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Thank you all VERY much for the detailed answers. I've looked at the EB8800 and it looks good for what I'm looking for. On the other hand, the whole "dive in and break stuff" mentality is just fine if the movement is inexpensive. I just know it's time to get off pocketwatches. I'll have a look at the Seiko 6309. I'm grateful to have a forum that is so helpful. Thanks a bunch, all!

All working perfect now. Everything was good all the time. After I test the motion work with power on the mainspring everything behave as expected and all working perfect! Really happy to accomplish my first amateur Rolex service!! Bit error is at zero but amplitude is a bit low at 275'. I think amplitude might not be great because I'm not really good at lub the jewels on the pallet fork and made a bit of a mess with the Moebius 9415. Thanks again for all the fantastic support.

Hi Adam See how you get on I have a DIY dial soldering unit that does the job so if you need feet fitting send me a PM cheers

Yes that is very common with Swiss mov.ts, a thin brass washer goes between the hours wheel and dial, otherwise the day disc takes its place.

Another 1972 Viscount. I particularly like the hands on this. Shame the crown and stem is missing, but I guess if it wasn't then the thing would have gone for a lot more.

Much better after running for 10h! [emoji846][emoji846] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

The only time i need a needle file is when the pivot hole is extremely worn. Say one side of the pivot hole is elongated away from its original center. I use the round needle file to open up the pivot hole on the unworn side opposite to the elongation. Thus when i go to center the bushing machine its a bit easier to ream out. Usually the pivot hole wont need the filing. This is extreme instances where the hole is so whacked that attempting to ream may shift the plate or break the reamer.

Disclaimer: I'm a deep end guy. I learn to swim on the kitchen floor (read like crazy until I feel comfortable), then just jump in. Date complications are tiddlywinks. Nothing to be remotely concerned with. The only thing you might hold off on is something you care about breaking. A chronograph is complicated, but if you're careful and pay close attention, it's not at all impossible. The approach I backed into mostly because shipping hasn't been all that timely during the pandemic is to fiddle around with what's to hand. I had a collection of crappy old watches that I accumulated years ago; cheap junk, because it's what I could afford in college. Mostly eBay type stuff I thought looked OK at the time, or things that came in lots with other things I actually wanted... That sort of stuff. Nicest and most complicated watch I've messed with out of that lot is a 7S26B Seiko 5 that was broken in a car wreck. Turned out not to be so broken, so I'm actually trying to make it run. Automatic, day, date, center seconds... The only thing that's given me headache is the mainspring barrel was a pain to split and I ended up warping it a bit (I had a spare badly running 7S26C, so lesson learned, part salvaged, moving on), and I roached the hair spring up good. I managed to screw the second hair spring up a bit as well, but I'm not calling it dead yet. The only things that gave me any issue at all are in no way specific or even related to automatic or day/date functionality. @AndyHull has been playing a game he calls the "404 Club" (I think it refers specifically to a group of watches in his collection, but I'd almost go so far as to advocate it become A Thing™). @FLwatchguy73 and I have been dabbling a bit with the challenge as well. The premise is finding watches for £4.04 (currently $5.08/€4.52) and having fun (it's a hobby after all!). So far, I've managed to score a handful (ten or so) of French and Swiss watches, all fully jeweled (17+)... Well... Mostly... Still waiting on shipping. If I screw any of them up beyond any usability or parts salvageability, I'll be out an absolute max of $15 including shipping. Cheap experience. That experience moves quickly. The first "modern" watch I dis/reassembled was a Tongji, and I had a **BLEEP** of a time manipulating the shock springs. Last night, I popped the shock springs on and off the Seiko a handful of times with no issues, and first attempt each time. Elapsed working time between the two couldn't have been more than 5 hours (though it's taken me weeks trying to find time with a newborn, two tech professionals working on what has literally become the bandwidth equivalent of an unreliable dial up internet connection, and a pandemic). Jump in. Break shit. Learn. Move on.

Nothing was wrong with the canon pinion. Just when I tried it first time there was no power at all in the mainspring and the motion works was putting some visible pressure on the train wheels and pallets. That's when I got scarred and stopped. Ipl learned earlier on my hobby to stop when things don't head up, ask who knows and look at it again in the morning after a good night sleep [emoji6][emoji846]. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Rolex doesn't like amplitude much higher than that, 275 is perfectly fine.

What is that you like? Get that or similar if too expensive, maybe just not a chrono yet. A complete watch that you can then wear would be ideal IMO, you did good with Mark's and now deserve a reward..

Yes, I'm not convinced that cap jewel looks fixed. It looks sprung to me - early antishock possibly.

out of curiosity do you have a timing machine? In other words how do you know that you are amplitude is fine and the power reserve is fine?. Because unfortunately if the breaking grease doesn't break when the mainspring slips it slips too much. Minor catch to automatic watches you would probably never notice it on your wrist because you're just going to make up the power loses. the only concerned with any of the 8000 series lubrication's is they have natural oils which have a tendency of going bad with time. But they also have mineral oil which shouldn't go bad with time.

