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Found 12 results

  1. Some time ago I bought a Bergeon micrometre (and a Seitz jewelling tool) to be able to replace damaged jewels. The micrometre works perfectly down to the exact hundredth of a millimetre but trying to measure my first jewel I bumped into a very unexpected problem; the height adjustable round table fouls the spindle (circled in red). I don’t think, or rather I hope, that the micrometre isn’t out of order and can be adjusted so that the spindle does not bump into the table. But searching high and low I just can’t find any documentation or user manual for this type of micrometre. Being a hobbyist having spent a small fortune on these tools, this situation is very frustrating. So, the question is, what can I do to adjust my micrometre? As I have no clue what the various parts of the micrometre are named, I have given the various parts in the pictures a letter (in yellow) so that if anyone who knows how do this (and takes pity on me ) more easily can guide me. Keeping my fingers crossed. Hard!
  2. Hello all! I have been struggling with the matter of mainspring winders for a while and I want to share some of my experience with Bergeon mainspring winders. First, there two major types: the old ones, with a spoke on the arbor (30081): and the newer ones with a recess on the arbor (Nivarox): Side by side #6: to be continued...
  3. I probably thought about it for a year, before pulling the trigger on a Bergeon 4854 Cannon Pinion Remover, thinking expensive but that it would be the ultimate tool for the job. Especially so having seen Mark Lovick use this tool in his videos, for example this video. Well, it certainly didn’t work out the way I was expecting. It simply won’t pull the cannon pinion. I’ve recorded a video of it here. I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong, and I don’t think the remover has any parts missing as I took it apart in an attempt to figure out how it works. It seems to be a simple enough design to understand. Anyway, I guess I could be wrong about that, and if so please let me know! When looking at Mark Lovick’s video the design of the tool (the grabbing part) looks different from my copy of the tool. I guess Bergeon changed the design and unfortunately into something that just doesn’t work, but I agree, that doesn’t sound very plausible. Well, I’m more than puzzled! What should I do?
  4. I’m considering ordering a couple of Bergeon mainspring winders from CousinsUK, and I really want to get it right as these are expensive tools. The way I read it, the specified diameter of each winder is the outer diameter of the winder’s barrel drum. That is, I would need to order a winder having a smaller specified diameter than the inner diameter of the mainspring barrel I’m going to use it with? For example, if the inner diameter of my mainspring drum is 9.80 mm (as is the actual case) a Bergeon No.6 Winder Ø9.80mm would be too large, or just right, no, yes?
  5. Hi All, Thought id share this weeks tool purchase. My case cushion i've been using for a while now has become a bit worn and the cushion itself seems to have shrunk a little, leaving a gap between it and the base - so the odd screw or part disappears! So i thought id try one of these new Gel cushions from Bergeon, but as usual with anything Bergeon it wasn't cheap. Retails for about £26 including VAT (this is the larger one, there is a smaller for a few pounds less) but i have to say i'm really happy with it, so would recommend one.
  6. I’m scouting eBay looking for a used Bergeon mainspring winder set like this. So far I’ve only used my fingers to replace mainsprings, and although it works, it is a delicate process, and I never feel perfectly confident doing it, and I’ve probably damaged (a bit) one or two mainsprings in the process. Anyway, I’ve only just recently learned that not all mainsprings are wound in the same direction. Up until just a few days ago I had only serviced Vostok 24XX movements and a Unitas 6498 (following along the 2nd course on watchrepairlessons.com, good stuff BTW). However the movement I’m servicing now is a Poljot 2614.2H, and one of the differences is that its mainspring, unlike the Vostoks and the Unitas, is wound counter clockwise (inner to outer coil) when placed in the barrel. Watching the video on how to use a Bergeon mainspring winder on watchrepairlessons.com, it is obvious (I guess?) that the winder used in the video wouldn’t work with my Poljot mainspring, as the hook on the mainspring winder tool is for mainsprings that are wound clockwise, and this brings me to my first question; Would the mainspring winder set I linked to work with both types of mainsprings, clockwise and counter-clockwise? My second question is the result of trying to understand the listings of the Bergeon mainspring winders on cousinsuk.com. There are "left" and "right" handles, and "left" and "right" arbors for winders. I don’t understand what the "left" and "right" refers to, but my guess is that it determines the direction of the hook pulling the coil when wound into the winder barrel? Or, maybe it’s just a matter of the watch repairer being right or left handed? Or, something else? If anyone can bring some light to my questions, or have some informational links to share, I’d be very happy!
  7. I have ordered recently a couple of Beregeon 30080 screwdrivers from Cousins. To my surprise I found them quite different from those I use from many years. First of all they do not fit to my Bergeon rotating stand. The small ones have now handles of larger diameter. They are also heavier than the former ones. Old design at the left, new design at the right Surprisingly it makes quite a difference in using them, particularly the small ones . It seems that Bergeon has silently redesigned its most popular screwdrivers in order reduce the manufacturing costs. Now there are only three sizes of handles depending on size of blades instead of six in former design. Be aware of that. You need the new stand and time for getting used to this new design.
