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centerwheel

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  1. Thanks for the suggestion. I agree that the pallets oiling might have caused this. Either too much or not enough oil. I used Moebius 9415 applied to the impulse face of the entry and exit pallets. I let then the movement run for a few minutes, then took the pallets off and clean it before reinstalling. Question: How do you apply lube on an escape wheel while the movement is running? I've never seen it done.
  2. I am doing service on a ETA 2836-2 (Sellita 220-1) movement. This is to practice, the movement is new. At this stage I have the movement still without calendar and without automatic winding. Everything has been cleaned, oiled, the pallets oiled then cleaned again. Mainspring removed, cleaned, breaking grease applied to barrel sidewall, mainspring put back (using wider), and finally oiled in the barrel. The arbor bearings were oiled, as well as the barrel bearings. The problem is low amplitude. The photo is for a fully wound watch in dial down position. The dial up shows the amplitude dropping to 170 degrees, which is 29 degrees less than dial down. I am thinking that this may be balance related. Should I take the balance out, clean it, clean the balance jewels, oil them, and see if this helps? Any other suggestion would be also very appreciated.
  3. There is a Jasco made Naphta sold in hw home improvement stores in the US. It's described as being the thinner for varnish and enamel. It also says that it cleans greasy, waxy, oily surfaces and machine parts. Would this be safe to use on watch parts including balance complete?
  4. Does it matter that Ronsonol, having been acquired by Zippo, seems to not contain Naphta anymore? There is now no mention of "Naphta" anywhere on the bottle. It only says "Contains Light Petroleum Destillate". Does the new product work as well as the old one did?
  5. Thank you! This procedure would work great! I am happy to learn that my fear of "unprotected" pivot damage was not supported by the experience and the courses you took. I will follow it in the future.
  6. My cleaning machine is Elma (Elmasolvex SE), a mechanical cleaning machine. Mark L. recommends to clean in the machine the balance complete (installed on the main plate) with the upper and lower jewels (including caps) mounted in their Incabloc blocks. The reason given is to protect the balance pivots during the clean & rinse cycles. Later the jewels would be disassembled, cleaned in a One Dip, oiled, and reassembled. But this procedure will almost ensure that the balance wheel pivots will not be cleaned because they are sitting inside their respective jewels, nor will the Incabloc blocks get cleaned because the chatons are sitting tightly inside them. Nowhere could I find how those would get cleaned later. Is this something to worry about? They would get full cleaning if the jewels were removed prior to going into cleaning basket. But then, how about those pivots? Would they really get damaged? What works best?
  7. On an automatic, I think, you need a breaking oil on the barrel walls. Perhaps 8217 would be a good choice.
  8. I had a problem like this one and it was due to a bent pivot of one of the train wheels.
  9. Indeed, D5 should not be used on the wheel train, but it is sometimes recommended on center wheel. In this case it would create a problem because D5 would get inside the tube. But whether it is D5 or not, using two different oils (one for the center wheel and one for the fourth wheel) creates a difficult to control situation where they might mix, etc. So, as oldhippy suggested it's better to use the same oil for both, and 9020 seems like a good compromise.
  10. I don't use pliers to close the lid. Instead I use the brass tweezers. Not the ends but the mid section.
  11. This sounds tricky and problematic. I will probably go with using the same oil, 9020, for both. But I still want to try to find what ETA recommends for this movement. So far, I've been unsuccessful in finding these info but it's probably buried somewhere in ETA archives.
  12. If I could use the same oil for 4th wheel as for the center wheel then there will be no problem. So, how about using 9020 for both? I am asking only because I have a bottle of it.
  13. I decided to restore an old (and cheap) Oris watch, which is based on an ETA 969-N manually wound movement with a central seconds hand. This one has the main wheel and fourth wheel stacked, where the fourth wheel arbor goes through (inside) the center wheel tube-like arbor. The center wheel upper pivot is held in place by a jewel bearing in its own sub-bridge. The fourth wheel upper pivot is held by its jewel in the train bridge. Before I install the train bridge I want to lubricate the center wheel jewel (one in the sub-bridge). For this I plan to use a heavy D5 oil, and here is the problem: When I use D5 on that jewel it will not only lubricate the center wheel jewel but I will unavoidably get in also spread inside of the tube-like arbor of the main wheel. The fourth wheel needs light oil (9010) on its bearing in the train bridge, but now I have a situation where the heavy D5 oil inside the main wheel tube pivot is getting on the fourth wheel arbor. So, the forth wheel arbor will be "fighting" the coat of a heavy D5. Will it affect the watch operation? If so, how should I proceed?
  14. I am confused but I think, perhaps this may not be correct. First, to keep all length as positive numbers, the size measured in (A) needs to be subtracted from size determined in (D), not vice versa. The stem also needs to end up being shorter so it will not bottom when the crown is screwed down. That additional space of 0.15mm has to be ADDED to the result of (D) - (A), thus increasing the amount to shorten the stem by. So, the formula should be: Length-to-be-cut = (D) - (A) + 0.15mm
  15. Yes, I have. With some luck it is possible to use them on the upper. The main issue is that their arms are shorter but they catch. Not by much but for practice might be ok to complete the assembly. Just make sure to push (with a pegwood) the spring end, one with pivots, all the way towards the jewel setting. Btw, I got a set of genuine Incabloc settings for practice and had no such problems with the spring getting lost. So, on the positive note, the "flying" springs are most likely just an "Asian" phenomenon - they make their own Incabloc springs which are similar but differ enough to cause grief.
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