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So I have a question and a suggestion. The question is on discussions like this where left with what was the problem? So whatever the watch comes back from wherever it goes see if you can find out what was done to it. Then a suggestion Mark has a beginner's training course perhaps you should think about it. Also on the group others like you have asked where to begin so while YouTube is fine I think we're better. https://www.watchrepairlessons.com/

New one to the fold Needs new crystal and while it's out I'll refinish the bezel and paint the numbers black.

I would say that is the issue the pinion needs to be supported when fitting the centre seconds hand much the same as some chronographs (thinking of the ETA 7750) that really need a dedicated movement holder to support the centre pinion.

Had a lot of hassle removing a clock mainspring barrel lid. This is why. Some never service the mainspring until muggins here does a proper service.

It is likely that the second hand shaft is pushing down so the hand is not fully going onto it. The second hand pinion is held in mesh by a flat spring which sits on the other end of the shaft. This needs to be supported when fitting the second hand so that it allows the hand to be fitted without moving down. This spring can be seen when the rotor bridge is removed, see near the centre of the pic attached.

The conclusion for this is that the watch will be going elsewhere to be looked after by more experienced hands. Thanks to all for taking the time to offer advice. The conclusion is, I won't be doing any "fiddling" until I've gained some experience so I'll be starting with non-runners to get a better understanding rather than relying on you tube videos. cheers

I see these on ebay all the time, looks like they would be for larger movements due to the curve of the jaws...not very stable looking imo...

Glad you took the plunge, and hope you enjoy digging in. Have fun!

Welcome!

I've attached the service notes with lubrication and a separate color lubrication guide. Seiko-Oil-5106A.PDF Seiko-5106A.PDF

Welcome to this friendly forum.

Sorry I don't know.

It might not be the prettiest casing pad I've seen, but the density of the foam seems pretty nice for casing up movements. And heck, you can cut yourself out a bunch of different sizes if you'd like. I was about to throw out a scrap that was left from my last re-purposing of the anti-fatigue foam mats that I purchased at my local Chinese tool factory outlet known as Harbor Freight. Before I threw them out I gave re-purposing another thought and flashed on a case-cushion. I just traced a tin top onto it and cut it out. Again, it might not be presentable in a customer-impression setting, but it's OK on my bench, in my room. Similar mats are available elsewhere, but probably for a bit more money. Anyway, for under $10, you get at least 12 square feet of the interlocking pads. It's probably 3/8" thick. Of course it's best to cut them out before the pad has been moved around on the floor a few times. The foam is of a very nice density for many applications, IMHO. I have now used them for a rope-skipping platform, an anti-vibration pad under desk monitor-speakers, and a casing-cushion. I just thought I'd throw my not-throwing-it-out out there. Cheers.

You can use a K&D staff remover, do the same job for a fraction of the price

That base actually holds the crystal in place and the metal sides space the compressor up slightly to leave enough plastic at the bottom of the crystal to insert into a case. Am I correct?