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mcc

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  1. Hi Yankeedog, thank you for your help! :) The SEIKO SNK809 has been discontinued already. As said: I like to preserve things and repair them if it needs to. Assuming, cost will not matter (which does of course...but just for this moment it will not) I will come back to my initial question: What is -- technically wise -- a reasonable period of time to let a watchmaker check the heart of this little gem? Servicing too late is always much more expensive than doing it just in time. Cheers mcc
  2. Hi John, thank you VERY MUCH for your explanation, John! there is nothing wrong with my watch... :)....which I know now from this thread. My initial thought/feeling was, that something /may/ be wrong because the watch had uptp +10 s win at day and -10s at night. All following questions originated from pure curiosity and interest...nothing dramatic like "my watch has died". Next question is such a question: On the internet I read from people, who "has never give my SEIKO 5 to a watchmaker to service it and it still runs" and from other watches, which were way more expensive, which needs to be serviced ever two (?) years." I am a person, who like to preserve things. I don't like to throw away thing, which do work and I try to repair things, which does not work. So...what is a reasonable interval/period to give my SEIKO SNK809 (a SEIKO 5 with a 7S26C movement) to a watchmaker to service it? Thank you very much for all these great information I got from this forum! Cheers! mcc
  3. Hi, just for the little smile... On the internet I found a company selling AC122 transistors! Guess, what other things they sell, too.... Musical instruments! Oh yeah! Sometimes everything fits together! Cheers! Meino
  4. Hi, oh, THANKS! Another "Red Pill" ... I like that kind of stuff... :) For the 7S26C I read somewhere, that the expected accuracy is between -20s/d and +40s/d but most movements of this kind are better. Do I interpret T0 as "start of measurement" and T24 as "end of measurement/new cycle of measurement" correctly? Another question: If a movement has a greater/bigger/larger/huger (choose one...sorry, no native speaker) power reserve ... does this may imply, that the difference between accuracy when fully wound up and quasi empty is greater as with a watch, which -- say -- 30 h power reserve ? ....because the force (not Luke's one!) is stronger in the beginning ? Cheers! mcc
  5. Hi John, thank you for your explanations! I am quite happy with the accuracy of my SEIKO...no question. The linked PDF is interesting! Thank you! :) The only thing, which drove my curiosity was the value of the standard deviation from the mean value of the accuracy (that is: the resulting offset of the clock from the nominal value in seconds per day), which is acceptable in the sense of: The movement need special attention or not. Or to be more precise: A loss of 1000 seconds at night and a gain of 1005 seconds at day results in the same inaccuracy per day as a loss of 10 seconds at night and a gain of 15 seconds at day. For the first case I would tend to say: "This movement needs special attention...there is something horrible wrong." Since I am a newbie to this topic (watches) I need to develop a sense for "sane values" first... Cheers! :) mcc
  6. I am always interested in the "Red Pill"... (this is only meant in the context of "The Matrix" and has nothing to do with MGTOW or any other political direction, wing, tast or.....smell The """problem""" I have (currently...as a newbie here) is to get a feeling of what is a "expected fluctuation in accuracy" and is therefore expected and what is kinda critical...and needs attention/service. What fascinates me (beside other things of this topic) is the "energy harvesting and accumalting" of an automatic watch... I know of no other technology, which does this so well: Take a watch, which rotor drives a dynamo of some sort, which feeds a capacitor or an accumulator...which cannot preserve the energy over a longer time...and needs replaced because it is worn. A simple main spring (coiled metal...a quite "bare" and "rude" type of mechanic) is more robust in this case and does its job better when it comes to the rate of preserved energy in relation to the amount of energy harvested from arm movements. That's why appreciated inventions like SEIKOs "spring drive" so much...no capacitor, no accumulator...a pure energy harvesting machine, which is as much as possible mechanical and as much as needed electronical. Unfortunately this technical beauty is FAR out of my reach, when it comes to financial aspects of such a marvelous movement.... But...quartz watches were also not cheap in the beginning...let's hope...fingers crossed! Cheers! mcc
  7. The phase of the moon is caused by light and shadow...not by gravity. What you probably meant are the changes of the tides?
