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Has anyone ever used Longines free service to get an extract from their archives on their watch? https://www.longines.com/certificate-of-authenticity See the above link, if you just want the extract they will post it to you for free, obviously if you want a certificate of Authenticity you need to send them your watch and pay for that, but the extract is free. I'm going to ask for the extract on my 30LS Longines.

As VWatchie wrote since it's from the "value" line that is India,or China. Specifically that is a Chainda 5500-A, which can be bough for $100 on AliX, Vs. £132 on Cousins. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014787414.html As mentioned, you need to search on AliX, not Google. 20pcs (delrin? nylon?) dies $5 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-Watch-Back-Press-Fitting-Dies-Watch-Repair-Kit-Round-and-Rectangular-LL/32795242094.html 25pcs alumium dies $28 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32345297702.html There a few more variants. M6 is M6, they all fit.

bbb8-bloc_final.scad please check the dimensions again! DO A TEST PRINT FIRST (to see if the watch fits)! install the font in the code

I have found this on ebay. The same tool you are thinking of buying for a hell of lot less money. What I do not like is other stuff at his shop looks like rubbish https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crystal-Glass-Case-Back-Fitting-Tool-Wheel-Type-35-Dies-Watch-Repairs-Pressing/192911532678?hash=item2cea6c6286:g:EfoAAOSw-QBcVz4V

This is a good buy. Strong and sturdy, spring action. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/press-die-set-swiss-style

I must add, one exception is Cousins UK. They know the in and out of all they sell. Today I asked about three variations of a balance complete and they updated the website in an hour.

He means that rotates relative to the spindle. If you pay attention in your picture you see the upper die support being a bit tilted one side, that is because it's free to move, as it couldn't be otherwise. It's pointless to push sellers for much technical data, they are sellers not watchmakers. Once again I suggest that you go for the other type, the price in the 1st link you included is robbery and the design is, after all, outdated.

Back to the job in hand. I managed to find the cork I thought I may have had, lurking in a box under the stairs. It was the most part of an A4 sized sheet, so more than enough for my purposes - to sit the jars on whilst they are in the machine. Looking at the metal bases, I really can't be convinced if there ever was any cork or any other material for that matter there. But for me anyway, the idea of the glass jars sitting directly on the metal base just seems wrong and I would prefer some cork there as a cushion. It's about as tidy as it needs to be, given the shape of the metal webbing. I suppose I could have cut-out squares of cork, but then it would leave potential weak, unsupported areas of cork, which would likely need some form of strengthening. Anyway - this application suits me and helps the jars sit a bit more stable in their locations. Whilst I am in the vicinity, so to speak, I have also added an earth lead which will bond the chassis to the incoming mains lead, once fitted. This is visible in these photos.

Thanks @WatchMaker that makes perfect sense, as someone new to this it is just so confusing with the range of different crystals available. I have ordered the Crystal ( 30.7mm ) you suggested along with a few other bits I need.

JDM, No, does no more pay. VWatchie, no personal experience, that type is a newer one. But it has the Indian look. Frank

With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements. The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit. Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.

Somewhere on this forum, a kind colleague of ours, posted pictures with the tool disassembled. I can't find the thread but I saved the pictures. Here is on of them:

If I'm not wrong it has no lever neither screw, which means some tight crystal, caseback or rotating bezel will not go in place with the limited direct force. The dies are few and have a threaded hole, so one would have to make new ones to be use correct size or hollow ones. As common with Chinese products it can be found cheaper elsewhere https://www.aliexpress.com/item/E25-Watch-Case-Press-Tool-High-Quality-Desk-Set-Watch-Pressing-Machine-for-watchmakers/32850805250.html

The dial looks good for it's age. From my experience there is really much that can be done to improve the look of a vintage dial. Often what appears to be dirt is instead oxidation and cannot be removed without changing the appearance of the dial. I would stick to using Rodico and Q-Tips dipped in distilled water. If you do anything, be very careful and work very slow. Keep in mind the printing on the dial is often placed on top of the lacquer and it's the first to go when "cleaning" is attempted.

