Jump to content

Which Watch Have You Got Coming In The Mail ? Show Us !!!


SCOTTY

Recommended Posts

Eddie Stobart Chinese standard skeletonized movement at a 404 club price.

AsPurchasedCropped-l1600.thumb.jpg.edade8de85d482f06bdf9d4082f8ac41.jpg

These show up pretty often, and were made in huge numbers, so if you want a cheap pocket watch to play with, or spares for some other Chinsese standard movement watch, look out for these.

The quality is average to good, for this kind of mechanism.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AsPurchasedCropped-l1600.jpg.0bb67dfc2ff10b27454c090ba155a0aa.jpg

According to the seller, this is a non runner 21 jewel ETA 2892 based automatic. There were no pictures of the movement in the listing, only external views, so it might actually have a ball of string and half a sardine in it.

However since it was only a penny short of two quid, and since it has a rather interesting Saudi flag dial, I thought it was worth investigation. If it is as described, then I guess I've..won a watch, so to speak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a load of ebay £10's in the post to start playing with, but this one caught my eye last night having just been listed.

I paid way more than I should of (£35) but it didn't exactly break the bank, and it all looks ok so might just need a service 🙂

Why?..... It was a prop in Blitz & Pieces, Gary Sparrow's (Nicholas Lyndhurst) memorabilia shop in Goodnight Sweetheart. How awesome, I loved that show.

 

 

GSwatch.jpg

GSwatch2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

On 1/31/2022 at 6:22 PM, Jimg1969 said:

Bought a lot for 16.00, looks to have a vintage bulova, a small accutron and one that looks to be a vintage mido multifort with a rectangle case. Should be here Thursday, can't wait.

Screenshot_20220131-182205_Poshmark.jpg

My lot arrived Thursday and include a running Mido with a 14k gold case. Was shocked,its also keeps good time. The seller even threw in a couple timex electronic and dynabeat watches.. score 

20220203_224424.jpg

20220203_224455.jpg

20220203_224507.jpg

Edited by Jimg1969
.
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

AsPurchasedCropped-l1600.jpg.6498fe44e3822507e0c99d9993758b48.jpg

A fairy early Swiss quartz (the late 1970s or early eighties artwork in the included instruction booklet state it runs at 32768 Hz, so that kind of dates it).

Generally I wouldn't pay much attention to a quartz watch, but this is Swiss made,  has the original box, warranty and instruction leaflet, and of course an irresistible blue dial. Limit International, in one form or another have been around since around 1912.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, AndyHull said:

AsPurchasedCropped-l1600.jpg.6498fe44e3822507e0c99d9993758b48.jpg

A fairy early Swiss quartz (the late 1970s or early eighties artwork in the included instruction booklet state it runs at 32768 Hz, so that kind of dates it).

Generally I wouldn't pay much attention to a quartz watch, but this is Swiss made,  has the original box, warranty and instruction leaflet, and of course an irresistible blue dial. Limit International, in one form or another have been around since around 1912.

Have you got a picture of the movement Andy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Have you got a picture of the movement Andy?

Nope. So its a bit of a lottery. However at the price I paid, I can't really be disappointed, no matter what is in it. I'll be happy if it works.

At a guess I would think it might be a Ronda of some sort, but it could be pretty much any early(ish) Swiss quartz.

I'll post pics of it when it arrives. Limit used a variety of different manufacturers over the years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AsPurchased-l1600.thumb.jpg.0b80770db539d7ae5950eca01e796ba6.jpg

An HMT Slim with a white dial and an HMT Chethan with a gold dial are on their way. Both are complete (with their respective case backs).

AsPurchasedRearOpened-l1600.thumb.jpg.54c0d77aad079713147a95c7ca4e3716.jpg

The slim may have a loose crown, as it appears to be sticking out in some of the listing pictures, but that should be easy enough to remedy.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I hoped that the dirt would keep ppl away from the biding, but unfortunately is was not the case. £41 +P&P was my winning bid. I wanted one because I have NOS 1223 movements and I wanted to case one, I got no hands dial and case so far. I bought another one since my post above, that one was £65 +P&P.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Tiny said:

Where do I start ?

The best is starting with watches that are recommended for beginners, check thread below. Ingersoll, Timex, Chinese are not recommended.

Then, you need a minimum of €50 of tools just for opening, closing cases, replace brands and crystals, do hands removal and refitting. Multiply by at least 4 times to get decently equipped for mov.t work, which needs a timegrapher. Often negleted is to mention that you need to setup your space to have excellent lightning, work at least a chest high unless you have superpowers or like to lose parts and be miserabile kneeling around on the floor.

