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I've wondered about regulating a watch myself and came across this. There are other pages about as well. https://tg.ciovil.li/ Mixed success The volume control is a linux utility and shows signal strength after the preamp. It was fed into a laptop headset socket via a splitter lead. This is a stable trace off a new Seiko. A 15 year old chronometer usually doesn't give such a stable trace, it's running 15secs a day slow. It still seems to get the timing error correct despite this and playing around with position may give a more stable trace. Any new watch so far does give a stable trace. General bits bought off amazon UK. The pickup is intended for a violin. Seems to be 2 problems. Bandwidth of the electronics, too high with an amp like this and probably similar, the mechanical aspects of the pickup. Unfortunately commercial microphones for this use are rather expensive. If anyone else tries to install on Linux I found that the automated build wouldn't work but the usual ./config etc did and indicated what lib files I needed to install. John -

Welcome here. Most likely you broken the pallet fork pivot(s), that actually takes some poking rather than looking. While waiting for the tools and few more very cheap watches to practice on I suggest that you read and watch some videos about how a watch work, so you can understand why a broken balance or even a missing one can't make the wheels spin freely.

Older ladies watches are not the easiest to work on. I don't like to work on them and when I do its usually a favor for someones heirloom. The pivots are really fine and the mainsprings are really weak (by design) so if the mainspring gets 'set' and doesn't provide much power the watch wont run well. My action plan is usually remove power from the spring and remove/check/clean mainspring and the barrel. Next remove/check/clean the balance jewels (Assuming Incabloc or similar) and just dunk the whole thing in the cleaning solution. Dry off properly and use a puffer to get any bits off. You might need to remove some of the keyless parts to access the jewels for oiling. put it together. If it works then good. If it doesn't then that's it.. too bad. If there is any trace of moisture don't even bother. Even a smidgen of rust on the pivots is enough to make it run poorly. And most ladies watches of the 50-60s had abysmal water protection. Anilv

I have found that there are hairsprings that don't take well to hanging AT ALL !I have ruined Lorsa hairsprings by just letting them dangle long enough to install the balance cock.I wouldn't let one hang any longer than ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY.

Hi The short answer is NO as the prolonged weight of the wheel will have an adverse effect on the spring, It was not intended to hang for long periods. If the balance is to be left out of the watch with its cock turn the whole thing upside down and rest the balance in the jewel and cover for protection. If removed from the cock place on an old balance complete carrier an again remove out of harms way. A little for thought can save a lot of money not to mention time.

Well.. where to start. https://www.chrono24.com/oris/artelier-skeleton--mod1207.htm .. this may produce some results. Alternatively, there is always the back streets of Delhi https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Oris-Skeleton-Mechanical-CAL-ST-96-Hand-Winding-Mens-Wrist-Watch/163793676010 .. you can have any colour you like, and if you ask very nicely, they may throw in a tour of the Red Fort for an extra hundred rupees. .

Murphy's law is practically infallible. It is almost as reliable as gravity.

Not sure? What the vernier caliper shows? The OP has a Sellita which is Swiss made. Link to reference / casing information http://sellita.ch/scripts/calibres/images/Brochure_technique-SW200-1_39.pdf

Hi Dial feet are usually specific to the movement but having said that there are dials and movements which are interchangable some come with four feet attached to enable you to cut off the ones not needed. When matching dials and movements it is wise to consult the tech sheets of both the movement and the movement of the donor dial to find compatibility. e.g. I have just replaced a miyota 2N50 (obsolete) with a Ronda 1032, the dial from the miyota fits with no modification, so research pays off Alternativly you could use dial dots if there is no calendar work or re-solder the dial feet to suit the movement. There are machines on the market to do that or make your own. I did and it works a treat if there is no alternative.

As for the stem and crown, the manufacturer of the movement must be determined as well as it's caliber (or type).if you could remove the back and take a very clear in focus picture we could help you determine this.A cell phone camera would be fine . Lay your phone on an inverted coffee cup, this will steady the camera and eliminate shake. Strap? most likely leather, or a facsimile thereof.

case I.D. ? movement O.D. ?