  8. Hello! So I managed to invest in a used "Bergeon 2795 Nivaflex" Mainspring winder . IMHO the winder barrels are a bit too big for the inner loop of the mainsprings. So my question is, fo anyone who had both: What is the difference between "Bergeon Nivaflex" winders and "Bergeon ETA" winders, the latter being the one especially made for ETA calibers. Thank you! Bogdan
  9. Hello! I am interested in a stainless steel handle screwdriver set. I oscilate between Bergeon 30081 and Horotec MSA 01.201. Self lubricating vs ballbearing Thank you! Bogdan
  10. So I picked up this bad boy on eBay from someone in Spain. It's pretty messed up cosmetically, and missing a heeled bush and a removing punch. Considering all that, I definitely overpaid, but oh well. I don't know how rare these are to find on eBay, so I just decided to grab it. I scraped off all the old flaking paint and found a very similar color paint at Michaels. Not a very professional job and you can see some brush strokes, but all in all it's much better. I know the colors look off in the pictures, but that's a camera white balance issue. In real life the colors are very similar... a completely unattractive greenish gray oatmeal. Why Bergeon used this color I'll never know. Carefully removed the rust from the metal plate with steel wool and very very fine sandpaper. Did the same with the punches and bushes which had a nice coat of oxidation on them, then put them through the ultrasonic like they were watch parts. The original chrome plating had worn away on the top knurled nut, but not to fear! I busted out my little Caswell "Plug N Plate" kit and used "copy chrome" (real chrome plating is dangerous and pretty toxic apparently, but I can't see much of a difference between old chrome plate and Caswell's 'copy chrome' - looks about the same). The biggest unknown was if I could find replacement punches / bushes and yep! I just ordered them from perrinwatchparts.com... they were super expensive. I definitely overpaid for these, but again, oh well. I just wanted the tool to be complete. So ta da! I now have a Platax tool. I'm going to break out one of my many Bulova movements with a broken staff and experiment with using this tool on the poor thing. I don't know the I really needed this tool, per se. I have a nutcracker - type roller remover which works pretty well (I might have broken a few staffs by squeezing a little too much, but those staffs were broken anyway), and I have the little K & D balance remover tools for my staking set. I don't see how the Platax tool would be so so much better than the K & D tool, and I'd imagine any objections or concerns about the K & D tool widening the hole in the balance by using force instead of cutting out the old staff would also apply to the Platax tool, no? It also uses force to drive out the old staff while keeping the balance arms pinned. So maybe I didn't strictly need this, but when it popped up on eBay I couldn't resist, because I want to be able to follow along with what Mark does as closely as possible... and I'm still so new at doing this. So, now I have a Platax tool, a complete 'inverto' K & D staking set (got for under $100, go eBay!), and just picked up a Seitz Jeweling tool (ouch, that was too expensive). I am now wondering what other real watchmaker specific tools you need to have to be able to deal with most, if certainly not all, the issues you find on vintage watch movements ??? I mean, I'm not going to buy an old mechanical watch washer and put it in my one bedroom apartment in manhattan, not going to happen (at least, not if I don't want my husband to divorce me ). So I make do with a tiny, cheap Chinese made ultrasonic machine. And obviously, I'm not going to buy a lathe either, for similar reasons (space constraints, expense, plus wouldn't know how to even begin to use it)... but I'm wondering if I've covered almost everything else? In terms of being able to make watch parts, yeah, that's the holy grail. Living in manhattan comes with many advantages and disadvantages. The disadvantages are obviously space constraints and expense of living. But the advantages are there are lots and lots of resources. In fact, there are a few "Maker Spaces" in the city, which are co-ops you can join and you can use their tools, like CNC mills, CNC lathes, 3D printers, 3D scanners etc etc... you can join these co ops for not much money, and they teach you how to use the tools.... I know that the consensus so far is that 3D printing watch parts won't work, because the machines are not accurate enough on such a small scale. But the CNC lathes? The CNC mills? Could they do micro-machining, in theory? It's something to think about. I think I'll create another thread about that sometime. Maybe I can pick up some good tips. Anyway, hooray for overpriced watch tools! They are so much fun!
  11. Just recently i have been rather busy with a large intake of repairs & servicing, i figured since ive worked so hard ( and yet still have more to do ) id treat myself to another tool. I know i don't really need it but i do like Bergeon tools and this one i picked up is in mint condition with original box. I normally use my Bergeon staking set but this will make a nice addition to my growing collection. Sad that a new tool makes me excited, or are you guys like me ? Next on my list is the Bergeon hairspring collet tightening tool :) Hopefully i should have some nice watch photos to upload over the coming weeks as i have had an Omega repair frenzy including a rather battered Omega RAF 1953 Cal 283 and also a return of a personal favourite 1956/58 Seamaster, and not forgetting a complete restoration of a Tudor Oyster Princess :D
  12. Hi Guys, Found this article on the new premium screwdrivers being offered by Bergeon ... nice piece of kit. Can't find them to buy online yet, so I have no idea of the price; but I expect it will be shocking :P Here's the link: http://www.jewelrytraderesources.com/2014/07/02/bergeon-7965-watchmakers-screwdriver-special-knurled-profile/
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