Jump to content

Making a watch run backwards?


Recommended Posts

Just now, nickelsilver said:
6 minutes ago, HighMans said:
Hello! This is a bit of an odd question, but if I wanted to make a mechanical watch run backwards -- what would technically need to be done? 

Display the time backwards or actually mechanically run backwards?

Actually run backwards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think you'd need to reverse the mainspring and click, flip the escape wheel and pallet fork ... theoretically. That should reverse the train of wheels and the motion works. Any complications, though ... that would be complicated. ;)

Edited by eccentric59
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, eccentric59 said:

I would think you'd need to reverse the mainspring and click, flip the escape wheel and pallet fork ... theoretically. That should reverse the train of wheels and the motion works. Any complications, though ... that would be complicated. ;)

Hm, interesting. I'm tempted to buy a cheap movement off ebay and try that... Or I wonder if I could commission someone here? Hahaha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, starting at the beginning the winding system (winding pinion, clutch) would need to be remade to work backwards. The stem would need a left hand thread so custom stem and crown. Click would need to be reversed in function, so some machining there. Barrel arbor remade with reverse hook, barrel modified (if not automatic) for reverse hook. The rest of the gear train is ok, up to the escape wheel. This would need to be inverted. The pallet fork could possibly be inverted depending on design (the guard pin needs to change sides at least), possibly remade. That should do it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a Zenith/JLC caliber, 845, that "runs backwards" in the sense that the escape wheel and fork are reversed due to an extra gear in the train. Time display is normal though. It's like 5x6 lignes though, tiny. Barrel is about 5mm diameter.

 

Some 8 day movements have reversed escapements too, if you're really adventurous you could rob the escapement and fit it to another watch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

Hmm, starting at the beginning the winding system (winding pinion, clutch) would need to be remade to work backwards. The stem would need a left hand thread so custom stem and crown. Click would need to be reversed in function, so some machining there. Barrel arbor remade with reverse hook, barrel modified (if not automatic) for reverse hook. The rest of the gear train is ok, up to the escape wheel. This would need to be inverted. The pallet fork could possibly be inverted depending on design (the guard pin needs to change sides at least), possibly remade. That should do it.

 

4 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

There's a Zenith/JLC caliber, 845, that "runs backwards" in the sense that the escape wheel and fork are reversed due to an extra gear in the train. Time display is normal though. It's like 5x6 lignes though, tiny. Barrel is about 5mm diameter.

 

Some 8 day movements have reversed escapements too, if you're really adventurous you could rob the escapement and fit it to another watch.

Yikes! That's very involved haha -- do you know of any movements that actually run backwards?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yikes! That's very involved haha -- do you know of any movements that actually run backwards?
Hahaha, yes, some quartz watches that have had their stator bent just a little, just right will run backwards. Mechanical, I don't think that the niche market was ever enough for someone to engineer, tool up, and produce such a thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it was was asked, but my read makes me think there may need to be some clarification behind what he means by "run backwards" as opposed to "display time backwards". Asking in the first place implies a less than thorough understanding of how watches work, and it's not hard to imagine someone who has such an understanding interpreting that as meaning the train is running backwards, while a less technical understanding would interpret the same as meaning the hands are simply turning counter clockwise. Similarly, a technical understanding of displaying the time backwards would mean the hands turning counter clockwise, where the non-technical understanding could mean anything from the dial simply having the numbers mirrored to the same understanding. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

I know it was was asked, but my read makes me think there may need to be some clarification behind what he means by "run backwards" as opposed to "display time backwards". Asking in the first place implies a less than thorough understanding of how watches work, and it's not hard to imagine someone who has such an understanding interpreting that as meaning the train is running backwards, while a less technical understanding would interpret the same as meaning the hands are simply turning counter clockwise. Similarly, a technical understanding of displaying the time backwards would mean the hands turning counter clockwise, where the non-technical understanding could mean anything from the dial simply having the numbers mirrored to the same understanding. 

When I say backwards -- I mean the hands are running counterclockwise instead of clockwise. I'd like to have a watch whose hands run counterclockwise instead of clockwise.

 

46 minutes ago, clockboy said:

WHY ??

Because! It's interesting! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup. Called it. 

So the train doesn't need to run backwards at all, and all that stuff about clicks and springs and forks being reversed is the answer to an entirely different questing. 

What you are asking still requires some competent machining, but is much less complicated depending on the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

Yup. Called it. 

So the train doesn't need to run backwards at all, and all that stuff about clicks and springs and forks being reversed is the answer to an entirely different questing. 

What you are asking still requires some competent machining, but is much less complicated depending on the movement.

Alas, it's probably still a bit out of my budget to commission someone to make/modify a movement to do so. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, HighMans said:

Hello! This is a bit of an odd question, but if I wanted to make a mechanical watch run backwards -- what would technically need to be done? 

That is done with relative ease on Seiko, sorry I don't have the full details on how. Search "Seiko backwards" on YouTube.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you pull the crown on a some Seiko 5s (7S26 I know does this first hand) and put a small amount of torque on the stem as if you are going to set the hands counter clockwise, the second hand will run in reverse. May or may not be what you mean though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mechanically, in theory, and for most mechanical movements, you only need one extra 1:1 gear ratio in the train to run the thing backwards. However in practice, machining the extra gear, pivot holes, jewels etc,  and moving things about to incorporate it would be a fairly major undertaking.

