Jump to content

Hand pipe tightener

Graziano

By Graziano
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is a great tool for tightening pipe hands on vintage watches and especially the centre seconds hands on 7750 chrono and reshape centre seconds hands on seiko 6138 and 6319 movements so you can repush hands on back at zero. Even short pipe. Just pick a collet, place it into the tightener and turn screw slowly, rotate hand and repeat. And presto you can now push tight hands back on. From .4mm to 2.6mm

 

 

IMG_20201101_102558.jpg

IMG_20201101_102314.jpg

Edited by Graziano
Space at. 4mm
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

I do use a lathe chuck for the same purpose. But it would be nice to have one of those pipe tighteners as they do have advantages - the large surface plate lets you ensure the hand (or winding crown) remain flat as they can become distorted when tightening, and the chucks supplied also have flush ends rather than being domed. 
It may also have a finer thread for tightening which may give better control. 
Still too pricey for me though. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

I just bought one of these, 20 something years in as a professional, used either the lathe and collets or pinvices that take Schaublin P4.5 collets (have a bunch) all this time, but given the number of chronos I do figured the auction price will pay for itself in a year then I get 2 decades of free use till I retire. Then back on Ebay. I'll start it at 1 buck in 2040, haha.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, Watchtime said:

amazing tool...but a bit pricey for me

Hi Mr Watchtime yes very pricey. I should go to the boutique watch stores here in Australia and see what they have done with their seconds hands. Pick them up and retighten them and sell them back to them. Maybe pay for itself. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 hours ago, watchweasol said:

A professional tool but probably a bit out of the range of the hobbyist who w ould  not do enough to justify the cost,  but as a tool junkie  Nice.

Hi Mr watchweasol your correct, but it is very nice tool and extremely handy for vintage watch resto, I like to make sure original hands are tight. It's also great to sit back and look at it. (that's the tool junkie bit) ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, jdm said:

For completness, the high price mentioned above is currently GBP 505 before VAT (where due). Consider spending the same or less for some precision lathe collets and chuck. 

Hi Mr jdm, I got mine for nearly 200 pounds cheaper than that, but yes you could use collets in lathe. But I guess it's like everything, you pay for convenience. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, rodabod said:

I do use a lathe chuck for the same purpose. But it would be nice to have one of those pipe tighteners as they do have advantages - the large surface plate lets you ensure the hand (or winding crown) remain flat as they can become distorted when tightening, and the chucks supplied also have flush ends rather than being domed. 
It may also have a finer thread for tightening which may give better control. 
Still too pricey for me though. 

Hi Mr rodabod, for even more control there is an allan key that fits into the middle of the tightening knob for very small controlled movement 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I just bought one of these, 20 something years in as a professional, used either the lathe and collets or pinvices that take Schaublin P4.5 collets (have a bunch) all this time, but given the number of chronos I do figured the auction price will pay for itself in a year then I get 2 decades of free use till I retire. Then back on Ebay. I'll start it at 1 buck in 2040, haha.

Hi Mr nickelsilver I do believe it will pay for itself. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Graziano said:

Hi Mr oldhippy sometimes I have to bite the bullet, and they obviously know it. But nobody else makes a tool like it. Anyway if you like I can rent it to you ?

Ha Ha Ha, thanks but no thanks I retired from Watch Clock/making back in the second half of the 80's due to poor health. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Ha Ha Ha, thanks but no thanks I retired from Watch Clock/making back in the second half of the 80's due to poor health. 

But still your contribution to the industry lives on and on, good stuff. But still you don't have to use it, you can just look at it. 

Edited by Graziano
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
praezis Super WRT Addict

praezis

Posted
Posted

I use this for chronograph hands:

hands_press1.jpg.1880715e13e486b725c47d01ae587f4a.jpg

hands_press2.jpg.c7c84e025c98baf723c21daadc6b8a95.jpg

Made from a small pinvice, it works sensitive, fast, repeatable and takes least room in the drawer ?

With the Bergeon tool I am concerned if the procedure will be durable. It makes a small constriction on the tube and does not narrow the whole tube - what I learn from its description and drawing.

Frank

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, praezis said:

I use this for chronograph hands:

hands_press1.jpg.1880715e13e486b725c47d01ae587f4a.jpg

hands_press2.jpg.c7c84e025c98baf723c21daadc6b8a95.jpg

Made from a small pinvice, it works sensitive, fast, repeatable and takes least room in the drawer ?

With the Bergeon tool I am concerned if the procedure will be durable. It makes a small constriction on the tube and does not narrow the whole tube - what I learn from its description and drawing.

Frank

Hi there Praezis, that's a handy second hands tool you have, as you say doesn't take up much room. The bergeon tool is made for tightening the whole pipe of hands and you can also tighten crown pipes and case tubes. Here is a photo of inside the smallest collet 0.40mm. The tube section where the hand fits is about 4mm long 

IMG_20201103_200222.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Graziano WRT Addict

Graziano

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 hours ago, praezis said:

Hi Graziano,
did they change the collets design?

I was referring to this info from my Bergeon catalog:

hand_press3.jpg.7d0e9669cad0cd57f01f1ec05296778d.jpg

Frank

Hi Frank, looks like they have changes the design, this tool is the newest version and it will tighten the length of the pipe. Especially good for Seiko 6138 chronograph, to be able to use the same centre seconds hand. You need to round and tighten the tube to place back at zero. Also flyback chronograph, and any other hand. Cheers Frank 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Waggy
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By Waggy · Posted

      hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Mallard
      Vintage pocket watches from e-bay (winding stems needed)

      By Mallard · Posted

      Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Waggy
      2813

      By Waggy · Posted

      Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Murks
      2813

      By Murks · Posted

      Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Waggy
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Waggy · Posted

      Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
×
×
  • Create New...