Found this on the Internet. Within the Swiss watch industry, the Fero brand name and company goes back to before World War One, when Roger Ferner founded Féro & Cie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in Switzerland. The brand name derives from the name of the founder, taking the first two initials of his two names (FErner Roger). Between the founding of the company and the late 1940s we have a gap in both the recorded history and extant pre watches branded Fero. Apparently, the Fero Watch Company did produce watches under other brand names - Ceneri, Farad, Ferio, Hello, Legation, Legation, Maloja, Pantheon and Tango - and it may be that some of these other names appear on pre-World War Two Fero & Cie watches. I would suggest though that throughout the history of the company, both pre- and post-World war Two, the brand designation in the vast majority of watches was Fero, with or without the name Feldmann depending partly on the date of the watch.

Put the movement in the case and measure the distance between movement and case and the height. That will give you the size you need.

Is it a genuine Omega bracelet that you have? They are always numbered, mine is the same and it says 1315/282. Not sure but I think the first part is the bracelet style and the second part is the end fitting which goes into the watch. You have to look at the part which is against your skin to see it. Also before you spend a load of money have a look the part you press in to release, mine has a screw so that you can get the slider out then the spring. You may be able to repair it quite simply. Can you do some more photos which show the whole of the bracelet and both sides of the buckle.

Foreign object found and removed.

Basically the same discussion as in thread below.

I have used it a lot, also on Linux. It seems to work well with the builtin microphone of my Lenovo T460, and also with a Nokia phone headset mic. I do need to tweak the levels. more so with quiet watches. It will pickup a Timex pin lever from 20 paces. Compiling from source hasn't caused any issues so far. I was toying with trying to compile it on Android, but I haven't had the courage to drop down that particular rabbit hole yet.

Update - resolved. After taking OldHippy's advice and removing the balance and pallet fork gave it a few turns - gears spun up but were reluctant to restart without encouragement. On closer inspection, there was a tiny strand of fabric wrapped around the escape wheel centre shaft. You can only imagine me elation when I grabbed the strand with tweezers and the gears spun into life. One happy chap.

Hi Once again Old Hippy is on the ball as my own diagnosis would be exactly as quoted follow that and all will be well, Small movements are delicate and therefore take your time. The smallest I worked on was a ball watch the size of a marble with a broken staff, replaced with a Balance comp, cleaning and reassembling took a while . Take your time and enjoy.

It sounds to me like dirt. Just a tiny foreign object will cause this. The best way is to clean the movement, that means taking the whole thing apart. You could try this if you like, that would be let the mainspring down. Remove the complete balance and pallets and then add a little power this just might spin out the foreign object. Before you attempt this just make sure all pivots are oiled, you don't want the wheels spinning in a dry hole, it could shear a pivot off.

Well, I have just written to Mr. Sudarson at www.oldswisswatches.com and have politely asked him how he can help me with this problem. I'll keep you updated on the progress. Yes, I don't think you're wrong to assume that the cost of living and wages in India are extremely low. An alternative explanation could possibly be that the repair prices reflect the same kind of quality that the spare parts they sent me had, but I wouldn't really know.

If you look at their contact page they give you the complete address which according to Google puts them definitely in India. I see they also repair watches with very interesting prices. I'm assuming the cost of living in India must be insanely low and hourly wages equally low. https://www.oldswisswatches.com/watch-repair-services/

Thanks for the tip off. I’ve seen them a few times in web searches for parts. However, I wasn’t aware they were an Indian site. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Watchie How dissapointing when these things happen, I was always suspicious of the Indian goods after I purchased a quartz watch pulse and battery tester. Although bought from a British site. It failed and when opened up it was a cobbled job and the wiring was dropping to bits, I contacted the Indian site and guess what NO reply. I scrapped it and made a line release unit from the bits. Thanks for the warning.