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About meanoldmanning

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  1. If we’re looking at the spring wound into the barrel then you’ve got the spring wound in the wrong way. Should look like this (except not dirty) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Same here. I have found if I use as much 8217 7 series as I do in a 6 series barrel I can’t get more than 3 or so turns before the spring slips. So I barely use any on these. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. More likely than not you’ll need to resort to eBay to see if you can scare up a donor for the parts you need. A quick look turns up several and completed auctions seem to suggest they are selling for as little as $50. As jdm suggested this is a fashion house who’ve stuck their name on a watch, not an actual watch company and as such there really may not be a lot of resources to find parts specific to the model short of scrounging on eBay. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. I’ve wondered about using these mov’ts with this type of barrel bridge in screw back cases. They are intended for front loading like on a pocket watch where the dial rests on a rim on the front side and the casing screw head clamps down on the rim on the back of the mid case. These are snap back cases typically, correct? On screw back wrist watch cases how easy is it to get the casing screw head into the groove machined into the casing ring or does the head just press down on top? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I second that recommendation. In every case where I’ve had a broken screw I was able to slowly work it out by coaxing it to turn with the point of a sewing needle or pin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yes, it’s pretty much all I work on. 63xx series, 700x series, 7s, some of the smaller mov’ts from ladies watches, 754x quartz, etc. The common understanding is Seikos run at lower amp than Swiss but that’s usually misunderstood in my opinion to mean dismally low amp like in the OP’s post. Even the old 63xx mov’ts I service wind up running around 250+ otherwise I start over. Cleanliness, pivots and jewels in good condition, proper oiling. QC from the factory seems to be pretty low for sure, I’ve seen photos of brand new 7s mov’ts that are way over oiled with oil migrating from the pivots in the winding mech. That doesn’t benefit anything Here’s a 6349 I serviced recently (40 years old mov’t). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. 214 isn’t acceptable in my book. I don’t have many of them but none of the half dozen or so I’ve had have such low amplitude, at least not when anywhere near full wind. All of the NH3x and 7s26/36 I’ve had run at minimum at 270 +- a few degrees. Even the old 700x series mov’ts I’ve worked on wind up closer to the 270 range than not. And yes the OP needs to wind at the barrel screw, not by swinging the watch x number of times. Some old photos I had on hand. First is a 7s36 after being worn all day. The second is an NH36 after being worn all day. Both were in new unopened watches Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. That amplitude is pretty low. Should be nearer the 270 range minimum on a fairly new 7s. Right there suggests something ain’t right. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. I transfer some into a small glass jar with a glass pipette. Easier to work with that way and can be sealed up so it doesn’t flash off as quickly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. I haven’t messed with that specific model, but based on the old King Divers I have and various 60s Seikos, is that crystal held in place by the bezel? Pry off the bezel and the crystal actually snaps in place externally around a lip on the case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I’ve been screwing around with a few 6497s; one new 6497-1 elabore, one well used 6497-1 and a new Seagull clone. The well used example had seen water at some point and showed wear on all the pivots, especially the pallet fork where the pivots are pitted and cone shaped. I also noted a ton of end and side shake in the barrel arbor in its ports and sort of wrote it off to the wear found elsewhere, but when I checked the other two mov’ts I noticed they had significant end and side shake in the arbor too. Do all of these just have loads of tolerance right from the get-go? I’ve read ETA allows a fairly large delta in positional variation so I’m guessing that is the case? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. The Seagull clones I’ve seen all have the eccentric dial feet screws as in the photo below. I think they’re based on the 6497-1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. The 8215 does hand wind. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Renowned for low amplitude compared to Swiss mov’ts with ~300 degrees amp. Too many hobbyists seem to think anything around 200 is ok on Seikos. I personally feel it’s not acceptable to settle for amplitude below the mid 200s on the Japanese makes and apparently you feel the same. I’d go back through and check cleanliness. Peg out everything and pith all the pivots. Check oiling. If pivots are worn significantly you may have to settle for lackluster performance unfortunately as Citizen spares are hard to come by. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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