You could use JDweld to glue some dialfeet on. I guess Cousins has these, I bought mine at Boley.

Whe you test it, do not force it if it feels very tight as you risk damaging the wheel train and also the keyless works. I sometimes find snapped off teeth where people have been winding aggressively on watches which previously needed cleaning. Personally, I would not recommend making any changes to the profile of the canon pinion until you are certain of what the issue is.

It's a valid fear. Watchweasol has the plans for a machine, maybe he will post the details. You can try a dial washer too.

I know this might annoy people, but I have serviced 200+ automatic seikos and have used 8200 on the barrel walls. There have been no problems with power reserve or amplitude. I have a 40 watch collection that I have serviced as well in the same manner. I have applied 8200 to Rolex's and Omega's. My 1040 Seamaster is running on my wrist right now. Yes correct braking grease is ideal, but to say that "whatever you do" is a bit harsh. It all depends on budget and availability. I started off servicing with just Moebius 8000 for all pivots and some of the watches are still running perfect - albeit quite oily after 5 years. It is a matter of desired performance. Also regarding re-using barrels and springs - if they are in decent condition, why not? I had the first unusable barrel come on my bench and that was from a 7017 that came from Japan that was rusty and horrible. I swapped in a good condition 7002 barrel and bob's your uncle, it's running with beautiful amplitude and reserve. Out of curiosity I will buy some braking grease and give it a go.

Sounds like ratchet wheel intermediate wheel pushes on the ratchet wheel, check that it's arbour falls into jewel hole. Keep turning the rotor clock&anticlock while you are tightening the two screws to the auto bridge. Good luck

Picked up this Timex Electric and Cimier off the Bay. Both look like the will clean up well but working condition is unknown. Also picked up this Gotham to play with

Timex Big Q two hander with pusher crown. I have a similar watch already, but this one has the relevant metal clip for the pusher, so I can copy its construction for my other version. Hopefully I will end up with two good watches. Time will tell.

Don't be too worried if some of the pushers or reamers are missing or damaged you can buy them from Cousins for a reasonable price. I've looked at buying one of these sets many times on ebay, the price is about what they go for, but too expensive for me as in Australia I also have to pay 10% GST on the final sale price and 10% GST on the postage too which just pushes it out of my price range.

I agree! Already ordered this little honey. Same seller had a Crystal, a crown, and a set of hands, negotiated a package deal, they're on their way

I just grabbed this vintage Citizen Bullhead with the panda dial. It's powered by the venerable Citizen, 23 Jewel, 8110A. It looks to be quite a disaster, but since I'm itching for a challenge and I've always wanted a Bullhead, this will be my chance. Initial shopping list of parts includes: New crystal as I'm quite certain faceted crystals were never available from the factory New replacement or vintage dial in good shape as this one is a wreck. complete set of hands stem possibly a new balance as the hairspring looks to be wound tight, hopefully that is just a lack of perspective proper bracelet as this one is sans anything As always, I will post updates and photos as I go through it. It seems Mark has yet to cover one of these on YouTube. Would love to see him go through one himself. If anyone here has gone through one of these or has any spares available, please let me know, I may need guidance. Hopefully I can manage it without one of those Bergeon 3rd wheel pullers as it costs nearly as much as this did. Addendum: for those Quentin Tarantino fans, I just learned Brad Pitt's character, "Cliff Booth" in "Once Upon A Time in Hollywood" wore a gold tone one of these on a leather cuff band.

Just picked up my first Seiko Speedy. The reference is 6139-7100, affectionately known as the helmet. I've also seen the white dial version referred to as the Stormtrooper and the black dial version the Darth Vader. The inner bezel and the case back are not original, hopefully that's all that's wrong. I plan to go through this per Mark's video on the same movement. Gain experience and get it nicely tuned. I have had my eye on one almost since I began repairing and collecting watches. Very excited for this watch and very pleased with the purchase price.

Looking fairly clean, but missing its crown (and stem?) Allegedly working, and a couple of quid over budget, this HMT 6501 "Kanchan" should be on its way to me. This licensed Citizen 6501 movement based automatic is one of the models still available from the offical HMT store online, for around £86.90 (र 8325.00 INR) should you feel the need to add one to your collection. There is also a "skeleton" Superior version available from time to time (actually it only has an exhibition case back, so is not a true skeleton movement so far as I can see). In my opinion HMT are better value than a lot of the Chinese micro brands, and likely to be more robust (missing crowns not withstanding of course). Given a choice between a "Winner" and an HMT, I'll take the HMT any day of the week. HMT seem to have a little bit of a cult following these days and I have noticed they are generally becoming more expensive. Even the franken "Mumbai Specials" seem to be getting more pricey recently.

It really is an Incredible watch, the detail is unbelievable for the price point... Looks killer on a tan strap too!

IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Cousteau Divers” REF 3783 G.B.

Got this one on the way.......(ESA9158)