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Hello! I took my trusty Swiss Army Watch (24221) to an electronics store for a battery change, and they tried a battery that was a hair too thick, then one that was too thin, before we found the proper size (Renata 371 in case anyone has the same problem). However, the watch did not spring back to life. It had worked fine prior to the battery change (except that it was signalling low voltage with that jumpy sweep of the second hand every few seconds). Also, I was present for the whole procedure and didn't see any undue handling or any insulators falling out or anything that could explain it not restarting. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I'd prefer not to throw out one of my favorite watches if there is still something that can be done, or at least know how to verify that it is really dead. I read that sometimes the "gears have to be spun" to resuscitate the movement, and that this can be done physically or magnetically. How is that done? I'd appreciate any advice from the highly skilled readership here! Cheers!

I was at my local watch and clock makers association meeting on the weekend and during a discussion after the meeting was finished one member raised a point that old (250 years or older) and valuable clocks or timepieces should not be cleaned with modern cleaning solutions because it could ruin them. He was taking it to mean it could damage the material the item was made from. I have a slightly different take on this, yes the alloy of brass and quality of steel (iron) will be different to modern items, but I don't think it would so much damage it as maybe remove some of its history. Such as marking out lines from when it was made, also I would feel returning a 300 year old clock to 'as new' condition would be wrong and it should preserve its patina. There is obviously exceptions to this where an item is so far gone where restoration is the only option, but I would say in general a more conservative cleaning would be in order. Just thought this might be an interesting topic to discuss. I will add that I have not touched nor do I see myself working on a rare and valuable clock / timepiece in the near future.

I received my order of parts on Friday and was very pleased the the centre wheel was correct. On going to fit the cannon pinion to the new centre wheel i discovered why I had so much problems getting it off the old wheel. It looks like the cannon pinion was loose and someone crimped it with side cutters after it was fitted to the shaft, I had to ream it out before I could fit it to the centre wheel, but after much fiddling it fitted perfectly and thew watch is now ticking again.

Out for a test drive... Just finished putting this one together... The movement is a dual train design. Basically, it's two movements on one plate.. The left side train just runs the left balance wheel while the right side side balance and the motion work. If any one is curious, the extra function of the motion work does reduce power to the balance wheel. The left balance wheel has an amplitude of approximately 310 degrees while the right balance will has an amplitude of approximately 285 degrees. For some reason I was not equating this difference to the motion work and thought there was an additional problem. I spent a good amount of time looking for the cause and after switching all the components from left to right I got the same result, lower amplitude on the right side with the addition of powering the motion work as opposed to the left side that just had to transmit power to the balance wheel..

But don't last as long [emoji6] The abrasives just fall off too quickly. As for SS I use Scotchbrite. Sent from my Honor 5c

Cheaper in Poundworld! Also work on stainless steel. They are in the nail beauty section as they are intended for shaping and buffing nails (fingers or toes). Cheers Neil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice! Where can I find it? Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im more of a manual labourer. One of these to remove scratches and flatten acrylic.... Then Polywatch and a Terry towel to bring back the clarity. Sent from my Honor 5c

Double sticky tape i will try definitely! Thank You!

LOL! Well it made me do a big double take. Bezel wear? Nothing a bit of T-Cut couldn't buff out! I've got a couple of Marvins myself and realise they're nice watches but way down the cost hierarchy! If I had nigh on $10k to spend on a watch it wouldn't be on this Marvin which looks like it's been in a cement mixer. The seller is open to offers though so I'm with WillFly ... maybe a $9.95 offer instead of the $9,950?!!

There are so many sharks on ebay. You have to be very careful. Ask the seller to open the back and photo the movement and post the pictures. I bet the answer will be I can't open it.

Wearing a Seiko 6119 splitdate today. Happy Monday everybody! Anilv

I'm in a nostalgic mood today...

Sent from my Honor 5c

7a38-7069 on VNHCA croc Sent from my Honor 5c

Another NOS Benrus..same as the stainless steel version I posted earlier. I purchased a lot of 19 NOS Benrus watches and I'm slowly getting them back in running order. They've been sitting around in their original factory shipping box for over 40 years. Most had broken crystals and some had calendar issues but they all seem to just need a good service to get running correctly... They'll keep me busy for a good while!

