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Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.

The correct way would be to let the power down with the correct size watch key, by moving the click away from the ratchet, that is located under the little plate, held by the tiny screws. Always remember with a cylinder escapement there are no pallets, so power must be released first before any attempt is made removing the balance. So you have the barrel and the bridge all together. Remove the barrel cape and remove the spring. The barrel arbor should unscrew and become two pieces, and then it will come away from the bridge. Many are not easy to take completely apart, if you find this my advice would be to clean it as it is, you do not want to damage the arbor. You have the thin plate off which exposes the ratchet, that is the part that is going to be the most dirty part and underneath. I cannot remember which way the arbor unscrews. Its over 25 years ago for me. Not all arbors have the two holes as in the diagram above. so be careful.

*Panerai Haha noooooooo, most assuredly a Parniserai A beautifully built homage and I might have taken slight liberties making a portmanteau of the respective mfrs names.

Try music wire. You can buy guitar string in different sizes. Perfect to make click springs and such from.

The link below is to the BHI "Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches". Check out section 3.3 on page 6. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwiBoLzv27njAhV5REEAHaXWACwQFjAAegQIABAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nawcc-index.net%2FArticles%2FBTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2wu5iPDMTbXL-VM1mM53rv

I have a monoprice voxel. It is limited in features compared to others but works out-of-the-box and was a good price. I wouldn't bother with a 3d printer for parts holders and the like. There are a few nice designs on thingiverse but really it isn't worth the bother. Injection molded supplies are going to be better quality and you can buy a bunch all at once instead of one waiting to print them out one at a time. Where it may come in handy is when you need something in a specific shape that you cannot buy. But keep in mind you will need to learn at least some basic CAD design. I use Moi3d which is excellent but there are cheaper alternatives. I've used my 3d printer to create different adapters and holders where I needed an exact shape. For example, I was bending a strip of brass and was able to create plastic bending clamps I compressed with some pliers. I was able to figure out the exact inside and outside curve I needed and print to match. The nice thing about the 3d printed parts is you can use glue to attach whatever you need to it without worrying about having to damage the print when removing it as you can always print a new one.

Unfortunately I didn't have a C07.121 at home right now but I might have become a bit confused, but doesn´t the C07 have the day at the top like an ETA 2834-2? Just to show the differences beween the movements I post a couple of pictures, as you can see they all are based on the 2824-2 but the 2834-2 has a plastic ring around it to make it an 0.5 ligne wider. The 07 is an 2824-2 with some synthetic light weight parts and a low beat (21600) balance swing, day ring used mainly by Tissot, Certina and Hamilton. The changes in beatrate and escapement was made to increase time in the power reserve.

My gut feeling would be to oil any capped jewel with thin oil too. But then again we are talking about a 3rd wheel pivot and most 3rd wheel pivots are oiled with thick oil. See my dilemma here?

There are millions of these movements about. The funny thing is they are not or very rarely have interchangeable parts.

Rolex oiling charts say: Thin oil for balance and escape wheel pivots No oiling for pallet pivots Thick oil for the other wheels pivots

In my mind the type of lubrication you use is depending of which kind of force the part is exposed for and its construction. Thats why I guess you mostly can see thick lubrications in the drive train area where the force is relativly high and the pivots are thicker, while in the escapement the lubrication gets thinner because the force are relativly low and the pivots are mostly thinner. You could ofcourse use a thin lubrication everywere but it would just be harder to apply and you probably have to service the movement more often since a thinner lubrication is more volatile. I don't think the use of end caps in the drivetrain makes any difference in the choise of lubrication.

Today I was an early bird and took some minutes to disassemble a bridge like yours. I let the pictures speak for them self since there is not that much to comment. One can like me be lazy and use a wrench as an vice, I also uce a circle to unscrew the nut part of the barrel arbour. Hope this helps you...

Big n chunky on the wrist today. 'Parniserai' homage with seagull movement.

It may have a two-piece barrel-arbor. That means that in order to remove it from the bridge, you must unscrew the sides of the arbor. That's what I had to do do on a Vacheron that I worked on recently. When oldhippy wakes up, he may tell you that the arbor has left-handed threads, so be careful, and don't proceed until you know. You can snap the square off the arbor. Sorry to say, but I have done it. If you indeed got as lucky as you think you did when you pulled the balance, it was probably because there was very little power left in the mainspring. All's well if it ends well. Good luck with the watch.

I have two Helm watches and they are very well made. I passed on the Komodo due to it's size. (40MM is small for me.) I did ask Mark Helm if he had plans for a larger version. He has always been responsive to emails. RMD

I Think if you have to do as Oldhippy suggest taking it off again and also check how round it still is. In your picture one can see you have tension in the movement ring and that can appear when one dont make sure the ring is lying flat all way round the movement when you putting it in. The other reason this can happen is when one tighten one screw first all the way and by that one will pull one side of the movement uppwards whilst pushing the other side down. I have marked in the picture where you can see how you have got a gap in one spot and super tight opposite it. It is also scewed with one side of the movement up and the other marked with the arrow down. When the movement ring it is at the same deapth all way around you should be able to get the threads on both screws to bite. After they do so you carfuly tighten them alternately so you dont get any tension in the movement ring. If the movement ring isn't completely uniform you might have to gently push it in with a peg wood. Just push all the way around the ring and it should pop into place again.

Aeromaster today. Bought and restored ages ago. Bought for less than the cost of a large pizza New outer bezel from a dead donor NOS crystal Cheap movement but I like the styling. https://i.imgur.com/Jxb2f27.jpg

Being plastic it shouldn't be overly tight. You can try using a flat blade driver with a sharp edge to help provide the grip on the edges as you loosen. If it won't budge at all then carefully and slowly grind the had with a dremel. This will leave a stub protruding once the back is removed which should come out easily. In assuming you've loosened the other screws and confirmed it is screwed down and they're not moulded in cosmetic heads? This often happens with fashion watches and they're a pop off case back.

The Babe Ruth Benrus was part of a Benrus advertising campaign - "Babe Ruth wears a Shockproof Benrus Watch."

Today it's my USSR era Sekonda. Still not perfected a vintage lume mix so hands are still waiting to be done. Old pic

I'm very pleased to share that I finally acquired 2 watches that have been in my radar for a while . The first I received today . It is a vintage Hamilton Flight II hand wind . One of Hamilton's and Designer , Richard Arbib's many beautiful asymmetrical designs in both Electric and Mechanical movements . The watch: About 2 weeks ago I was able to get a very nice Breitling Chronomat automatic with a 7750 Valjoux movement . I truly have enjoyed wearing this watch everyday since I've had it ,...although I did remove it to give the Hamilton a spin around the block .