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Assembly: Escape wheel tricks?


glnds

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I've already broken two escape wheels when assembling a watch (i broke the tiny little top on top of the stem). It happens when i try to place back the train wheel bridge.

Placing the bridge back is for me the hardest part when assembling a watch. Am i doing something wrong ( or am i just clumsy) or is there just a nice trick to do it?

Any help appreciated!

Grtz,

Gert

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27 minutes ago, glnds said:

I've already broken two escape wheels when assembling a watch (i broke the tiny little top on top of the stem). It happens when i try to place back the train wheel bridge.

Placing the bridge back is for me the hardest part when assembling a watch. Am i doing something wrong ( or am i just clumsy) or is there just a nice trick to do it?

Any help appreciated!

Grtz,

Gert

That's one thing I haven't broke, so I cant help. I have broke a bunch of other parts. Sorry

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I think it's just a matter of more patience and checking before screwing the train bridge down. Marks videos are excellent and worth watching. I've noticed that when all pivots are in their respective jewel holes. If any one is likely to jump out, it's the damm escape wheel. Don't know why ?
Just keep gentle pressure on the train bridge all the time you're screwing down and when you think everything is ok, check again ! and again ! Any stiffness of the train wheel motion. Back Off and start again

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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Be careful. :) I don't dare say anything i haven't broken. Definitely escape. pallet fork more the 10 :) But i learned more and more and to be gentle and take it very little at a time. Pin lever movement without jewels are a pay to align . 

Edited by rogart63
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Yep i think everyone has said it all just apply gentle pressure to the bridge and gentle manipulation of the wheels until they jump into their respective jewel holes you will feel it when everything falls into place and I agree Rogart unjewelled movemenrs are a pain and much harder to align correctly. 

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Hi Gert..This is a common question and the hardest thing to overcome. I teach many first time students these techniques over the years because students don't relax and want to make it harder than it is and they will break pivots ( the tiny little top on the top of the stem") if  not all pivots are in the proper holes and spinning and meshing before tightening screws. You will need good light and 7x magnification loupe or optivisors. If you have trouble, practice trying to place one wheel only on bottom plate then place bridge or top plate and find the pivot hole/jewel hole with # 5 tweezers, then spin the wheel. Disassemble and try two meshing  wheels and so forth. A simple thin weak rubber band can also help some students keeping real light pressure together while inserting each pivot in proper holes until dexterity is achieve. Also if screws are long enough just start them to keep plates and bridges in proper alignment while inserting top pivots into proper top plate or bridge holes. Also I always tighten the screws a little at a time and check freedom of each wheel before tightening more.  Remember each wheel needs freedom and also tiny endshake ( arbor up and down movement) A liitle patience and extra time save purchasing parts due to rushing....I hope this will help. Bill

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I find it a lot easieri if the pallet fork is removed, it's much better for testing whethert the train is free and smooth before tightening the bridge,

A goods strong loupe shoulde enable you to see the pivot is in place.

Check then check again, time spent checking is time and money saving

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That is something that is hard to explain. And on videos it is always so easy :) Sure if someone has a lot of experience and the videos are also edited to show the correct moments. Maybe You could ask someone showing how to do it.

First dont screw in the screw! Just put back the bridge until all pivots are in their respective holes. The bridges should fall in their place if all ok, or if the aligning pins are dirty or they have a stiff fit, then just push on jently with a grass tweezer or pegwood tip while always checking that the pins are going in their place. Check that the wheel is moving freely and then push a bit on the bridge again. If all is in place then get to the screws. 

My hardest time with reassembly was the DG2813 where i had to align 6 pivots at the same time since the automatic winding wheels are also under the train bridge :) Moreover, one had a click spring pressure on it. 

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19 hours ago, glnds said:

I've already broken two escape wheels when assembling a watch (i broke the tiny little top on top of the stem). It happens when i try to place back the train wheel bridge.

Did you had the pallets removed when that happened?

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Depending on the particular movement, I sometimes screw in the bridge screws a couple of turns once the pinions are seated. This sometimes helps to keep the bridge parallel/flush when pressing the bridge down.


Absolutely. A full plate Waltham pocket watch can be quite a wobbly affair fitting the full plate. If you don't use the screws you're be here to this time next year fitting the plate. I've never broke a pivot this way. I have broken the English lever trying to fit the plate. Not by screwing down but lifting the plate to see what I'm doing, whilst the lever was in the turret. FATAL MISTAKE !

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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Also...once you've got the wheels in their pivots and turning satisfactorily...don't relax too much! screw the bridge down slowly, checking that the wheels turn. It is possible for the escape wheel to 'escape' as you're tightening things down.

Hmmm , I always thought that the escape wheel was named so because it is a part of ty he escapement....now I've found another reason for the name!

Anil

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