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Generally speaking you can replace a pallet stone with another of the same width, and that has been shaped for the appropriate side of the fork (entry or exit). Let's say for your average vintage watch, a replacement stone from Seitz or other assortment will probably be just fine. You do run into issues with certain escapements for higher end watches from back in the day or modern watches with higher beats and more teeth in the escape wheel; often older high end escapements might have significantly different face angles from "common", and modern escapements have very different angles for sure. Usually it's possible and normal to replace an entire fork for a modern watch. With vintage/antique it can be very advantageous to fine tune the angle on the impulse face. One issue with replacement stones is that they are sometimes just too long overall, and need to be shortened. This is usually done on the end that fits in the fork as it just needs to be approximately squared off; I do it with a fine diamond grinding wheel (7 micron) holding the stone in a tiny vice. I suppose it could be done with a fine diamond file, but these will tend to chip the stone and while not affecting the function it is unsightly.

I picked this little Russian up and was enamored by the dial. When it arrived I discovered it had the stout Vostok 2209 movement. I found it was a very clean movement and only needed to be adjust for timing just a bit. The dial that had my attention looked to be silver plated copper with a rather dirty looking patina. The dial isn't engraved as I had hoped, but was stamped with the pattern formed during that process. I wanted to make that pattern pop so I painted the entire dial flat black and used thinner to remove paint only from the top surfaces. Was a bit tricky to accomplish but I think it came out great. Next I turned my attention to the hands. Somene had put a shiny black varnish on the hands as contrast, no lume was present. So I cleaned that of and since I didn't have any white paint, I used liquid white out. I know this is probably blasphemous, but it's a totally temporary solution until I get some lume I like. Placing the hands back on was a bit tricky as the fit was incredibly tight and tough to accomplish with my huge sausage fingers. I have a black leather strap on order for it. Very pleased with the results. Thank you for reading this.

Just finished up yesterday. RMD

Hi Monastic Is this the method you discovered with the wing fitting. in 265 manual attache 265.pdf

The click on a 72 is next to the column wheel, there's a pin sticking up through the bridge that you can hold to let down the power.

Restricted means the manufactures refused to sell due to the typical Swiss business practices, see Cousins UK litigation against the Swatch group. Obsolete means the manufacturer doesn't make the part anymore and there is no stock left. Either way they don't have and cannot get it.

This is my first time posting anything and I'm SURE it won't be my last ;). After inheriting a handful of watches from my father, who inherited them from his family, I began to research them on the internet. After a while the itch began. I started trolling ebay and moved to Jauce, changing my preferences by the week. I think I bought 100 watches in a 6 month period, which coincidentally was the amount of time I was in between jobs! I bought a lot of bargains, laughing to myself that no one else had seen these before me, which now leaves me with quite a few that don't run (but I'm Certain I can fix them!!!) and a bunch of rather dicey "originals" Oh well, feel free to mock me when I'm begging for knowledge!

Hi Vwatchie I am afraid I have not yet had the opportunity to look yet. We have had some really good news and I am about to be a grandfather for the fourth time so lots of things going on in the home preparing for the new arrival at our abode and my daughters. Soon as I get a day clear I will be investigating and taking pictures. Thank you for your interest and the video showing the speed of date change.

No, when it says "restricted" or "obsolete", they don't have it. It means they may have had in the past, and when was about ordering it again or for the first time, they got that answer from the manufacturer.

