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Big Orient calendar for today. Received yesterday, been fancying one of these for a while.

Nice looking watch. Seconds hand moving but hour and minute hands not is a classic symptom of a loose canon pinion which in itself could be a fairly easy fix depending on what movement is inside. Another thing to check is how much resistance is there when you try to set the hands with the crown in the out position. If there is little to no resistance then that also suggests the canon pinion. The watch looks like a front loader, which means that everything comes out the front. This should mean you have a two piece stem, and there are two potential approaches to dealing with this. The first is to remove the crystal and turn the watch face down, then slowly rotate the crown and at the point where the stem coupling is oriented vertically, with any luck the movement will just drop out of the case. You will need to ensure that it has something soft to land on. If this fails then the other option is simply to pull the crown out hard. This can take a fair bit of force and if it's tight it will feel like you're going to break the watch, but so long as the force is kept along the axis of the stem you will be ok. If you Google removing two piece (or split) stem you will find all sorts of suggetions on how other people do this and what sort of tools (dedicated and improvised) they use. One thing I would say though is that it looks like you have a rather nice gold case there. Protect it with tape either side of the crown to avoid damaging or marking it. Whilst you are Googling have a look for loose canon pinion as well to see how this is adjusted. This is really only half the story though. In all probability if the canon pinion is loose then that would suggest that the movement probably needs properly servicing to bring it back to its best. Not sure what your level of experience is but with respect, if you're new to this game then you might want to consider either putting your heirloom watch to one side until you have some successful experience under your belt, or find someone with the relevant experience to do the service for you, which will sort out the canon pinion issues too. You don't want to damage an heirloom.

I don't think that's true. If you wear a 2824 for a day from fully unwound state motion alone should wind it adequately, certainly enough to accumulate enough power reserve to last overnight. He said he's never had this problem in the 10 years he's had it. Why would he suddenly change his habits right after the service? It looks to me the most plausible variable here is the service itself.

Today it a reliable Seiko SNZG15. Classic military 24 hour dial.

I actually found this watch in a rosary bead satchel in a 30 yard dumpster from a house demo.

Hi When doing serious jobs with the liability of pinging parts it has been advocated doing it in a large plastic bag to limit the pingability of the parts. If the said parts ping they are still encapsulated in the bag and easier to locate. This applies to click springs as well that always look for an escape route.

Inside case. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Lol I seriously doubt it. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Think i have a couple of those. Saw one in a container i bought from cousisnuk . With different shock springs . They can be good to have but as they are sorted you never know what you get . They are called Novodiac 221 if that makes it easier to find.

pinging watch parts AND being unable to find "that part" --- is dificult to learn via book or video. try spending a 4 yr. aprentiship. seriosly - look into it. good luck. vin

Picked this up recently do not know much about it but really liking it maybe@JerseyMo may know something about it as he is the Timex king [emoji16]. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

THAT is stunning. A genuine Voslex Amphibimariner, ultra rare status on the eBay 'rare' scale.

nicely done

It would be nice if you would give us timing results in another position as I assume you timed it dial down? So rotating into a crown position like crown down we can see if the results look the same. Then any time your graphical display doesn't look right then the numbers are not going to be correct either even if they look like valid numbers they probably aren't. Then one of the reasons we question year nifty app is in the past we've seen examples of bad timing results because the apps usually have inappropriate pickup devices to properly get the sounds from the watch to the app giving us goofy results. Then for Rebanking I like the video below visually and audio is presented. https://youtu.be/Rcqrb3_vin8 Then how are you cleaning the watch. When you reassemble watch check the end shake of the wheels. It looks like from your bridge that it's only held in place by two screws it's possible that it's been bent down in the middle I just can't tell from the picture whether it has any support at the end or not.

The train freedom test is a good one and should always be done, but even if free with backlash sometimes things change when everything is actually under power; do have a good look at the teeth of the 3rd wheel and 4th pinion.

Since it's regularly happening every 8 seconds I'm thinking a gearing problem; the 4th wheel has 8 teeth in its pinion, which will equate to 7.5 seconds per tooth "in action"- but it would be odd that all the teeth on that pinion or the 3rd wheel that drives it would be damaged and damaged equally. Though if for example the train bridge was removed with power on the watch the 3rd wheel teeth may have zipped accross another component raising burrs or something. Is the train nice and free with the balance and fork out?

I have never come across such a reading. I don't think the readings are from a timegrapher display. Is it the "Watch Tuner" app of a smart phone if so someone more familiar with this app might be able to decipher the reading.

I just finished my 1959 Timex 100. Lots of clean up work as the movement was in good running condition. A huge thank you to @JerseyMo for his expertise and his parts supply

Today I'm wearing my recently acquired Squadron Race/Rally watch. It's powered by a Swiss, 17 Jewel, pin lever movement made by the E. Gunzinger company. From what I can tell they made identical watches branded for about a dozen different companies. All it needed when it arrived watch a timing adjustment and a Polish of the Crystal.

I think the hairspring looks ok. In the static state the coils appear concentric and I am of the opinion that the rather weighty stud explains it,s apparent lack of flatness.. I am wondering if there isn't a problem with where the hair spring is attached to the stud. if it is not formed correctly there, I think it would move the h/s off center, causing you problem.

Most esteemed friends...I present to you my Mumbai Homage. Old amphibia case with 2209 movement. A glorious fake dial glued in place. However, unlike most fakes you will find the 200 meter rating is legitimate. I am sorry..I just had to.