Jump to content
  • 0

Emporio Armani ar-1922 repair


Hello Everyone.

I need some help with repairing my Emporio Armani ar-1922.

I've watched some videos on YouTube but none of them resemble the movement of this particular watch.

My first problem is removing the stem/crown. I cannot see anything which looks like it will release the stem and I don't want to poke around inside it any more for fear of creating any damage.

Any help will be much appreciated.




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

This movement looks a lot like a TMI (Seiko) movement. If I'm right then there should be a little notch to press in the setting lever, around the red dot in the image, with the crown in the normal possition. I can't see it 'cause the image is quite dark there, but you can look for it.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Hi  Underneath the balance there should be a logo and a number this is the make and caliber of the movement, In some cases its engraved in the plate this we need for posative Identification.  If you fail to locate the release using acc's method pull out the stem and look for a small lever appearing near the stem,  If this occurs then press down on the lever and remove stem. Without clear photos and or data its all guess work.  Armani dont make watches they just put their name on it they could be Seiko, ETA, Miyota or even chinese movements fitted.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I'm fairly certain this is a Chinese HZ2189G - Otto Freil do them for about $33.00

.. a bunch of ebay sellers also have them



The stem release on some of these Chinese movements is a bit of a movable feast, because despite being based on the Chinese Standard movement, they incorporate a few local tweaks depending on the individual manufacturer.

I don't have one to check, but I suspect you press on one of the two areas I have indicated below with your tweezers while gently pulling the crown. My bet is on the larger of the two areas I have indicated. Use gentle pressure, as you don't want to damage anything if my hunch is wrong.


Edited by AndyHull

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
6 hours ago, aac58 said:

This movement looks a lot like a TMI (Seiko) movement.

Correct. Nitpick: the Seiko brand for OEMs is named SII (Seiko Instruments International) and accordingly the mov'ts are stamped. TMI (Time Modules International) is the name of their Hong Kong subsidiary marketing these to most of the world, in practice the two are the same thing. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Misshollypocket
      I actually have a couple problems I could use some help with. I’ll start with the more serious one I guess. I don’t have any trouble getting the back off my watches or changing the battery, but every time I use my tool to snap the back back on, something happens to the crown pin. It just lets go and comes out. I thought it was a strange occurrence the first time but I tried another one this week and got the same results. I’ve done this same thing on hundreds of other watches of different types and brands but never ran into this problem before. Can someone please help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
      Also, a couple of my watches don’t seem to be able to adjust to my teeny tiny wrist size. In my Monarch, the majority of the links don’t have holes to remove the pins. Is there any other way to remove a couple links. Any advice would be appreciated immensely!!!
    • By JJM
      Is this a rubber 'O' ring in here? 
      Not too sure how to approach replacing this.... 
      Or do I just hit it with my chequebook? 
    • By oldboy
      I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
      I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
      I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
    • By Trevelyan
      Hi, new to repairing, just getting my feet wet, so be prepared for me to use incorrect language, and have things explained like I'm 5 :)
      A couple years ago, I purchased a Seiko Sportsmatic Weekdater, cal. 6619-7050. 
      Soon after purchase, the crown detached from the stem, and I took it in to local watchmaker for repair. It was returned in apparently good shape, but actually the problem still exists. 
      I'd like to learn how to fix the problem, and hopefully bring this watch back to my wrist. 
      It appears that the crown screws onto the stem, but that is as far as I have got. 
      Any assistance would be welcomed. I did find a service manual elsewhere, but I'm a bit lost as it's my first. 

      Seiko Sportmatic 6619A.pdf
    • By Mrfixit
      Hi peoole, any idea what this movement is ? Suffers a broken centre pinion I would like to source. Thanks in advance.

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Lets just hope we never see anything like that again ... 
    • Hi Jay  I was originally struggling, trying to get the train sat on the back plate but Jersey Mo linked a few pics of his rebuild and it clicked for me. By building it up on the front plate, dial side down in the clamp, you can line the train up first, then the escape and the pallet fork rests on the  balance which is just sat in place, it also helps if you loosen the balance screw a bit, it adds stability to the pallet while trying to get the smaller back plate to line up with the pivots.  I then just eyeball the back plate with the keyless works and mainspring barrel and just nudge it around with an old oiler or very gently with the tip of my finger until it sits in place.  Then loosen off the clamp, slide the tweezers in (get a reasonable grip on the whole movement) and flip it over to screw the plates in. Takes a little while to get the knack but after a bit of practice you get used to it.   
    • I bought a load of old Accurist ETA movements on eBay for practice (all reported not working in listing) 4 of them are ETA 2390 with small variations (different balance settings). These arrived yesterday morning. A couple of them run at least for a few minutes, but I decided to tackle the 'worst' one first, I figured it would be easier to see if I had made a difference. (It wouldn't 'start' at all despite being fully wound). It had a fair bit of corrosion and was pretty dirty. Photos show a summary of strip down and cleaning. I manually cleaned in a small jar with horosolve, removing corrosion as best I could with pegwood and fibreglass pen, the end result is far from perfect but a massive improvement on how it started, and joy of joys, on reinstallation of the balance it started running! I got quite emotional! I did a reasonably thorough job, relubricating as I went through reassembly, only 'shortcuts' were that I removed the barrel lid and checked spring for damage, but didn't remove it, and I didn't tackle disassembly of the balance as it seemed too much too soon (really should since this doesn't have a shock setting so balance disassembly is required to clean and lubricate top setting) I gave it a brief go, but after failing to get at the tiny screw on the stud after several attempts, I had fears of ever being able to get it back together if I did manage to get it apart. Anyway, on timegrapher the initial readings on a full wind were amplitude of around 240 and beat error of 1.5ms, rate anywhere between -3 and +20 depending on position, so not brilliant, but I'm happy enough given it is a scrap movement that didn't run at all yesterday. I cannibalised one of the other 2390s from the lot for its hands (this one was missing a minute hand) and reinstalled the dial so I could pop it on my desk under a glass to let it run for a couple of days and check its rundown and timekeeping over a longer period. With the experience gained on this one, hopefully I can get the 'nicer' ones from the lot working a bit better!
    • Ok, I got it to work.  It was together correctly.  HSLs pictures helped.  I didn't realize there was a third position.  It just requires an alarming amount of pull to get it into that position. Thanks all Charlie    
    • Another came in over lunch! This one is even running! A. Schild movement. Gold case with some damage, but the damage suggests it's at least not plated. Dial is in good shape. Not a bad score for €3,50!
  • Create New...