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I thought I'd start the ball rolling. Merry Christmas & New Year to all on this wonderful friendly forum. A special thank you to Mark for creating this great friendly place

Happy Holidays to all of you!

Merry Christmas and a happy healthy new year to one and all.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from Australia to all on the forum. It is great to know that support is nearby when I get stuck or mess things up. Cheers

Merry Christmas to everyone on the forum.

Merry Christmas everybody.

Merry Christmas to you all .

Hi, HAPPY CHIRISTMAS! :) (sorry for my English, I am not a native speaker...) My SEIKO SNK809 ( 7S26c movement) shows a (at least to me) strange behaviour: If used normally (at my whrist) it looses more than a minute/day. When roating the clock by hand around the axis of the hands to wind it up it looses about 10-15 sec./day When I held the the clock vertically and move it in that position in horizontal direction back and forth there seems something loose inside (the oscillating weight?????) Is it normal that there seems something loose inside the clock? What can be the reason for the clock for not being fully wind up if used regulary? IF the oscillation wheight is loose: Is it possible to fix it myself? How can I determine how much I need to teighten what screw? Thanks a lot for any help in advance! Cheers! mcc

It is not practically feasible or convenient to replace only the bearing on these Seiko mov't. It is not even available as spare part. The auto winding mov't must be checked on various points beside just the central weight being loose, which is kind of unlikely because if so it would have come completely off with time. Bearing condition, that is how much free swinging there is. Something like the video below. Shape of the magic lever tips, if worn it must be replaced - which requires disassembly main bridge. Condition of the knurled wheel where said tips bite. It supposed to be lubricated but that is most often neglected by both factory and "watch repairers" Orientation of the weight when reinstalled, to get max efficiency. In theory that should be reversed when watch is worn on right arm. What I suggest to the OP is that he only gets the watch correctly regulated on the timegrapher by an budget watch shop. Anything else is likely to exceed the cost of a new same watch, which is about USD 60.

In the spirit of intercultural harmony, I wish all of you a wonderful non-denominational winter solstice festival :-) Or, simply, Merry Christmas! And may all of the stockings that are hung with care make ticking sounds come morning. Take care, David

More info here -> https://17jewels.info/movements/a/ahs/ahs-152/ ... including this good clear picture of the movement and balance. Note: This image is a slight optical illusion, the balance is under the balance cock, despite looking as if it runs over the top. There appears to have been both a pin and a palette lever version, and it does indeed have a center second wheel (held on that top bridge).

Charlie, For the quantity of oil, see here as per balance cap jewels. http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf This also describes other ways of oiling capped jewel holes, but I find method 1 the simplest.

Hi Chek the bezel just in case its a front loader, If not the inner workings ase usually held in by screws or removable clips screwed to the plate. A close up of the movement would help.

Think it's a AHS 152 or same series. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&AHS_152 Shock protection is called Rufarex. Andyhull is right as it's a German movement .

All down to experience, around 30 years. I have handled and repaired/restored some wonderful pieces in my days. Wishing you a Happy Christmas & New Year

if you use penitrating oil on the back seam, you might not need to go to all this trouble. vin