  8. Hi Yankeedog, thanks a lot! I know of the cause and effect of gravity...the amount it was, which was unknown to me.... Cheers! mcc
  9. Hi, 17 days ago I bought a SEIKO SNK809 with a 7S26C movement. Since I read, that it is good practice to wear the clock 24/7 for the first three weeks (break in) I did exactly that With the app "WatchCheck" I checked its accuracy. Summed up, its about 5s/day. That's absolutely ok. What triggers my attention/curiosity is the differences in the accuracy: I usually make a measurement in the morning right after I woke up and in evening after work. Work does not involve a lot of arm-movements... After work the watch is running faster up to 12s (max) and right in the morning it has lost up (down) to -4s (min). So the accuracy peak-to-peak in its extrema is 16s/d. Is this high amplitude only triggered by moving/not moving the watch...or there any trouble ahead? Thank you very much for any help! Cheers! mcc
  10. Hi, When it comes to regulate a watch I often read the advice on the net, to position the watch face up at night, when it is too slow or to face it crown down, when it is to fast. In case of the latter I think (read: don't know for sure), that the movement slows down, when resting crown down. Does the increased friction, which may be the source for the slower oscillating balance wheel, imply an additional wear&tear of the movement, which therefore should be avoided? Cheers! mcc
  11. Hi Nucejoe, My problem was the step from the (hypothetical, in this physically not existing) linear speed to the way to find the maximum. Until you post the solution :) Thanks a lot for that!!! :) Cheers! mcc
  12. Hi, this is just a question out of couriosity... My SEIKO SNK809 has a 7S26C movement. Its balance wheel has roughly a 4.5mm radius (I measured that with a transparent ruler on the transparent back of the watch...if someone has the exact value I would be the last one, who insists of the value mentioned above....;) ). From that I can calculate the circumference of the balance wheel. Assuming an amplitude of 260 degree gives me the way a point travels on the balance wheel by multiplying the circumference by 26/36. Furthermore this way is traveled 21600 times an hour. This gives me the linear speed of that point. BUT: The speed changes in accordance to a sine function... And here I got stuck: speed is the derivation of distance by time. The derivation of sine(t) dt gives me a cosine function...and I am again right from where I started..with a 90 degree phase shift. How can I calculate the maximum speed of a point traveling in accordance to a sine function around a circumference if I know the speed it would need to have, when it would be linear motion? I cannot get my head around it... HEEEEEELLLLLPPPPP! Cheers! mcc
  13. Hi, Thanks a lot for all the infos! :) I have googled before...and found quite an amount of "stuff". The problem with google and the interne is: Neither is a watchmaker or watch repair enthusiast. For example: I searched for informations about the 7S26C movement of my SEIKO 5 wrist watch. And found (for example) the following contraductionous (huuuu....this word looks horrible wrong...) informations: NEVER touch the movement with bare hands and a video in which exactly this has been done. NEVER touch _BOTH_ of the pins, which adjust/regulate the hairspring and another video, which says: that one regulates the length and the other one adjust the idle position of the balance wheel and both can be corrected of course. And the whole variations of "the right oil" to lubricate the movement. And.... You get the idea. That's the reason for me to come to the place -- this forum -- , where the density as the chance to meet people, who DEFINETLY know, what they are talking about, and repeat the question here... :) By the way: It seems the my W-707 runs (or better: does not run....hehehe) with a AC122. But I have to confirm this later....with a stronger light and a better lens ;) I will check the coils also...thanks for all the hints and infos!!! My W-707 has a plastic gear. Thank you all again! :) :) :) Cheers! mcc
  14. Hi, this is the "family kitchen clock": This clock is at least as old as I am. It has a W-707 movement...an ATO-MAT, which is kinda "pre quartz"-movement: A rotor like a BIG balance wheel is equipped with four magnets. The first two magnets induce a voltage into a pair of coils, which in turn switches a current, which flows through a second pair of coils, which then pulls the second pair of magnets. Since the second pair sits a little further away on the circumference of the "balance wheel", that wheel gets a kick, and the circle starts at the beginning again. After 55 years of measuring the time, the ATO-MAT suddenly stops working. I checked the obvious things like corroded battery contacts, loose cables, emtpy batteries etc but found nothing. Since this clock is there since I am able to think I definitely want to repair it. And it would be my first clock/watch, which I try to repair. But before I unscrew anything...what is most likely the problem? Is there anything known like "the typical ATO-MAT problem" or "any germanium transistor will die after 50 years" or something like that? I found some schematics of similiar ATO-MATs (not the W-707), which were not THAT complicated. If it is the transistor it will be hard to find a germanium transistor these days I think... Short description of the problem: Insert a battery, switch the starter (which is a little piece of metal, which gives the "balance wheel" its first kick)...the "balance wheel" swings a little (looks not like it would be slowed down by any abnormal friction or so) but the amplitude decreases rapidly until it stops. Thanks a lot for any help in advance! Cheers! mcc
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