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centerwheel

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  1. There is a Jasco made Naphta sold in hw home improvement stores in the US. It's described as being the thinner for varnish and enamel. It also says that it cleans greasy, waxy, oily surfaces and machine parts. Would this be safe to use on watch parts including balance complete?
  2. Does it matter that Ronsonol, having been acquired by Zippo, seems to not contain Naphta anymore? There is now no mention of "Naphta" anywhere on the bottle. It only says "Contains Light Petroleum Destillate". Does the new product work as well as the old one did?
  3. Thank you! This procedure would work great! I am happy to learn that my fear of "unprotected" pivot damage was not supported by the experience and the courses you took. I will follow it in the future.
  4. My cleaning machine is Elma (Elmasolvex SE), a mechanical cleaning machine. Mark L. recommends to clean in the machine the balance complete (installed on the main plate) with the upper and lower jewels (including caps) mounted in their Incabloc blocks. The reason given is to protect the balance pivots during the clean & rinse cycles. Later the jewels would be disassembled, cleaned in a One Dip, oiled, and reassembled. But this procedure will almost ensure that the balance wheel pivots will not be cleaned because they are sitting inside their respective jewels, nor will the Incabloc blocks get cleaned because the chatons are sitting tightly inside them. Nowhere could I find how those would get cleaned later. Is this something to worry about? They would get full cleaning if the jewels were removed prior to going into cleaning basket. But then, how about those pivots? Would they really get damaged? What works best?
  5. On an automatic, I think, you need a breaking oil on the barrel walls. Perhaps 8217 would be a good choice.
  6. I had a problem like this one and it was due to a bent pivot of one of the train wheels.
  7. Indeed, D5 should not be used on the wheel train, but it is sometimes recommended on center wheel. In this case it would create a problem because D5 would get inside the tube. But whether it is D5 or not, using two different oils (one for the center wheel and one for the fourth wheel) creates a difficult to control situation where they might mix, etc. So, as oldhippy suggested it's better to use the same oil for both, and 9020 seems like a good compromise.
  8. I don't use pliers to close the lid. Instead I use the brass tweezers. Not the ends but the mid section.
  9. This sounds tricky and problematic. I will probably go with using the same oil, 9020, for both. But I still want to try to find what ETA recommends for this movement. So far, I've been unsuccessful in finding these info but it's probably buried somewhere in ETA archives.
  10. If I could use the same oil for 4th wheel as for the center wheel then there will be no problem. So, how about using 9020 for both? I am asking only because I have a bottle of it.
  11. I decided to restore an old (and cheap) Oris watch, which is based on an ETA 969-N manually wound movement with a central seconds hand. This one has the main wheel and fourth wheel stacked, where the fourth wheel arbor goes through (inside) the center wheel tube-like arbor. The center wheel upper pivot is held in place by a jewel bearing in its own sub-bridge. The fourth wheel upper pivot is held by its jewel in the train bridge. Before I install the train bridge I want to lubricate the center wheel jewel (one in the sub-bridge). For this I plan to use a heavy D5 oil, and here is the problem: When I use D5 on that jewel it will not only lubricate the center wheel jewel but I will unavoidably get in also spread inside of the tube-like arbor of the main wheel. The fourth wheel needs light oil (9010) on its bearing in the train bridge, but now I have a situation where the heavy D5 oil inside the main wheel tube pivot is getting on the fourth wheel arbor. So, the forth wheel arbor will be "fighting" the coat of a heavy D5. Will it affect the watch operation? If so, how should I proceed?
  12. I am confused but I think, perhaps this may not be correct. First, to keep all length as positive numbers, the size measured in (A) needs to be subtracted from size determined in (D), not vice versa. The stem also needs to end up being shorter so it will not bottom when the crown is screwed down. That additional space of 0.15mm has to be ADDED to the result of (D) - (A), thus increasing the amount to shorten the stem by. So, the formula should be: Length-to-be-cut = (D) - (A) + 0.15mm
  13. Yes, I have. With some luck it is possible to use them on the upper. The main issue is that their arms are shorter but they catch. Not by much but for practice might be ok to complete the assembly. Just make sure to push (with a pegwood) the spring end, one with pivots, all the way towards the jewel setting. Btw, I got a set of genuine Incabloc settings for practice and had no such problems with the spring getting lost. So, on the positive note, the "flying" springs are most likely just an "Asian" phenomenon - they make their own Incabloc springs which are similar but differ enough to cause grief.
  14. I always remove the balance from the cock for cleaning IF the balance is not using Etachron system. With Etachron, such as 6497, I tried it once. Taking it out was easy, but pushing the stud back into the jaws of the stud holder during reassembly was tricky (and dangerous). I had to apply quite some force while praying that my pushing "tool" would not slip. The regulator pins needed to be spread out some to allow for the hairspring to drop through (easy), but then on reassembly they need to be closed back - again hoping for the best while working so close to the hairspring. I would not try to repeat this process every time I clean the movement.
  15. Does it mean that the balance with cock, but without hole and cap jewels, goes on the mainplate for the wash?
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