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Orologi67

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  1. Ok. The long story. The setting bridge tension arm/spring with two notches that interacts with the setting lever. The setting lever's pin is supposed to pass the bottom hump for the 2nd pull out of the stem which sets the time (see above pics). Even after cleaning and oil the setting lever pin just would not pass that second larger hump which is so much larger than the first that it in fact looks like a stop. i ordered, as i said, a 20 buck junker, thinking i had a wrong part on mine. On the junker the the setting bridge's setting lever spring was snapped off. My suspiscions were founded. So i took off the bridge on this bulova and got a fine grade vallorbe file and slightly rounded off the bottom hump. Then i polished that curve with sandpaper. Then i washed it. Reinstalled it. Lubed it. Put the stem back in and Voilá! It finally pulled out twice and now the hands can be set. Im a clockrepairman learning to repair watches. Rule #1 in clock repair is never take away metal from a piece. But this really is an issue of that hump being designed ever so slightly too large. Im sure customers were snapping stems and breaking setting springs trying to set the hands on this bulova series. And i do apologize if my terminology is not to watchmaker specs. Cheers
  2. Yes thanks to all the answers. I do have a watch cleaning machine. I did wash it and i lubed too and its working fine. I also made sure it rotated after lubing.
  3. I would assume so. It operates off the keyless works
  4. BTW the arbor is attached to the brass wheel and pinion
  5. ive got this nice little swiss movement made for another bulova im working on. Actually both bulovas im working have this cam. When i looked up online to find a spec sheet with mainspring dimensions i stumbled apon a page of a guy who disassebled the watch for cleaning. During the cleaning he removed the cam, once clean he lubed the arbor before reassembly. Id like suggestions as to what type of punch base attachment or jig would be successful?? Its gonna have to be tapped off somehow. Or do i simply clean the part as is and lube tge base and top with pin oilers??
  6. Well i removed the balance cock and there isnt a number on the cock on the plate beneath or on the front side of the plate
  7. Thank you watchweasol. Where did you find that spec sheet? Wow great information and it specifys where all the screws are designed to go. Lovely! And yes it appears to be an ETA 2770 mainspring barrel specs are the same 11mm inside diameter with a 2mm diameter mainspring arbor. Here is a pic.
  8. I bought a really fun Cyma Synchron watch and had it shipped from Israel. The gold plated case is pretty large and thick to be an early 1970s watch. It needed a new mainspring which the best i could find was from Cousins. Im on the southwest side of the USA. Did anyone know Cousins makes one do a bank wire transfer if the international order is over 1000 pounds?? Anyway.... so i decided to put the watch back together as a trial run after i washed it. So i could free up the dust cover tray and not lose parts. No lube. No mainspring. Just so i could assess faults and get a feel for the way it goes together, as well. I believe this Cyma watch has an ETA 2770 movement but i cannot confirm positively. Its some type of early 70's ETA. So everything was just falling into place on reassembly but i got very frustrated with the screw lengths. I'd say 99% of the screws in this watch are the same thread and same OD with countersunk head profiles, however they are 2 different lengths, and a few have polished heads but most dont. It seems to me that simplicity is an art in and of itself. Why didnt the technical designers make all the screws of the main size the same length to save time and frustration? I thought surely the longer screws were for the bridges but they arent. Those screws are too long because the length interferes with the date wheel on the dial side. So heres the really wacky part. I found a cap jewel apon disassembly that was laying in the movement. Its not one of the balance jewels, both are present in their respective incablocs So a previous workman left one in the movement by accident. I have this vision of a cap jewel pinging off a workperson's tweezers and he/she looked and looked. Probably had to order a new one if they didnt have it in house. And all this time it pinged over to this Cyma and was hidden in the case for years. These little parts have a life of their own.
  9. if you will see from the picture the set bridge has a hole at the 6.30 position. Thats the cam that should fall diagonally left to interact with the slip fit pinion under that pivot hole you can see just slightly below the hole in the bridge. The series of cams under the bridge is called the rocking bar. There is a prong coming off this that interacts with the setting lever. If i place that prong under the bottom pin on the lever the STEM will not move from winding mode (fully imbedded) which as i see it thats the way its supposed to be positioned. If i place that prong above the pin the STEM will pull out one time. This sets day and date. So im back to square one until the junker arrives such that i can analyze and hopefully steal a part. Thanks for your help. In the future i will refer to it as a STEM and always give the calibre
  10. Yes gentlemen i know its the keyless work that is causing the issue. Its a 1974 11BSACB. There seems to be a replaced part from another movement. Its the setting lever or the set bridge. Im unsure. I ordered the same calibre junker to see if i can find out whats the difference between the two might be. I investigated mine for quite a while today. Set bridge has another bridge attached on the bottom with a series of gears. This should contact a wheel (2nd wheel) that has a slip fit pinion on it. This pinion moves the hands. Its a rather ingenious design but the STEM doesnt want to pull out to a third notch. As far as i can tell its got an incorrect part. Like i said above.
  11. anybody have any experience with a bulova set o matic setting mechanism? I bought one and the movement is in excellent shape, however, the final pullout of the staff isnt there and i cannot adjust the hands. Replaced staff? Synched incorrectly? I found a diagram of assembly online but wanted input from here. Thanks. Cheers Steve
  12. If you have the same Winterhalter clock i have in my shop for sale that i overhauled it is thus Its a two train clock movement. The strike train is rack strike. But it strikes every 15 minutes. I believe its called a petite sonnerie. BUT ITS A BIM BAM. At 15, it strikes one bim bam At 30, bim bam, bim bam At 45, 3 bim bams Then on the hour one hammer hits one coil to simply count the hours
  13. So you took the movement apart and reassembled it? There are two main ways a chime side mechanism stops. From your picture of the front plate i believe you have the below description. One is by a pin on the 3rd wheel. This pin will come in contact with a prong projecting from a lever (either outside or inside the movement) that also runs along the edge of the chime cam or chime countwheel. When the lever comes to an indentation in the countwheel it will lower just enuf such that the thrid wheel pin will hit the lever and stop the chime. The chime fourth wheel also has a pin. This is the warning pin. When reassembling a westminster i usually set both chime and strike warning pins 90 degrees away from their warning levers. The beauty of most chime side trains is one doesnt have to worry too much about synching the chime train during reassembly becuse you can adjust it when attaching the chime count wheel. It will come to you in an epiphany. Just keep analyzing it by slowly turning the hands to activate the chime. Watching how the pins interact with the stop levers. Keep a light touch on the fly so the gears move slowly and watch. Strike side synching requires that the strike stop almost immediately after the strike hammer arbor's prong falls off the strike wheel. And the warning pin is set in a range between 90 to 180 degrees away from the warning lever. If i get in a clock (or watch) that ive never encountered i take a bunch of cell phone pics. With clocks i will also investigate the way the gears interact with levers etc before i disassemble. And also its best to try to reassemble quickly as possible such tbat you dont forget the various quirks. Cheers
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