What watch do you have on the timer? Just curious. I've bought watches on line but only from a known reputable bricks and mortar store. I don't think I'd buy a watch on line otherwise.

If you can afford to lose $399 take a chance, if not leave well alone.

I’m not someone who would gamble.

To risky I would avoid.

If it looks too good to be true then it probably is. There are "broker" sites that sell some high value watches at a discount which do sell legitimate watches - do your own research :-) As I understand it, some manufacturers require their authorised dealers to take certain quantities of certain watches in order to be able to stock more popular pieces. Sometimes these dealers need to offload these other watches, but are not allowed to advertise them below the authorised price... hence the brokers. I bought my speedy pro this way and have no reason to doubt its authenticity.

Nice write-up for an interesting movement. Even though those Diafix springs can be a real headache (it gave me shivers just seeing them in the pictures), that appears to be a high quality Seiko movement. I especially like Seiko's use of balance bridges in their better movements; they fly a bit under the radar but put together a solid watch. Great tip regarding unwinding the watch in fluid. I can see how that would be helpful in both cleaning the pivots and jewel bearings. Nice work and thanks for sharing!

Office bound today so the Lemania gets an outing. Probably my best car boot score to date at just £7.50. Filthy dirty and not running but all it needed was a COA, a light polish, and a replacement crystal and strap.

7S26-0029 I presume? Very nice, reminiscent of the 6309 & 7002 divers. Seiko spoil you in the States, we are only allowed the 7S26-0020 with the standard circular markers in the UK.

After solving the issue with the balance, I've been wearing this one almost every day. She has been around for a while and shows signs of wear, but I just love her. I need to find a new strap for it. I am considering a thick leather or perhaps a Sinn style silicone band. We shall see.

Another Vertex Revue today, this time an "Allproof". These are really rather nice watches and in my opinion somewhat underrated. I still have to sort out the lume on the hour hand on this but otherwise it was a pretty straight forward restoration.

Today I am wearing one that I am fixing for a friend. How many times has this happened to you: "Hey can you take a look at this watch for me..." Issue: Rust damage. Solution: Replaced Movement, Winding stem, Crown, Second hand, COA. Approximate cost: $75.00 Estimated Value: Hopefully more than $75.... 1950's Dugena Calendar Watch FHF 72-4n Movement.

Today is another Mondia day. Another eBay spares or repair bargain that had had a hard life. If you look closely you can see between the 28 and 29 minute ticks, and at the 57 minute tick there is a little blemish on the dial where a less careful tinkerer had used case clamp screws that were too long so they pushed into the back of the dial raising little bumps on the front.

Today I went with a Lucerne Electra, I quite like the dial on this one.

Thank you clockboy, I do too, but regretfully this movement I will be tackling is US$100! I'm talking about the ETA 251.272 and the next in line in my workbench is not much better, ETA 251.471, same price! If all is well, it will be very rewarding to have them going again without a transplant!

Dear fellow members, I currently own the pictured tester, nevertheless, I'd like to do a more in depth testing on individual circuits in the watch, like component resistance/impedance, continuity, etc. This one is supposed to do some but is not a full meter. Do you have a suggestion of what would be a good amp/ohmmeter and/or full tester for in depth work on digital watches? Thank you in advance, Bob

I'd take it to someone else myself, if he was fiddling around with different batteries, he was rubbish & didn't have a clue! if you take it to the right person they can A. make sure the battery is in properly. B. do a simple test to see if the movement is running electronically. C. use something like a witschi cyclonic to clear any debris from the train. D. diagnose & fix what everys gone wrong!

I think this is an FE movement. There is a positive contact (the one you slightly unscrew to release the battery). and obviously a negative contact. Make sure the battery is not upside down. The writing on the battery should be facing upwards. The second thing to look for is to make sure the battery isolator is not missing. This, I think, is orange in colour and resides between the lower negative contact - between the negative contact and the lower plate. If the negative of the battery is in any way touching the metal plate of the watch movement (e.g. if the isolator is missing) then the battery will be shorting and the watch will not work. Isolators can easily be overlooked when removing the battery and a less experienced technician will not realise it was there in the first place. I hope this helps.

It is possible some debris has entered the wheels. Also - it is possible that a small piece of metal has attached to the stepping rotor (magnet) and the only solution will be to dismantle the train wheels and check everything under magnification Ferdinand.