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About LonglineOjoe

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  1. Hi all, this is a question born of distraction and I’m sure it’ll get me some interesting replies. is it just me or does anyone else have a problem lining up the escape wheel with the B&T bridge? I’ve taken apart and (mostly) reassembled 6138’s and 6139’s and not had much issue. I thought, naively, that the 7005a would be a straightforward strip and rebuild to practice on but I’m continually stumped! When I’ve finally got the escape properly seated, the rest of the gears refuse to move. Maybe I have too much time on my hands.
  2. You should see the movement it was attached to;). Looks like a bite out of the ratchet wheel!
  3. What about the dial codes, underneath the indice as opposed to alongside?
  4. Happy Friday! Can anyone tell me if something looks off on this dial?
  5. Not really, still a little too loose in the action. I did think about that C ring but its as tight as I can get it safely. I'll try swapping out the jumper, see if that helps. Thanks!
  6. Good Morning from Long Island NY! I'm in the final stretch putting together this watch (that I actually stripped down, cleaned ultrasonically and oiled!) and I'm about to attach the hands as I received my VTA holder early:). As I was winding through 24hrs I noticed that while the date changed crisply, the day was a bit sloppy, not precisely in the window. I removed the dial and have been fiddling with it, checking the spring and the gear alignment but it still seems too free, able to spin haphazardly. Anyone know what I'm missing?
  7. Hi everyone, would anybody versed in the 6138 movements be able to tell me if this is proper orientation for the yoke spring? The long side against the yoke? I’m having trouble with 2 of the same movements with the setting wheel lever complete sliding over completely to change the day.
  8. Hi folks! Would anyone know of a reference that would list the sizes and types of screws for the various movement parts of the Seiko (notably the 6138. ). I’ve torn down a couple of them (at the same time;( ) and I don’t really believe that some of the screws are where they ought to be. I’m trying to get a definitive sense of the movements, taking bad photos of the screws I have, poorly measuring them, just so I can feel more confident in the reassembly.
  9. Good morning, I hope everyone is staying as well as possible. I am currently working on a 6138-0040 watch and I’m looking for a one piece Movement holder. I’ve seen a few on eBay that are supposed to be for 6139’s but the seller thinks the ‘38’s should fit as well. On the reference sheets for the 6138 it mentions that Seiko had a movement holder for a 6139 that could be modified for the other but that would it would be impossible to use for the ‘39’s again. That doesn’t matter to me, I guess what I’m asking in this long drawn out message is: has anyone out there done this? Scrapping off t
  10. Hi friends, a quick question about chrono pushers. I’m replacing them on a 6138-0020 and noticed that the one I took out is shorter then the replacement. It's a little sticky too, although I attribute that to the new gasket? The longer ones work, just seem to stick out a bit. Would anyone know if seiko made different pushers for different models of the same caliber (-0040, -0030, 0020, etc)?
  11. Greetings all! Trying to make use of the quarantine time! I’m in desperate need of a 5126 or 5106 repair manual or even an exploded view. I had purchased a partial movement to repair/complete a watch from another find; all was going well until I realized there was an extra part on the bench that I didn’t remember taking out. After that everything snowballed. Springs and screws mutinied and jumped ship and pieces that fit well before now refused. I’ve miraculously retrieved everything that flew but am still a little stymied. Help?
  12. Good day fellow forum folks!!, I have a seiko question. It’s actually a bunch of questions. i know the first 4 numbers are the caliber code, ie 6139, but the last 4 on the dial often differ from the case back. Sometimes by only 1 number but sometime by the entire sequence. Would the first be considered the dial code, containing information like date, color, etc. and the other code information on the actual case, style, origin, etc? Would an extreme difference in the 2 codes indicate a swapped case back? Am I correct in believing that a interpretation of the serial number wi
  13. Thanks!, I did try Speedtimer but no luck. I'll try the other two.
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