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Here is a list of the many types.

That looks like a bezel from a 3-part case.

You could buy some tapered pin and then use this.

This subject has been debated many times. The issue is if not careful the site would just become a FREE eBay/auction site. We will attract members who are only interested in selling or buying. The concept of this site is for those who wish to repair and also for general horological enthusiasts.

Pultra is top quality. It was a brand of Smart Brown who was top maker of lathes, everything the did was high end. Their venerable 1024 stood in the same class as a Monarch 10ee or Hardingle HLV for example. Scoop it up if in good shape and with all the bits and pieces. They also made a larger 10mm lathe, sort of in between a watchmakers and instrument makers. A nice addition to any shop....here's mine

very good show ! did you know? , the lathe is the only machine that can rebuild it self. vin

bjd1020, Please drop the sir, we are all on first name terms or our user names, many on here just call me OH. Happy New Year.

This is my collection of lathes, 5 with countershafts. And I use sewing machine motors although I have 5 vintage lathe motors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi all. I just applied for their 1,800 hour course which runs from Jan 2019. If I get past the application stage there will be an assessment in August which will include a 'numerical and problem solving' test. I'm not sure how to prepare for that because I'm not sure what it is exactly, so don't know how to bone-up beforehand. The other parts of the assessment are an interview and a dexterity test, they seem self explanatory. Anyway, aside from my worries... I'll keep you guys posted should it be of interest. I wonder how many applicants they get, seeing as they only let about 8 people on to the course.

Mainspring is listed as: Mainspring, 1.45 x .10 x 320 x 9 Non-Automatic So go for the closest in length to that, as that length is now obsolete. The length makes a fractional difference to the operation, so try: 1.45 x 0.10 x 300 x 9 Non-Automatic (GR3953)

It's not designed to take a mineral glass, thopugh you could experiment to see if you can fit one. You must buy it with a gasket included if you do this, and consider that the gasket adds to the overall diamater. The correct type of crystal for this is most likely an acrylic Sternkreuz N, with size 29.8mm, assuming your crystal is no larger than 29.7mm. Alternatively measure the rebate in the ring and aim for around 0.2mm larger.

In which case I'm wrong. Apologies for misinformation.

Lets us say that the guard pin does not have any function in the time keeping. But I think it is an essential part if you want to wear your watch since it has a similar function as the incablock shock springs. It's main function is as the name implies to make sure the horn isn't reaching the impulse pin and breaking it of or get jammed in any way. If you look at a pallet fork under high magnification you can see that the guard pins distance to the roller where the impulse pin is seated is slightly shorter than the pallet horns. This assures a safe operation if a shock is distributed to the watch, the smaller distance to the roller makes the guard pin hit the roller first. Side shake can't be avoided since you want your pinions to run clear in the jewels, it is this side shake the guard pin protects against. If you are making a guard pin you have to keep this in mind, the pin has to be slightly longer than the pallet horns but still have enough clearance to the roller to ensure normal function. So i guess the answer to your question is , Yes the watch will work without the guard pin, but you might only use it in a static position otherwise it will stop now and then or stop permanently.

Rodabod is right, the metal part is part of the case. There are crystals with a metal ring inside which are called armored crystals, in your case you need a regular "wedge-ledge" crystal. Pop the crystal out of the bezel and measure it.

Cousins stock all sizes, Sternkreuz https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc

I'm being sidetracked with other projects I thought I'd check in and see how you doing? Then regarding the question of backspin this is a discussion group did you do a search to see if that term ever came up before? So one of the ways to tell if you gear train is free with the pallet fork removed balance wheel removed. You start to the wind the watch and with nothing to hold the gear train in place it will start to spin once it's spinning you stop winding. The momentum of the gear train will go past where the mainspring is powering it and the momentum will wind the mainspring a little bit backwards. Once it runs out of energy that back wound mainspring will pull the gear train back. So if you look very carefully you'll see the train come to a stop and then go back just a little bit. That's usually an indication that the gear train is incredibly free and you probably won't have a problem. then minor problems with backspin it doesn't work with all watches. The link below has what I believe is your watch and looks like a spring is over the sweep second wheel? That might be enough to interfere with backspin. Then for the pictures at the link below this doesn't appear to be a super high grade watch? At the very end of the article the timing machine results look horrible to be honest. A minor note regarding timing machine results? Unfortunately we don't have cheap artificial intelligence yet so that we can build a timing machine that tells us in audio terms what's wrong with the watch. So the meeting of this is timing machines are kinda like a crystal ball, okay there actually better than a crystal ball they do work with scientific principles but interpreting the results sometimes is a little bit vague basically it just points us in a direction. Then it requires the user to use their eyes and skills to look at the physical watch which we can't do we rely on your pictures and we can only point you in a direction. so the timing machine isn't going to give all the answers for instance? for instance the watch running when it's fully wound up super tight and shortly later crashes and burns timing machine is it going to help with fact. then isn't this interesting resting on the pivots it's running fine and everywhere else you lose a lot of amplitude? So you need to look very carefully at the balance pivots and the jewels. As her seems to be an issue with their balance wheel as far as the timing machine can tell.

Looks like it has a crystal ring. The chromed ring is a part that holds the crystal to the case. What kind of watch do you have. Or brand. I know omega has that kind of Crystal ring. it's maybe easier to find a specific crystal for the brand. No need to be sorry. It's a good question. We are here to help.

Perhaps I did not explain clearly. When I said "short" I should have said "effectively short" such as the coils sticking together. This fault can be caused by grease or by the coils being magnetised and of cause the coil/s being bent out of shape.

Even though the dial is still not exactly to my taste, it has become indeed very fascinating. Now I'm on a quest to find out what happened? Are there more of these dials? If ever existed, how did the watch look like? Can I find the watch or perhaps reproduce one with the, while still available, original parts? A journey which most likely brings me in 2019 to the Vostok HQ in Russia and who knows after that? Talking about "connecting" to a watch ..... It's amazing to see & to learn on the WUS forum about Russian watches, how passionate they are and how much knowledge there is, but also how much isn't known ...... nearly every day a Russian watch "surprise" surfaces. This dial was one of them and the "story" is far from over......

Well isn't that what cleaning watches is all about, getting rid of unwanted bumps and S**T.

Me too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I thought these photos would turn a head or two. I'd like to know what's in the Leica box!