If you are really serious about learning what is what and how things are properly done, consider enrolling the high quality training by our Host Mark Lovick at watchfix.com.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with all of the above, and would add magnification to the basic list. A x4 loop/loupe or an angle poise magnifier at the bare minimum. Things like tweezers, oils, screwdrivers and so on have their own threads here, where they have been discussed in great detail.

A lot of watch parts are pretty small, and I don't know about you, but my eyes 'aint quite as perfect as they once were.

Pocket watches are a good place to start, the parts are slightly larger.

TImex pin levers are fiddly, and can be a bit of a nightmare for a beginner. Ingersoll are a mixed bunch. Some of them are cheap pin lever movements, which can be as tricky as Timexes, others are fully jewelled and reasonable quality.

Chinese mechanical movements are such a variable mix in terms of quality, and can therefore be difficult to get running well, so they might also disappoint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This one just showed up. I put a rally strap on it which looks closer to the Breitling it's based on. I'm curious how this ST 1901 movement will hold up. For $199 delivered it seems like a good price and it even has a sapphire crystal on the front.

 

Front.thumb.jpg.6fe8d02f1d41263f9df95e12fb97ef1a.jpg

 

Back.thumb.jpg.f8d20de2fb3a2725df4bc93205f790c7.jpg

Edited by GuyMontag
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

AsPurchased1-l1600.thumb.jpg.e2bb40098d0559f54e0fc2abc4ebbbfd.jpg

 

I have a 1968 Timex Viscount on its way. The crystal and crown are missing, but that shouldn't present too much of a challenge. Other than that, a whopping crop of dirt, and some missing lume, it looks to be complete. It has its case back.

AsPurchasedRear-l1600.thumb.jpg.fe3e94c64c71ce515b552d7b504a8dda.jpg

Naturally this came in at the low end of the 404 club price spectrum, but I'm pretty hopeful it will spruce up very nicely.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

AsPurchased-l1600.thumb.jpg.4e401ba39953c605f38a35524612bb3a.jpg

A pale blue transparent day/date Swatch SUOW701 (W56/09), possibly the "Sea Rebel" design, with box for 0.99p

How could anyone resist?

Needs at minimum, a crystal (I have a pile of potential donors from a 404 club job lot), and a good clean and polish.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Quite true , anybody visiting the forum can access that information, may be better holding that link in a private message that only members can access. Then again anyone can become a member hmmm.  Have a seperate email unrelated to your regular use email ? I did think about real names, mine isn't. 
    • Anyway, new machines are designed to fail after 5 years. 😮‍💨
    • Great idea - but can access to this thread or the list be restricted to member only somehow? Or move it to a new category linked from here, and make that category members only? At the moment the list - with all the real names & contact info - is totally unprotected and accessible to any spambot or other malicious webscapers, which is rather worrying. (Just tried it with a different browser & via proxy in the US - this thread and the list are fully public, at present).  
    • I've been programming, building electronics for, repairing and retrofitting machine tools and industrial automation systems for over 40 years now. I could have retired, but I always have work queued up - and I still enjoy it; also building electronics, robots and animatronics (among other things) as hobbies. There is a vast range of work in machine tool / robotics / industrial automation field, and not all that many really good people, who fully understand the electronics and software side, rather than having been forced in to it from the mechanical side & struggling with anything to do with electronics or software. I can't help with the qualifications side - things have changed too much over the years, & I started my business before I left school. At the time I was getting criticised and even penalised by teachers for spending too much time on the school "computer" (a massive early programmable calculator, really) because computers & programming were a waste of time, according to them!   One big problem I am aware of is that a lot of university courses have little to no correlation to real-world industrial machines and equipment - most of the equipment in the field that needs work is old! You have to be an enthusiast and study older system and techniques; it's no good knowing the state of the art electronics & software inside out when you are more likely to be working on a 50 year old machine than a brand new one. The oldest machine I routinely work on was made in 1911; many are from the 1950s - 80s. New machines tend to be under warranties or service contracts, so only the makers agents ever touch them - it's the older gear that gets sold on after it's showing its age and really needs actual engineers!  
    • I got this set from Cousins. I believe the arbors are steel and it's been working very well. Not all Chinese sets are the same. Some a decent and some are crap. My most appreciated mainspring winder is my Master Craft Mainspring Winder:  
×
×
  • Create New...