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Fixing a friends dad’s old Waltham and it needs a new staff. Step 1 is to remove the balance cock. Step 2 is removing the balance with the roller table and hairspring attached. Step 3 is removing the hairspring. Then have a look at the good pivot. It will provide a good reference to measure for the new pivot. Step 4 is to remove the roller table. Lots of different tools and techniques here but I have an old factory tool. Step 5 is to cut off the old riveted balance away from the staff, on a lathe. Step 6 is to punch out the old staff from the balanceStep 7 is to measure the old balance staffThen you prepare a piece of blued steel for the Lathe to cut the new staff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just took a quick look at the 2824-1 stem and it says you should use an ESA 952.101, this is the generic stem without the collar and fits the following movements: ESA 952.111 ESA 952.121 ETA 2801-1 ETA 2802-2 ETA 2804-1 ETA 2804-2 ETA 2821-1 ETA 2822-2 ETA 2824-1 ETA 2824-2 ETA 2834-1 ETA 2834-2 ETA 2836-1 ETA 2836-2 ETA 2846 So if you got one ETA 952.101 stem and it still will not work then it is time to get the sleeves rolled up and investigate the key less work ;).

usually i use a balance tack but i only have one so if i have an extra balance iam working on i place it with bottom pivot down on a piece of rodico. i dont like flipping balance over because i always grab it by the cock, unlike mark how he grabs the cock and balance together. i guess its a matter of preference. placing it briefly on the desk like mark did will not cause any damage to the lower pivot though.

The Seagull clones I’ve seen all have the eccentric dial feet screws as in the photo below. I think they’re based on the 6497-1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More progress Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi CW have a close look at the holes some have nylon/ plastic inserts which grip the feet aka miyota. the grip is sufficient.

Thanks, jdrichard! That's how I've been doing it, too. You can't be too careful...

Sure looks like a 5626-5090 from somewhere 1975-1976 can't see the serial number clearly.. I haven't seen many of these so it might be rare but in mint condition these should fetch around 200-300$ since it isn't the popular "King Seiko". Unfortunately I haven't fitted any movement in one of these cases... Since I collect anything with a movement in it I would say ..yes it's collectible.

There were a bunch of movements using the same balance staff and therefor probably the same balance complete. Here are some: 5201, 5202, 5203, 5204, 5210, 5220, 5230, 5260, 5270, 5290, 5400, 5401, 5420, 5430, 5460, 5470, 6400, 6420

I collected a bunch of balance numbers for the Citizen I worked with and think yours should be 039-39. 039-11 cal 1800 039-18 cal 2710 039-22 cal 2201,2101,2210,2110 039-39 cal 5201, 5202, 5203, 5204 039-41 cal 0180 039-45 cal 2111,2211 039-69 cal 6601 039-85 cal 6501 039-1020 cal 8200 On the bay there is an ad for these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Balance+complete+CITIZEN+520*+5230+5260+5270+5290+bilanciere+completo+721+NOS&_sacat=0

Today I shall be wearing this old USSR Sekonda I've had it ages and never got round to reluming the hands.

I'm slowly working my way through all of the recent accusations. Today's watch of today a USSR Sekonda, which needed some major hairspring massaging, and the removal of every bodies favorite bicycle chain restorer (WD40). It says USSR, so it is clearly pre-1991 but its exact age, I don't know. It will need a crystal, but it is now ticking along nicely. Another one for the club. I seem to be monopolizing this thread somewhat, has anybody else recently picked up something nice to inspire us with?

Or did you remove the riveted pieces from the shoulder edge? Am I making sense?

I'm not really sure what you mean with "No movement autowind to start watch going. Just spins". You have to bear with me since English isn't my native language. The auto winder will just spin, the winding stem will normally not have any impact on this functionality. To check if the winder stem is correct one have to try it out in all 3 positions . Position 1 - Normal winding action, you should feel a slightly higher resistance. Stem is fully pushed in. Position 2 - Quick date set. Stem is pulled out a notch. (In the middle) Position 3 - Time setting. Stem is pulled out completely. All the measurements has to be correct. Sometimes on the 28XX series stems you don't only have the length of the guide pivot as a restriction but also a small collar in the end. I attache a picture so you can see what i mean. As I understand it works in Position 2 and Position 3 but unsure if you mean the Position 1 winding position isn't working. If that's the case you have to adjust the two end restrictions a bit to let the winding pin get a bit deeper. When it's perfect you should see the winding pinion interact with the ratchet wheel when you wind the stem. If they interact and the movement isn't ticking then something else is wrong and the recommendation is to tear it down, give it a good clean up, oil and grease and go from there.

You are growing in confidence in making new staffs. Nice photos so members can see what you do.

Reversers are interesting for lubrication. Some of them you can use the Lubetta V105 Which is basically an oil like 9010 dissolved in a solvent. But Rolex in their tech sheet shows that lubrication only wants to be in a very specific location and nowhere else. So that's why the recommending the surface treatment to keep the oil from spreading.

Clockboy told about his one which features multifrequency and got several transducers, if I understood or remember right, use of several transducers notably impeoves machines performance.the price is high though.

I usually pick it up out of the movement and flip it around right away or hang it from the balance holder from the cock (name change needed:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have often wondered about laying one of my stereo speakers on its back , placing a large dish over the woofer,putting the cleaning solution and parts in a plastic jar and listening to Jethro Tull.

I see you have removed the balance wheel assembly from the balance cock and not the hairspring from the balance wheel, so getting it back running shouldn't be too difficult. You could save yourself a lot of grief in future by cleaning it fixed to the main plate, then cleaning the balance jewels separately in a small dish with one dip or lighter fuel. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qtQhRKPgjY4