The 2850 tech sheet covers the 2879. ETA 2850,1,2,3,8 etc.pdf

Sold Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Seiko listed a barrell complete available for the 613 (206.613), but it has been unavailable since decades probably. Both 401.615 and 401.616 are listed compatible, and know to work well. https://www.thewatchsite.com/21-japanese-watch-discussion-forum/104345-seiko-6139b-mainspring.html Attached the technical sheet. The issue with getting a new original mainspring is now availability cost. For someone, $50 for something of dubious authenticity is objectable https://www.ebay.com/itm/401615-Main-Spring-For-Seiko-Movt-6105-6117-6118-6119-6138-6139-6309-6306-/303388168815 Another source could be the well know Adrian of VTA Australia https://www.vintagetimeaustralia.com So it's normal that people looks for alternatives. Now, the height of 1.01mm (which seems strange as normally sizes are every .05mm) has been given by the OP from a website. But someone else measured (with calipers - ideally you want a micrometer) at 1.05: https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2019/04/05/seiko-6139-6012/ and that is pretty much a GR2534X Eventually he fitted a shorter MS, but he got a shorter power reserve. It could be that my initial suggestion of a GR24571X works well also, but I never tried either one. Finally, when using a new MS no winder is needed, as its transferred straight from washer to barrel. 6139b.pdf

In theory you can work ruby with anything harder or as hard (diamond is worked with diamond), but it's so easy and cheap to get diamond lapping compounds and powders that it's really the way to go. I'd suggest a copper lap rotated in the lathe, but almost any material is ok- acrylic, iron, etc. For pallet faces I would use 1micron diamond, it will cut slowly but surely and leave an entirely satisfactory finish.

Not a chance. I searched, and the genuine item is a Diagono Chronograph, rigorously automatic, which start at about EUR 3,000 on the used market. I must apologize to Bulgari for having called them "so-called luxury", as they aren't that, rather a gloriously gaudy brand that I wouldn't wear unless paid for. And this particular variation, of which you can't find trace in Bulgari official catalogues, is seen only in a dubious website form the modest price of USD 181. Curiosity time. In papers is written and pronounced Bulgari, so why it's written Bvulgari? Because in the ancient times there was no such thing as the letter U. It didn't come in the alphabet the Romans had imported from Greece. So in the antique inscriptions there a V where you would expect a U. And the brand just tries to capitalize on that feeling of classical Italic times.

Thanks, and I'm very glad to hear that my pictures will be of use to you. I've serviced two other ETA movements since, calibre 2472 and 2772 (which I'll publish a picture service walkthrough of eventually). It's clear that the 2824-2 is an evolution of both as they are very similar. However, the calendar works of the 2472 is the most sophisticated with its true instant date change. The calendar ring doesn't move one bit until it flips over.

Not far away. I was in Sheffield, not far from Meadowhall, have friends in Doncaster and know Conisbrough.

Hi Mark and welcome to the happy factory

Right. Then 10 or 11m but the balance cock looks like a 15. https://www.time2tell.com/category-database/landeron/

With the movement out of the case I would first check that the stem pieces do actually clip together correctly. This might be easier by removing the female part of the stem from the movement and holding it in a vice whilst you then apply the male part of the stem with crown. Do they clip together as expected? Yes? Now put the female part of the stem back in the movement; check it is properly engaged / secured before proceeding. Now place the movement in the case. Look along the case tube ... is the stem nice and central? Put the case flat on your workbench and try engaging the male part of the stem with crown. You must push evenly along the axis of the stem; do not push at an angle. What happens?

Hi As described by Yankeedog it is symptomatic of low battery power or a gummy /dirty movement, Check the battery voltage , if below 1.3v change anyway. More than likley the latter. So dismantle the watch and remove the circuit assembly and coil then proceed to flush the mechanics with carbutetter. cleaner ( no residue) and leave on a tissue to dry, use a hand blower to accelerate the process. When completely dry lubricate the pivots and reassemble. If possible run in on a line release unit to get the oil into the pivots, re fit battery and test. Use synthetic Quartz oil. I have attached the 0843 tech sheets for your interest. 4599_seiko 0843A.pdf

Probably gunked up with fossilized oil.You could try the spray and pray method.Remove the battery.Take the movement out ,remove the hands and dial, and hose it down gently with plastic safe electric contact cleaner let it flow through the gears. lubricate sparingly with synthetic oil, after letting it dry thoroughly. This has worked for me in most cases.