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I like G&S crystal cement for dial markers.

Super glue is some funky stuff.It works but I have found that occasionally it will get deposited by vapor,and that these can only be removed by acetone. Additionally sometimes the things you want to stick together don't and the things you don't want to stick together do.

Correct and glue from the back.

The thing with the loctite 648 is it needs to be in contact intimately between two surfaces, but an interference fit will squeeze it out. Any exposed loctite will simply sit there wet, doing nothing. I know you tried soldering before, I'm saying it can work and is worth another shot. The loctite will come in handy for other things like a sloppy fit case tube or chrono pusher.

Hi Brian and welcome to the forum where advise is given freely. As regards your question some watches don't have gaskets but are fitted using UV cured cement/glue. The Guru on timex on the forum is JerseyMo who is almost exclusive timex man , If he dosen't pick up the thread message him direct. , Esslingers web site in the USA has a tutor page for measuring and fitting watch crystals, I suggest you have a look at that before proceeding. '

Loctite 648 is very good, and will indeed hold a gear on an arbor. But it needs a certain amount of surface area. I can pretty much assure it won't hold a sweep seconds hand on a pipe. Honestly aside from making a new pipe, solder is the best route. You'll want a good flux, it will get it to flow and hold to the steel hand. Tix is a brand of soft solder and flux that will 100% sure work with steel and brass alloys. I have good luck with regular electrical solder and flux too. I heat the assembled hand and tube on a little brass plate over an alcohol lamp. Put flux and a tiny piece of solder at the joint. Since you're already repainting the heat is a non issue.

Also, for a stronger bond, clean in solvent first.

I have a little bottle of clear nail-varnish on my table which I use for sealing the edges of dials where the paint is flaking and also to re-stick hour markers. Just a dab on the marker and lower it into place. Alternatively you can re-install the marker dry and dab some thinned nail varnish on the back of the dial where the holes are. This is safer than applying glue on the marker as you risk marking the dial with glue if you don't get it right and it moves around. Anilv

Glue: that is a good question!: i do not use "super clue" for any thing. (gets wet and turns white and fails,- for surgery. - use stiches) epxy in small amounts. for wood: "weldwood waterproof powered glue". for pallet jewels: shellac. what do the watch makers use? vin

I can't remember using 603. I use 243 occasionally for some crowns when they do not have a very strong friction fit. Even that is pretty strong. If I were you, I'd try the stuff you have already. For application, I usually use a needle or oiler. I apply too much, and then wipe away the excess with tissue paper.

I must say that with the better quality ones mentioned in the topic above I could open bazillion watches and a Swiss made one would not make any difference. The real issue comes with extremely tight casebacks for which you want a bench opener, or at least an excelled holder block and a two handles opener.

Hi like jdm I also have one of these chinese versions. Ok its not bergeon but it doe's the job. Like most things in life the justification for the expense is based on how much use is it going to get. If you are opening lots of watches on a regular basis and want precision then get a bergeon if not then these are adequate .

Fleabay? Pejorative term for ebay through out the English speaking world.

Check this thread:

I'm guessing Australian slang for eBay. Then the eBay is the place where you can pick up almost everything sooner or later if you're patient and know how to search for things or you just stumble across it by accident. A lot of times unfortunately the sellers sell things in assortments and won't describe, Or don't describe what they're selling. Sometimes that's outstanding for the buyer but it's a pain in the ass If you're looking for scrap movements and they don't have a description.

Just a quick intro, CGS is( a system of units) used in analysis of physical systems. C stands for centimeter, G for gram, S for seconds. . In this case, the relation between, torque( force applied at radius R) , springness and the amount of the resulting bend in a hairspring. CGS is suitable for and adapted in horology. Sounds difficult , it is easy. Best

Since an ID on this movement seems elusive one other suggestion is to dismantle and see if there are clues anywhere else. I have worked on a very old movement before where a makers mark was on the underside of a bridge.

I presumed JD was thinking or talking auto quartz movements. The expression in question applies to me personally, I am glad it dose, since it evidences, I must have a " brain" somewhere. .

Yes I hijacked this thread, did not mean to , sorry sorry.

Your measurements of 8.75 x 21mm put this at a ligne size of 3.75 x 9.25 (or perhaps 4 x 9.5). There aren't that many movements of this size and the most common is the FHF 59 (which other manufacturers used as well and gave their own movement ID to). Unfortunately it's not this as the keyless works and bridge layout are completely different to your movement. Which brings me on to your probability of an ETA 651. That's a no ... at 10 x 22.7mm it's larger than yours and of course the keyless works (and bridge layout) are different. In my searching I had also come across the ETA 746 but it's the same story. I have spent ages looking through stuff trying to find your movement but no luck. I've found setting lever springs that look similar but then a no-go on the movement size; a (Van) Buren movement looked promising but didn't tie up etc. etc. I hope someone strikes lucky!

What about super glue.

I just checked through my 1949 Catalogue Officiel, but sorry its not in it.