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The spring is not laying flat so that tells me it has twisted, so when it is winding up it could be rubbing the inside of the barrel cap. Just looking at a picture of a spring we cannot tell is it is loosing or lost its strength I forgot to say you should replace it.

I'm looking to aquire an original IWC case to match with this fantastic watch I have in my collection. Can anyone lend some advice other thatn search EBay? Or should I just leave this one as is? BTW, I bought this watch for $10.00 Well it was missing the case, the stem was broken and rusted in the movement, the staff was broken. So I think it was a great deal in the end...

No, install it after oiling.

Don't worry, he's going to pop it up on ebay, and throw in the hammer for free, in case it needs further delicate adjustments.

Well maybe a little harsh. If offered the fake or the real McCoy, I'm sorry but gimme the Rolex. If offered the fake or the money to buy the Rolex, I would probablyl take the cash. Having said that, I have no personal driving desire to own a Rolex. They look fine, don't get me wrong, but I probably got far more enjoyment of the Chairman Mao smoking watch than I would out of a Rolex. I'd only go and loose or break the darned thing anyway, so gimme the genuine Rolex, but the first thing I'm going to do is flog it and buy a bunch of other stuff that I actually want. There is a rather nice looking Omega down in a certain Stirling jewelers that gets the occasional sideways glance as I go past though, so my steely resolve to stick to sensible or affordable purchases cannot be absolutely guaranteed. The fake Rolex would however make a very fine member of the 404 club of course.

Yes, I have made the measurements and gotten additional details from the seller. I also took the watch over to my watchmaker friend and he thinks the fit will be fine. Will review all latter this evening and go from there. Of course while at his shop he mentions that this gem of a watch just came in and if I would be interested. Damn thing fit my wrist perfectly! and so the phase "when it rains it pours".

Don't want to start a back and forth, but if someone doesn't want to put braking grease on their own automatic watch, so be it. Manufacturers and professional repairers do use it, for good reasons, and not because it's fun to apply and fun to have a couple or few more expensive lubricants on hand. As a professional I recommend it, and against not using it. But again, on one's own pieces do as you please.

If you can,t get a new replacement ( best option), I guess the movement itself is a tool to measure the strength in. I instal and measure the running time.

The best I've used is the K&D cannon pinion remover. It's now made by Bergeon (well, whoever makes it for them); there was a discussion here a while back and it seems it's really not as good as the old K&D ones. The Bergeon has fewer jaws and doesn't seem to work well with smaller cannon pinions. Here's the way it looks, Bergeon 4854, if you search Ebay or used tool sites the K&D looks the same.

JD orJB ? epoxys' are all same, i looked it up, "cyanocrylates" . what i want is a compromise between shellac and epoxy. i remember "non hardening Permatex" - no longer avialable. somthing resintant to alcohol, but removed with acitone. too much to ask for ? vin

an instrument shop would calibrate gages , clocks, cameras, wataches and repair all kinds of equipment. a visit there caused me to collect watches. vin

I have an identical set. They came to me in a job lot from the estate sale of an old watchmaker who apparently was trained by the army prior to his being demobbed after the war so that he had a trade to go into.

similar to taht but I need the bezel and case back. But, now that you show this I realize I can serach the international ebay sites too. And this one looks like a winner - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IWC-83-Vintage-Forties-stainless-steel-Watch-case-35mm/264487958699?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3Ded074e9107c7484c930ebfff3189854f%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D264262233633%26itm%3D264487958699%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

I think that you misunderstood the use of breaking grease. It does not apply to the to the lid or the bottom of the barrel (that can be left unlubricated), but only to the outer wall, to help the bridle grip there. Hence, it never goes in between coils. Correct, but we don't know how the OP measured the power reserve, if on the wrist, on the auto-winder, or winding at the barrel. If there is a large difference between first two methods and the latter, problem is with the winding. Otherwise, with something related to the barrel, and isn't said that is always the spring. Also we don't know if it was flat when inside the barrel. It could have been distorted while pulling it out, which is always a somewhat violent action.

I wonder how those drill bits managed to be "liberated" from the MOD in the first place. Perhaps the old adage "If it moves, salute it, if it doesn't move, nick it, if its too big to nick, paint it." applies.

Hi As Andy says plus a large pack full of bricks and full combat kit, the rifle alone weighs in at 5lbs and thats if you are lucky if not its the Jail, a five strech depending on the judge may be even locked in the tower.

hammers and fakes work well together.... sorry but I've seen too many coworkers loose thier jobs becuase of copyright infringment.

48hrs of extra "drill" practice and square bashing.

While not the very best I've seen, that doesn't look bad. I'd look elsewhere for the poor power reserve. Seiko's can wear oval at the barrel arbor holes in the main plate and bridge so check there, then endshake etc in the train and establish that all moves very freely before looking to the escapement.

Another emoji watch by leon piradet. Another slava with hard to quibble over numbers. No doubt sad due to the state of it's crystal.

I've been following this thread and found it mostly interesting.Low amplitude can be caused by several things but if it isn't that a pivot that broke of they mostly have one thing in common, friction. To have an genuine understanding in what is happening in the escapement and what could cause the low amplitude one have to understand the function of it. So I always urge people to go the long way and get a thorough understanding in what is happening in the area you are fault finding . Sometimes one gets lucky and it is just a easy fix with cleaning and correct lubrication, another time it's crocked banking pins or loose/damage pallets. About oiling the pallets I never used to do it until I watched one of Marks videos where he showed how to put a small amount of oil on the pallets face, run the escapement for a couple of turns and after that removing the pallet fork and cleaning of the excess oil from it and after that putting it back again. This method works like a charm for me. I put a small PDF together so the less gifted like me can follow the discussion in this thread and maybe get a better understanding of what Nickelsilver and the boys/girls are talking about. The Escapement function.pdf