Jump to content

Hattori And Myota


Recommended Posts

I've fixed a couple of cheap quartz movements such as these, either when parts weren't needed or i could salvage them from another of the same movement. 

The only reasons to bother (unless just for fun) is if you don't have time to wait on a new replacement movement from a supplier, or if there's a specific reason you'd rather not disrupt the hands/dial. (which you'll have to do if you need to take apart the gear train.)

The reasons not to repair these are simply because, as far as I'm aware suppliers don't bother supplying the individual components, so in order to replace a damaged part you'd need a whole new movement anyway. 

It's just not worth in paid work, to try and save money on a movement that might be only a couple of pounds by spending 10's of extra minutes taking a movement apart in the time you could have just switched the old movement out. 

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I never bothered with quartz watch repairs apart from fitting batteries couldn't stand them. If the cost of the repair is going to be more then the cost of the watch, that is a good enough reason not to repair it.

Unless the watch is of sentimental value to the customer - in that case, any watch is worth doing despite its value unless it's an impossible task.

I remember stripping and cleaning Miyota 2032 movements all the time. That was when we were charging £15 to service and the movement cost £6.50 or so to buy new. So it was worth the hour it took to strip and clean them.

ed0d0df39a3ce581c54e3945c12e15ae.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently serviced /repaired a Seiko 7T32 and although a successful conclusion it was pain and I did not enjoy the learning experience.. The parts are not only tiny they are very delicate and the replacement parts are very difficult to source. The cheaper movements in my option are not economical to repair just far better to replace the whole movement.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently serviced /repaired a Seiko 7T32 and although a successful conclusion it was pain and I did not enjoy the learning experience.. The parts are not only tiny they are very delicate and the replacement parts are very difficult to source. The cheaper movements in my option are not economical to repair just far better to replace the whole movement.

Not an easy movement to work on. Hats off to you.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I never bothered with quartz watch repairs apart from fitting batteries couldn't stand them. If the cost of the repair is going to be more then the cost of the watch, that is a good enough reason not to repair it.

 

There are quartz movements costing many hundreds, or which are simply unobtainable. Doing what is not economically convenient is one thing (certainly not very smart), working and learning on one's own time for the education and satisfaction is another. Also I think that dismissing a watch just because it has something more that just wheels and gears is snobbish and limiting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled down and re-assembled a Seiko 7T62, interesting learning experience but what a pain trying to get those 4 magnetic rotors aligned to fit the bridge, little buggers would just not stand up straight.

 

Max

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are quartz movements costing many hundreds, or which are simply unobtainable. Doing what is not economically convenient is one thing (certainly not very smart), working and learning on one's own time for the education and satisfaction is another. Also I think that dismissing a watch just because it has something more that just wheels and gears is snobbish and limiting.

I never had my workshop geared up for quartz watch repairs. I did manual watches high grade stuff not cheap plastic rubbish. My main work was with antique clocks Longcase, bracket french that sort of work things that took days sometimes weeks to complete, there wasn't enough hours in a day to undertake every conceivable repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How times change Oldhippy. You had the best of times. How guys like Mark earn a living with watch repairs; today in a throw away society, one can only speculate.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Lol. People do not throw away Breitling Navitimers

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With quartz watches so cheap and usually reliable and very accurate (even the Chinese cheapy stuff use Miyota and Hattori movements) then it is, indeed, a throwaway society as Digginstony suggests.  That covers the vast majority of average working blokes who have a watch to wear to work.  Then there's that 10 or so % of the population that can afford real Omegas, etc...  Those watches you DON'T throw away...you fix 'em and watchmakers exist to service that market and the folks who still have much-loved old watches and family heirlooms. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did manual watches high grade stuff not cheap plastic rubbish.

That's a bit of a harsh sweeping statement. The inference is that all quartz movements are cheap rubbish, this is very far from the case, there are some beautifully engineered quartz movements around.

Here's an example, and there are many more.

post-124-0-83014700-1457544950_thumb.jpe

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think Stroppy was harsh. Pretty much on the ball. Don't forget Omega don't produce quartz watches now and their mechanical movements are now "In House " and you try getting replacement parts from them. Hopefully some enterprising company will start making generic replacements, to keep the independents going. The general trends I think, seems to be in house and everything has to come back to us. Could be wrong, hopefully I am. As regards the "Quartz " Even a no jewel movement has the potential to be as accurate as a well regulated mechanical, by a master regulator.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think Stroppy was harsh. Pretty much on the ball. Don't forget Omega don't produce quartz watches now and their mechanical movements are now "In House " and you try getting replacement parts from them. Hopefully some enterprising company will start making generic replacements, to keep the independents going. The general trends I think, seems to be in house and everything has to come back to us. Could be wrong, hopefully I am. As regards the "Quartz " Even a no jewel movement has the potential to be as accurate as a well regulated mechanical, by a master regulator.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I think they were reacting to Old Hippy's opinion of quartz movements, not what you or I wrote.  As to quartz movements...my most accurate watches in my humble collection are all quartz with original buying prices from $100AU to $300.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • With something like this a gasket seal for instance if i cant find the relevant information i would use instinct to decide what fits and works best. You have the original gasket ( well maybe its original or hopefully it is )so its fairly easy to determine what material to use. Shape , for that i would look at the gasket seatings, are there grooves or recesses in either the case back or case or both, what shape are the grooves, flat or round etc, how does the gasket sit and behave in those seatings. Next thickness,that is going to be a bit of a guess, especially if the gasket is a soft one that has been heavily compressed over time. This is where a selection is going to come in handy, personally i would be choosing one that is giving me the feel of compression as its coming into contact with both of the mating surfaces. But not so much that the gasket is going to squash out and become distorted, again this is guesswork and feel is required with the allowance of compression over time, something you may want to check after six months. This part is a little moot as without a pressure test, good water resistance is not assured so the watch needs to treated as such and not as if it were a new diving watch ( not that i would treat any new diving watch as if were ). What you want to expect from your efforts is a little accidental rain catch, if you want more water resistance guarantee then a professional gasket replacement and pressure test is what you should be seeking which will be more than the value of this watch. Coincidentally i have the same watch, been searching for a stem for it for a while now. 
    • It might not be a hook it might be something like this. But still the mainspring is catching on something on the slip ring because it doesn't have its own outer slipping part like the modern ones. The image below came from some vintage Omega thing I'll have to see if I can find where that has gone to.documentation A different book has this          
    • I did not see a hook on the slip ring. I will check again tomorrow.
    • I think I'm having a confusion here? You would apply the breaking grease to the inside of the barrel then the slip ring would go inside. Then the mainspring goes in and it catches on the hook on the slip ring.
    • Thank you for the once again very thorough and informative reply. I'm sure at this point it's academic, but I'm always curious to know best practices. This then implies that If I'm planning to reuse the old mainspring (which I am), I should also reinstall the slip ring. I will do that and apply braking grease to the inside of the slip ring as if it were the barrel. This makes the most sense to me. Also, that bit about the center cannon pinion is very helpful. That wasn't in the tech sheet I have (attached) dated 1970. Omega 1001(1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...