syfre

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syfre last won the day on February 12

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About syfre

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  1. If your glass is a little larger than the bezel (says something like a few 1/100 mm) you can try a ... kitchen pan ..... heat the bezel and with the metal extension the glass will fit. There is a vintage tool to do that, look here : http://www.daveswatchparts.com/pwcrystals.html
  2. Yes i totally agree with you, i just wanted to point that a vanguard is twice the value of a 845. Anyway i am an amateur, it's for the fun and not for the profit.
  3. According to pwdb it's about $530 vs $285; so yes the it's far much valuable
  4. Both are open face and i don't have a correct case, from the point of view of value the Vanguard is much more valuable and i could invest in a case. The 21 is a 845 grade. Just found that the 21 has also the fourth wheel arbor broken, one more problem to fix.
  5. Hi everyone, I have a Waltham 1892 23 jewels grade Vanguard i bought some years ago (not my best deal !) which have an impressive list of defaults : Ratchet wheel and crown wheel has been ruined (i believe the guy thought it was a good idea to remove rust spots with a file) Not sure the click is complete Missing center wheel lower jewel Pallet arbor looks not original and is broken Missing lower pallet chaton and screws Third wheel upper jewel broken Fourth wheel upper jewel broken Pallet upper jewel broken balance lower cap jewel broken balance lower jewel broken balance upper cap jewel missing balance upper cap jewel broken The case is a piece of junk The good parts : The balance is ok except the jewels The dial and hands are ok The wheels look ok The setting parts look ok On the other hand i have a W 1892 21 jewels which look ok except : The balance has been fully taken apart, looks like the guy start replacing the staff but didn't finish the job. The staff is OK. The upper balance jewel and cap jewel and screws are missing No dial and hands So, my first idea was to used the 21 to restore the 23 but after checking all of the problems i am not very confident, my big concerns are the missing center jewel, the missing chaton and all of the jewel jobs. I am afraid that this end by ruining the 21 without successfully restore the 23. The second option is to restore the 21 using the 23 which can be done by fixing the missing upper cap jewel, replacing the broken upper jewel and reusing the dial and hands of the 23. Third option is to put back all that stuff in my bench drawer and forgot about it .
  6. Hello guys, Full plate pocket watches use a right angle escapement and may be really tricky to adjust because of the full plate design. Some adjustments may be done by the pallet assembly which is composed of two parts, the top plate which has the fork and the guard pin and the bottom which hold the stones. The two are screwed and the screws enable some adjustment in both horizontal and vertical : With the horizontal you can adjust the position of the guard pin (never bend it) and of the fork. With the vertical you can adjust the position of the stones and the locks of the escapement : So, if you have to made some adjustments at the pallet, don't forget to check the position of the guard pin and the locks before reassembling.
  7. Train Wheel Polishing/Shining

    I use Elma 1:9 solution and its remove oxidation, the brass comes out nice and shinny. The pb is that brass oxide very quickly.
  8. Platax tool on Ebay

