watch spring winders and too small for my clock spring winders.

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • AndyGSi
      Which Watch Have You Got Coming In The Mail ? Show Us !!!

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      Just arrived today with the case a little worse for wear so will probably just polish it back to the steel
    • Davis
      Rotor Screw

      By Davis · Posted

      I must be going nuts !! I checked the parts list to get a part number and see that there is no screw shown. Only a rotor assembly. I checked the rotor I removed and the screw is part of the assembly. What a stupid error Regards to all, Dave
    • AndyGSi
      Title: ETA 2836-2 Not Ticking After Pallet Fork Replacement – Need Assistance

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      This would have been seen before the fork and balance were even fitted if you carried out a test on the train wheel as a matter of course.  
    • JohnL
      Vostok Amphibia Leaks - own fault

      By JohnL · Posted

      With the amphibia there's also the gasket in the screw-in crown. If memory serves a correct seal for the back of the case is tricky to find as well, but maybe that's because mine are vintage. The newer cases are larger I think. 
    • JohnR725
      Balance Staff replacement methodology

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      As others have pointed out we discussed this subject in great lengths multiple times on multiple discussion groups. Then we have a subject that has too many variables and generalizations that make all the different things seem like one common removing staffs when it's not. There are variety of balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking or pushing a staff out. Rolex has one that the only way the staff is coming out is by pushing it out enough pressure is applied the river breaks with a very satisfying pop. This is because they hairspring cannot be removed until the staff is pushed out through. Then of course Rolex has a nice set of tools just for this purpose. A variety watch companies like Elgin made a balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking the staff have. For instance that principle is applied with jeweling tool you mention and here's the complete article down below that explains the procedure. Then of course there are variety watch companies Elgin And Hamilton that specifically designed balance staffs designed to be knocked out because the riveting shoulder is supposed to break. That of course would be the original staffs and probably the aftermarket do not have such features.   One of the problems with all of these tools would be the balance staff itself and of course whatever the balance wheel is made of. Personally I like the rule of if you're knocking the staff out and you gently tap with the hammer and it doesn't just pop out then you do not drive it out you do have to use a lathe. Because for variety of reasons staffs that are perhaps over riveted not quite the right size soft balance arms etc. driving a staff out that doesn't really want to come out it's not your best interest to do that.   A variety of American companies used friction fit staffs. For instance here's an example of Waltham Here's something interesting from Hamilton a specific type of 992 with a specific type of hairspring. Normally the Hamilton friction staff's do not have a groove to indicate such. Such as the Hamilton 992B or the Hamilton deck watch but they only have one staff which is friction. This particular staff has been marked because if you read carefully I suspect originally it might not have had a friction staff this was basically an upgrade. I know I've seen in the staffing assortments the blued hubs as a replacement components.    Then I'm attaching a PDF of Hamilton's thoughts on replacing balance staffs. Notice either the hub where the river can be cut away they don't have a preference it's whatever you like. Plus they mention the staff that is designed to break away. Although I have a suspicion you'll probably never see one of those as it would have to be an original staff and I suspect none of the after markets would have that feature. Hamilton technical data number 129 replacement of broken balance staffs.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...