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I haven't posted in a bit so: The LCD wristwatch was a new thing. When was that? '79, '80, not really certain. I purchased my first one, a Seiko in '81. Lifetime ago... I was pulling night watch on the fall back from daylight saving time to standard. Remember the rules said to set it back at 0200. It was 0300 when I heard a shout from the desk sergeant who proclaimed his watch had died. I look at it and saw the 00:00 on the display. It seems he did not know how to set the watch so at 0200 took the back off and removed the cell for an hour then put it back in thinking the timepiece would stop for an hour and then display the correct time. Armitron as I recall. I bailed him out, of course.

Perhaps you could remove the pallet (and put the balance complete back) and see if the balance behaves as expected with a smooth motion that gently drops of as it looses energy ? You could use an air blower to just "puff" some air on the mounted balance to get it to move and that should be sufficient. That should show you if the problem lies with the balance or the pallet (or elsewhere).

I got it looking real good now was just surface rust. Will start the rebuild in the AM, I also replaced the mainspring since I have 3 in stock just for GP.

I'm so glad this topic popped back up. I'm new here and hadn't seen it. Blue is probably my favorite dial color, in contention with champagne. Even so, looking through my collection I appear to only have 4 watches with blue dials. Then again, my collection seems like it's probably puny compared to some of you here. In order of acquisition: Seiko SNKK45 ("Seikonaut"): Seiko SNZH53: Grand Seiko SBGA375 (it's hard to coax the blue out of this one - it looks black most of the time - had to get in bright sunlight for this picture): Bulova Precisionist 96B257:

I'll start. But first, the backstory: what I didn't know beforehand was that one of my daughters "borrowed" my *brass* tweezers to apply some stickers, and put them back before I knew about it. I found that out later. So there I am, bit of sinus trouble making me groggy, working on a practice movement to take my mind off it. I'm unscrewing the balance bridge, and I go to grab the screw with the tweezers and put it in my tray. I hold it over the tray and let go, but it stays on the tweezer tip. I think "That's not good". So I put the screw and the tweezers on my demagnetizer and hit the switch. I lift the screw and drop it in the tray. And as I watch myself lifting *brass* tweezers off a demagnetizer, I realize how tired I am and go to bed (resolving to figure out why the screw stuck sometime later). Anyone else have a funny watch repair-related story to tell?

Even bent pivot dont so abruptly and forcefully stop the balance wheel. I put my two cents on balance wheel hitting something.

Hi Thats a bit of a pest, The places to look for a new spring are Esslingers and Jules Borel and timesavers all I am sure will be able to put you on the right track.

Hi What I did notice in the video of the balance moved by puffing air was that the balance comes to rest abruptly in the same spot, Note the position of the balance arms when coming to rest it does not come to rest smoothly as the power diminishes, So from that I suspect the balance has a problem as suggested bent/ worn pivots being most likley. Other than substituting the balance its hard to prove.

Hi Other than the documents on either esslingers or cousins the Omega tech sheets are hard to come by. With the SWATCH influence they are only available to Omega dealer/service centers.

Since the oscilator doesn't want to swing freely both in face down FD and FU positions, we need to blame both jewels inner surfaces, kinda unusual. So I rule that out for now.

That’s the same series as the 601 which is basically a non-auto version of the 565. So look that up. The original manual will recommend “Syntalube” which is 9010. So, 9010 on the fast pivots, D5 or HP on the slow bits. Grease on the other bits. 914(5) on the pallet stones or 9010.

Ignore this, the yoke wasn't seated correctly

This is a non-inca 30T2. Before you start looking at the safety action in more detail, are you absolutely sure that that balance end-shake is ok? A broken or very worn pivot can cause these sorts of symptoms as it puts the roller out of alignment with the lever. Does it act the same with the movement flipped over so that it is dial-up?

Of course, the tools can wind any type of mainspring as long you have the right bareel and arbor. Once the spring is wound to the right point gently drive the bridle into the slot with your hand.

I gave a used quartz watch to our houseman, couple of days and he comes complaining he doesn't want it for it looses time dispite him winding it everyday.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Gluing hairsprings is not a new practice. The Elgin watch company pioneered this it was done to avoid stressing the hairspring. Traditionally a pin is used and that can distort. Modern methods Use various forms of laser welding or other welding. Unfortunately the Chinese were not as thoughtful as Elgin and their glue has a habit of disintegrating if you attempt to clean the watch more than a couple of times. Epoxy should work fine probably best if you could do it in the watch because the stud will be in perfect alignment with the hairspring. Unfortunately there's not a lot of room to work.

Welcome to the forum.

Science is demonstrated by experiments, so nothing is wrong repeating these sometime. The other day I found that my brass tweezers reject small screws, even after being demagnetized (the tweezers). I only went far enough to learn that brass is not actually totally amagnetic, did not try to demag the screws and just moved on.

Chinese maker do not make technical documents available. That is not much of a problem, because replacement parts (except for the stem) are not available anyway, and with enough experience one can figure out and do some work on them anyway. That is just normal for a beginner, you need to work in the proper position with the correct lighting, use he proper tools, and away from carpeting. And one needs to practice first on some junk and scrap movements to develop dexterity so to lessen stress and risk when it comes to something you do care about. But you can take one as soon the plate is lifted, and study and reason to learn what is the name, function, and positioning of each part. Which is the same in pretty much any watch. Replacement generally means having same or very near dimensions and hands size. ETA 2824 and Miyota 8215 are like that, as well very many Chinese movements of various denominations.

And, two years later, I used the tack. It works!

One of the great things about collecting and repairing is that feeling of taking a bunch of parts and making a working watch again. This restore begins with a scrap pile of cases from a former Timex repair center. I chose a late 1960's Marlin case that is missing the stem tube. So to the parts stash and one issue resolved. Off it than goes to get a bath in cleaning solution , polished, new crystal added along with correct case back. Next I service a used #24 movement also from the same lot the cases came with and the assembly begins. Since the hands are chromed, I just use an old eraser pencil to bring back their shine. The sweep comes from NOS stock. Grease the stem tube, set lever, insert a NOS stem\crown, snap on the case back and there ya go. Will give this one a wear to test its time keeping.

I bought some LocTite epoxy and it was very annoying since using glue so close to the hairspring sure is scary but it seems I was succeeded. I used the smallest size of a used oiler to apply the glue.

I have a soft spot in my heart for almost all things Omega! Gorgeous watch!

Where do I start? In no particular order, here are a 'few'........ There are more........