    You can use a K&D staff remover, do the same job for a fraction of the price
  9. Broken pallet arbor pivot ? You have two options : repivoting or turn a new arbor. I don't have the stuff and the skill to turn between centers, so i tried repivoting : 1. True the broken face 2. Mark the center (use a x20 eyeglass ) 3. Drill (0.3mm) with a carbide drill on the lathe , depth around 2 to 3 times the diameter of the drill 4. Turn the plug, make some test and try until you find the right diameter (you must be 1/100 larger than the hole). Add a notch at approximately the dimension of the pivot plus the depth of the hole 5. Set the plug at low speed until the notch break (don't forget to add some Loctite 603) 6. Secure the plug with a light hammer 7. Finish the pivot (0.18mm) Drilling on the lathe, i use a ER11 collet holder in the tailstock from GG tools, go very very slowly. Finished pallet, unfortunately i broke a stone in the process and had to replace it, i believe it's a shock with the tool rest when finishing the pivot , so be very careful !
  10. They are made from old carbide drills. These drills come from a uk seller which said they come from "aviation" factories. Don't know. They cut very well and break also very well. The one on the left is the first i made. It's very ugly for a cutter but it cut steel like butter. The second is a cutting tool and have better finish. it required much grinding and was really a pain to make. To made cutter from carbide drill i use a proxxon bench grinder (SP/E 28030) and finish it with a medium diamond wheel (from eternal tools supplier).
  11. Hi guys, I need a 0.7mm screw (head 1.2mm) and the corresponding tap so i give a try to the india mini taps and screw plate that you can find on the bay. The set comes with a 0.7 mm tap and that the one i wanted. First, i measured the tap and the 0.7mm give 0.66mm and the 0.8mm give 0.78 on my Mitutoyo (not chinese) caliper. I made a test on a brass piece, drill at 0.6 for the 0.7mm tap and at 0.7 for the 0.8 mm. I was able to tap both with out problem. I believe a 0.5mm drill would had been better for the 0.66 tap but drilling at 0.5mm on a bench drill (a proxxon) is tricky. (I gave a try to the chinese carbide drills you can found on the bay for a couple of dollars. It was a good surprise as they cut really good and don't break on the first time. The set i tried come from THK) Now the screw. I turn a blue steel rod at 0.8 and try the 0.8 hole of the india screw plate. It was a total failure, the screw plate didn't cut. As it was my first try at making screw i though i was doing something wrong. May be the steel is too hard ? I decided to try my antique "Martin et fils" screw plate. It is a L model (L means "Latar" thread serie) and i found online the corresponding measurement : the hole 12 must be 0.798mm 0.164mm pitch which is the closer of the 0.78mm india tap (but as the india tap pitch is unknown so there was little chance they match). The "Martin and fils" cut my steel rod like butter. I tried the thread (0.78mm) on the tapped hole and it matched. (These old screw plates are not consistent, you have to made a test thread and measure it to know the exact values) I then made a screw using the "Martin et fils" and test it on my test hole : it matched but it was not as tied as you can expect. [When making a screw the most difficult step is to make the slot. I believe the right way is to use a mill attachment on the lathe and a rotary cutter to cut the slot but without that making the slot "by hand" with a saw is really difficult. After many tries i finally succeed using these steps : first anneal the screw, it's absolutely required, the steel must be softer that your saw. Second, start the slot using a scalpel with a hard blade. Third, cut the slot with the saw. It's a good idea to made the screw head higher than the final dimension so that you can restart if you mess.] Not satisfied by the result i decided i needed a tap which exactly match the "Martin et fils". In "The modern watchmakers Lathe and how to use it" Archien B Perkins describes how to made a tap from a screw plate. The process is simpler that you can thought. The final tap is a little short because the first one i made break during the thread cutting. I made the second shorten to avoid a new brake. Using the home made tap the screw fits perfectly. [To made the tap : use an old drill, anneal it, turn it to dimension (0.8mm for my number 12 hole), cut the tread, file the thread three times at 120° using the lathe indexing plate to form the tap and sharpen using an india and arkansas stones, harden then temper ] I made several tests with the india screw plate and never succeed. The taps are not bad but without the corresponding screw plate there are of little interest. Finally, as you may expect; the antique Swiss screw plate is the great winner.
  12. Yes, the alligator clip has been modified , it works much better than i thought, but i tried pocket watch hairspring only. Also i used an old croco clip which was originally shaped differently than the chinese ones you can find on the bay.
  13. Hello guys, An attempt to make a low cost hairspring vibrating tool : Prove of concept : The hairspring (here it's a 18s balance) is clamp in a crocodile clip which has been grinded to be as fine as possible, a laser beam is set so that the beam is cut by the balance arm. The photo diode (from an old pc mouse ) is en-capsuled in a little housing to avoid parasite light (from what i thing to be an old TO3 transistor spacer found in my spare screws box). The IC is just a simple op amp acting as a comparator, the led on the output is used to visualize the that the laser beam is on the detector. First measure on scope : Doing some simple math show that an error of 0.1 ms on the measured value (which is 400 ms for 18000 bph) correspond to an error of 21.5 seconds / day. At that time base setting my scope has a resolution of 4 ms ! I switched to an Arduino based measuring system : I used an existing Arduino module based on a cheap stm32 and add a led (indispensable to adjust the beam) and the power output for the laser. The comparator is no more required as the stm32 has schmitt trigger inputs. The soft is triggered by the touch screen and accumulate a couple of measures in a circular buffer to compute an average value. This permits to eliminate aberrant measures that you can have when the balance starts to swing. Detail of the crocodile clip : In conclusion this is little tool (cost me only the plexyglass sheet, around $1.5) could be useful to match a new hairspring on an existing balance. The measures are relatively simple to do with a good consistency and surprisingly the croco clip do the job and you can get the balance swing for tens of second on the plexy. You need a resolution of 0.05 ms to be at 10 s/d and probably calibrate your measuring device. The main difficulty was to adjust the position of the laser beam. Hope this can give you some ideas. Regards
  14. Pivot Size V's Jewel Size

    look at this post : there is a pivot gauge with the Jacot ; an other option is a good micrometer (a mitutoyo for example) with 1/1000 resolution
  15. Pivot Size V's Jewel Size

    pivot size are measured in 1/100 of mm ; example a pivot of 18 means 0.18 mm ; you need a jewel hole just larger than the pivot ; example for a 0.18 pivot you need a 0.20 jewel hole Also : to measure a pivot you need a pivot gauge or a (good) micrometer; you need measurement at 1/100 of mm. Have a look here : http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/ht/September2011.pdf