All you need are the matching slippers.

Not a complete watch ... Just a dial but a really nice old 5500 one Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

Well, I spent quite a bit of time with it today (about six hours), extracting the rusted shaft of the screw for the Sliding Gear Spring, polishing the other screws, and repairing the Center Wheel and I finally have the base movement back together. The Mainspring was in fine shape, so I reused it. Other than the Center Wheel, the pivots in the going train were untouched by rust. Again, this was a relief because sourcing the various bits of the going train just may be impossible One of the interesting features of an Excelsior Park movement is the Fourth Wheel/Chronograph Driving Wheel arrangement. In most chronographs the Fourth Wheel has an extended pivot that the Chronograph Driving Wheel is mounted on- it's usually a friction fitted. Excelsior Park instead designed a double-decker arrangement where the Fourth Wheel and Chronograph Driving Wheel are both permanently mounted on the same pinion. A separate cock secures the wheel(s) to the Main Plate. Another thing I really like about this movement is how the milled springs and small bridges have little "clover leafs" that extend outward from the edges. These leaves fit into cutouts in the plate and that ensures the bridges and springs are always oriented just right before you screw them down. You can see the leaves extending from the edge of the Pallet Bridge in the picture below. Little things like this also catch my eye- the cap jewels have a small circular trough cut into the bottom of the jewel. I just can't wrap my mind around how that's accomplished with such precision. It took quite a bit of time to get the base movement back together. The plates went through the cleaner multiple times and much elbow grease was needed to remove the rust damage. The screw for the Sliding Gear Spring took about two hours to extract this morning. A lot of other screws were cleaned up with the help of the lathe too. In the end, I don't think I'll have to replace many. The Balance Assembly got quite a lot of attention too. The hairspring was fouled with bits of rust and other muck that must have been carried in by the water that caused all the rust damage. It was cleaned with lighter fluid and a steady hand then went through the cleaner with the top and bottom plate this morning. I do like the design of the entire escapement in this movement also. Excelsior Park movements are some of the earliest Swiss movements I've seen to use an adjustable stud for the hairspring- this makes beat error adjustment quite simple. Here we have a screwless Balance Wheel too and one with an Breguet hairspring. All good stuff. In order to test the movement I needed to assemble the keyless works as well. There's a lot of scarring here but I was able to reuse everything but the Stem. So I finished the day by giving the movement a good wind and popping it on the Timegrapher- Mind you that's the reading at full wind in one position but it's a good starting point.

Can't wait to add this beauty to my DS collection that will arrive from Germany in next week i hope!

Eye Spy'd with my one enormous eye, on the junk pike that is ebay... another potential member of the somewhat random 404 club. In addition to a full clean and service, It will need a crown and stem at the very least, and most likely the careful removal of some low level radioactive waste (though I will probably leave the stuff still attached to the dial alone, at least for the time being). It is unquestionably more refined than the "sausage watch" and Mr Mao, and for a whopping £3.55 + P&P probably worth it for the scrap value of the case alone. But fear not, I have no intention of melting it down. Now can any of the experts tell me what the caliber is, to save me a heap of head scratching and googling?

Eyes.. plural? Surely you just need one large eye for a loupe like that.

My collection " is" mainly " rare and sought after pieces" to name some, spaceman audessiuse, Oris calender pointers... based on information I gathered from internet and out of what is inexpensively available locally. Facts are such collection is mainly profitable to me . I now think I can do better, profitable to me and useful to others as well. Supplying a part helps fix someone's watch, even better if offered at moderate prices. So I thought I can get a survey of what is needed from members of this forum, furthermore, to offer special discount to members. Constant effort is to be put in to keep a good work " good " for good. Watch parts are trash until needed for some repair. I can use all the advice I get. Regards