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My immediate concern would be the amplitude. Get that above 250 on a full wind and then have a look at the readings.

As usual I agree with you Marc. Preparation is everything, the polish, degreasing of the item and the careful even application of the blueing medium is all important. I used to use a cold blue for re-touching the finish on target firearms I worked on, it was quick and easy and gave a very acceptable result regarding appearance. This does not give a finish that is anywhere as durable as the original finish and will have to be re-applied now and again. Here is the brand that I use. If you decide to use this, remember to rinse all the blueing fluid of then blow dry. Once dry, oil the surface to prevent corrosion.

Assuming that the parts you want to blue are steel there are two approaches to bluing. The first is heat which I would not recommend as you're going to need to get a lot of heat into it and the chances of warping or otherwise distorting it are high, let alone the risk of adversely affecting the hardness of the frame. The second approach is to chemically blue it using a treatment that is applied to the surface. As a teenager I used to restore vintage air rifles and tried a number of the proprietary preparations with varying degrees of success. The most critical factor seemed to be degreasing and absolute cleanliness in order to avoid a blotchy and uneven finish, but if I got that right then the results were fairly good. You will need to ensure that the surface finish is even before you start though, either a really good mirror polish over the whole surface or an even grained or brushed finish as any variation will be very obvious in the finished item. It has been a (very!!!) long time since I played those games though so I'm somewhat out of touch with brands that are available, your best bet might well be to browse a couple of gunsmithing forums and web sites to see what the current state of the technology is. Also, it might be worth waiting to see if Geo has any input as I know that he has also had some gunsmithing experience. Another alternative might be to use what I think is called black lead. I know nothing about it or how it works other than that it used to be used to keep cast iron stoves and fire places looking good.

My thoughts were is he going to become a burglar.

If you want the sound of a classic Grandfather clock around the house and the financial budget won't allow, you could do a lot worse than this. It's a Seiko chime quartz wall clock. I've had it a couple of years and if you turn the volume up, it's loud ! Retails around £70 Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

one hast to keep trying and reading

perhaps a musical clock near the work bench (with the proper music) [and proper volume setting] could lower the blood pressure ?

Thank you all. Whilst I will dig out my USB Microscope and check for those digits, it would appear to be what I thought: "Sis, do you like it enough to splash the cash? Then wear it, enjoy it, and forget the money". Specifically to jdm: Thank you. As a qualified accountant I have too many acquaintances who beat-around-the-bush. There is little I appreciate more (anyone remember sex?) than "straight from the hip" and I appreciate your clarity.

Here you're faced with a major in vintage -and even contemporary- watch market, which is: ladies watches. These, unfortunately, are much less marketable than men's watches. Say, at least one half of that that, or less. What that means? Sorry I'll be brutal If the case / bracelet are in gold - as well genuine diamonds, it will be worth weight value, but your is not. If a movement if valuable that will be perhaps 50 euros max. Cost of refurbish, same or higher than a men watch. Fashion appeal for a today lady? Very, very small. Draw you own conclusion. Any work/money spent on ladies watch is probably justified only by sentimental value.

I did spare a thought for you when I wrote the thread. Hope the blood pressure is under control [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I've just done a wee bit of research and it appears to be a Baume Mercier BM375 17 jewel movement.

a chiming quartz clock.? perhaps the winders are for the spring powered generator that runs the d.c. motors.

I would bet a lot of cash that the dial has been refinished. Tissot is a good quality watch, and that dial is anything but. Here is a photo of a Tissot about the same vintage. The dial is not identical, but look at the quality compared with the one you have.

Tim A process called rust bluing is the way to go. It's very easy and looks beautiful, but it is a process that needs to be learned. Again google and u tube are good resources. I do a lot of it, I have been restoring vintage firearms for a while now. I have a cottage on OAK Island and would be happy to walk you through it next time I'm down. Tom

...and the zero on the 60. Having said that, because of its age, it has a certain charm and I quite like it...

I wouldn't like to say for certain one way or the other. I'm not sure that there isn't something not quite right about the font, and the numerals look as though the printing isn't perfectly even, but these could just be down to the lighting and the photograph. What I would say is that if it is a redial then it's an old one with a nice even patina. Redials used to be done almost as a matter of course during a service if the original was in less than great shape. One clue that can often help is to uncase the watch and look at the dial edge. Often redials have a small "V" notch in the edge at the 12 or 3 position to help register the dial in the pad printer.

Update : the darn thing started to slip again, so I need to square the hole in the spring I guess. This is getting tiring, thought I fixed it. Ahhhhhhhh! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you vinn, it is not really for me, although I am tempted. It is for my brother in law, that and lapel pins/key chains are his collections. This is a new one hobby for him but considering he already have some vintage stuff, it is a default, to service and make them workable again. In the meantime let me echo one of the members here: If I start collecting something else my wife will throw me out of the house!

I never use water...only L&R solutions, One-Dip and Lighter Fluid depending on what I'm doing...so, maybe it is the water?

Aye those chastity belts can be a bugger to get off Vic

If the balance is completely out, then no matter how many balance screws you add you won’t get far. Start right from the beginning and remove all what you have added. Then start from there by gradually adjusting them, it might just be an adjustment to the original ones. Are you sure the balance is true and not bent. Also make sure the roller is correct and even all round not distorted in any way and impulse jewel is tight in its mounting and no rough edges and is of the correct size. There is also the possibility the hairspring is not compatible with the balance wheel. You could also make sure the staff is correct and not a replacement, check the fittings around the balance wheel and the staff I can’t think the treads from Russian pocket watches will fit an American pocket watch balance.

Not a pro for sure Just so excited while discovering this new watchmaking world. For an experienced watchmaker this is an every day job And i am sure i could make it better. For example if i had a glass fiber scratch brush, then the bluing would be better. Also i am not satisfied with the setting lever slot.The rectangular edges here are not perfect. I will have to grind a better graver to cut this type of slots. Made a video of this project, threading included.

Don't see interesting watch crystals like this anymore.

An octagon case? Unusual! Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

Says the guy with "JDM" as his user name [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1]