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About meanoldmanning

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  1. The newest 7002 is over 20 years old and most you run into are pretty neglected. The several I’ve worked on can achieve pretty good amp, usually in the mid to high 200s but nothing much more, so I’d be inclined to rule out overbanking. Timegrapher traces would be helpful though The barrel/arbor/ms is ‘sealed’ and intended to be replaced as a unit. The barrel can be opened but the equivalent GR mainspring is a bit weaker even than the OE. The b/a/ms is no longer available but the unit intended for the 7S26b can be used and can still be found if you look Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. It’s called dynamic oiling. Rolex started recommending the method several years ago. You basically have the mov’t running and dab oil onto the face of a tooth through the inspection port from the dial side. It is pretty tricky and requires high magnification and lighting from under the mov’t. There are a few vids on YouTube that show it. There’s one in particular that demonstrates it really well. I’ll see if I can find it. EDIT - found it. Dynamic lubrication part starts around 40:29 https://www.youtube.com/embed/Xnh7O22mduE?feature=oembed] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Somebody commented about the blue coating on Instagram and said it was layout fluid, or machinists blue as I referred to it earlier. Google Dykem layout fluid. As mentioned previously also it could be something else like a brushed or sprayed on masking fluid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Ah, ok so I read it right the first time. I’m not sure what it is if it’s used as a protectant. Maybe some sort of easily removed (water or mild solvent) polymer. [EDIT] the blue coating maybe is a temporary maskant. They are used when coating, media blasting or other finishing processes to protect the area you don’t want affected by the process. There are types that can be pealed off and others require removal with solvent. Lacquer are used sometimes The pink on the other hand looks like a dye, like the type of dye penetrant used to detect cracks. Could be they use it for that purpose or to help dings and blemishes show up better to help with polishing Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. The way it’s applied in the pink case is pretty poor prep work which led me to believe it’s dye and not cerakote. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Yeah, I know what cerakote is and the pictures in the op look like it. The blue actually looks like machinists blue quite frankly. I should add I misread the op as though they meant a protective coating used while working on the watch. Like a protective film, not a final finish coat. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Maybe they are using it in a similar way that you might use machinist’s blue? So you can see what you brushed or polished and what has remained untouched? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. If it’s anything like the newer citizen monocoque cases you pry off the rotating bezel and can see the crystal is pressed into a crystal holding ring which is then pressed into the case. Pry out the crystal and ring as a unit and you will see a lever to release the stem. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. If we’re looking at the spring wound into the barrel then you’ve got the spring wound in the wrong way. Should look like this (except not dirty) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Same here. I have found if I use as much 8217 7 series as I do in a 6 series barrel I can’t get more than 3 or so turns before the spring slips. So I barely use any on these. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. More likely than not you’ll need to resort to eBay to see if you can scare up a donor for the parts you need. A quick look turns up several and completed auctions seem to suggest they are selling for as little as $50. As jdm suggested this is a fashion house who’ve stuck their name on a watch, not an actual watch company and as such there really may not be a lot of resources to find parts specific to the model short of scrounging on eBay. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. I’ve wondered about using these mov’ts with this type of barrel bridge in screw back cases. They are intended for front loading like on a pocket watch where the dial rests on a rim on the front side and the casing screw head clamps down on the rim on the back of the mid case. These are snap back cases typically, correct? On screw back wrist watch cases how easy is it to get the casing screw head into the groove machined into the casing ring or does the head just press down on top? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I second that recommendation. In every case where I’ve had a broken screw I was able to slowly work it out by coaxing it to turn with the point of a sewing needle or pin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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