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Hi I should say Nucejoe is right there, screw in first then the plate also in the second pic the silver lever I think should be in the groouve in the castle wheel so as when the stem is pulled out the castle wheel slides to engage and disengage.

If it's just on the rim, isn't connected by an oil trail to the cup, and really is microscopic, it's better to leave it. If you want to really get it off, fresh cut pegwood under microscope... but- Really you should reclean. I know it sounds extreme but that's the professional thing to do. Your watch? Do as you please. Customer? Do it right. I'm not saying there's no situation where the excess can be safely tidied up, but I wouldn't advocate it. 50 or more years ago when folks had their watch serviced once a year it was possible to get away with a lot that just doesn't fly anymore. I see watches all the time that have perhaps 10 years since the last service, where maybe one Incabloc still has sufficient oil still and the other is bone dry. How'd that happen? I would guess the dry one got a Rodico cleaning after overshooting on the oil or something similar. If someone is paying 2-600 bucks for professional work that's what they should get.

Just to add my poundsworth and appreciation:- Rogart63 also sent me some watch parts a couple of years back and, like others' on here that have found out, Rogart63's kindness, thoughtfulness and generosity, resurrected (In my case) an old watch from oblivion. He is, without doubt, a Gentleman. (Yes, I did "thank him." )

If the reversers have never been used. I would clean and oil.

Close up is needed. Is the screw sticking out the barrel bridge? Should be flush level with the bidge. The screw may need to have been installed before the bridge is screwed to the mainplate. If you will, show the screw or vivid close up of the pic one.

Yes I should have said except the ST19, aka 1963 chrono. Below a link for the re-make of that much appreciated model. https://aliexpress.com/item/33030035685.html

How does the ultrasonic screw up the spring? I would imagine the average old school machine that swishes the parts around a jillion times would be more of an issue (and it isn't). Is there something particular about Timex stuff?

Hi The origional timex movements were made before the use of ultrasonic cleaners were in general use in the watch repair industry, which then used the International, Benray and Elma machines with the jars. Therefore the advise given in the manuals refers to that time. The common use of ultrasonics in the industry is the norm and as you have found out the vibration screws up the balance spring, so to err on the side of caution I would remove the balance for cleaning in a separate jar using Naptha, Iso alchohol or best of all carburetter cleaner (no residue) a little extra time perhaps but less time than obtaining parts to fix a cock up.

The Watch Repairer's Manual by Henry B. Fried is also a great book to start with, which covers a lot of ground

Watch cleaning and rinsing L & R your machine has three jars first is for cleaner, the other two are for the rinse, and then you have the drying chamber. You can use an ultrasonic cleaning solution it is OK. The part that takes all the dissembled parts are called Baskets. They are not universal you need the correct one for your machine. You should be able to pick one up on ebay. That is why I asked for the machine make and photo. MOEBIUS pocket watch oil. Escapement and pallet stones Moebius 915 or 9415 Any of Donald de Carle books are a must. Mainspring winders are expensive. For someone who is just starting out it is not needed. If you are sticking to pocket, watches there will only be a few sizes you will need. Myself I could never get on using them. You can post photos. I’m sure members would like to see them. I went on this site https://perrinwatchparts.com/

You also have to measure the jewel hole to a precision of at least 0.01mm for the new pivot. It could also be made as an extension fitted on the existing body.

When the second hands moves like that it means battery low, so either has not been replaced or something is wrong. Nothing can be done about it without opening the watch. At the minimum AC reset should be tried. You can buy a normal case opener for less than $10.

I always wondered about this. Say you have the main plate all the train and bridges together and oiled to perfection on both sides save for one last cup. You dip your oiler into that cup , everything is looking good for the home stretch. But as you are lifting the oiler out of the cup your fingers have the tiniest spasm. Oh no. Under 20x magnification you can just about make out the tiniest smidge of oil on the rim of that cup. Can barely even see it honestly . Well? What do you do? Leave it as is? Rodico that sombich? Soak it up with pegwood? What would be the proper/non corner cutting approach? Dismantle the whole thing put it through the cycles and try again? Really?

The watch isn't authentic, but you probably knew that. You might be able to find a replacement Chinese chrono movement.

It's got a seventies funky chunkiness about it.

Todays arrival. Fuji time automatic. It's an Orient 21 jewel movement and Orient in every aspect of its design but branded Fuji, I haven't seen another like this and really like it. The dial is a golden brown sunburst which is gorgeous in sunlight.

A couple of tricks from industry guys, not Brand approved but proven at the bench: Uhu Patafix, the yellow one, is a decent Rodico substitute that doesn't leave visible residue. The white one doesn't work. You can't touch it with your fingers, only cots or the pegwood trick from above. The other one is contact cement. When dealing with black polished steel parts, in a new watch, they have to be impeccably clean. The trick is to dip toothpicks in the contact cement, so just a little bulb is at the tip, and set aside to dry. When casing up, any small marks or bits of stuff that won't blow off can be picked up with the tacky cement (it stays tacky a long time). It won't leave a residue on the steel. The fellow who told me this one used the cheapest contact cement he could find, it was some offbrand stuff. I tried Continental tire glue for bicycles (the one for gluing on racing tires, not patching inner tubes) and it worked fine.

Timex Thursday today. My 1978 Mercury (16052 10478) gets a well deserved airing.