Having said that, there appears to have been a small cottage industry in the former USSR converting 12hr movements to 24hr movements, so perhaps someone, somewhere could to this for you.

EDIT: Things are a lot simpler if you want to hack a quartz mechanical clock movement to go backwards. -> https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Customized-Clock-that-Runs-Backwards/

EDIT2: I would suggest that reversing the coil wires, rather than "reversing the magnet" per the above instructable may be your route to success, since in many cases the 'magnet' in question is possibly a ferrite bar, and only becomes magnetic when the coil is energised.  The permanent magnet in the thing is the rotor, furthermore, some mechanisms rely on a ratchet arrangement to ensure the motor only runs in one direction, so either the rotor, or the ratchet, or more likely both would also need to be modified. Flipping the rotor magnet, and reversing the action of the ratchet may not be as simple as it sounds. The rotor may have a bunch of sloped poles in it like a stepper motor, sloped to ensure it only turns one way.

In theory, the same change(s) would work with *some* quartz watch movements, depending on their construction.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because! It's interesting! 
Hahaha ok I guess there was a miscommunication early on. To get the hands on a mechanical watch to go anticlockwise is fairly simple, but a handful of gears need to be cut and almost certainly custom hands ( unless you're ok that they're off cententered).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If having no seconds hand is a satisfactory compromise then this can be done with a simple module on the motion side. But I suspect this would not be a satisfactory compromise for you as the novel effect would be dampened quite a bit without a seconds hand ticking backwards. In which case yeah all the stuff that nicksilver says for a mechanical movement or what AndyHull mentioned for quartz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As far as I know, the only time an epilame treatment has potential drawbacks is when something is rubbing on the treated part w/o lubrication in between creating abrasive dust. That is, I don't believe in the method of "running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed". So, I think the rule would be; do not epilame treat parts where rubbing is going on without lubrication. Other than that I don't think we have anything to worry about. That said, I'm not an expert, and I'm always happy to learn more. Has any other repairer than Alex suggested or explained the "making-a-groove" method? My impression is that it's just something he constructed in his mind. I have not perceived it as a generally practiced method. Again, I could be wrong!
    • Post some pictures , some good close ones of the parts you've described. 
    • Ive never used epilame H only information i have read and mentally stored about it mostly from Nicklesilver here and elsewhere ( the fork horns thing ), maybe the residue powder that is removed has some grinding effect ? So probably a good idea to limit its application areas to only the absolute necessary. Yes as far as i know epilame rubs off relatively easy, the technique of running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed. This i understand creates the barrier for the lube to sit up to. If i can find a good balance of pros and cons of its use then thats one process i can avoid by using a thixotropic lube on the stones. The epilame i would say allows for a more fluid lubrication to be used that would increase amplitude on low beat movements. The stearic acid powder is extremely cheap, the problem is the fuming process to coat parts, is not selective , the whole part has to treated in this method. If epilame residue can cause wear then thats not good, if I remember the conclusion was not proved entirely just a general assumption between watchmakers. The thread is out there somewhere, the same discussion is also old on a facebook group. Ive never used epilame H only information i have read and mentally stored about it mostly from Nicklesilver here and elsewhere ( the fork horns thing ), maybe the residue powder that is removed has some grinding effect ? So probably a good idea to limit its application areas to only the absolute necessary. Yes as far as i know epilame rubs off relatively easy, the technique of running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed. This i understand creates the barrier for the lube to sit up to. If i can find a good balance of pros and cons of its use then thats one process i can avoid by using a thixotropic lube on the stones. The epilame i would say allows for a more fluid lubrication to be used that would increase amplitude on low beat movements. The stearic acid powder is extremely cheap, the problem is the fuming process to coat parts, is not selective , the whole part has to treated in this method. If epilame residue can cause wear then thats not good, if I remember the conclusion was not proved entirely just a general assumption between watchmakers. The thread is out there somewhere, the same discussion is also old on a facebook group. If its a potential problem for amateurs to use then i would prefer not to take the risk .
    • Following on from my question about identifying screws in the AS2063 movement that basically fell out of the case in bits, I’m pleased to report that I’ve got it all back together, and the movement is running pretty well.    But… There’s something wrong with the keyless works and hand setting. It’s fine in winding and quickset date position - these work - but in hand setting position winding the crown turns the whole gear train.  I don’t really understand how it’s meant to work. It doesn’t have a traditional friction fit cannon pinion.  The second wheel is unusual with a pair of smaller pinions on it, which seem to interact with the barrel and the motion works.    Could this be the problem? I must admit I just cleaned it and popped it in place when reassembling the gear train. I’ve lubricated the pivots but didn’t do anything to the extra bits on the second wheel.    Does this make sense and is anyone able to figure out what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance, as always.    ETA - the parts list calls it the Great Wheel, not second wheel. 
    • You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet staff jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service. Just got confirmation that Moebius 9501 has a lower viscosity (68 cSt at 20° C) than 9504 (305 cSt at 20°). The viscosity of Molykote DX is 285-315 cSt at -25° to +125° C. I was surprised to see that the viscosity of Moebius 9010 (thin oil!) is higher (150 cSt at 20°) than my 9501 grease!
×
×
  • Create New...